REVIEW: BEGNAS LAKE RESORT

How would you describe it? Elegant, tranquil, picturesque, refreshing and impeccable.

Who’d love it? Couples and honeymooners, burnt-out corporates, creatives, and less budget-conscious hikers. It’s the perfect hideaway for those needing to recharge their batteries or enjoy a little privacy.

How were the rooms? They were perfectly plush, but in an understated way. Jumping into bed was like diving onto a soft, white marshmallow – sooooo comfy! The bathrooms were beautifully modern and spacious, with a free-standing bathtub awaiting lovers or weary-bodied travellers. The private balcony was the highlight for me – I was happy to ensconce myself in the outdoor reading chair and look out over Begnas Lake and the ice-capped Annapurna Mountains.

How was the food? Divine. It took a while to reach the table, but for good reason. The in-house chef obviously cared about the quality and presentation of his food. Everything that came out of the kitchen was delicious, hearty and vibrant. I especially loved the brioche style rolls and chocolate scrolls – I actually swore when I bit into them for the first time!

What was the vibe like? SO relaxing. Everything was just perfect. The grounds were masterfully manicured, the rooms were spacious and luxurious, the staff were attentive and friendly, the view was truly decadent…Begnas Lake Resort felt like heaven on earth. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of central Pokhara, it was seriously peaceful and revitalising.

How was the service? Pretty faultless. The smiley staff were always happy to help…even when it came to carting our hefty bags up the brutal, never-ending staircase leading to the main road.

What were the highlights? The location and the view. It really is the perfect place to get away from it all – stress, chaos, urban junk, pollution, unhealthy distractions, demanding people etc. Located around 20-minutes away from central Pokhara, you feel completely removed from the hustle and bustle. The resort rests on the back of a lush hill, which has its toes in Begnas Lake and its eyes on the Himalayas. The closeness to nature is hard to beat. When the heat of the day kicks in, its a perfect chance to unleash your inner child and jump into the lake.

What’s different about the place? You can either arrive like a royal by boat or like an adventurer by forest track. Both options are pretty cool. The canoe ride is an unforgettable experience, as Begnas Lake is a beautiful sight to behold (especially with the Annapurna Mountains in the background). The trek down the mighty cobblestone staircase is also picturesque, with dense greenery surrounding you from every angle…though the climb back up is a little brutal!

How would you rate the overall experience? 9 out of 10 chocolate scrolls.

Resort Details:
Sundari Danda, Begnas Lake, Pokhara, Nepal
Tel: (+977-61) 560030, 560070, 693304
Email (sales office): begnasresort@fewamail.com.np
www.begnaslakeresort.com

A FOOD ADVENTURE IN THAMEL (KATHMANDU)

Thamel is like Disneyland for hippies. Incense, hash, body art, daggy baggy clothes, vegan food, yoga classes, mountain gear, bejewelled bits ‘n’ bobs, more hash…it sells everything a travelling hobo could possibly desire in a teeny-tiny radius.

Indeed, it’s easy to lose yourself to Thamel and call the place Kathmandu. A labyrinth of narrow paths and miniature retailers, it’s gritty, weathered and blanketed by old-world charm. There are stores within stores – sideways, around the corner, down the back and six stories skyward – all begging for your tourist dollar.

Before you know it, you’re stuck in a blissful holiday routine: sleep, shop, eat, repeat. While your day-to-day business stays pretty much the same, the places you visit will undoubtedly change. There are so many wonderful restaurants to choose from, it’s possible to enjoy every lunch, dinner and snack session in a different hideaway. During my stay in Thamel, I did exactly that. Here are my favourite food finds; they won’t disappoint.

BEST VEGETARIAN
Where to go: OR2K, Mandala Street
Why it’s awesome: Apart from the huge, flavour-packed meals, OR2K really draws a crowd thanks to its unique ambience. Offering a social yet relaxed setting, it’s a place where you can slip off your shoes, chill out on giant pillows, share stories with other travellers and soak up the uber cool vibe.
What to try: The falafel if you’re on your own, or the OR2K Combo Platter between two. Both are delicious and great value.
Tasty tip: The meals are massive, so consider buying a light option or sharing a starter and a main between two people, especially if you’re on a tight budget. 

BEST SWEET TREATS
Where to go: Third Eye Bakery & Espresso Bar, Chaksibari Marg
Why it’s awesome: Their desserts are prettiest, most decadent treats in town. Unlike a lot of other bakeries in the area, which offer beige, beige and more beige, Third Eye presents an exciting range of vibrant, eclectic sweets.
What to try: Whatever takes your fancy. Everything is delicious.
Tasty tip: They sell a lot of their stock at half price towards the end of the day (just when dessert cravings kick in). 

BEST SANDWICHES
Where to go: Gourmet Bakery & Coffee Shop, Mandala Street
Why it’s awesome: The sandwiches are cheap, chunky and filled with saucy goodness.
What to try: Any of the large sandwiches. The bread is soft, light and moreishly good.
Tasty tip: If you’re not big on sauce or dressings, mention it to the staff before they start creating your carb feast. Otherwise, you’re in for a soggy sanga.

BEST NEPALESE FOOD
Where to go: Mahabir’s Centre for Nepal Connection, Mandala Street
Why it’s awesome: If you’re not from this part of the world, the local food menu is a wild guessing game – which is kind of exciting. Luckily, the staff are eager to talk you through the dishes and traditional techniques for eating them.
What to try: The Khaja Set. When in Nepal, try the local food…even if it sounds strange.
Tasty tip: Eat with your fingers if you order the Khaja Set. It’s a whole lot more fun, plus it’s how things are done. 

Where to go: La Bella Café, Chaksibari Marg Street
Why it’s awesome: It has a classy Italian vibe, which offers the perfect escape from the commercial, chaotic streets of Thamel.
What to try: The momos are divine. La Bella Cafe is the best place to gorge on Nepal’s most popular dish. Order the lemonade to go with your meal. It’s zingy, refreshing and perfectly sweet.
Tasty tip: Travel up to the second floor and sit as close to the street as you can. It’s a fantastic vantage point for people-watching.

BEST HEALTHY STUFF
Where to go: Green Organic Cafe, Chaksibari Marg
Why it’s awesome: The food is mind-blowing, healthy and creative. The “GOC” is hands down my favourite restaurant in Thamel.
What to try: You MUST try their signature dish, the Everest Victory Salad. The homemade noodles are delightful and the dressing is special by name and nature.
Tasty tip: Don’t get frustrated when the internet doesn’t seem to work. Take a pack of cards, read a book or – better yet – enjoy your meal!

BEST TEA & COFFEE
Where to go: Himalayan Java Coffee, Mandala Street
Why it’s awesome: Because it’s more refined and polished than many of the other rough ‘n’ tough coffee shops in the area. Plus, the staff go they extra mile. My chia tea came with crema on top. I’d never seen that before. Yum!
What to try: Your beverage of choice…plus a cookie.
Tasty tip: Bring your laptop. This funky-fresh hideaway is a perfect spot to host small meetings or get some travel research and work done.  

BEST CHEAP EATS
Where to go: Green Valley Café & Restaurant, Chaksibari Marg
Why it’s awesome: The staff are chatty, the locals love it, the food is flavoursome and your budget will thank you for it.
What to try: The momos and curries.
Tasty tip: The portions are as modest as the prices, so why not treat yourself to an entree?

BEST STREET FOOD
Where to go: A roving food vendor, most likely on the corner of Thamel Marg & Leknath Marg
Why it’s awesome: It’s a cheap, fast thrill … for your tastebuds.
What to try: The rice bubble cone thing. It looks like a kid’s wild food concoction, especially when a dozen mystery ingredients get mixed with it. But, it’ll kick start a rockin’ party in your mouth.
Tasty tip: If you can’t handle the heat, ask for the mild version.

DARJEELING: ONE BITE AT A TIME

Darjeeling is a popular holiday destination, coveted by domestic and international tourists alike. Known for its picturesque tea fields; sporadic views of Khangchendzonga, the world’s 3rd highest mountain; and original toy steam train, this quaint village is certainly one for the bucket list. The crisp climate and fresh air offer respite from sea level India. The festive energy keeps you spellbound for days.

While I certainly came to Darjeeling for a change of scenery and the world-renowned sites, they’re not what blew me away. It was the food. A crazy cocktail of Indian, Chinese, Tibetan, Nepalese and European influences, the food was both thrilling and delectable. From the melt-in-the-mouth pastries dished out in dingy back streets to the high tea sessions in luxury lounges, the ultimate gastronomic adventure awaits food lovers in Darjeeling. If you’re up for the challenge, here’s how to tackle this town, one bite at a time…

BREAKFAST

Like many Western ladies, I struggle with the idea of a solid, savoury breakfast. My body craves a sweet kick or lean ‘n’ clean proteins. But I couldn’t come to India and not give the local brekky cuisine a try.

Aanchal’s Big Bite was the restaurant I chose for my morning of experimentation. Recommended by Lonely Planet, it offers both local and Western fare. After showing my Google print screens to the friendly waiter, he was able to match my Indian food porn to the menu and kick the kitchen into action.

  

My hubby and I feasted on Idli, Masala Dosa and Uttapam. The Idli was like biting into soft, white, fluffy pillows of goodness. While they were quite flavourless on their own, smothered in curry they really hit the spot. They’re also partially fermented to aid digestion. The Masala Dosa and Uttapam were even tastier, enhanced beautifully by a side of coconut chutney and tiffin sambar (a light, spicy stew).

While our tastebuds were initially confused by the whack of spice so early in the morning, they quickly fell in love with the flavours. Plus, our bodies felt like they had energy to take on the day. Suddenly, Indian breakfasts made a whole lot of sense.

MORNING TEA

Chowk Bazaar was, hands down, my favourite part of Darjeeling. I felt like a kid in a candy store…so many crazy shapes, pretty colours and tantalising smells. My mouth wouldn’t stop watering. I could’ve spent days exploring that little pocket of the world, bite by bite.

Sometimes, there are things worth getting sick and softer around the edges for – the street food of Chowk Bazaar is it. I’m not saying you’re guaranteed to get food poisoning; I came out the other side feeling fine and dandy. Just keep your eyes on the finished product, not the kitchens, and dive into the unknown.

  

So, what should you try? As much as possible. Everything you can’t access back home. Anything you wouldn’t normally touch. You are guaranteed to discover a new favourite food. I did, ten times over.

Based on the recommendation of a lovely local, Ben and I tucked into these edible soup bowl thingies called Gol Gappa. At first, they weirded me out because the liquid was cold. But then the spice kicked in along with the moreish crunch of the puri. They were bite-sized bowls of heaven.

Of course, you can’t go past the homemade samosas, pakoras, and dry snacks (spiced nuts, lentils and pulses etc.). You’ll undoubtedly groan “Oh my God!” with every mouthful. But, if you happen to encounter something unpalatable, chuck it and don’t stress. The food is so cheap, it won’t burn a hole in your travel wallet.

  

LUNCH

When it comes to travel, the most fulfilling moments are enjoyed off the beaten track. Thanks to the help of our savvy guide from Samsara Tours, Travels & Treks, we were able to experience one of Darjeeling’s best kept dining secrets. Chok Restaurant is difficult to find on Google, let alone by foot. Quietly nestled in an alleyway…off a backstreet…around the corner from the main thoroughfare…it’s reputation is all the advertising it needs.

Chok Restaurant is a cauldron of momo magic. I’m talking the best, most delectable momos in town. As you chow down on Darjeeling’s favourite dish, prepare to be hypnotised by the kitchen theatre. The cooks knead, stuff, fold and pinch doughs like pros.

  

AFTERNOON TEA

It’s not the Ritz but it certainly whisks you away to a land of luxury. The Elgin Hotel is renowned for its high tea, an experience which mainly satisfies due to the glorious environment in which it’s served. The regal interior, perfectly manicured flower beds, fluffy bear-dogs, stunning views and sun-kissed courtyard feel completely removed from the hustle and bustle of the streets. While the high tea itself leaves a lot to be desired, the experience offers a unique perspective of Darjeeling for a fair price.

  

DINNER

As the sun sets on another day, it’s time to head to the Town Square. Hundreds of tourists and locals descend on this hot spot, eager to meet up with loved ones or get amongst the community. People-watchers and ravenous monkeys line the rim while roving vendors and action-seekers take centre stage. If you trace your way around the perimeter of the square, you’ll eventually stumble across the start line of your street food adventure.

As you enter the alleyway, you’ll encounter a local lass who makes a mean chow mein (among other things). Served in a dried leaf bowl, the portion leaves you feeling positively stuffed for a measly $2USD. If a light nighttime snack is more your style, hit up one of the many stalls which sell Kachori, Samosas and Pakoras. Served with a drizzle of chilli sauce, they’re perfect for those who want to grab ‘n’ explore.

  

DESSERT

In my mind, there are two great options here. The first involves visiting a traditional Indian sweet shop during the day and stashing the goods away for later. My favourite was a blink-n-miss-it store called Unique Sweets & Snacks. My eyes grew to the size of saucers when they saw the display cabinets. Everything looked so luscious, beautiful and exotic. I could hardly believe it when my box of goodies came to $3USD. My favourite sweet was the yellow wheel thingy, called Jalebi. I actually swore when I first bit into this piece of pure decadence. It instantly became one of new favourite foods.

    

If you’d like somewhere to chill while you enjoy a nightcap, Glenary’s Bakery & Cafe is your best bet (it stays open until around 8pm). While this tourist hub seems to attract all of the Westerners in town, it’s also a local icon…and I can understand why. The pastries, chocolates, cakes and baked goods are all beautifully made and, for many of the tourists, the menu is reminiscent of home. It’s also the best place in town to grab a coffee ‘n’ cake, ensconce yourself in a whicker chair, soak up the classy vibe, and tuck into a good book. But, at the end of the day, the Indian sweet shops offer tastier treats at a better price.

TEA TIME

Of course, this epic feast should be washed down with copious amounts of tea; it’s Darjeeling after all! Chai tea, green tea, black tea, white tea…there’s something tickle anyone’s tea fancy. Of course, no trip to Darjeeling is complete until you’ve visited the Happy Valley Tea Estate, where you can pluck leaves with the locals, explore the tea factory and sample the final product before it’s shipped off to Harrods.

  

Enjoying the Simple Life in the Cameron Highlands

The Cameron Highlands is a place where you can have a holiday from your holiday. Nestled amongst the mountains in the mid-north of Malaysia, this picturesque destination offers a true escape from the hustle and bustle of Kuala Lumpur and the heat of the lowlands. The air is fresh, the land is lush, the atmosphere is calm and the clouds dance around you like you’re in heaven.

During our time in the Cameron Highlands, we stayed at Gerard’s Place in the quaint little town of Tanah Rata. Like many of the hotels in the area, the aesthetic has a quirky Dutch flavour to it. But Gerard’s is special – a true home away from home.

The family who run the boutique hotel (Gerard, Jay and their son Joshua) are newfound friends. They took care of Ben and me like we were part of their own brood, breaking roti with us, getting us involved in their hobbies (i.e. Land Rovers – Ben was very impressed), sharing local insights with us and helping us in any way they could. Running the guesthouse is not just a business for these guys, it’s their lives, their source of bliss, and a joint venture which brings their family together.

During our time in the Cameron Highlands, we realised there really is something in country living or “the simple life”. Here, everyone knows and looks out for each other; kids can walk themselves home from school safely; the cost of living is low and there’s an abundance of fresh food being grown by the surrounding farms.

Many of the locals view life in the big smoke (i.e. Kuala Lumpur) as completely undesirable. The cost of living is much higher, the workforce is highly competitive, the streets are hectic and the sense of “community” is simply not the same. Big city equals stress city.

Having visited both major hubs and rural towns throughout Malaysia, we can definitely say we felt happier chilling out in the country. In the Cameron Highlands, Ben and I were completely at ease. There wasn’t an overwhelming variety of things to get up to which was actually quite nice. It was a case of: eat – walk – visit farm – sleep – repeat. Literally, that’s what we did for three days, and here are our “simple life” highlights:

1. HAVING LOCAL TEA & SCONES IN A TEA HOUSE: We visited the Cameron Bharat Tea Plantation. While the scones weren’t something to write home about, the tea was beautifully simple in flavour and the views were to die for. Looking out at the sea of green, we couldn’t help but get amongst it and check out the tea plantations up close. There are a number of tracks around, so you can wander to your heart’s content.

2. FEASTING ON A STEAMBOAT: Quite simply, it’s the local must-have dish. “May Flower Restaurant” serves up the best in town and the owner, a man who looks like Mr Miyagi, is a fun character to chat to (he’ll gladly rub your food baby once you’re done). Ben swears Steamboat is the best thing he’s eaten throughout our trip so far. The ingredients were fresh and clean yet seriously flavour packed. Make sure you have an empty stomach before you tuck in. The serving size is seriously generous!

3. VISITING A STRAWBERRY FARM: We hit up the Big Red Strawberry Farm, which came highly recommended by Jay from Gerard’s Guesthouse. The strawberries were an impossible red and practically every one of them looked like something out of fiction. And then there was the taste – OMG! We took up the offer of plucking our own strawberries, which was a lovely experience. We also couldn’t leave without trying a popular dish from the cafe menu – fried strawberry ice-cream. If only they served it like this in the Chinese restaurants back home in Oz!

4. TACKLING A WALKING TRACK: The Cameron Highlands is home to many great walks, some more thigh-n-butt-busting than others. We chose Track 10, which offered a decent workout plus an epic view and it was relatively quick to complete (approx. 2 hour return trip). The track itself was wonderfully diverse. One minute, we were surrounded by narrow ochre walls in a clay-like substance. The next minute we were lost in an enchanted overgrown forest with mossy spaghetti roots bursting out from everywhere. When we finally reached the summit, the clouds had decided to join us – we could practically reach out and touch them. While this was the perfect track for us, do your research, ask around and pick the one that’s right for you.

5. GOING ON A LAND ROVER ADVENTURE: We’re pretty sure the Cameron Highlands has the highest concentration of Land Rovers in the world. But they’re not the brand spanking new, state-of-the-art kind. They’re serious working vehicles and we’ve been told they come to the Highlands to live out their last days.

We spent a day in the life of a Landy-loving local farmer and had the time of our lives. The journey to and from the worksite was a real head-bumping, gear-grinding adventure – yep, this is what Land Rovers are made for. Once we finally reached the farmlands, our eyes lit up and grew to the size of saucers. Every inch of the rolling hills was covered in the most glorious looking fruit and vegetables we’d seen in our lives. We just wanted to dive into it – mouths open!

All-in-all, Ben and I loved our time in the Cameron Highlands. We can understand why it’s a popular holiday destination amongst Malaysian and Chinese city-slickers. There’s the perfect amount of activity and buzz about; but, ultimately, it’s a place where you can relax, take in some fresh air and spend some time with nature. Bliss.