Brace yourself! You’re senses are about to be assaulted and ignited like never before. That’s the advice I received before venturing into the brilliant beast that is Varanasi. Indeed, it was pretty bang on.
My week in “India’s spiritual capital” hit me like a psychedelic acid trip. It was a mind-blowing experience for better and for worse. The aroma was a melange of sun-baked urine, fresh human ashes, cow poop, and freshly fried pastries. My eyes were blinded by the chaotic sea of vibrant colour and constant cloud of dust. The sound of strangled tuk-tuk horns and melodic flute music filled the air from dawn til dusk. My personal space was robbed of me, as curious kids, friendly locals and assertive touts fought for my hand and got up in my grill.
Yep. I can safely say Varanasi isn’t for the faint-hearted. But, if you can persevere, this magical place will shock, move and change you to the point where it might very well become your favourite place in India. Whether you end up hating or loving your time here, it will long live in your memory. Here are some of my fondest recollections from Varanasi…
As if this place wasn’t colourful enough, with all of the vibrant saris, fruit stands and riverboats floating about, the street art and graffiti graphics inject another level of vibrancy and playfulness into Varanasi. Where there is spirituality, there is inevitably artistic expression. So, it’s little wander that the “beating heart” of the Hindu universe is liberally embellished with public art.
Varanasi is unapologetically indiscreet. The locals’ daily lives and most intimate moments are carried out in the public eye, from bathing sessions and “bathroom” stops to spiritual ceremonies, weddings and cremations. The theatre of it all is both confronting and thrilling.
Varanasi is a place where rural life and the urban world collide. The animals, particularly the cows and buffalo, rule the roads – and they know it. These courageous creatures seem completely at ease amongst the ferocious tidal wave of inner-city traffic. They have not a care in the world beyond their next bathing session or bite of food. Indeed, the animals seem to have their own exclusive section in the Ganges – there’s no better way to freshen up and escape the heat. Less comedic is the experience of watching the animals dive into mountains of rubbish for their next meal. A plate of plastic with a side of rotting chicken offcuts anyone?
“I love the night life,” and so do the people of Varanasi. As the sun says goodbye to another day, the spiritual capital of India comes out to play. The narrow streets are positively heaving with people by dusk and the action kicks on well into the night. Dashaswamedh Ghat and its neighbouring river space seem to form the main meeting point, as locals and tourists watch the nightly Aarti Ceremony and then descend on the markets. It’s a magical spectacle and true mayhem.
Thanks to the highly persistent and commonplace touts, it’s easy to get the wrong idea about the locals. But, let me assure you, they are delightful. Once they realise you’re 100% not keen to purchase anything, many switch from being relentless business people to being inquisitive and informative friends. They’re passionate about their city and they want it to get under your skin, too. I was guided to the Nepalese Temple, a popular tourist attraction, by a complete random and was pleasantly surprised when he didn’t ask for money – then again, maybe I just got lucky. As keen as the locals are to make a buck, a jovial wave, enlightening chat and strong hand shake are always at the ready.
The architecture in Varanasi is truly enchanting. Every wall tells a story and has character. From the incredibly ornate temples and labyrinth of old-world laneways to the weathered cement homes and dingy hole-in-the-wall shops, this visually eclectic city leaves you in a state of childlike wander. Prepare to get lost – enjoy the detour!
Varanasi oozes spirituality like nowhere else on earth. From the dusty outskirts and windy back roads all the way to the sacred temples and ghats by the Ganges, it’s a colossal petrie dish of spiritual life. Hindu pilgrims visit the sacred waters to wash away a lifetime of sins. The popular temples have queues a mile long, with devotees eager to place their divine offerings. Many also visit Vanarasi to cremate their loved ones in the Burning Ghats. It’s seen as a particularly auspicious place to die as expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death). It’s little wonder Varanasi is considered to be one of India’s holiest cities.
Varanasi wouldn’t be the same if it wasn’t nestled beside the Ganges. Perhaps the world’s holiest and well-known river, it conjures images of ever day life, death, festivals, playtime, community, filth and fertility – all of it shrouded in spirituality. The point where Varanasi meets the River Ganges is the ultimate nexus of these themes. It’s alive and well-used. It’s the heart and soul of Varanasi – especially at sunrise and sunset.
Varanasi takes no prisoners. It can be a brutal experience, even for veteran travellers, but it’s also guaranteed to be mind-blowing. I encountered so many absurd and challenging moments during my time here, from seeing a man with a monkey on a stick to acquiring severe food poisoning from a blatantly unhygienic street food stall (I really should’ve said no to the samosa – but it smelt so good!). Yet, I came out the other side having fallen in love with the place. It might be rough but it sure has personality.
Where there’s risk, there’s adventure. Will the experience be as good as you’d hoped? Will your body get you to the finish line? Will your spirit crumble under the pressure? Will Mother Nature decide it’s not your lucky day? Or, will you triumph in the face of these challenges, discover what you’re made of and enjoy the experience of a lifetime?
If you choose to tackle the world-renowned trek to Annapurna Base Camp, you’ll undoubtedly ask yourself these questions along the way…especially in light of the recent earthquakes. Having thrown caution to the wind and hiked my way to the Himalayan heavens, I’d like to share my brutal and unforgettably brilliant experience of the Annapurna Track.
MEET THE TEAM
Here’s the thing. I’m the kind of girl who’d rather watch movies from the comfort of a plush hotel bed than climb mountains. But, every now and then, spontaneity grabs hold of me and I leap into something stupidly epic…without training…or any knowledge of what I’m getting into. So, it’s hardly surprising that, while holidaying in Nepal, I eventually found myself signing up for the infamously gruelling Annapurna Base Camp Trek. Never mind the fact there was a strong possibility of earthquake aftershocks, landslides and avalanches.
Even more absurd was my choice of sidekicks – two freakishly fit men who’d run the entire track if I wasn’t slowing them down. My guide, Raju, had muscles on his muscles and looked like a pocked-sized Nepalese Rambo. If it were physically possible, I’d say he had 0% body fat. Then there was my husband, Ben, who’d sprinted his way along the nine Great Walks of New Zealand (545km) in nine days, setting a world record. Talk about pressure! At least I was in good hands, right?
THE TREK
So, what had I signed up for exactly? The 21-Day Annapurna Circuit was too “next level intense” for me so I opted for the 12-Day Annapurna Sanctuary Trek to Base Camp. It’d see me reach a maximum altitude of 4130m (almost twice the height of our tallest mountain back home in Oz) and cover a distance of at least 110km. It was going to be a tough slog.
Bright eyed and bushy tailed, our team of three left the land of luxury and kicked off our adventure with a gentle canoe ride across Begnas Lake. It was nice to ease into things. We could see the Annapurna Mountains in the distance and they looked like an enchanted snow-capped land from a fairy tale – and so very far away.
As the blistering heat of the day settled in, it was time to take our first steps along the track in Pokhara. After 15-minutes of razor sharp incline, I turned around to my husband and said, “What the hell am I doing? I don’t think I can do this.” Already, I was a blotchy monster with chipolata fingers, a wheeze like a severe asthmatic and sweat in places I never thought possible (elbows – WTF?!). After chugging down some water and taking a moment to breathe, I decided I could survive 12 days of trekking; I just needed to take things one step at a time – nice and slow.
By the middle of the first day, I’d become accustomed to the assault on my muscles, shoulders and heart rate. I’d learnt to zone out, let my thoughts wander away from the pain, and focus on the beauty before me. Before long, our crew had settled into a perfect routine – we continued as though on autopilot: wake at dawn, feast on porridge, slog it out until lunchtime, enjoy a carb fest, wash sweaty clothes, chill out for the afternoon, tuck into more carbs, sleep and repeat.
But don’t let our daily “humdrum” fool you. Throughout the journey, my husband and I encountered some of the most beautiful sights we’d ever witnessed. The trek was nothing short of an epic adventure. We explored bustling lowland villages, scurried under cascading waterfalls, chilled out on terraced farmlands, dodged feisty leeches in the rain, trudged through lush rhododendron forests, rattled over mighty suspension bridges, tip-toed across icy rivers, stood still in breath-taking mountain vistas and laughed our way up the snow-lined path to Annapurna Base Camp.
Getting to the finish line was like reaching nirvana. At Annapurna Base Camp, you really feel as though you’re in the land of the Gods. Surrounded by wild purple flowers, the Guest House sits at the bottom of gigantic glacial basin like a cosy village inside a snow globe. The Annapurna Mountains, reaching up to 8091m, are all encompassing. There’s nowhere to look but up. As the sun falls and the stars take its place, you’re left in awe of nature and your teeny-tiny part in it. Yep, the hard yakka was all worth it.
THE SETUP & SAFETY
The trek to Annapurna Base Camp wasn’t just a physical challenge and an opportunity to get close to nature, it also became a unique cultural experience. As we travelled from village to village, Ben and I got a taste of rural Nepalese life. After a long, tough day on the track, we loved sitting back and taking it all in: women drying spices on their roofs, men toiling over the land and keeping cattle in check, grandparents minding smiley babies, young lads unleashing their testosterone over a game of volleyball, horses carting stones along cobblestone paths, mega bees maintaining beds of technicolour roses, community dogs hunting out affection…there was enough to keep us entertained for hours.
As we retreated to our Guest House at the end of each day, we were pleasantly surprised by how kitted out they were. While most didn’t offer the luxury of a TV, but many had free Wi-Fi and solar-heated showers – bliss. They also provided uber thick blankets, mouth-watering meals often made with fresh produce from the local farms, cold beer and hot chocolate. What more could we want?
Luckily, villages were rarely more than two hours apart, which meant tea breaks were always on the horizon – a saviour waiting in the near distance. Linking the villages was a beautifully engineered pathway made of iridescent stones. They sparkled like metallic fish scales, making the journey all the more magical.
Towards the end of the trek, the path became a little more challenging. We had to race across a few frozen waterfalls and rocky boulders, where there’d been an avalanche or landslide. Thanks to our savvy guide, we learnt to forget about taking photos in these instances and move quickly along. At one point, my boots lost their grip and I started sliding down the icy mountainside. Raju pounced towards me quicker than a Nepalese snow leopard, caught my hand and pulled me to safety. Thank God for Raju!
In light of the recent earthquakes, Ben and I were glad we’d opted for a guided tour of the Annapurna Track. Our mountain guru knew the area like the back of his hand and could help us navigate the riskier parts in the safest way possible. He also monitored the weather to ensure we didn’t hike straight into dangerous territory. The Annapurna mountains are an ever-moving beast, and Raju always had a contingency plan up his sleeve for changing conditions.
If you’re thinking of tackling the Base Camp, we highly recommend having a guide. The experience, albeit gruelling in parts, felt safe for us and we came out the other side having had the time of our lives. While we encountered a few hikers going it alone, we didn’t think it was worth the risk.
CONCLUSION
The Annapurna Sanctuary Trek was every bit the adventure I’d imagined it would be…and then some. It course was physically demanding, visually thrilling and emotionally all over the place. Despite the highs and lows, I was darn proud of myself for getting to the finish line. I hope one day you’ll make the journey too. You won’t regret it.
If “going on a safari” is on your bucket list, the odds are you haven’t considered living out this dream in Nepal. While Africa dominates the safari space, Nepal’s Chitwan National Park offers unforgettable wildlife encounters which are relatively “off the beaten track”.
Knowing little about the area and its highlights, Ben and I teamed up with Kishor from Tigerland Safari Resort for some expert guidance. Over two jam-packed days, we explored the Nepalese wilderness by foot, canoe, elephant and Jeep. Here’s how our adventures unfolded…
ELEPHANT SAFARI
One of the most popular tourism experiences in Chitwan National Park is wandering through the dense grassland astride an elephant. Having witnesses the mistreatment of these beautiful creatures by tourism operators in other countries, I was initially uncomfortable with the idea of giving this a go. But, after speaking with the trainers at Tigerland Safari Resort and visiting the elephants in their enclosure, I was delighted by how well these beautiful creatures were being treated. If riding an elephant is your childhood dream and you can’t be talked out of it, make sure you choose an operator who cares for its wildlife in a humane way.
Exploring Chitwan National Park by elephant certainly has its advantages. It puts you on top of the world and delivers a prime view, while the wild things go about their business below. The creatures of Chitwan certainly seem unfazed around elephants, which are a natural and familiar sight.
During our sky-high safari, we came across the park’s most notorious attraction – the one-horned rhino. Despite their thick leathery armour and intimidating size, these monster mammals seemed very calm and, oddly enough, smiley. At one point, we also saw a crocodile swimming around our elephant’s toes. How close to nature can you get?!
Another special experience offered by Tigerland Safari Resort is the opportunity to bathe an elephant in the local river. After climbing on its bare back with less grace than a newborn calf, you make the journey to the water together and enjoy a communal drenching. As the elephant loads its trunk and unleashes a powerful jet down its back, your childhood Jungle Book dream comes to life. It’s a magical moment – one you’ll never forget.
A small tip if you decide an elephant safari is right up your alley: wear thick, long pants, as they will save your thighs from severe “elephant burn” (their hair isn’t particularly soft!). Wandering through the whip like grass can also lead to a nasty cuts, so chuck on a long-sleeved top and closed-in shoes, too.
WALKING SAFARI
Exploring Chitwan National Park by foot is the best way to uncover the majesty of its finer details. As you enter the dense jungle and tredge your way through the blanket of lime green foliage, your senses stand to attention. The complex natural aromas tantalise your nostrils, while the high-action theatre sends your eyes on a wild chase (monkey, peacock, boar, spotted dear, lizard, slug, sloth, strange red bug thing – where to look first?).
Then there’s the spectacular symphony of the birds and bugs. They lead the jungle in song and enchant its human visitors. Our savvy guide, Kishor, helped us decipher the different sounds and match them to their makers. Before long, he’d joined the jam session and started mimicking their melodies. It was awesome!
Our guide’s jungle genius didn’t end there. I’m not usually one to get excited about plants; but, once Kishor explained how the different species were used for local medicine, cuisine and craftsmanship, it was impossible not to be impressed.
CANOE SAFARI
Where there’s water, there’s life. Exploring Chitwan National Park by canoe will undoubtedly give you glimpses into its residents’ daily habits. Rhinos looking for a cool bath, deer stopping by for a quick drink, birds hunting for fish, locals chilling out…the rivers are hubs of constant activity.
It’s best to jump in a canoe for sunrise or sunset. The sun’s reflection on the water in the golden light makes for dreamy photographs. Plus, you’ll get to see the “changing of the guards”, as the nocturnal creatures make way for the daytime dwellers (or vice versa). The atmosphere at start and end of the day is both buzzing and beautifully calm – it’s a cool experience.
JEEP SAFARI
Chitwan National Park covers a whopping 932km2. If you want to traverse a decent chunk of this land and increase your chances of spotting the notoriously rare Bengal Tiger, a jeep safari is the way to go.
While you’d think the sound of a roaring engine would limit your chances of any noteworthy sightings, it’s strangely not the case. The drivers are pretty savvy and know when to take things slow ‘n’ steady. It’s a good idea to have binoculars or a camera with a zoom lens on hand, just in case you have to keep your distance.
As you Jeep-surf your way around the park’s like something out of Jurassic Park, you’ll get a chance to appreciate its sheer diversity. From the lush sal forest and eerie water marshes to the rippling elephant grassland and peripheral villages, every part of the park offers a different story and unique vibe. It’s easy to see why many travellers choose to stay a while.
As you can see, Chitwan National Park is the perfect place to go on safari. Whether you choose to explore the reserve by elephant, foot, canoe or Jeep, you’re guaranteed to experience many precious wildlife encounters. So, charge up your camera, grab your binoculars and step into the wild.
QUICK FACTS ABOUT CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK
Chitwan means “Heart of the Jungle”.
Established in 1973, it’s the first national park in Nepal.
It was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1984.
It’s one of the premier wildlife-viewing national parks in Asia.
It offers a once-in-a-lifetime chance to spot the royal Bengal tiger and encounter One-Horn Rhinos.
Many of the park’s animals were lost during the decade-long Maoist insurgency, when the Nepali army were too preoccupied with the conflict to provide adequate protection against poachers.
In the 19th Century, it was protected as a hunting reserve for Nepali and foreign aristocrats. Britain’s King George V and his son Edward VIII managed to slaughter a staggering 39 tigers and 18 rhinos during just one blood-soaked safari to Chitwan in 1911.
In March 2014, Nepal celebrated a full year without poaching of endangered animals.
I have no doubt that if you make the journey Myanmar, the country and its people will capture your heart. A place where Betel Nut smiles and enthusiastic waves are always on tap, the locals will literally take you by the hand and bring you into their world. They are truly beautiful both inside and out.
Not generally at the top of holiday-goers’ to-do lists, Myanmar is relatively untouched by tourism and seems to be one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Foreigners are a rare sight, which means they are treated like much-loved celebrities. It’s hard not to feel welcome.
We explored Myanmar as part of a guided tour, a requirement for overland adventurers. Having found a group of similarly placed travellers via Horizons Unlimited, we were able to bring the total cost down and enjoy the journey with kindred spirits.
We chose to team up with Myanmar Senses for our tour and highly recommend it as a company. The guides took care of our every need, including the tedious aspects of overland travel (e.g. border post transitions, paying toll fees, figuring out where to eat, arranging hotel bookings, topping us up with bottled water and face wipes, and finding toilets etc.). In the context of Myanmar, it was luxury.
Throughout the ten-day journey, I encountered some of my favourite travel experiences to date. They will forever remain tattooed to my brain and I hope my tales about them lure you to the captivating land of Myanmar.
#1 THINGYAN WATER FESTIVAL (YANGON)
There is simply no better time to visit Mynmar than during the Thingyan Water Festival. The marathon water fight welcomes in the New Year over four days in April, showcasing the local spirit and vibrant community in all of their glory.
While celebrations go wet ‘n’ wild throughout the country (even in the middle of nowhere), the heartbeat of the action is Yangon, Myanmar’s most populated city. The scene is like a kids’ ultimate battleground, a water wonderland with infinite weapons of mass drenching, including: water pistols, buckets, hoses, drums, water bottles and super strength water jets. Staying dry isn’t an option.
The fun is unavoidably infectious. Kids, the elderly, breastfeeding mum’s, families on scooters, street food vendors, rebellious monks, police officers, tourists…everyone is quick to let their hair down and join in the fun.
The battle course, an inescapable ring around the city centre, is lined with thousands of hoses mounted on concert stages. The area is positively pumping with dance, techno and popular beats. The base reverberates through every fibre of your body, igniting your adrenalin and enhancing the thrill of the battle.
Utes, packed to the brim with jumping passengers, bounce their way through the course like something out of an R&B video clip. Other party-goers (mainly teenage boys with pop-punk fashion, black make-up and wild hair cuts) weave their way through the traffic, stopping to dance and get drenched along the way.
It’s one of the funniest and most uplifting things I’ve seen in my life. People letting go of their inhibitions, strangers hugging each other and roaring the words, “Happy New Year!”, and an entire community sharing in a tremendously joyous experience. Thingyan just goes to show, people can simply get high on fun – no drugs or alcohol required.
#2 SHWEDAGON PAGODA (YANGON)
The first time you gaze upon this majestic creation, you’ll understand why she’s the Mother of all pagodas. Epic in every way imaginable, Shwedagon is the biggest, blingiest, most beloved Buddhist stupa in Myanmar. Constructed more than 2,500 years ago, she is also the oldest in the world.
So the story goes, people all over the country, as well as monarchs throughout Myanmar’s history, have donated gold to the pagoda to maintain it. The practice continues to this day after being started in the 15th century by the Queen Binnya Thau, who literally gave her weight in gold. Today, this ultra-opulent structure has become so blindingly beautiful, you practically need to wear sunnies just to look at it!
Considering her history and majesty, it’s little wonder Shwedagon Pagoda has become a focus of religious as well as community activities for the people of Myanmar. As you explore the temple compound, which extends well beyond the star attraction, local life takes stage before you. From meditating monks and bustling devotees to flower vendors and family feasts, it’s surprisingly lively for a spiritual sanctuary. So, sit back, soak up a bit of Myanmar culture and study a true wonder of the religious world.
#3 THE ANCIENT KINGDOM (BAGAN)
A trip to the Bagan plains is an enchanting journey into the past. This kingdom experienced its golden era between the 11th and 13th centuries, when over 10,000 ornate Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries were built.
Today, many of these structures still exist albeit in a weathered, battle-worn state. This gives the area an eerie gravesite-like vibe. It’s like a beautiful forgotten land, with thousands of stories locked mysteriously inside its crumbling walls. Having said that, the temples certainly haven’t been forgotten…
The Bagan Archaeological Zone is one of Myanmar’s major tourist draw cards. As such, it’s perfectly set up to accommodate visitors, offering an extensive menu of hotels, resorts and restaurants. Akin to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the star attractions are swarming with holiday-goers around sunset, all looking to capture the perfect money shot.
Smart dessert dogs are hot on the tourist trail. Weaving in between bushes, buses and boulder-structures, they hunt out any crumb of food they can possibly find. It only makes the experience seem more wild and true to life.
If you want to avoid the hustle and bustle, explore the temples at sunrise. The ancient city is possibly more picturesque at the crack of dawn, especially when it’s peak season and a dozen or so air-balloons take to the skies.
I have no doubt Bagon will climb the “so hot right now” travel destination list along with Myanmar. So, get in quick before this mystical place loses some of its raw charm.
#4 U BEIN BRIDGE (MANDALAY)
If it wasn’t peppered with litter, this site would be one of the most picturesque in Myanmar. Even with it blemishes, U Bein Bridge is pretty impressive. Built in 1850 and stretching a mighty 1.2km, it’s the oldest and longest teakwood bridge in the world. For both of these reasons, it’s a slightly knee-trembling experience trying to cross it. With hundreds of other people stomping on its planks at any given time, it feels like this rustic relic could collapse at any moment…and it’s a long sprint to terra firma!
Having said that, there are a number of utterly magical moments to be enjoyed at this local hot-spot-come-tourist-hub. A sunset boat ride around Taungthaman Lake is one of them. Weave in between angelic birds like a scene out of TheNotebook as the silhouette of U Bein Bridge ripples on the water surface.
For another peaceful moment, wander away from the bridge (past the restaurants) until you reach the goose farm. If you time things just right, you’ll get to watch the owners herd hundreds of the feathered flappers back into their enclosure like pros. The lake and sunset in the background make for glorious photographs and time-lapse videos.
I recommend arriving at U Bein Bridge at least an hour before sunset if you want to relax, enjoy the experiences on offer and capture every picturesque moment. The site is heaving with people at this time of day, so everything takes longer than expected.
Plus, there’s so much to do! You can explore the markets (I had to get myself a watermelon seed bag), make the slow journey across the bridge, sip on coconuts by the water’s edge, play with farm animals and take a gazillion photos. If you’re up for a calmer experience, make the journey to U Bein Bridge for sunrise.
#5 MAHAMUNI BUDDHA TEMPLE (MANDALAY)
For a taste of Myanmar madness (the good kind), head to the Mahamuni Buddha Temple. This highly venerated pilgrimage site draws thousands of visitors on a daily basis. Ancient tradition refers to only five likenesses of the Buddha made during his lifetime: two in India, two in paradise, and the fifth is the Mahamuni Buddha image in Mandalay. It’s little wonder this sacred site has become such a nucleus of activity for the people of Myanmar.
From the moment you attempt to spot a car park amongst the sea of scooters, you know things are about to get seriously frantic. As you push your way through the markets, which masterfully filter people through to the temple, your senses get swept away by a tantalising cocktail of vivid colours, hunger-inducing smells and curious events.
Once you finally make it into the main compound, the crowd becomes “next-level” hectic. Devotees, monks and visitors clog every artery leading to its heart, the Muhamundi Buddha statue (which can only be approached by men).
While this might sound like most people’s idea of hell, it’s actually quite a fun experience. Being thrust into a festival of Myanmar culture is truly thrilling. The locals, especially the women, make an incredible effort to wear their finest and brightest traditional clothing. The result is a moving palette of rich colours, which would put an Indian wedding to shame.
As a visitor, I think the best way to enjoy this sacred site is take a step back and watch the unique rituals and events unfold. Oh! And don’t forget to buy one of the homemade, technicolour ice-creams. They’re heaven in the heat.
#6 GOLDEN ROCK (MT KYAIKTIYO)
This has to be one of the most entertaining things a traveller can do in Myanmar. But, it’s not the act of pasting gold leaf on a gravity-defying rock which makes it so engaging. It’s the bus ride up Mt Kyaiktiyo which really gets your giggles going.
The buses in regional Myanmar aren’t like the ones we complain about in the Western World. They are giant, rickety, open-air trucks with bench seats in the back. People are packed into them like cattl; strangers sit shoulder to shoulder and knee to bum under a blazing sun. The unlucky buggers in the middle have nowhere to look but up. And that’s not the half of it.
The bus trip up Mt Kyaiktiyo is a knuckle-biting, heart-stopping, boob-bouncing thrill ride like no other. The course involves a relentless series of hairpin turns, steep inclines, killer drop-offs and breath-taking views. It’s so foreign and frightening, all you can do is laugh.
Once the ride comes to an end, your reward is laid out before you: a busting mountain village amongst the cloudy heavens. A trail of activity leads you to the pièce de résistance. Witness hefty tourists being carried on the backs of able bodied men like royalty, roving ice-pop and samosa vendors, exotic street stalls (fried snake anyone?), random explosions of cash being thrown in the air for good luck, the cutest babies in the world and thousands of devotees focused on their pilgrimage.
And then there’s the Golden Rock. Indeed, it’s a spectacular site to be seen, especially in light of the panoramic views in the background. According to legend, the mammoth feature is precariously perched on a strand of the Buddha’s hair, making it the third most important pilgrimage site after the Shwedagon Pagoda and Mahamuni Buddha Temple. But, as a non-Buddhist tourist, I have to say Golden Rock delivered the most memorable travel experience.
There you have it, six mind-blowing experiences just waiting to ignite your eternal love for Myanmar. Put this magnificent country on your radar, add these authentic adventures to your bucket list, get amongst the action, share your stories and enjoy the memories. They’ll be one of a kind.
Every now and then, I come across a woman who inspires me to be the change I want to see in the world. A few days ago, I met a British lass who did just that. Her name was Emma (she’s second from the left in the below pic).
With her sun-bleached hair, freckly skin and salt-of-the-earth smile, it was obvious this English Rose wasn’t afraid of a little hard yakka in the great outdoors. Emma was a woman after my own Australian heart. Dedicating her time and talents to a wildlife sanctuary in regional Cambodia, she’d kindly invited us to get our hands dirty and shadow her for the afternoon.
After a quick exchange of hellos ‘n’ hugs, we jumped in the Colonel and followed Emma’s scooter to the sanctuary. During the dusty trip, I started thinking about the cool creatures I was going to meet – species I’d never encountered before. I was “ants in my pants” excited and couldn’t wait to feed the elephants, cuddle baby bears and challenge my fear of monkeys.
But, as we parked our vehicles and started chatting to Emma about her work, the sanctuary took on a different vibe. It sounded like its residents experienced challenging living standards, which Emma was working hard to improve. I must admit, the modest set up made the zoos back home look like palaces.
The sanctuary also stimulated conversations about the treatment (and trading) of Cambodian wildlife on a broader scale. I was compelled to do a little research, so I could understand the situation better. But first, the elephants needed their daily fix of fruit, attention and affection.
As Emma handed the leathery giants whole banana trees, we saw their unique personalities come through – the female did a coy tap dance as she gently chomped away on her snack while the male asserted his strength, confidence and dominance. Their natural tendencies came out to play, as neither elephant had been trained.
The experience made me think about the countless tourists I’d seen riding elephants throughout Thailand and Cambodia. A decade or so ago, I was one of those tourists. My mum and I enjoyed a girls’ getaway in Phuket and, like many others, we thought elephant rides were a must-try local experience. We were thrilled to give it a go – it was the stuff of dreams. I couldn’t wait to get back to my friends and tell them all about it.
After visiting the sanctuary in Cambodia and researching things a bit more, I realised how wrong we were. Our actions supported the unnatural and, possibly, cruel treatment of elephants. It’s now impossible for me to ignore the chains around their ankles and lack of shade above their heads, as they wait to be fitted with weighty saddles. There’s something really unsettling about the image. I’d also read that many operators deprived their elephants of sleep and food to “break” and train them. There was no way I’d be participating in an elephant ride again.
Next, Emma took us to meet the hornbills. I’d never been a fan of birds. I was convinced they hated human affection and would “beak me to bits” if I ever got too close. The hornbills at the sanctuary certainly taught me a lesson. They were like energetic puppy dogs with feathers. The female kept nuzzling my hand and dropping her paw paw in front of me – the bird wanted to play fetch?! The same piece of fruit went back and forth about a dozen times before I tore myself away. I didn’t want to get too attached.
Next, it was time to meet the resident gibbon. Emma had a soft spot for him and it wasn’t hard to see why. The expression in his glassy eyes was enough to break anyone’s heart. He seemed to crave human attention, putting his hand through the cage so he could hold Emma’s fingers. He didn’t want her to leave.
I’d read some eye-opening articles about the illegal trade of monkeys in Cambodia. The intense poverty in this country is undeniable, with 20% of Cambodians living below the poverty line. As such, some view the local wildlife as a resource to be used for commercial benefit. Traders have been known to pack their vehicles with over a hundred monkeys, often putting them on ice. That way, if they died while being exported, the meat would stay fresh. It’s hard to comprehend.
Next, we wandered over to the bear enclosure, which housed two cubs. They were possibly the cutest things I’d ever seen! As they rolled around on their backs, juggling mangoes between oversized paws, we were able to tickle them behind the ears. I had to hold myself back from picking one up and smothering it in cuddles. It was hard to believe poachers used these glorious creatures for bait, tying sharp metal rings around their necks and making them cry out in pain so their mothers would come to the rescue. Bear fur was big business.
So it seemed, all of the creatures at this sanctuary were vulnerable to mistreatment or worse. They (or their parts) were in high-demand, especially throughout China and Vietnam. Hunting down rare delicacies, animal “remedies”, tourism opportunities and exotic accessories sounded like a lucrative game.
If only there was an obvious way to put a stop to it all – I’m not sure education and sustainable commercial avenues are enough. While it’s heart-warming to meet people like Emma who are fighting for the health and safety of the animals, it seems like bigger picture issue is a relentless battle. I guess all I can do is tuck into more research, promote awareness of the hard facts and figure out how I can help.
Visiting the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek was a gut-wrenching experience. It was hard to believe that around 25% of Cambodians were killed during the brutal reign of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, and the mass genocide commenced merely a month after my husband was born. Bones and fragments of clothing were still visible in the soil, giving us a sharp glimpse of the indescribable horror. It all seemed too fresh.
After our tour of the Killing Fields, we hurried back to the vibrancy of central Phnom Penh to remind ourselves how far the country and its people had come. We hit up the highly regarded Central Market, which is located in and around an epic dome structure that’s hard to miss. Here, we found everything from technicolour wigs and glitzy bling to fru fru frocks and fake watches. But the best part was undoubtedly the food market.
The pungent aroma of unrefrigerated meat mixed with local spices hit us before the wild visual. Mountains of exotic fruit, fresh seafood, colourful grains and unrecognisable proteins – I couldn’t decide what to inspect first! After an hour of being laughed at by the stall holders (“Haha! Why lady take fifty photo of my shrimp? Crazy tourist-lady!”), we sat down for a quick bite to eat. Unsure of the meat products contained within our dumplings and soups, we decided not to think about it and simply tuck in. They were delicious.
To end the day, we made our way to the esplanade and hopped on a sunset cruise along the Mekong River. It only set the three of us back $20 USD in total and we had the boat all to ourselves for an hour. It was a perfect way to escape the hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh and see the city from another perspective.
The next morning, it was time to pack our bags and make the journey to Siem Reap. The 8-hour road trip was bumpy, dusty and eye-opening. My brain was ticking the entire way, as I watched the hard-working men, women, children and animals along the highway. I found myself wishing I had time to stay with a rural family for a while, so I could understand their lives better. It looked like a tough gig.
As the sun set on another day we sluggishly rolled into Siem Reap, sweaty and coated in Cambodian dirt. The place was lit up like a Christmas tree and seemed to host a hotel for every tourist…and there were a lot of tourists. If this was anything to go by, Angkor Wat was going to be heaving in the morning!
This morning, my backyard was a precious beach off the North Eastern Coast of Thailand. We’d left Bangkok late the day before and decided to pitch a tent around sun down. That call placed us in this unknown destination, which turned out to be our favourite pseudo camping spot yet.
As we wearily rolled our Rover onto the sand, the unexpected sound of singing filled the air. It appeared a jovial group of Thais were engaged in a drunken karaoke session. They were belting out the lyrics to “My Heart Will Go On” in their Thai-English accents. It was enough to send us over the edge and into fits of laughter. It’d been a long day.
The next morning, we woke to the soothing sound of the waves. We had a quick bath in the warm ocean, as the local kids curiously watched on. After a lazy start to the day, we finally hit the road again and made our way towards the Cambodian border followed by Phnom Penh.
Over the course of the day, we whizzed past a some spectacular sites. I was like a kid on her first road trip – glued to the car window, eyes wide open. Floating fishing villages were proudly on display, with vibrant colours giving their communities a beautiful energy. Entire families were working the land alongside water buffalos. It was all new to me. Exciting to watch.
I wondered what Phnom Penh was going to be like. Let’s just say it was a shock to the system. I’ll explain why in my next blog.
Sophee Smiles 