BEWITCHED BY HAMPI

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Before arriving in India, Hampi had been on my bucket list for a while…but, I couldn’t tell you why. For some unknown reason, it was one of the few places I could name in India. Perhaps I’d heard wonderful whispers about Hampi without really taking them in. While I knew I wanted to visit this mysterious place, I didn’t have a clue what made it special. So, as Ben and I approached this tourist Mecca, I tucked into some research. Here are a few insights which caught my attention:

  • Hampi, which means “champion”, is located within the infamous ruins of Vijayanagara, the former capital of the Vijayanagara Empire.
  • The ruins are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
  • Hampi formed one of the core areas of the Vijayanagara Empire from 1343 to 1565. It was chosen because of its strategic location, bounded by the torrential Tungabhadra River on one side and surrounded by defensible hills on its other three sides.
  • Hampi continues to be a significant historical, architectural and religious site. It’s home to many notable Hindu temples, some of which are still active places of worship.
  • The extant monuments of Vijayanagara (or Hampi) can be divided into Religious, Civil and Military buildings.
  • While most of the monuments in Hampi are from the Vijayanagara period, a small proportion have been assigned to pre-Vijayanagara times. The first historical settlements in Hampi date back to 1CE!

While these insights were certainly fascinating, it wasn’t until Ben and I arrived in Hampi that we understood why it was a major pit stop on the traveller circuit. We were spellbound from the moment we laid eyes on the mars-like landscape. It was so different to anything we’d seen before – a sea of giant boulders perched precariously over miles of undulated terrain, their rusty hues offset by zesty green palm groves, banana plantations and paddy fields. A perfect azure sky, peppered with fluffy white Simpson’s clouds, enhanced the epic atmosphere. The forlorn ruins seemed scattered across Hampi’s dramatic scenery, their former beauty still glimmering through the harsh destruction of time.

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Before long, Ben and I had lost ourselves to the ancient relics. With only a half day available to explore Hampi, we stuck to the area’s main attractions, including the Vittala Temple and its iconic stone chariot, market corridors and musical pillars. Wandering through the mammoth temple entrance, we were transported to a bygone era. It’s ornate walls oozed secrets from the past – the architecture was mesmerising.

As Ben and I wrapped up our time in Hampi and started our journey to Goa, we watched the legendary landscape fly past our car windows in distracted silence. It was amazing to see how millions of years of volcanic activity and erosion could result in a beautifully bewitching backdrop. If only we’d had time to linger a little longer.

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BEWITCHED BY HAMPI

5 WAYS TO CHILL OUT IN GOA DURING THE MONSOON

When you imagine a holiday in Goa, sun-kissed beaches, wild parties, and hordes of hippies probably come to mind. What if I was to tell you this tourist hot spot becomes particularly blissful throughout the Monsoon Season?

Few international tourists realise Goa is a playground 365 days of the year. The idea of visiting during its wettest months might seem strange; but, for travellers who dream of total relaxation, a beautiful backdrop and mellow holiday vibe, it’s the perfect time to chill out in this aspirational destination. Here are some of my favourite ways to unwind and soak up the magic of Goa during the Monsoon.

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#1 Explore the Tropical Spice Plantation

A trip to India isn’t complete without a visit to a spice plantation. When Goa takes on a slower pace, it’s the perfect time to head towards the lush hills and discover spices in their most natural state. Ben and I visited the Tropical Spice Plantation in Keri (Ponda). Upon arrival, we were welcomed with traditional offerings of flower garlands, kumkum (red, round marks impressed on our foreheads) and herbal teas. Our guided tour immersed us in nature, revitalised our senses and filled our brains with new knowledge about spices. During the gentle stroll, we were able to mingle with buffalos, elephants, dogs, cats, monkeys, ducks and rare species of birds. They were all rather jealous of our buffet lunch, which included a mountain of traditional and nutritious foods served in banana leaves. After our walking tour and spice-infused feast, the only thing left to do was visit the gift shop!

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#2 Get Your Chef’s Hat On at a Goan Cooking Class

For me, the act of preparing delicious food is wonderfully therapeutic. Once I’d witnessed spices in their purest form, I was eager to learn how to cook with them! Goa is home to many divine dishes, which are unique to the area. Goan Fish Curry is just the beginning, but it’s hard to go past. Ben and I learnt how to make this signature recipe, along with Tandoori Chicken, at the Grand Hyatt. The hotel’s Indian restaurant, Chulha, offers abridged cooking classes for guests, and there are many other courses on offer throughout Goa. No matter which operator you choose, you’re guaranteed to feel inspired by the ingenious use of spices in Indian cuisine. Ben and I realised we had many of the vital ingredients in our kitchen back home. The only problem was we had no idea how to turn them into something special. Well, now we do! And, we can’t wait to cook up an Indian feast once we get back to Australia.

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#3 Sign Up for a Detox & Yoga Retreat

In this day and age, most of us are bombarded with toxins on a regular basis, from the air pollution we breathe to the processed foods we eat. Goa is home to a number of eco-conscious resorts, which offer detox retreats and aim to give your body a break and health boost. I opted for a 5-day Juice Cleanse and Yoga Program with The Beach House and will never forget the experience. My days were filled with remedial massages, nutrient-rich beverages, educational health talks, colonics, walks on the beach, one-on-one yoga classes, meditation and “me time”. It was bliss. And, I came out the other side having reduced my bio-age by 3 years, improved my ph level from 6 (acidic) to 8 (alkaline) and dropped 2kg. I’m keen to come back and do it all again next year!

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#4 Let Your Hair Down on a Floating Casino

For a more upbeat way to unwind, enjoy one of Goa’s signature holiday experiences – the floating casinos. Ben and I ventured out to the Deltin Royale, India’s most grandiose party boat for gamblers. We kicked our night off with an epic feast on the middle floor, where buffet treats, alcoholic beverages, cabaret dancers and party beats set the indulgent tone for the evening. It wasn’t long before the gaming zones captured our curiosity. While we’re not big gamblers, it was fascinating watching the different dynamics at play. The air of exhilaration was infectious, and we were absorbed in the action for hours. By the time we caught a tender back to the peaceful mainland and crawled into bed, we were completely spent.

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#5 Live in the Lap of Luxury 

Few places are more relaxing than luxury resorts and hotels – they’re slices of holiday heaven where your every whim gets catered for. Goa’s stateliest establishment, the Grand Hyatt, is pure comfort and escapism of the finest kind. Ben and I had the pleasure of staying in one of the ocean-view suites, which formed a royal base for our many decedent escapades. The hotel runs daily activities to keep guests entertained during the Monsoon, from fondue evenings and Indian-inspired cocktail classes to yoga sessions and detox days. The spa complex was more like a state-of-the-art sanctuary, offering male and female spas, steam rooms, a gymnasium, relaxation room, indoor pools, beauty salon and enticing massage menu. Meal times were pamper sessions in their own right. Ben and I always savour opportunities to enjoy good food, made with love, expertise and careful consideration. At the Grand Hyatt, every experience seemed to involve those three ingredients. We felt truly taken care of – like the weight of stress and chaos had been taken off our shoulders.

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Whatever your chill out style, Goa offers something to help you unwind and enjoy the enchanting charm of the Monsoon Season. From lavish resorts and fun-filled nights to health retreats, educational activities and time with nature, there’s a world of locally inspired adventure waiting to be enjoyed. While Goa is a prized holiday destination throughout winter, it’s particularly breathtaking during the Monsoon when it turns into a lush and peaceful playground. So, make sure you experience Goa’s unique diversity and sample this world-renowned travel destination during the different seasons – not just the sunny ones.

5 WAYS TO CHILL OUT IN GOA DURING THE MONSOON

LESSONS IN HAPPINESS FROM BHUTAN

If there’s such a thing as utopia, it exists in Bhutan. You’d be hard-pressed to find a place more pure of heart. Indeed, Bhutan grabbed the world’s attention when it chose measure its success against Gross National Happiness rather than material development. But, what does Gross National Happiness mean exactly? Is there more to Bhutan’s bliss than a government paradigm?

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This pocket-sized country, nestled quietly amongst the clouds, is shrouded in mystery. To better understand Bhutan and what makes it tick, Ben and I decided to spend a week exploring its dramatic landscape and quaint towns. During that time, we interviewed a monk in a monastery, a nun on a mountaintop, royalty in hotel, an NGO Program Director at a festival, and our wonderful tour guide whilst on the road.

We discovered the Bhutanese had a lot to teach the world about contentment and how individuals, communities and nations can embed happiness into every fibre of their being. Here are some of the lessons we learnt during our stay…

#1: START WITH THE RIGHT FOUNDATION

The Bhutanese have it right. From the moment little ones can walk ‘n’ talk, they are taught about happiness and how to bring it into their own lives. In fact, schools include happiness lessons in their curriculum! Lesson #1: focus on developing admirable human qualities.

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When you meet a Bhutanese person, you instinctively sense they’re a good egg. They come across as friendly, patient, compassionate, disciplined, humble, genuine and ultra respectful – qualities which are instilled in them throughout their entire lives. Motivated by their devout Buddhist beliefs, they’re pure of heart, mind and intention. It brings them joy, inner peace and a whole lot of good karma.

#2: PUT YOUR PRIORITIES ON A PEDESTAL

The Bhutanese ensure their core values (Buddhist and beyond) are front and centre in their lives. In many other parts of the world, it’s a case of “out of sight, out of mind”. People lead work-oriented lives until December comes around when they remember to spend time with loved ones, help members of the community, touch base with their spirituality, and re-evaluate their goals. By January, all is practically forgotten and back to work they go. Their day-to-day lifestyles don’t don’t reflect what’s truly important to them. As a result, they feel stressed, dissatisfied, lost and down in the dumps way too often.

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For the Bhutanese, Buddhism is thickly woven throughout every aspect of their lives. From prayer flags atop razor sharp mountains to homes lathered in mystical designs, religious iconography makes itself known at every turn serving as a constant reminder of people’s core values, goals and priorities. It’s almost impossible to “go off track” and lose sight of what’s important. Rituals play an equally significant role in Bhutanese life. Meditation and seeking guidance from deities or monks are regular practices, helping people make focused decisions which are inline with their desired trajectory.

Lesson #2: whatever your source of bliss (family, philanthropy, religion, sport, business, academia, art and beyond), it should be championed by your lifestyle. Don’t let it take a back seat while you get distracted by stress and humdrum routines. Create daily rituals which preserve and inspire your dreams. Set up visual queues, which keep your priorities top of mind. Live and breathe your core values. Build your happy place.

#3: DO YOUR BEST TO HELP THE REST

The Bhutanese are one of the most compassionate, community-oriented races on earth. They’re acutely aware of suffering and actively help those facing hardship. Even a poor farmer with little to give will offer what he can to those in need. So it seems, brightening someone’s day offers the ultimate compensation – the “feel good factor”.

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Beyond helping the distressed, the Bhutanese also avoid causing pain…even when it comes to animals. The only form of legal “hunting” is fishing, which is approved on a catch and release basis. All living creatures roam free without the fear of being killed for food, fun or fear. This anecdote about my guide demonstrates just how caring the Bhutanese can be…

One night, Ben and I were being attacked by some particularly aggressive mosquitoes. We started swatting them with our hands, hoping to terminate the little tykes. All the while, our guide sat calmly and did nothing. When we asked him why, he said he couldn’t intentionally kill a living creature as it would bring about bad karma. Plus, he didn’t mind sharing his blood with the mozzies, as they needed it to survive. Needless to say, we felt pretty guilty after that.

To sum things up, the Bhutanese believe every action inspires an equal reaction. When you act selfishly or cause harm to others, it’ll leave a bad taste in your mouth and come back to bite you. If you’re compassionate and generous, you can rest easy and trust that help will find you when you need it. Lesson #3: Helping others breeds happiness, inner peace and a sense of security.

#4 KEEP IT SIMPLE

From they day they’re born, the Bhutanese learn to find happiness in the simple life. Kids play with blades of grass, sticks or worn out rubber tires. If these things break or go missing, no worries. They’re free and easy to replace. Western children, who tend to prefer the latest techno-gadgets, are much more susceptible to stress, anger, envy and other negative emotions. What if my Playsation is older than yours? What if my iPad won’t connect to the internet? What if my iPhone smashes and my parents have to spend hundreds of dollars on a new one? Lesson #4: get back to basics and avoid unnecessary stress.

During my time at Tiger’s Nest Monastery, I had the opportunity to speak with a monk. He said it was a difficult path to take as a young boy because he didn’t have access to certain luxuries (e.g. TV) like other children. But, as time went on, his contentment surpassed his peers’, as they’s acquired the stresses of family, work, city and contemporary life. The monk, on the other hand, spent his days meditating and studying Buddhism in the company of nature. His life was simple, yet completely fulfilling.

I’m not saying the path of a devout Buddhist monk or nun is the only way to find happiness. The principle of omitting unnecessary stresses from your life and taking time to enjoy simple pleasures has merit. For me, baking a cake, reading a book and chatting to my mum bring me more smiles than my inbox. Yet, the latter gets a lot more of my time. It makes absolutely no sense.

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#5 BE PATIENT & GOVERN FOR THE GOOD OF ALL

It’s hard to imagine a government which genuinely champions equality amongst its people, makes decisions for the good of all, and protects the environment. But, Bhutan’s leaders seem to be doing exactly that, achieving Gross National happiness along the way.

What’s they key to their success? They take things one step at a time. Acting in haste to keep up with the rest of the world is not Bhutan’s style. Until the 1960’s it had no roads, automobiles, telephone, postal system or electricity. Limited access to TV and the internet wasn’t enabled until 1999, once people had been taught how to manage the pros and cons of this technology (dinner in front of the telly with everyone absorbed in mobile phones doesn’t constitute family time in Bhutan).

This cautious country has been so patient with its decisions, it’s managed to skip the horrors of the Industrial Revolution and jump straight to the 21st century. With a strong focus on sustainability, it’s become the only “carbon sink” in the world; Bhutan actually creates more energy than it uses! Unlike most of Asia, its towns are in spit spot condition. Litter is scarce, electrical wires are hidden, buildings look immaculate, pollution is undetectable and operations run smoothly. Taking time to observe the experiences of other countries, Bhutan has been able to get things right for the good of its people and the environment.

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While signs of democracy are steadily weaving their way into Bhutan, this transition isn’t being rushed either (Bhutan had its first general election in 2008). To ensure the divide between rich and poor doesn’t spiral out of control, the government is balancing the scales with an egalitarian approach. This can be seen in Bhutan’s management of tourism. It cost Ben and me $2500 as a couple to tour the country for a week. The majority of this tariff was absorbed by the government and distributed throughout the community (focusing on areas in need, e.g. regional housing development). This means, the entire country benefits from tourism, not just the operators.

Even the Royal Family is working hard support less affluent communities. Due to the small population of Bhutan (approx. 700,000), it’s able to keep its finger on the pulse and recognise those who are underprivileged. Heading a number of charities which ensure people’s basic needs are met (especially in remote communities), the royals (and NGOs) are careful not to go overboard. Their perspective? If the people are happy as they are, why try to change them and and inject dissatisfaction into their lives (i.e. a desire for more)?

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Lesson #5: Think before you act; take your time considering the outcomes; and, make a decision which supports the well-being of all parties involved – there’s always a way. This will inspire loyalty, trust, unity and contentment amongst the community. This philosophy rings true when it comes to leading countries, families, interest groups and beyond.

CONCLUSION

After visiting Bhutan, I was in two minds. One one hand, I felt deeply saddened by the experience. It made me realise how much suffering, negativity, discord and inequality was being nurtured by other countries. Crossing the border from Bhutan straight into India was a shock to the system! On the flip side, Bhutan was proof that purity still existed in the world. I was surprised and delighted by this unassuming country, which genuinely felt like the happiest place on earth. Bhutan has so much to teach the world, I hope it marches to the beat of its own drum for many years to come.

LESSONS IN HAPPINESS FROM BHUTAN

HAPPY DAY 9 // BANGKOK BY BICYCLE

Today was simply epic – a definite “best day” for 2015. Strangely enough, it was dedicated to sampling Bangkok’s local transport. It saw Ben and me dodge the traffic in a tuk-tuk; navigate the streets of central Bangkok by bicycle, foot and ferry; and then hitch a knuckle-biting a ride on a motorcycle taxi. But these experiences were only part of the fun. I will never forget the things I saw along the way…and the way they made me feel: captivated, delighted, thrilled, curious, happy. Perfect.

At the heart of everything was the Follow Me Bicycle Tour. It was a feast for all of our senses, an energy boost for our weary bodies, and a taste of Bangkok life for our hungry imaginations. My hubby, Ben Southall, took some beautiful photos throughout the tour, which really captured the experience. So, jump on your bike and let us take you on the journey…

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Upon arriving at Follow Me Bike Tours‘ home base, Ben and I were encouraged to try the Siam Boran Tour, a popular choice amongst Bangkok first timers. The 22km, 4.5 hour journey promised to reveal the old-world city to us and provide more photo opportunities than we could poke a Nikon at. We were sold.

Our intimate group of five sprang into gear and got its rusty legs peddling. We wandered through the charming backstreets of Sathorn like kids in a giant maze. Around every corner we encountered a boldly coloured character wall, each more enchanting than the last. Busy Thais with untold stories caught our eye as we zoomed past, giving us a mere moment to feel the embers of intrigue before something in the distance stole our attention.

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It wasn’t long before we arrived at our first temple. We enjoyed the calm after the storm of the previous tour group (which was much bigger). There was nothing to do except explore the temple in happy silence and appreciate its ornate, narrative-rich walls.

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Our next stop was China Town, which didn’t originally make it on to our “must see” list. We figured it’d be like any other China Town around the world. How wrong we were. It was China Town on steroids – huge and loaded with energy. The traffic (pedestrian and otherwise) moved an inch a minute. But, it was awesome. There was so much to take in, the hustle and bustle didn’t affect my stress levels. From the freaky foods, curious smells and vibrant colours, to the intense street negotiations and utter disorder, it was a multi-layered experience like no other. We had to make it back someday.

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Next, it was time to turn the energy down a notch and park our bikes at another majestic temple. Our guide, Matthew, taught us how to open lotus flowers like pros. We then offered them as gifts to Buddha, along with a silent prayer for good luck. Ben got excited when it came time to ring the giant bell, which reverberated its song through our entire bodies. There was a beautiful spiritual mystery about this place.

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Our next stop was the highly anticipated flower market, Pak Khlong Talat. Bags of petals where packed sky high, creating a rainbow mountain range down the street. I couldn’t believe nature had given birth to such intensely beautiful colours: sunshine yellow, rose madder red, velvety fuschia. But the sweet aromas that danced through the air said they were real.

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After a speedy ferry ride across the Chao Phraya River, we were ready to make the journey back to Follow Me Bike Tour’s home base. This meant navigating the backstreets again, which were just as entertaining as the major sites we’d visited.

At one point, we crossed paths with the most comical police officer we’d ever seen. His “siren” sounded like something out of a kid’s toy truck and his mode of transport was… questionable (see image below). Ben almost wet himself with laughter. After exchanging a friendly wave with the cheerful police office, we moved on.

Throughout our bicycle tour, we encountered many Thai children who were eager to cheer us along. It seems like the first thing they’re taught to do is say “Hi!” to strangers (the complete opposite to what they learn in Western cultures). Babies too young to walk, waved enthusiastically at us and it was heart-warming. We felt like local celebrities or family friends.

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Finally, we reached Follow Me Bike Tours and it was time to head back to the Shangri-La. Unfortunately, it was peak hour. The only way home was to jump on the back of a motorcycle taxi. The experience was genuinely one of the scariest things I’ve ever done. I would’ve felt safer if I’d been blind folded. As we weaved through the traffic, I’m convinced there was a millimetre between me and death. Yet, oddly, it was one of the highlights of my day. Such a thrill! Who knows what tomorrow will bring?

HAPPY DAY 9 // BANGKOK BY BICYCLE