ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP: A HIGH ALTITUDE ADVENTURE

Where there’s risk, there’s adventure. Will the experience be as good as you’d hoped? Will your body get you to the finish line? Will your spirit crumble under the pressure? Will Mother Nature decide it’s not your lucky day? Or, will you triumph in the face of these challenges, discover what you’re made of and enjoy the experience of a lifetime?

If you choose to tackle the world-renowned trek to Annapurna Base Camp, you’ll undoubtedly ask yourself these questions along the way…especially in light of the recent earthquakes. Having thrown caution to the wind and hiked my way to the Himalayan heavens, I’d like to share my brutal and unforgettably brilliant experience of the Annapurna Track.

MEET THE TEAM

Here’s the thing. I’m the kind of girl who’d rather watch movies from the comfort of a plush hotel bed than climb mountains. But, every now and then, spontaneity grabs hold of me and I leap into something stupidly epic…without training…or any knowledge of what I’m getting into. So, it’s hardly surprising that, while holidaying in Nepal, I eventually found myself signing up for the infamously gruelling Annapurna Base Camp Trek. Never mind the fact there was a strong possibility of earthquake aftershocks, landslides and avalanches.

Even more absurd was my choice of sidekicks – two freakishly fit men who’d run the entire track if I wasn’t slowing them down. My guide, Raju, had muscles on his muscles and looked like a pocked-sized Nepalese Rambo. If it were physically possible, I’d say he had 0% body fat. Then there was my husband, Ben, who’d sprinted his way along the nine Great Walks of New Zealand (545km) in nine days, setting a world record. Talk about pressure! At least I was in good hands, right?

THE TREK

So, what had I signed up for exactly? The 21-Day Annapurna Circuit was too “next level intense” for me so I opted for the 12-Day Annapurna Sanctuary Trek to Base Camp. It’d see me reach a maximum altitude of 4130m (almost twice the height of our tallest mountain back home in Oz) and cover a distance of at least 110km. It was going to be a tough slog.

Bright eyed and bushy tailed, our team of three left the land of luxury and kicked off our adventure with a gentle canoe ride across Begnas Lake. It was nice to ease into things. We could see the Annapurna Mountains in the distance and they looked like an enchanted snow-capped land from a fairy tale – and so very far away.

As the blistering heat of the day settled in, it was time to take our first steps along the track in Pokhara. After 15-minutes of razor sharp incline, I turned around to my husband and said, “What the hell am I doing? I don’t think I can do this.” Already, I was a blotchy monster with chipolata fingers, a wheeze like a severe asthmatic and sweat in places I never thought possible (elbows – WTF?!). After chugging down some water and taking a moment to breathe, I decided I could survive 12 days of trekking; I just needed to take things one step at a time – nice and slow.

By the middle of the first day, I’d become accustomed to the assault on my muscles, shoulders and heart rate. I’d learnt to zone out, let my thoughts wander away from the pain, and focus on the beauty before me. Before long, our crew had settled into a perfect routine – we continued as though on autopilot: wake at dawn, feast on porridge, slog it out until lunchtime, enjoy a carb fest, wash sweaty clothes, chill out for the afternoon, tuck into more carbs, sleep and repeat.

But don’t let our daily “humdrum” fool you. Throughout the journey, my husband and I encountered some of the most beautiful sights we’d ever witnessed. The trek was nothing short of an epic adventure. We explored bustling lowland villages, scurried under cascading waterfalls, chilled out on terraced farmlands, dodged feisty leeches in the rain, trudged through lush rhododendron forests, rattled over mighty suspension bridges, tip-toed across icy rivers, stood still in breath-taking mountain vistas and laughed our way up the snow-lined path to Annapurna Base Camp.

Getting to the finish line was like reaching nirvana. At Annapurna Base Camp, you really feel as though you’re in the land of the Gods. Surrounded by wild purple flowers, the Guest House sits at the bottom of gigantic glacial basin like a cosy village inside a snow globe. The Annapurna Mountains, reaching up to 8091m, are all encompassing. There’s nowhere to look but up. As the sun falls and the stars take its place, you’re left in awe of nature and your teeny-tiny part in it. Yep, the hard yakka was all worth it.

THE SETUP & SAFETY

The trek to Annapurna Base Camp wasn’t just a physical challenge and an opportunity to get close to nature, it also became a unique cultural experience. As we travelled from village to village, Ben and I got a taste of rural Nepalese life. After a long, tough day on the track, we loved sitting back and taking it all in: women drying spices on their roofs, men toiling over the land and keeping cattle in check, grandparents minding smiley babies, young lads unleashing their testosterone over a game of volleyball, horses carting stones along cobblestone paths, mega bees maintaining beds of technicolour roses, community dogs hunting out affection…there was enough to keep us entertained for hours.

As we retreated to our Guest House at the end of each day, we were pleasantly surprised by how kitted out they were. While most didn’t offer the luxury of a TV, but many had free Wi-Fi and solar-heated showers – bliss. They also provided uber thick blankets, mouth-watering meals often made with fresh produce from the local farms, cold beer and hot chocolate. What more could we want?

Luckily, villages were rarely more than two hours apart, which meant tea breaks were always on the horizon – a saviour waiting in the near distance. Linking the villages was a beautifully engineered pathway made of iridescent stones. They sparkled like metallic fish scales, making the journey all the more magical.

Towards the end of the trek, the path became a little more challenging. We had to race across a few frozen waterfalls and rocky boulders, where there’d been an avalanche or landslide. Thanks to our savvy guide, we learnt to forget about taking photos in these instances and move quickly along. At one point, my boots lost their grip and I started sliding down the icy mountainside. Raju pounced towards me quicker than a Nepalese snow leopard, caught my hand and pulled me to safety. Thank God for Raju!

In light of the recent earthquakes, Ben and I were glad we’d opted for a guided tour of the Annapurna Track. Our mountain guru knew the area like the back of his hand and could help us navigate the riskier parts in the safest way possible. He also monitored the weather to ensure we didn’t hike straight into dangerous territory. The Annapurna mountains are an ever-moving beast, and Raju always had a contingency plan up his sleeve for changing conditions.

If you’re thinking of tackling the Base Camp, we highly recommend having a guide. The experience, albeit gruelling in parts, felt safe for us and we came out the other side having had the time of our lives. While we encountered a few hikers going it alone, we didn’t think it was worth the risk.

CONCLUSION

The Annapurna Sanctuary Trek was every bit the adventure I’d imagined it would be…and then some. It course was physically demanding, visually thrilling and emotionally all over the place. Despite the highs and lows, I was darn proud of myself for getting to the finish line. I hope one day you’ll make the journey too. You won’t regret it.

To book your Annapurna Adventure, contact Intertours Nepal: www.intertours-nepal.com

REVIEW: BEGNAS LAKE RESORT

How would you describe it? Elegant, tranquil, picturesque, refreshing and impeccable.

Who’d love it? Couples and honeymooners, burnt-out corporates, creatives, and less budget-conscious hikers. It’s the perfect hideaway for those needing to recharge their batteries or enjoy a little privacy.

How were the rooms? They were perfectly plush, but in an understated way. Jumping into bed was like diving onto a soft, white marshmallow – sooooo comfy! The bathrooms were beautifully modern and spacious, with a free-standing bathtub awaiting lovers or weary-bodied travellers. The private balcony was the highlight for me – I was happy to ensconce myself in the outdoor reading chair and look out over Begnas Lake and the ice-capped Annapurna Mountains.

How was the food? Divine. It took a while to reach the table, but for good reason. The in-house chef obviously cared about the quality and presentation of his food. Everything that came out of the kitchen was delicious, hearty and vibrant. I especially loved the brioche style rolls and chocolate scrolls – I actually swore when I bit into them for the first time!

What was the vibe like? SO relaxing. Everything was just perfect. The grounds were masterfully manicured, the rooms were spacious and luxurious, the staff were attentive and friendly, the view was truly decadent…Begnas Lake Resort felt like heaven on earth. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of central Pokhara, it was seriously peaceful and revitalising.

How was the service? Pretty faultless. The smiley staff were always happy to help…even when it came to carting our hefty bags up the brutal, never-ending staircase leading to the main road.

What were the highlights? The location and the view. It really is the perfect place to get away from it all – stress, chaos, urban junk, pollution, unhealthy distractions, demanding people etc. Located around 20-minutes away from central Pokhara, you feel completely removed from the hustle and bustle. The resort rests on the back of a lush hill, which has its toes in Begnas Lake and its eyes on the Himalayas. The closeness to nature is hard to beat. When the heat of the day kicks in, its a perfect chance to unleash your inner child and jump into the lake.

What’s different about the place? You can either arrive like a royal by boat or like an adventurer by forest track. Both options are pretty cool. The canoe ride is an unforgettable experience, as Begnas Lake is a beautiful sight to behold (especially with the Annapurna Mountains in the background). The trek down the mighty cobblestone staircase is also picturesque, with dense greenery surrounding you from every angle…though the climb back up is a little brutal!

How would you rate the overall experience? 9 out of 10 chocolate scrolls.

Resort Details:
Sundari Danda, Begnas Lake, Pokhara, Nepal
Tel: (+977-61) 560030, 560070, 693304
Email (sales office): begnasresort@fewamail.com.np
www.begnaslakeresort.com

LESSONS IN HAPPINESS FROM BHUTAN

If there’s such a thing as utopia, it exists in Bhutan. You’d be hard-pressed to find a place more pure of heart. Indeed, Bhutan grabbed the world’s attention when it chose measure its success against Gross National Happiness rather than material development. But, what does Gross National Happiness mean exactly? Is there more to Bhutan’s bliss than a government paradigm?

This pocket-sized country, nestled quietly amongst the clouds, is shrouded in mystery. To better understand Bhutan and what makes it tick, Ben and I decided to spend a week exploring its dramatic landscape and quaint towns. During that time, we interviewed a monk in a monastery, a nun on a mountaintop, royalty in hotel, an NGO Program Director at a festival, and our wonderful tour guide whilst on the road.

We discovered the Bhutanese had a lot to teach the world about contentment and how individuals, communities and nations can embed happiness into every fibre of their being. Here are some of the lessons we learnt during our stay…

#1: START WITH THE RIGHT FOUNDATION

The Bhutanese have it right. From the moment little ones can walk ‘n’ talk, they are taught about happiness and how to bring it into their own lives. In fact, schools include happiness lessons in their curriculum! Lesson #1: focus on developing admirable human qualities.

When you meet a Bhutanese person, you instinctively sense they’re a good egg. They come across as friendly, patient, compassionate, disciplined, humble, genuine and ultra respectful – qualities which are instilled in them throughout their entire lives. Motivated by their devout Buddhist beliefs, they’re pure of heart, mind and intention. It brings them joy, inner peace and a whole lot of good karma.

#2: PUT YOUR PRIORITIES ON A PEDESTAL

The Bhutanese ensure their core values (Buddhist and beyond) are front and centre in their lives. In many other parts of the world, it’s a case of “out of sight, out of mind”. People lead work-oriented lives until December comes around when they remember to spend time with loved ones, help members of the community, touch base with their spirituality, and re-evaluate their goals. By January, all is practically forgotten and back to work they go. Their day-to-day lifestyles don’t don’t reflect what’s truly important to them. As a result, they feel stressed, dissatisfied, lost and down in the dumps way too often.

For the Bhutanese, Buddhism is thickly woven throughout every aspect of their lives. From prayer flags atop razor sharp mountains to homes lathered in mystical designs, religious iconography makes itself known at every turn serving as a constant reminder of people’s core values, goals and priorities. It’s almost impossible to “go off track” and lose sight of what’s important. Rituals play an equally significant role in Bhutanese life. Meditation and seeking guidance from deities or monks are regular practices, helping people make focused decisions which are inline with their desired trajectory.

Lesson #2: whatever your source of bliss (family, philanthropy, religion, sport, business, academia, art and beyond), it should be championed by your lifestyle. Don’t let it take a back seat while you get distracted by stress and humdrum routines. Create daily rituals which preserve and inspire your dreams. Set up visual queues, which keep your priorities top of mind. Live and breathe your core values. Build your happy place.

#3: DO YOUR BEST TO HELP THE REST

The Bhutanese are one of the most compassionate, community-oriented races on earth. They’re acutely aware of suffering and actively help those facing hardship. Even a poor farmer with little to give will offer what he can to those in need. So it seems, brightening someone’s day offers the ultimate compensation – the “feel good factor”.

Beyond helping the distressed, the Bhutanese also avoid causing pain…even when it comes to animals. The only form of legal “hunting” is fishing, which is approved on a catch and release basis. All living creatures roam free without the fear of being killed for food, fun or fear. This anecdote about my guide demonstrates just how caring the Bhutanese can be…

One night, Ben and I were being attacked by some particularly aggressive mosquitoes. We started swatting them with our hands, hoping to terminate the little tykes. All the while, our guide sat calmly and did nothing. When we asked him why, he said he couldn’t intentionally kill a living creature as it would bring about bad karma. Plus, he didn’t mind sharing his blood with the mozzies, as they needed it to survive. Needless to say, we felt pretty guilty after that.

To sum things up, the Bhutanese believe every action inspires an equal reaction. When you act selfishly or cause harm to others, it’ll leave a bad taste in your mouth and come back to bite you. If you’re compassionate and generous, you can rest easy and trust that help will find you when you need it. Lesson #3: Helping others breeds happiness, inner peace and a sense of security.

#4 KEEP IT SIMPLE

From they day they’re born, the Bhutanese learn to find happiness in the simple life. Kids play with blades of grass, sticks or worn out rubber tires. If these things break or go missing, no worries. They’re free and easy to replace. Western children, who tend to prefer the latest techno-gadgets, are much more susceptible to stress, anger, envy and other negative emotions. What if my Playsation is older than yours? What if my iPad won’t connect to the internet? What if my iPhone smashes and my parents have to spend hundreds of dollars on a new one? Lesson #4: get back to basics and avoid unnecessary stress.

During my time at Tiger’s Nest Monastery, I had the opportunity to speak with a monk. He said it was a difficult path to take as a young boy because he didn’t have access to certain luxuries (e.g. TV) like other children. But, as time went on, his contentment surpassed his peers’, as they’s acquired the stresses of family, work, city and contemporary life. The monk, on the other hand, spent his days meditating and studying Buddhism in the company of nature. His life was simple, yet completely fulfilling.

I’m not saying the path of a devout Buddhist monk or nun is the only way to find happiness. The principle of omitting unnecessary stresses from your life and taking time to enjoy simple pleasures has merit. For me, baking a cake, reading a book and chatting to my mum bring me more smiles than my inbox. Yet, the latter gets a lot more of my time. It makes absolutely no sense.

#5 BE PATIENT & GOVERN FOR THE GOOD OF ALL

It’s hard to imagine a government which genuinely champions equality amongst its people, makes decisions for the good of all, and protects the environment. But, Bhutan’s leaders seem to be doing exactly that, achieving Gross National happiness along the way.

What’s they key to their success? They take things one step at a time. Acting in haste to keep up with the rest of the world is not Bhutan’s style. Until the 1960’s it had no roads, automobiles, telephone, postal system or electricity. Limited access to TV and the internet wasn’t enabled until 1999, once people had been taught how to manage the pros and cons of this technology (dinner in front of the telly with everyone absorbed in mobile phones doesn’t constitute family time in Bhutan).

This cautious country has been so patient with its decisions, it’s managed to skip the horrors of the Industrial Revolution and jump straight to the 21st century. With a strong focus on sustainability, it’s become the only “carbon sink” in the world; Bhutan actually creates more energy than it uses! Unlike most of Asia, its towns are in spit spot condition. Litter is scarce, electrical wires are hidden, buildings look immaculate, pollution is undetectable and operations run smoothly. Taking time to observe the experiences of other countries, Bhutan has been able to get things right for the good of its people and the environment.

While signs of democracy are steadily weaving their way into Bhutan, this transition isn’t being rushed either (Bhutan had its first general election in 2008). To ensure the divide between rich and poor doesn’t spiral out of control, the government is balancing the scales with an egalitarian approach. This can be seen in Bhutan’s management of tourism. It cost Ben and me $2500 as a couple to tour the country for a week. The majority of this tariff was absorbed by the government and distributed throughout the community (focusing on areas in need, e.g. regional housing development). This means, the entire country benefits from tourism, not just the operators.

Even the Royal Family is working hard support less affluent communities. Due to the small population of Bhutan (approx. 700,000), it’s able to keep its finger on the pulse and recognise those who are underprivileged. Heading a number of charities which ensure people’s basic needs are met (especially in remote communities), the royals (and NGOs) are careful not to go overboard. Their perspective? If the people are happy as they are, why try to change them and and inject dissatisfaction into their lives (i.e. a desire for more)?

Lesson #5: Think before you act; take your time considering the outcomes; and, make a decision which supports the well-being of all parties involved – there’s always a way. This will inspire loyalty, trust, unity and contentment amongst the community. This philosophy rings true when it comes to leading countries, families, interest groups and beyond.

CONCLUSION

After visiting Bhutan, I was in two minds. One one hand, I felt deeply saddened by the experience. It made me realise how much suffering, negativity, discord and inequality was being nurtured by other countries. Crossing the border from Bhutan straight into India was a shock to the system! On the flip side, Bhutan was proof that purity still existed in the world. I was surprised and delighted by this unassuming country, which genuinely felt like the happiest place on earth. Bhutan has so much to teach the world, I hope it marches to the beat of its own drum for many years to come.