HAPPY DAY 15 // THE UNEXPECTED MAGIC OF MAE SOT

So excited by the prospect of Myanmar, we certainly didn’t expect Mae Sot, a quaint border post town, to steal our attention. But it certainly stopped us in our tracks – even from the distant outskirts.They were like nothing we’d ever seen in Thailand. Wasn’t it all just epic beaches, party islands and chilled out villages?

As we continued on the road to Mae Sot, it cut a mighty path through the surrounding lime green canopies. It felt as through the trees would come crashing down on us at any moment like something out of an Indiana Jones movie. But we raced on through and made it out the other side of that gloriously wild tunnel.

What we stumbled across next was simply marvellous. Thousands of playful butterflies encircled our Landy, as if they were the next part of our adventure course. It was a moment  where we simply had to join in the fun and let stupid grins take over our faces. It was time to dance with nature.

Barely 20km out from Mae Sot, we spotted a blip on the map which looked like a promising dinner spot. After taking our detour through Taksinmaharat National Park, we quickly discovered it was more like a school camping ground and it was utterly deserted. So we went exploring…

Lucky for us, it delivered some truly spectacular view points. We felt like we were on top of the world (or Thailand), looking out from a mountain top, as the breeze danced through our hair and the sunset sunk behind the distant range.

As the darkness descended on us, it was time to refocus and get settled in Mae Sot! Thanks to the wonderfully hospitable Land Rover Owners’ Club in Thailand, we’d been set up in a little sanctuary just outside of the town. At a glance, our room looked like a quaint little cabin with lots of character. Inside, it contained everything we could possible need or want: a double bed, a fridge, a separate bathroom, air-con, fans and a TV with 424 channels. Bliss!

The next day we took to the town. It had a lot more life to it than we expected. While it doesn’t take long to get to know the place, there’s a lot packed into its tiny city centre.

I should have read up on the dress code a bit more. There I was, strutting down the street in my Phuket-style beach clothes (shorts, bikini and a sea-through top) only to discover the women were covered from head to toe. They giggled at me as I walked past – the men seemed confused.

We decided to escape the heat and funny glances by going for a Thai massage. My masseuse kept getting distracted by my sunburn. Every now and then I felt her peeling the skin off my shoulders – gross! Oh well, it’s nice to know the ape-like tendency to preen each other exists between strangers as well as loved ones in Thailand.

Before we knew it, night had fallen and it was time to feast. Mae Sot picks up its pace at night, and there seemed to be two main roads which hosted hungry diners. One was loaded with bars and “glitzy” restaurants. The other was lined with street food carts. We opted for the later.

As we made our way towards the market square, we randomly ran into our soon-to-be travel buddies (in order to drive across Myanmar you need to be part of a guided tour group). We spent the next couple of hours exchanging enthusiastic introductions, local food, travel stories and questions about Myanmar. After we bid adieu to our newfound friends and drifted into the land of dreams, we realised how little we knew about our next destination. At least that meant it was going to be an adventure.

HAPPY DAY 11 // THE ROAD TO PHNOM PENH

This morning, my backyard was a precious beach off the North Eastern Coast of Thailand. We’d left Bangkok late the day before and decided to pitch a tent around sun down. That call placed us in this unknown destination, which turned out to be our favourite pseudo camping spot yet.

As we wearily rolled our Rover onto the sand, the unexpected sound of singing filled the air. It appeared a jovial group of Thais were engaged in a drunken karaoke session. They were belting out the lyrics to “My Heart Will Go On” in their Thai-English accents. It was enough to send us over the edge and into fits of laughter. It’d been a long day.

The next morning, we woke to the soothing sound of the waves. We had a quick bath in the warm ocean, as the local kids curiously watched on. After a lazy start to the day, we finally hit the road again and made our way towards the Cambodian border followed by Phnom Penh. 

Over the course of the day, we whizzed past a some spectacular sites. I was like a kid on her first road trip – glued to the car window, eyes wide open. Floating fishing villages were proudly on display, with vibrant colours giving their communities a beautiful energy. Entire families were working the land alongside water buffalos. It was all new to me. Exciting to watch.

I wondered what Phnom Penh was going to be like. Let’s just say it was a shock to the system. I’ll explain why in my next blog.

HAPPY DAY 10 // FROM LUXURY TO LAND ROVER

As the sun took to the sky for another day, I enjoyed my last moment of bliss in a boudoir fit for a Queen. In my semi-awake state, I could feel myself wandering halfway between dreamland and the real world. My body was entangled in a decadent doona, relishing the soft embrace…I wanted the moment to last forever.

Unfortunately, my conscious mind was taking over and the knowledge it was my last day at the Shangri-La Hotel in Bangkok was starting to sink in…“Time to hit the road and live out of a Land Rover again!”

But, before I got my camper girl on again, I was going to stay in the land of luxury for as long as possible…until 12:30 to be precise. Breakfast became a 3-hour affair, which eventually ebbed into lunch. They offered savoury options for every possible ethnic preference after all, and I hated the thought of the leftovers going to waste!

Before I knew it, the time had come to pack up my makeshift office at the breakfast bar and prepare to leave Bangkok. As I waved goodbye to the impeccably dressed Shangri-La staff, they gave me a parting gift of beautiful smiles. I’m convinced Thai people have the best in the world. They smile from the heart and through their eyes.

I’m sure the Cambodians will be just as delightful. Now it’s time to find out and make the 800km journey to Phnom Penh. But first, I need to tackle the inner city madness of Bangkok!

HAPPY DAY 9 // BANGKOK BY BICYCLE

Today was simply epic – a definite “best day” for 2015. Strangely enough, it was dedicated to sampling Bangkok’s local transport. It saw Ben and me dodge the traffic in a tuk-tuk; navigate the streets of central Bangkok by bicycle, foot and ferry; and then hitch a knuckle-biting a ride on a motorcycle taxi. But these experiences were only part of the fun. I will never forget the things I saw along the way…and the way they made me feel: captivated, delighted, thrilled, curious, happy. Perfect.

At the heart of everything was the Follow Me Bicycle Tour. It was a feast for all of our senses, an energy boost for our weary bodies, and a taste of Bangkok life for our hungry imaginations. My hubby, Ben Southall, took some beautiful photos throughout the tour, which really captured the experience. So, jump on your bike and let us take you on the journey…

Upon arriving at Follow Me Bike Tours‘ home base, Ben and I were encouraged to try the Siam Boran Tour, a popular choice amongst Bangkok first timers. The 22km, 4.5 hour journey promised to reveal the old-world city to us and provide more photo opportunities than we could poke a Nikon at. We were sold.

Our intimate group of five sprang into gear and got its rusty legs peddling. We wandered through the charming backstreets of Sathorn like kids in a giant maze. Around every corner we encountered a boldly coloured character wall, each more enchanting than the last. Busy Thais with untold stories caught our eye as we zoomed past, giving us a mere moment to feel the embers of intrigue before something in the distance stole our attention.

It wasn’t long before we arrived at our first temple. We enjoyed the calm after the storm of the previous tour group (which was much bigger). There was nothing to do except explore the temple in happy silence and appreciate its ornate, narrative-rich walls.

Our next stop was China Town, which didn’t originally make it on to our “must see” list. We figured it’d be like any other China Town around the world. How wrong we were. It was China Town on steroids – huge and loaded with energy. The traffic (pedestrian and otherwise) moved an inch a minute. But, it was awesome. There was so much to take in, the hustle and bustle didn’t affect my stress levels. From the freaky foods, curious smells and vibrant colours, to the intense street negotiations and utter disorder, it was a multi-layered experience like no other. We had to make it back someday.

Next, it was time to turn the energy down a notch and park our bikes at another majestic temple. Our guide, Matthew, taught us how to open lotus flowers like pros. We then offered them as gifts to Buddha, along with a silent prayer for good luck. Ben got excited when it came time to ring the giant bell, which reverberated its song through our entire bodies. There was a beautiful spiritual mystery about this place.

Our next stop was the highly anticipated flower market, Pak Khlong Talat. Bags of petals where packed sky high, creating a rainbow mountain range down the street. I couldn’t believe nature had given birth to such intensely beautiful colours: sunshine yellow, rose madder red, velvety fuschia. But the sweet aromas that danced through the air said they were real.

After a speedy ferry ride across the Chao Phraya River, we were ready to make the journey back to Follow Me Bike Tour’s home base. This meant navigating the backstreets again, which were just as entertaining as the major sites we’d visited.

At one point, we crossed paths with the most comical police officer we’d ever seen. His “siren” sounded like something out of a kid’s toy truck and his mode of transport was… questionable (see image below). Ben almost wet himself with laughter. After exchanging a friendly wave with the cheerful police office, we moved on.

Throughout our bicycle tour, we encountered many Thai children who were eager to cheer us along. It seems like the first thing they’re taught to do is say “Hi!” to strangers (the complete opposite to what they learn in Western cultures). Babies too young to walk, waved enthusiastically at us and it was heart-warming. We felt like local celebrities or family friends.

Finally, we reached Follow Me Bike Tours and it was time to head back to the Shangri-La. Unfortunately, it was peak hour. The only way home was to jump on the back of a motorcycle taxi. The experience was genuinely one of the scariest things I’ve ever done. I would’ve felt safer if I’d been blind folded. As we weaved through the traffic, I’m convinced there was a millimetre between me and death. Yet, oddly, it was one of the highlights of my day. Such a thrill! Who knows what tomorrow will bring?

HAPPY DAY 9 // WANDERING THE STREETS OF BANGKOK

I loved today. The past 24 hours have seen me hop from one hotel to another, and explore the high-energy streets of Bangkok in between. I believe there’s no better way to see this city than by foot. There’s so much going on, any other mode of transport moves too quickly to take the layers, stories and thrills in.

Before hitting the pavement and having all of my senses assaulted, I enjoyed a quick “holiday from my holiday”. Staying at Sathorn Grace was a welcome change from camping in Colonel Mustard. The rooftop pool was heaven – I bathed, baked and let my brain drift amongst the digital pages of a Grisham novel. It was my perfect escape.

Next, it was time to get lost in the urban jungle. I was free to roam the streets of Sathorn at my leisure and take pictures along the way. The chaos, grit and grime were mesmerising and strangely beautiful. I think I’d be happy living here for many years. My mind would thrive amongst the relentless stimulus. From the endless street food strips to the people living on the street, there’s so much to try and understand. It’s bloody fascinating!

Once the afternoon arrived, it was time to catch up with two beautiful strangers: Richard and Dennis. These design gurus founded the custom motorcycle brand “Half Caste Creations”. Needless to say, their bikes have made it on to my inspiration board. Fingers crossed that Law of Attraction stuff works. I need one of these babies in my life! If Steve Jobs had gone into motorcycles, he’d have put Richard and Dennis on his design team. The 90-minute, 10km journey to meet them was totally worthy the angst.

Finally, it was time live in the lap of luxury at the Shangri-La Hotel. Yeeeeooooow! The moment I walked under its crystal chandeliers, past the perfectly dressed staff, through to the regal reception desk, I knew my time here was going to be memorable. The staff welcomed Ben and me with traditional Thai wreaths. They were meticulously handcrafted so we could put them on our pillows and let the gentle aromas help us drift off to sleep. And, now it’s time to put them to the test. Somehow, I think I’m going to find my perfect pillow!

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Getting Pampered, Poked and Prodded in Thailand

I can confidently say I’ve never been to a tourist destination where holiday goers seem more relaxed than in Thailand. Beyond the idyllic settings and laid-back local attitude, the comparative affordability of everything seems to help people truly unwind. In Thailand, you can be completely self-indulgent with money and time – the two things we seem to stress about most – and not feel guilty about it.

So what does that mean? It’s time to treat yourself to a few decadent experiences simply because they’ll make you look and feel great. Here are my top three picks for those wanting to get the most out of their time and money in Thailand.

DENTAL WORK

A few months ago, Ben ignored that little voice inside his head that said, “Don’t do it!” and attempted to open a bottle with his teeth. Needless to say, it resulted in a chipped incisor and newly acquired hobo grin (which was actually kind of cute). So, the plan was to repair the damage (a new crown was needed), fix a couple of fillings and get Ben’s teeth whitened using Zoom technology in Thailand. The entire package set us back around $1000 AUD – it would have been triple the cost back home in Australia.

It you’re thinking about jumping on the medical tourism bandwagon and getting some dental work done in Thailand, we highly recommend it. Based on the advice of friends, we chose to go under the drill at Phuket Dental Signature. This clinic is the size of a small hospital and it’s so crisp white, you almost need sunglasses inside. The staff were friendly, super-skilled and easy to communicate with. We also found great comfort in the free Wi-Fi and air-con, which are both highly sought after in tourist riddled, piping hot Patong.

You can see the results of Ben’s dental work in the photo below. He’s looking pretty darn fine if I don’t say so myself!

DETOXING THE MIND & BODY

After a weekend of debauchery at the Full Moon Party, visiting a detox resort sounded like a good idea. We hit up The Sanctuary, which was perfectly placed just around the corner from “party central” in a quiet little hideaway. After a 10-minute boat ride, we wandered up the private beach and immediately knew we were somewhere special. This was where the real hippies were hanging out and their lean yoga bodies, ornate tattoos, technicolour fashion and wild haircuts were all proudly on display. It was another world – one we couldn’t wait to sample.

With only a day to enjoy The Sanctuary, Ben and I picked three different experiences from the extensive menu on offer: yoga, spa treatments and…colonics. Yes, colonics. The yoga session was a shock to the system and we quickly felt the full force of the Full Moon Party. Having said that, it was also the best yoga class we’d ever been to – the instructor’s voice was incredibly soothing putting us in a meditative state.

Next came the spa treatments. Ben opted for a full body massage to repair his muscles after a weekend of dance raves. I chose the full body scrub to cleanse the stubborn dirt and grime of long-term travel. Both offered a complete sensory experience. The smell of the spice-infused body scrub actually made my mouth water and the effect on my skin was brilliantly intense. I remember feeling ice cold and red hot at the same time. Ben and I both felt as though we’d been given new life after our treatments.

Lastly, we tackled the self-administered colonics. We were both feeling nervous and vulnerable as we walked into the ‘demo chamber’. After a quick tutorial, Ben and I were put into separate cubicles, which happened to be situated side by side (how romantic). We’ve reached a new level of intimacy in our relationship and heard things we can’t un-hear (despite the elevator music playing in the background). While we both left the session feeling “lighter” and less bloated, we agreed it was one of grossest things we’d ever done. Each to their own. Enough said.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to sample most of The Sanctuary’s signature offerings. They are renowned for their detox programs, which sound somewhat life changing. Not only are they designed to eliminate toxins from your body and help you discover newfound energy, they can also challenge your emotional connection with food. These programs can be supported by a number of mind-body-spirit sessions from the obvious (yoga, Pilates and meditation) to the unusual (Taoist abdominal massage, Reiki, NLP and “Shake Therapy”). If we’d had more time up our sleeves, we definitely would have given them a go.

GETTING PAMPERED TO A PULP

The idea of spending a whole day in a beauty spa sounds ludicrous anywhere in the world – except Thailand. If you hit up one of the many urban sanctuaries which line the city streets, you can practically afford to walk in and do everything one the menu, including: manis/pedis, eyelash extensions, massages, hair treatments, the weird feet-nibbling fish thing, facials and beyond. A full day will set you back anywhere between $100-$300AUD in the cheaper spas depending on your choice of treatments. Don’t feel shy about haggling or asking for a discounted package cost.

There are some important things to keep in mind before you jump into the first spa you lay eyes on. Remember, you get what you pay for. Our first massage came from a bargain beauty salon on a main road in Patong. There was no music, the air-con was broken and their traditional Thai massage was more like a back tickle. But it was ok for $12 AUD.

We tried the same thing at Pier 42 and had a completely different experience. From the rustic charm of the rooms and soothing forest music, to the intriguing scents of the oils and masterful massage techniques of the staff, it was pure heaven. Again, it was well worth the price. So, decide what level of luxury you’re after, do your research online and at your hotel reception desk, and match your expectations with your budget.

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HAPPY DAY 8 // WAT ARUN AND THE RECLINING BUDDHA

Today didn’t start well. I woke up in Bangkok feeling down for no particular reason. How could there be a reason? I’m living a dream life! I should be nothing but happy, right?

I guess we all have our bad days, and the only thing I could do to pick myself up was…something. Anything! As long as I kept my brain engaged and distracted, I’d feel somewhere between ok and great. And, by the end of today, I was feeling pretty great.

FOCUSING ON THE POSITIVE…

Having compiled a lengthy to-explore-and-experience list for Bangkok, it was time to tick something off. I decided to go with Wat Arun and the Reclining Buddah, as it sounded nothing short of spectacular and it was likely to put a smile on my face.

Indeed it did. I’ve never seen a more ornate, beautifully crafted series of temples. There had to be at least a dozen spires, covered from base to tip with bedazzling mosaics, shells and shiny things.

The complex was like a giant maze – the kind you want to get lost in. It felt good to be free, inspired and in awe around such majesty. I was successfully engaged and distracted for nearly two hours.

Soon it was time to go on the hunt for some dinner. Bangkok’s most notorious Road, Khaosan, was calling. This megawatt hub of energy was exactly what I needed. There was so much to look at and take in, all I could do was smile and enjoy the experience.

There were carts with fried scorpions and tarantulas, hundreds of “same same” clothing stalls, a mix of top-end and ridiculously cheap restaurants, break dancers and beyond.

I’m pleased to say I was so lost in the moment, I forgot to take photos (except for the one above). But, not to worry, I will undoubtedly be back again!

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HAPPY DAY 7 // ROAD TRIP TO BANGKOK

The past 24 hours have seen us tackle one of our longest drives to date. We made the 1200km journey from Khao Lak to Bangkok and had a quick sleep at a random beach along the way. Beyond driving, we didn’t get up to much; but, that wasn’t a bad thing. It was relaxing to think the most productive thing we’d achieve was getting from Point A to Point B. Plus, the journey gave my mind a chance to dream, wander, play and ponder life’s possibilities – things it didn’t get much time to do back home in Oz.

GRATITUDE…
It’s days like this that make me feel so lucky to be living out of a Land Rover and enjoying a life of travel. Waking up on a secluded beach, starting the day with an outdoor shower and feasting on brekky by the water. It’s not a bad way to exist! Check out my pics below to see some of my favourite moments from the today.

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HAPPY DAY 6 // SCUBA DIVING IN THAILAND

Over the past few weeks, I’ve enjoyed a lot of time hanging around beautiful beaches, hectic markets and bustling cities throughout Thailand. Today, it was time to get away from it all and dive into the underwater world. I’d heard Richelieu Rock off the Similan Islands offered the best diving in the area, if not Thailand, so that’s where I took the plunge.

From the get go, I knew I was going to enjoy the experience. The water was warm and welcoming – there wasn’t a single current to battle against. The rock itself looked like it’d been draped in the robes of a cardinal. Decadent purples, rich golds and delicate lace patterns covered every last inch of it. Just beautiful.

Then there were the fish. I swear they were Thai by location and by nature. They were the friendliest creatures of the sea I’d ever encountered. Each time I ventured closer to inspect one, it’d look back at me with a chilled out expression that said, “Sawatdeekha! Where you from lady?”.

The schools of fish were just as calm. They were sunshine yellow, forming pockets of glory against the backdrop of fluorescent grape rock formations. You could pleasure your child-like urge to get amongst the action – the fish wouldn’t scurry away.

While I missed out on seeing a whale shark (they’re a rare sight these days), I managed to spot a lobster, sea horse, cuttlefish, moray eel, harlequin shrimp and a whole lot more. Plus, Richelieu Rock was the most glorious piece of underwater architecture I’d ever laid eyes on. Part of me wanted to sit in front of the drop off and watch the theatre unfold. But it was just too darn pretty. I had to get up close and practically touch it, like a woman drawn to sparkly bling.

All in all, a dive out at Richelieu Rock was well worth the time and money spent. I opted for a quick day trip with two dives, as visa arrangements in Bangkok were calling. But, there’s the option of a luxurious live-aboard experience too. Ben and I were hosted by Big Blue and would highly recommend them.

HIGHLIGHT OF THE DAY…
Escaping the hustle an bustle of terra firma Thailand, and seeing this beautiful country from an underwater perspective. It didn’t disappoint.

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HAPPY DAY 5 // MY NEW FAVOURITE BEACH

Camping has it’s challenges in Thailand, especially in the main tourist hubs. Whenever I query someone about nearby campsites, I generally get the same response: “Why on earth would you sleep in a tent when a 5-star resort costs $40 a night?” If Ben and I were on holiday for a couple of weeks, I’d be in complete agreement. However, we want to live a life of travel until the sun sets on 2015. So, every little bit counts.

Last night, we made it to our next stop, Khao Lak, as the sun was setting on yet another perfect day…or at least we thought it was until we discovered a distinct lack of campsites. This charming holiday destination is popular amongst affluent seniors, especially from Europe. So, unfortunately, the beach is lined with 5-star resorts…and no campsites.

We finally plucked up the courage to enter one of the highly guarded fortresses (Khao Lak Andaman Beach Resort) and ask if we could set up camp in their compound. They agreed. But, only if we handed over $50 in exchange for a tiny section of concrete for Colonel Mustard and our tent plus the use of their public toilet and shower for one night. OMG!

FOCUSING ON THE POSITIIVES…
Needless to say, we found ways to make the most out of our $50 stay. Under the cover of darkness, Ben discovered the wi-fi password and we surfed the net to our heart’s content. We also enjoyed sneaky late night and early morning swims in the impressive pools, which were blissful and actually kind of romantic. The epic beachside location also made our stay worth it’s weight in gold.

During our time in Khao Lak, I spent a couple of hours exploring the dreamy coastline. It’s become my favourite slice of sandy heaven in Thailand. I wasn’t expecting the black earth, serene ocean and obscenely beautiful sunsets. They were mind-blowingly beautiful.

So, I found myself a giant waterfront boulder, laid back and closed my eyes on the world. My senses came alive as I drifted into dreamland. The warm breeze gently tickled my skin. I could hear exotic conversations being whispered in the distance. Time was irrelevant. All was calm. I was a lucky girl.

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