How would you describe it? Intimate, ornate, easy-going, charming, and homely.
Who’d love it? V Resorts (Kullu) is a perfect base for those wanting to explore the Himachal Pradesh area at large, from the popular town of Manali to the lesser-known thermal springs. Ben and I relied on this peaceful abode as a comforting start and end point during our road trip along the Manali-to-Leh Highway. It placed us far enough away from the main tourist zones to feel relaxed, but close enough to explore them at our leisure. Families, couples, seniors, and singles seeking a little quiet time would feel at home at V Resorts (Kullu).
How were the rooms? The rooms were something special – like luxury log cabins with dreamy mountain views, high ceilings, towering glass windows and sun-kissed balconies. The bed was so soft, I sunk into it like a kid diving into a warm pudding. While there wasn’t any air-con, the fans kept us comfortably cool. Plus, the climate in this part of the world is relatively temperate for most months of the year. Our room didn’t have a TV, but there was a communal one in the cosy common area. This was a good thing, as it encouraged Ben and me to leave our room and be social rather than hotel hermits.
How was the service? The small team of staff were just wonderful – professional, understated and genuinely caring. They seemed inconspicuous, yet always ready to help with our requests. We felt like we had the place to ourselves, but we also felt completely taken care of. The service was personalised to suit our needs and preferences, from meals to parking. Whilst travelling to and from the hotel, the staff phoned us to ensure we were safe and on the right track. They were so lovely, we wish we had time to get to know them better and do something nice for them in return.
How was the food? It was tastier and more comforting than a home-cooked Indian meal. Dinner was always hearty, flavour-packed and made with love. The curries were so delicious we couldn’t let the leftovers go to waste. The staff kindly packed them into lunch boxes for us – curries taste better the next day anyway! Breakfasts were perfect for a Western palate (I’m sure Indian options can be prepared, too). The chef was more than happy to tailor menu items to suit our dietary requirements and preferences. We couldn’t have asked for more.
What was the vibe like? V Resorts (Kullu) feels like a home away from home. The ornately decorated common area is stocked with tea facilities, board games, a TV and dining space, giving it a welcoming, social vibe. The staff enhance this sense of intimacy with their inquisitiveness, kindness and friendly chats.
What were the highlights? There are three things, which have stayed with me since staying at V Resorts (Kullu). Beyond the impeccable service and mouth-watering meals, the unique interior design really captured my curiosity and imagination. No country can mash crazy prints and patterns as masterfully as India. At V Resorts (Kullu), this creative skill is on full display. I loved the electric blue furniture and royal rugs – they packed a punch against the timber framework. This accommodation offered all of the quirky charm we wanted in a boutique hotel…and then some.
What’s different about the place? V Resorts (Kullu) is brand spanking new, so everything felt fresh and ready to impress. Despite being a spring chicken, the hotel was relaxing and the service was seamless. It felt as though the place had been hitting its stride for months.
How would you rate the overall experience? 8 out of 10 packed lunches
How would you describe it? Seamless, practical, cultured, visionary, and well-resourced.
Who’d love it? International business folk, from singles to conferences groups, would feel right at home. The Grand Hyatt is a hop, skip and jump away from the airport and merely 5 minutes away from Mumbai’s business hub (the Bandra Kurla Complex). Home to several meeting rooms, state-of-the-art technology, a mammoth ballroom, high-quality catering and an events team, this hotel would be a perfect place to host a conference.
How were the rooms? Elegant and understated. The Grand Hyatt knows how to make its rooms luxurious without being ostentatious, so guests feel completely at home. While the design is more functional than other Grand Hyatt’s, catering for a practical business market, they are still cosy and inviting.
How was the service?
Practically unparalleled in its professionalism. But, that’s not to say the staff weren’t warm and friendly. In fact, they were absolutely delightful, having a polite yet childlike enthusiasm towards guests. They seemed genuinely interested in my travels, eagerly asking questions but wary of being too intrusive. The staff (especially the chefs) also loved explaining their role at the Hyatt; it was wonderful to see their passion.
While service at the Grand Hyatt seemed “no fuss” on the surface, the staff were undoubtedly working hard in the background to keep guests happy. Their attention to detail was highly discrete, so Ben and I barely noticed when tasks had been performed to make our stay as comfortable as possible. While taking a tour of the hotel complex, we passed a store which happened to stock Vegemite. I let out a squeal of delight at the time, in true “Aussie abroad” fashion. During check out, Ben and I were treated to a beautiful gift box containing the best road trip goodies imaginable, including: muffins, baguettes, gourmet chocolates, doughnuts and…a jar of Vegemite. We’ll never forget the kind, personalised gesture.
What were the highlights?
It’s hard to go past the food. Standing at the Grand Hyatt’s restaurant nexus, Ben and I couldn’t decide which fine dining option to indulge in…so we made our way through them all, one bite at a time. We started our food tour at the hotel’s international restaurant, Fifty Five East. Our eyes were met by the ultimate world-class buffet, with interactive breakout kitchens serving Thai, Japanese, Lebanese, Western and Indian fare. The dessert bar was deliciously cruel, serving more tantalising sweets than my body could handle (but I wanted to try them all). All I can say, is thank goodness for the Grand Hyatt gym. Ben and I decided right then that we’d spend our time between eating and exercising!
Our next meal was at the highly acclaimed China House Restaurant & Lounge. Renowned for its impossibly tender peking duck, fresh dumplings and extensive tea menu, Ben and I submitted our bodies to yet another gastronomic adventure. In between tastings, we wandered around the restaurant’s dimly lit alcoves, jam-packed pantries and open kitchens. The whole experience transported us to the sensual and alluring backstreets of exotic China.
By the next day, Ben and I were craving simple flavours, so an Italian affair at Celini was in order. We were told the famous, thin-crust pizzas were a must and they certainly didn’t disappoint. It was clear the Grand Hyatt had managed to attract the talents of incredible chefs from around the world. I’d challenge Naples to serve up better pizza than Celini!
Finally, we couldn’t stay at the Grand Hyatt without a meal at its much-loved Indian restaurant, Soma. According to the rumours, Bollywood stars travelled from far and wide to feast on Soma’s Dal Makhani. I must admit, when I placed the first spoonful in my mouth, I lost myself for a moment. The rich, buttery flavour and smooth, velvety texture were completely captivating. Then came the tandoor-grilled lamb. In Ben’s words, it was like the meat had never really been joined to a bone. It was melt-in-your-mouth magic. If you’re a gastronome like me, put the Grand Hyatt (Mumbai) on your bucket list. It’s worth staying here just for the food.
What’s different about the place?
While exploring the vast halls and spaces within the Grand Hyatt, I was delighted to see its walls were lathered in local art. From contemporary pieces to traditional designs, the unique celebration of Indian culture and creativity gave the hotel soul.
Beyond its grand art gallery, the Hyatt also offers more facilities than a mini-city. Beyond the usual suspects (gym, spa, business centre etc.), the hotel hosts serviced apartments and boasts its own international shopping plaza, complete with high-end fashion boutiques, jewellery stores, cafes and beyond. Set on 12 acres of perfectly manicured land and offering a perfect mix of leisure and relaxation, the Grand Hyatt isn’t just a hotel, it’s a lifestyle destination.
How would you rate the overall experience? 9 out of 10 peking ducks.
Resort Details:
Off Western Express Highway, Santacruz (East), Mumbai, India
Tel:+91 22 6676 1234 www.mumbai.grand.hyatt.com
Mumbai (a.k.a. Bombay) is a city of wild and wonderful extremes. Sustaining over 20 million residents, India’s most populous city is home to dreamers, hard-labourers, actors, gangsters, artists, servants, fisher folk, millionaires and everything in between. It’s the glittering epicentre of Bollywood, the world’s most prolific film industry, and it proudly possesses some of the world’s most expensive real estate. Yet, Mumbai is also renowned for its mammoth slums and ultra-gritty markets. So it seems, this eclectic city captures all of the beauty and ugliness of the human condition. But, that’s exactly what makes it so captivating. Here are some of the things I love most about Mumbai – the good, the great and the ugly.
BOLLYWOOD
Churning out over 900 films a year, Bollywood is the global goliath of the movie world. When visiting Mumbai, the heart of India’s film industry, it’s sacrilegious not to see a Bollywood flick. I convinced Ben to see ABCD2, which was like Step Up on steroids. Despite having zero understanding of Hindi, I figured dance was an international language we’d be able to make sense of. Indeed, I was instantly entranced by Bollywood’s winning escapist formula, as all-singing, all-dancing lovers fought to conquer the forces keeping them apart.
During our night at the movies, Ben and I discovered Indian cinemas played the national anthem before each screening – how patriotic! We also heard Bollywood studios often scouted Western extras to star in their films and add a whiff of international flair. Unfortunately, we missed out on our ten minutes of fame. Bollywood stars, on the other hand, seemed to have God-like status throughout Mumbai and all of India.
FASHION
Just like in Hollywood, where an intense celebrity culture is coupled with fashion fanatics, Mumbai is both the movie star and fashion capital of India. From the mountains of sparkly accessories at the Bandra street markets to the couture boutiques which line the streets of Juhu, it’s a bit overwhelming. But, once you get the hang of haggling and sorting the chintz from the special stuff, shopping becomes an entertaining tourist experience. I chose to escape the crowds and play dress ups at Bandhej in the Grand Hyatt Plaza. While in India, I couldn’t miss out on the chance to wear some traditional clothing, which I’d never be able to get on without the help of a local! Before long, I was happily drowning in a rainbow of colour. Indian women sure know how to stand out. No matter which region or caste they’re from, they all seem to put serious effort into their style, from the ornate jewellery and striking make-up they wear, to the perfectly layered clothing and coordinated shoes adorning their bodies. Indian women are the ultimate “glamourzons” – especially in Mumbai.
MARKETS
Before reaching Mumbai, I had visions of people being packed into the place like sardines. Ben and I feared it would be a nightmare to navigate, especially considering we were driving our own car. While India’s biggest city certainly has an element of overcrowded madness, there’s a fast-paced rhythm to the place which seems to keep things moving like a perfectly choreographed dance. The locals know the steps and it doesn’t take long for tourists to get the swing of things.
Nowhere is Mumbai’s organised chaos more apparent than at the markets. While Chow Bazaar (a.k.a. the Thieves Market) is a popular shopping haunt, especially amongst those seeking antiques and furniture, my top pick is the Crawford Market. It’s the ultimate tourist theatre, with locals and vendors haggling their way towards high-action melodrama while stray animals form sneaky side plots. It’s fascinating viewing, but you should also become part of the production!
If peace and quiet are what you seek, you’ll need to wander past the pet arena through to the meat market. Be warned – it’s strictly for the brave (hence the less hectic vibe). The lack of hygiene is wildly shocking and grabs you by the guts – I’d never seen anything like it before. But, while the viewing is tough, the workers are super friendly. Be sure to strike up a conversation with them, as their life stories are fascinating. Their kids play cricket around the corner. It’s worth wading through the mountains of rotting garbage to join them for a match – Mumbai-style.
SLUMS
Shantytowns and slums are very much a part of Mumbai city life, with over 60% of the population calling them home. To really get under the skin of India’s biggest city, it’s important to witness this part of the local culture. Ben and I ventured to Dharavi, Asia’s biggest and Mumbia’s most renowned slum. Thanks to Hollywood’s interpretation of street life in Slumdog Millionaire, Dharavi turned out to be a lot friendlier and grittier than I expected. While I’m sure there are some dodgy dealings in this part of town, I felt completely safe exploring the dusty alleyways and busy thoroughfares. The locals turned into shy gigglepots whenever we asked to take their photos – they were delightful and never asked for money in return. Their houses were cleverly built from a resourceful mix of materials, including corrugated iron, garbage and concrete. Surprisingly, most were kitted out with kitchens and electricity.
On the flip side, where Hollywood tends to make even the foulest conditions look picturesque, Dharavi was pretty darn dingy. It was like a city, within a city – a far cry from the lavish lanes of Mumbai’s affluent peninsular situated merely a hop, skip and jump away. The sewer-lined streets were shrouded in gut-wrenching aromas, from rotting garbage to human excrement. The waterways were a bubbling grey-green colour I’d never seen before. It was a complete assault to the senses. Yet, many families (including young adults with white collar jobs), had happily lived here for generations. While Dharavi seems shambled at first glance, there’s obviously a strong sense of community and habitual way of life which offers a compelling living environment.
PLUSH PROPERTIES
In a country where 30% of people live below the poverty line, Mumbai is a beacon of unabashed opulence. Amongst the shantytowns and slums are pockets of elegance filled with fantastical architecture. The affluent southern tip of Mumbai’s peninsular is home to the world’s most expensive private property – Antilia. Valued at $1 billion USD, it’s maintained by a staff of 600 and enjoyed by not a single soul. Owned by India’s wealthiest man, business magnate Mukesh Ambani, it’s rumoured his wife didn’t agree with the property’s feng shui and refused to reside within its stately walls. Built on a block which was formerly occupied by an orphanage, many of the locals see Antilia as a big middle finger. Whether or not the gossip is true or justified, this state-of-the-art skyscaper is still worth a peak.
The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is another example of Mumbai’s lavish side, presenting a fairytale blend of Islamic and Renaissance architectural styles. This sumptuous hotel is a popular respite destination amongst the international elite. If you can’t afford to live like royalty for a night or experience one of the Taj’s fine-dining restaurants, it’s still worth taking a look inside and pretending like you own the place. Alternatively, you can enjoy a gentle stroll (or horse-drawn carriage ride) around its perfect perimeter. The public square, which sits next to the hotel and hugs the Mumbai Harbour, has become a favourite gathering spot amongst locals and tourists alike. It’s also home to the Gateway of India, a bold basalt arch of colonial triumph, which further enhances the grandeur of this palatial precinct.
WORLD-CLASS DINING
Mumbai offers a gastronomical adventure like nowhere else in India. Due to the well-moneyed and cosmopolitan crowds which flock to this high-energy city, the cuisine on offer is truly mind-blowing. My two favourite food experiences were at Social Offline and the Grand Hyatt Hotel. The latter took my stomach on a glorious round-the-world trip from Italy, China, Japan and Thailand all the way back to India. It’s worth sleeping over for a few nights, just so you can sample your way through the Grand Hyatt’s many restaurants and some of the best food Mumbai has to offer. From the thin-crust pizzas which dissipate in your mouth to the impossibly tender peking duck which delights your soul, it’s little wonder this hotel attracts movers and shakers from Mumbai and beyond.
Ben and I stumbled across Social Offline while we were exploring the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Too cheap to splurge on a five-star lunch, we looked to one of the surrounding restaurants for a feed. What we discovered at the highly affordable Social Offline knocked our socks off. The fusion of British and Indian recipes delivered an unexpected thrill to our tastebuds, from the lightly spiced and perfectly battered fish ‘n’ chips Ben devoured to the melt-in-the-mouth pastry which cuddled my curried vegetable pie. If only we’d had room to try the Chocolate Blood Bath with brownie, truffle and fudge. So it seemed, when world-class international and Indian chefs came together, the menus were magic.
CONCLUSION
If you thought Mumbai was merely a grimy, over-crowded city, think again. Its many facets will surprise and delight you, whisking you between worlds of divine grandeur and hypnotically raw street life. Mumbai, with all of it’s complex and contrasting layers, offers a well-rounded glimpse into Indian culture, aspirations, challenges and ideals. It’s unquestionably a must-visit if you plan to explore India.
How would you describe it? Grandiose, ambitious, exquisite, welcoming, and family-friendly.
Who’d love it? Surprisingly, families! The Grand Hyatt is well equipped to cater for little ones. This state-of-the-art hotel would also make a great venue for weddings and business conferences.
How were the rooms?
Let’s just start by saying it was bigger than our entire townhouse back home in Oz. From the moment we entered the atrium, we couldn’t contain our dumfounded delight. We were like school children giggling at an inside joke – the lavishness of our room was brilliantly absurd. How did we get so lucky?! The entrance, decorated with fresh flowers, opened up to a vast, open-plan living room and dining area. A coffee machine, generous bowl of ripe fruit and jars of naughty treats were ready to welcome us. Before Ben and I tucked in, we needed to explore the all-important bedroom.
It was the stuff of dreams. The king-sized bed was so deliciously soft it felt as though I was being hugged to sleep. Behind the ultra-comfy bedroom was a bathroom fit for a queen. It contained so many specialised areas, we kept getting lost! And, just to add a little extra ostentatiousness, there was a remote controlled wall offering a choice between privacy and exhibitionism. As I started to open the bedroom curtains, I turned to Ben and said, “How can this possibly get any better?”. My question was answered before it ended. So it seemed, our room was bordered by a runway-length balcony with a state-of-the-art Jacuzzi and ocean views. It was time to jump up and down with joy.
How was the service?
I love staying at a hotel when I can tell the entire staff community shares a genuine and united passion for its mission and values. At the Grand Hyatt, it’s obvious everyone from the GM to the gardener is driven by the desire to create a flawless yet homely space for guests. There was a refreshing sincerity to their smiles and support.
I also valued the personalised service delivered at the Grand Hyatt. The staff were practically psychic and eager to go the extra mile. After a long day of filming, photographing and touring the hotel grounds, Ben and I came back to our room to discover it’d been showered in rose petals. A little romance and relaxation were exactly what we needed. It’s easy to get caught up in the work side of things when you’re a travel writer and forget to stop and enjoy the moment. Not at the Grand Hyatt!
How was the food?
The Grand Hyatt is a place where one can indulge in dessert during breakfast, lunch and dinner. The lavish breakfast spread was temptation of the ultimate kind, offering everything from freshly made waffles with several flavours of ice-cream to the finest pastries and masterfully decorated cakes. Of course, the usual local and international suspects were on offer, too, plus a deli section that was to die for (cream cheese with smoked salmon on a fresh bagel anyone?). Lunch is next level, and will leave you feeling like Marie Antoinette. Dinner presents a world of options but Ben and I stuck with the hotel’s Indian restaurant, Chulha. We were treated to a special cooking class with the chefs before we tucked into the tastiest Indian meal either of us had ever cooked. At the Grand Hyatt, every morsel is obviously made with love, expertise, playfulness and careful consideration.
What were the highlights?
From the moment we drove our Landy through the stately entrance gates, Ben and I were in awe of the Grand Hyatt’s unique aesthetic. The architecture was a beautiful mix of Hindu, Portuguese and contemporary influences. Every structure was paradoxically grand and down-to-earth. The use of natural fibres, tones, artworks and décor was very clever, making us feel both pampered and right at home.
The spa complex was pretty memorable, too. As we wandered past the ultramodern massage rooms, gymnasium, indoor pool, relaxation room, salons, steam rooms and private female/male spas – all blindingly white – we felt like we were in a sci-fi flick. Ben and I were “the lucky ones” who got to live on the utopia-themed spaceship. It was blissfully eerie.
What’s different about the place?
At first glance, the Grand Hyatt stood out due to its sheer size. Spread across 28 acres of prime beachfront land, the hotel was often explored by buggy rather than by foot. The common areas were so extensive, there were staff dedicated to offering directions (we took advantage of this on many occasions!). The gardens, despite their vastness, were perfectly manicured. There was also a beautifully weathered 16th Century chapel on the grounds, which begged to be photographed.
Another interesting point-of-difference was the Grand Hyatt’s menu of guest activities, which seemed to be season specific. During the monsoon, they were designed to keep holiday-goers entertained indoors. Everything from Indian cooking classes and fondue evenings to beer ‘n’ hop tastings and detox days were on offer. I could’ve happily lived at the Grand Hyatt for many months! During my stay, I well-and-truly became a Grand Hyatt girl – it’s an incredible brand which consistently delivers my favourite hotel experiences around the world.
How would you rate the overall experience? 9.7 out of 10 grand entrances.
When you imagine a holiday in Goa, sun-kissed beaches, wild parties, and hordes of hippies probably come to mind. What if I was to tell you this tourist hot spot becomes particularly blissful throughout the Monsoon Season?
Few international tourists realise Goa is a playground 365 days of the year. The idea of visiting during its wettest months might seem strange; but, for travellers who dream of total relaxation, a beautiful backdrop and mellow holiday vibe, it’s the perfect time to chill out in this aspirational destination. Here are some of my favourite ways to unwind and soak up the magic of Goa during the Monsoon.
#1 Explore the Tropical Spice Plantation
A trip to India isn’t complete without a visit to a spice plantation. When Goa takes on a slower pace, it’s the perfect time to head towards the lush hills and discover spices in their most natural state. Ben and I visited the Tropical Spice Plantation in Keri (Ponda). Upon arrival, we were welcomed with traditional offerings of flower garlands, kumkum (red, round marks impressed on our foreheads) and herbal teas. Our guided tour immersed us in nature, revitalised our senses and filled our brains with new knowledge about spices. During the gentle stroll, we were able to mingle with buffalos, elephants, dogs, cats, monkeys, ducks and rare species of birds. They were all rather jealous of our buffet lunch, which included a mountain of traditional and nutritious foods served in banana leaves. After our walking tour and spice-infused feast, the only thing left to do was visit the gift shop!
#2 Get Your Chef’s Hat On at a Goan Cooking Class
For me, the act of preparing delicious food is wonderfully therapeutic. Once I’d witnessed spices in their purest form, I was eager to learn how to cook with them! Goa is home to many divine dishes, which are unique to the area. Goan Fish Curry is just the beginning, but it’s hard to go past. Ben and I learnt how to make this signature recipe, along with Tandoori Chicken, at the Grand Hyatt. The hotel’s Indian restaurant, Chulha, offers abridged cooking classes for guests, and there are many other courses on offer throughout Goa. No matter which operator you choose, you’re guaranteed to feel inspired by the ingenious use of spices in Indian cuisine. Ben and I realised we had many of the vital ingredients in our kitchen back home. The only problem was we had no idea how to turn them into something special. Well, now we do! And, we can’t wait to cook up an Indian feast once we get back to Australia.
#3 Sign Up for a Detox & Yoga Retreat
In this day and age, most of us are bombarded with toxins on a regular basis, from the air pollution we breathe to the processed foods we eat. Goa is home to a number of eco-conscious resorts, which offer detox retreats and aim to give your body a break and health boost. I opted for a 5-day Juice Cleanse and Yoga Program with The Beach House and will never forget the experience. My days were filled with remedial massages, nutrient-rich beverages, educational health talks, colonics, walks on the beach, one-on-one yoga classes, meditation and “me time”. It was bliss. And, I came out the other side having reduced my bio-age by 3 years, improved my ph level from 6 (acidic) to 8 (alkaline) and dropped 2kg. I’m keen to come back and do it all again next year!
#4 Let Your Hair Down on a Floating Casino
For a more upbeat way to unwind, enjoy one of Goa’s signature holiday experiences – the floating casinos. Ben and I ventured out to the Deltin Royale, India’s most grandiose party boat for gamblers. We kicked our night off with an epic feast on the middle floor, where buffet treats, alcoholic beverages, cabaret dancers and party beats set the indulgent tone for the evening. It wasn’t long before the gaming zones captured our curiosity. While we’re not big gamblers, it was fascinating watching the different dynamics at play. The air of exhilaration was infectious, and we were absorbed in the action for hours. By the time we caught a tender back to the peaceful mainland and crawled into bed, we were completely spent.
#5 Live in the Lap of Luxury
Few places are more relaxing than luxury resorts and hotels – they’re slices of holiday heaven where your every whim gets catered for. Goa’s stateliest establishment, the Grand Hyatt, is pure comfort and escapism of the finest kind. Ben and I had the pleasure of staying in one of the ocean-view suites, which formed a royal base for our many decedent escapades. The hotel runs daily activities to keep guests entertained during the Monsoon, from fondue evenings and Indian-inspired cocktail classes to yoga sessions and detox days. The spa complex was more like a state-of-the-art sanctuary, offering male and female spas, steam rooms, a gymnasium, relaxation room, indoor pools, beauty salon and enticing massage menu. Meal times were pamper sessions in their own right. Ben and I always savour opportunities to enjoy good food, made with love, expertise and careful consideration. At the Grand Hyatt, every experience seemed to involve those three ingredients. We felt truly taken care of – like the weight of stress and chaos had been taken off our shoulders.
Whatever your chill out style, Goa offers something to help you unwind and enjoy the enchanting charm of the Monsoon Season. From lavish resorts and fun-filled nights to health retreats, educational activities and time with nature, there’s a world of locally inspired adventure waiting to be enjoyed. While Goa is a prized holiday destination throughout winter, it’s particularly breathtaking during the Monsoon when it turns into a lush and peaceful playground. So, make sure you experience Goa’s unique diversity and sample this world-renowned travel destination during the different seasons – not just the sunny ones.
How would you describe it? Sophisticated, hospitable, majestic, peaceful, pure comfort.
Who’d love it? Off the beaten track travellers looking for a tranquil and luxurious place to “feel human again”.
How were the rooms? They were perfectly comfortable, offering the right mix of fresh cleanliness and cosiness. Both Ben and I had a great night’s sleep – the rooms helped revive us, body and soul.
How was the food? The breakfast buffet offered everything Ben and I had been craving after a few weeks in India: cook-to-order eggs, savoury sides (bacon…omnomnomnom!), fluffy pancakes, sweet pastries, fruit salad and beyond. There were also a lot of beautifully prepared local dishes on offer. The lunch and dinner menus were a bit on the pricey side, so we enjoyed a couple of meals in town (just around the corner from the Radisson). However, when we were too exhausted to take on the tout zone, the hotel restaurant provided a peaceful place to enjoy a lovely meal.
What was the vibe like? For a big hotel, it felt incredibly intimate. We were treated like well-known celebrities, not just another couple of customers. It was delightful.
How was the service? The best I’ve experienced in India. Staying at the Radisson took me back in time, to a beautiful placed shrouded in old-world charm, romance and elegance. Thanks to the staff and the atmosphere they created, we didn’t have a care in the world. They were incredibly intuitive, fulfilling our needs before we even knew they existed and going above and beyond at every possible opportunity. For example, when I asked for a wi-fi login card, they delivered it to me along with a spare for Ben knowing that he’d eventually want one too. When I ordered a glass of ice, they brought one up along with an ice bucket in case I needed a top up. When Ben realised it was the night of the UEFA Champions League Final, they set up the bar TV for him so he could enjoy the game well after operating hours. The hotel manager also offered to look at our India map and talk us through the best routes, attractions and destinations.
What were the highlights? Apart from the impeccable service, the ground were pretty special. Thanks to the grand pool and perfectly manicured grounds, the Radisson looked like an oasis in the middle of the dessert.
What’s different about the place? The sweeping marble staircase leading to the rooms was a spectacular sight. I also liked how the Radisson offered extra facilities to keep us entertained during our stay e.g. free pool table and magazine library.
How would you rate the overall experience? 8.5 out of 10 spiral staircases.
How would you describe it? Elegant, tranquil, picturesque, refreshing and impeccable.
Who’d love it? Couples and honeymooners, burnt-out corporates, creatives, and less budget-conscious hikers. It’s the perfect hideaway for those needing to recharge their batteries or enjoy a little privacy.
How were the rooms? They were perfectly plush, but in an understated way. Jumping into bed was like diving onto a soft, white marshmallow – sooooo comfy! The bathrooms were beautifully modern and spacious, with a free-standing bathtub awaiting lovers or weary-bodied travellers. The private balcony was the highlight for me – I was happy to ensconce myself in the outdoor reading chair and look out over Begnas Lake and the ice-capped Annapurna Mountains.
How was the food? Divine. It took a while to reach the table, but for good reason. The in-house chef obviously cared about the quality and presentation of his food. Everything that came out of the kitchen was delicious, hearty and vibrant. I especially loved the brioche style rolls and chocolate scrolls – I actually swore when I bit into them for the first time!
What was the vibe like? SO relaxing. Everything was just perfect. The grounds were masterfully manicured, the rooms were spacious and luxurious, the staff were attentive and friendly, the view was truly decadent…Begnas Lake Resort felt like heaven on earth. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of central Pokhara, it was seriously peaceful and revitalising.
How was the service? Pretty faultless. The smiley staff were always happy to help…even when it came to carting our hefty bags up the brutal, never-ending staircase leading to the main road.
What were the highlights? The location and the view. It really is the perfect place to get away from it all – stress, chaos, urban junk, pollution, unhealthy distractions, demanding people etc. Located around 20-minutes away from central Pokhara, you feel completely removed from the hustle and bustle. The resort rests on the back of a lush hill, which has its toes in Begnas Lake and its eyes on the Himalayas. The closeness to nature is hard to beat. When the heat of the day kicks in, its a perfect chance to unleash your inner child and jump into the lake.
What’s different about the place? You can either arrive like a royal by boat or like an adventurer by forest track. Both options are pretty cool. The canoe ride is an unforgettable experience, as Begnas Lake is a beautiful sight to behold (especially with the Annapurna Mountains in the background). The trek down the mighty cobblestone staircase is also picturesque, with dense greenery surrounding you from every angle…though the climb back up is a little brutal!
How would you rate the overall experience? 9 out of 10 chocolate scrolls.
I have no doubt that if you make the journey Myanmar, the country and its people will capture your heart. A place where Betel Nut smiles and enthusiastic waves are always on tap, the locals will literally take you by the hand and bring you into their world. They are truly beautiful both inside and out.
Not generally at the top of holiday-goers’ to-do lists, Myanmar is relatively untouched by tourism and seems to be one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Foreigners are a rare sight, which means they are treated like much-loved celebrities. It’s hard not to feel welcome.
We explored Myanmar as part of a guided tour, a requirement for overland adventurers. Having found a group of similarly placed travellers via Horizons Unlimited, we were able to bring the total cost down and enjoy the journey with kindred spirits.
We chose to team up with Myanmar Senses for our tour and highly recommend it as a company. The guides took care of our every need, including the tedious aspects of overland travel (e.g. border post transitions, paying toll fees, figuring out where to eat, arranging hotel bookings, topping us up with bottled water and face wipes, and finding toilets etc.). In the context of Myanmar, it was luxury.
Throughout the ten-day journey, I encountered some of my favourite travel experiences to date. They will forever remain tattooed to my brain and I hope my tales about them lure you to the captivating land of Myanmar.
#1 THINGYAN WATER FESTIVAL (YANGON)
There is simply no better time to visit Mynmar than during the Thingyan Water Festival. The marathon water fight welcomes in the New Year over four days in April, showcasing the local spirit and vibrant community in all of their glory.
While celebrations go wet ‘n’ wild throughout the country (even in the middle of nowhere), the heartbeat of the action is Yangon, Myanmar’s most populated city. The scene is like a kids’ ultimate battleground, a water wonderland with infinite weapons of mass drenching, including: water pistols, buckets, hoses, drums, water bottles and super strength water jets. Staying dry isn’t an option.
The fun is unavoidably infectious. Kids, the elderly, breastfeeding mum’s, families on scooters, street food vendors, rebellious monks, police officers, tourists…everyone is quick to let their hair down and join in the fun.
The battle course, an inescapable ring around the city centre, is lined with thousands of hoses mounted on concert stages. The area is positively pumping with dance, techno and popular beats. The base reverberates through every fibre of your body, igniting your adrenalin and enhancing the thrill of the battle.
Utes, packed to the brim with jumping passengers, bounce their way through the course like something out of an R&B video clip. Other party-goers (mainly teenage boys with pop-punk fashion, black make-up and wild hair cuts) weave their way through the traffic, stopping to dance and get drenched along the way.
It’s one of the funniest and most uplifting things I’ve seen in my life. People letting go of their inhibitions, strangers hugging each other and roaring the words, “Happy New Year!”, and an entire community sharing in a tremendously joyous experience. Thingyan just goes to show, people can simply get high on fun – no drugs or alcohol required.
#2 SHWEDAGON PAGODA (YANGON)
The first time you gaze upon this majestic creation, you’ll understand why she’s the Mother of all pagodas. Epic in every way imaginable, Shwedagon is the biggest, blingiest, most beloved Buddhist stupa in Myanmar. Constructed more than 2,500 years ago, she is also the oldest in the world.
So the story goes, people all over the country, as well as monarchs throughout Myanmar’s history, have donated gold to the pagoda to maintain it. The practice continues to this day after being started in the 15th century by the Queen Binnya Thau, who literally gave her weight in gold. Today, this ultra-opulent structure has become so blindingly beautiful, you practically need to wear sunnies just to look at it!
Considering her history and majesty, it’s little wonder Shwedagon Pagoda has become a focus of religious as well as community activities for the people of Myanmar. As you explore the temple compound, which extends well beyond the star attraction, local life takes stage before you. From meditating monks and bustling devotees to flower vendors and family feasts, it’s surprisingly lively for a spiritual sanctuary. So, sit back, soak up a bit of Myanmar culture and study a true wonder of the religious world.
#3 THE ANCIENT KINGDOM (BAGAN)
A trip to the Bagan plains is an enchanting journey into the past. This kingdom experienced its golden era between the 11th and 13th centuries, when over 10,000 ornate Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries were built.
Today, many of these structures still exist albeit in a weathered, battle-worn state. This gives the area an eerie gravesite-like vibe. It’s like a beautiful forgotten land, with thousands of stories locked mysteriously inside its crumbling walls. Having said that, the temples certainly haven’t been forgotten…
The Bagan Archaeological Zone is one of Myanmar’s major tourist draw cards. As such, it’s perfectly set up to accommodate visitors, offering an extensive menu of hotels, resorts and restaurants. Akin to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the star attractions are swarming with holiday-goers around sunset, all looking to capture the perfect money shot.
Smart dessert dogs are hot on the tourist trail. Weaving in between bushes, buses and boulder-structures, they hunt out any crumb of food they can possibly find. It only makes the experience seem more wild and true to life.
If you want to avoid the hustle and bustle, explore the temples at sunrise. The ancient city is possibly more picturesque at the crack of dawn, especially when it’s peak season and a dozen or so air-balloons take to the skies.
I have no doubt Bagon will climb the “so hot right now” travel destination list along with Myanmar. So, get in quick before this mystical place loses some of its raw charm.
#4 U BEIN BRIDGE (MANDALAY)
If it wasn’t peppered with litter, this site would be one of the most picturesque in Myanmar. Even with it blemishes, U Bein Bridge is pretty impressive. Built in 1850 and stretching a mighty 1.2km, it’s the oldest and longest teakwood bridge in the world. For both of these reasons, it’s a slightly knee-trembling experience trying to cross it. With hundreds of other people stomping on its planks at any given time, it feels like this rustic relic could collapse at any moment…and it’s a long sprint to terra firma!
Having said that, there are a number of utterly magical moments to be enjoyed at this local hot-spot-come-tourist-hub. A sunset boat ride around Taungthaman Lake is one of them. Weave in between angelic birds like a scene out of TheNotebook as the silhouette of U Bein Bridge ripples on the water surface.
For another peaceful moment, wander away from the bridge (past the restaurants) until you reach the goose farm. If you time things just right, you’ll get to watch the owners herd hundreds of the feathered flappers back into their enclosure like pros. The lake and sunset in the background make for glorious photographs and time-lapse videos.
I recommend arriving at U Bein Bridge at least an hour before sunset if you want to relax, enjoy the experiences on offer and capture every picturesque moment. The site is heaving with people at this time of day, so everything takes longer than expected.
Plus, there’s so much to do! You can explore the markets (I had to get myself a watermelon seed bag), make the slow journey across the bridge, sip on coconuts by the water’s edge, play with farm animals and take a gazillion photos. If you’re up for a calmer experience, make the journey to U Bein Bridge for sunrise.
#5 MAHAMUNI BUDDHA TEMPLE (MANDALAY)
For a taste of Myanmar madness (the good kind), head to the Mahamuni Buddha Temple. This highly venerated pilgrimage site draws thousands of visitors on a daily basis. Ancient tradition refers to only five likenesses of the Buddha made during his lifetime: two in India, two in paradise, and the fifth is the Mahamuni Buddha image in Mandalay. It’s little wonder this sacred site has become such a nucleus of activity for the people of Myanmar.
From the moment you attempt to spot a car park amongst the sea of scooters, you know things are about to get seriously frantic. As you push your way through the markets, which masterfully filter people through to the temple, your senses get swept away by a tantalising cocktail of vivid colours, hunger-inducing smells and curious events.
Once you finally make it into the main compound, the crowd becomes “next-level” hectic. Devotees, monks and visitors clog every artery leading to its heart, the Muhamundi Buddha statue (which can only be approached by men).
While this might sound like most people’s idea of hell, it’s actually quite a fun experience. Being thrust into a festival of Myanmar culture is truly thrilling. The locals, especially the women, make an incredible effort to wear their finest and brightest traditional clothing. The result is a moving palette of rich colours, which would put an Indian wedding to shame.
As a visitor, I think the best way to enjoy this sacred site is take a step back and watch the unique rituals and events unfold. Oh! And don’t forget to buy one of the homemade, technicolour ice-creams. They’re heaven in the heat.
#6 GOLDEN ROCK (MT KYAIKTIYO)
This has to be one of the most entertaining things a traveller can do in Myanmar. But, it’s not the act of pasting gold leaf on a gravity-defying rock which makes it so engaging. It’s the bus ride up Mt Kyaiktiyo which really gets your giggles going.
The buses in regional Myanmar aren’t like the ones we complain about in the Western World. They are giant, rickety, open-air trucks with bench seats in the back. People are packed into them like cattl; strangers sit shoulder to shoulder and knee to bum under a blazing sun. The unlucky buggers in the middle have nowhere to look but up. And that’s not the half of it.
The bus trip up Mt Kyaiktiyo is a knuckle-biting, heart-stopping, boob-bouncing thrill ride like no other. The course involves a relentless series of hairpin turns, steep inclines, killer drop-offs and breath-taking views. It’s so foreign and frightening, all you can do is laugh.
Once the ride comes to an end, your reward is laid out before you: a busting mountain village amongst the cloudy heavens. A trail of activity leads you to the pièce de résistance. Witness hefty tourists being carried on the backs of able bodied men like royalty, roving ice-pop and samosa vendors, exotic street stalls (fried snake anyone?), random explosions of cash being thrown in the air for good luck, the cutest babies in the world and thousands of devotees focused on their pilgrimage.
And then there’s the Golden Rock. Indeed, it’s a spectacular site to be seen, especially in light of the panoramic views in the background. According to legend, the mammoth feature is precariously perched on a strand of the Buddha’s hair, making it the third most important pilgrimage site after the Shwedagon Pagoda and Mahamuni Buddha Temple. But, as a non-Buddhist tourist, I have to say Golden Rock delivered the most memorable travel experience.
There you have it, six mind-blowing experiences just waiting to ignite your eternal love for Myanmar. Put this magnificent country on your radar, add these authentic adventures to your bucket list, get amongst the action, share your stories and enjoy the memories. They’ll be one of a kind.
As the sun took to the sky for another day, I enjoyed my last moment of bliss in a boudoir fit for a Queen. In my semi-awake state, I could feel myself wandering halfway between dreamland and the real world. My body was entangled in a decadent doona, relishing the soft embrace…I wanted the moment to last forever.
Unfortunately, my conscious mind was taking over and the knowledge it was my last day at the Shangri-La Hotel in Bangkok was starting to sink in…“Time to hit the road and live out of a Land Rover again!”
But, before I got my camper girl on again, I was going to stay in the land of luxury for as long as possible…until 12:30 to be precise. Breakfast became a 3-hour affair, which eventually ebbed into lunch. They offered savoury options for every possible ethnic preference after all, and I hated the thought of the leftovers going to waste!
Before I knew it, the time had come to pack up my makeshift office at the breakfast bar and prepare to leave Bangkok. As I waved goodbye to the impeccably dressed Shangri-La staff, they gave me a parting gift of beautiful smiles. I’m convinced Thai people have the best in the world. They smile from the heart and through their eyes.
I’m sure the Cambodians will be just as delightful. Now it’s time to find out and make the 800km journey to Phnom Penh. But first, I need to tackle the inner city madness of Bangkok!
Today was simply epic – a definite “best day” for 2015. Strangely enough, it was dedicated to sampling Bangkok’s local transport. It saw Ben and me dodge the traffic in a tuk-tuk; navigate the streets of central Bangkok by bicycle, foot and ferry; and then hitch a knuckle-biting a ride on a motorcycle taxi. But these experiences were only part of the fun. I will never forget the things I saw along the way…and the way they made me feel: captivated, delighted, thrilled, curious, happy. Perfect.
At the heart of everything was the Follow Me Bicycle Tour. It was a feast for all of our senses, an energy boost for our weary bodies, and a taste of Bangkok life for our hungry imaginations. My hubby, Ben Southall, took some beautiful photos throughout the tour, which really captured the experience. So, jump on your bike and let us take you on the journey…
Upon arriving at Follow Me Bike Tours‘ home base, Ben and I were encouraged to try the SiamBoran Tour, a popular choice amongst Bangkok first timers. The 22km, 4.5 hour journey promised to reveal the old-world city to us and provide more photo opportunities than we could poke a Nikon at. We were sold.
Our intimate group of five sprang into gear and got its rusty legs peddling. We wandered through the charming backstreets of Sathorn like kids in a giant maze. Around every corner we encountered a boldly coloured character wall, each more enchanting than the last. Busy Thais with untold stories caught our eye as we zoomed past, giving us a mere moment to feel the embers of intrigue before something in the distance stole our attention.
It wasn’t long before we arrived at our first temple. We enjoyed the calm after the storm of the previous tour group (which was much bigger). There was nothing to do except explore the temple in happy silence and appreciate its ornate, narrative-rich walls.
Our next stop was China Town, which didn’t originally make it on to our “must see” list. We figured it’d be like any other China Town around the world. How wrong we were. It was China Town on steroids – huge and loaded with energy. The traffic (pedestrian and otherwise) moved an inch a minute. But, it was awesome. There was so much to take in, the hustle and bustle didn’t affect my stress levels. From the freaky foods, curious smells and vibrant colours, to the intense street negotiations and utter disorder, it was a multi-layered experience like no other. We had to make it back someday.
Next, it was time to turn the energy down a notch and park our bikes at another majestic temple.Our guide, Matthew, taught us how to open lotus flowers like pros. We then offered them as gifts to Buddha, along with a silent prayer for good luck. Ben got excited when it came time to ring the giant bell, which reverberated its song through our entire bodies. There was a beautiful spiritual mystery about this place.
Our next stop was the highly anticipated flower market, Pak Khlong Talat. Bags of petals where packed sky high, creating a rainbow mountain range down the street. I couldn’t believe nature had given birth to such intensely beautiful colours: sunshine yellow, rose madder red, velvety fuschia. But the sweet aromas that danced through the air said they were real.
After a speedy ferry ride across the Chao Phraya River, we were ready to make the journey back to Follow Me Bike Tour’s home base. This meant navigating the backstreets again, which were just as entertaining as the major sites we’d visited.
At one point, we crossed paths with the most comical police officer we’d ever seen. His “siren” sounded like something out of a kid’s toy truck and his mode of transport was… questionable (see image below). Ben almost wet himself with laughter. After exchanging a friendly wave with the cheerful police office, we moved on.
Throughout our bicycle tour, we encountered many Thai children who were eager to cheer us along. It seems like the first thing they’re taught to do is say “Hi!” to strangers (the complete opposite to what they learn in Western cultures). Babies too young to walk, waved enthusiastically at us and it was heart-warming. We felt like local celebrities or family friends.
Finally, we reached Follow Me Bike Tours and it was time to head back to the Shangri-La. Unfortunately, it was peak hour. The only way home was to jump on the back of a motorcycle taxi. The experience was genuinely one of the scariest things I’ve ever done. I would’ve felt safer if I’d been blind folded. As we weaved through the traffic, I’m convinced there was a millimetre between me and death. Yet, oddly, it was one of the highlights of my day. Such a thrill! Who knows what tomorrow will bring?
Sophee Smiles 