THE MANY FACES OF MUMBAI

Mumbai (a.k.a. Bombay) is a city of wild and wonderful extremes. Sustaining over 20 million residents, India’s most populous city is home to dreamers, hard-labourers, actors, gangsters, artists, servants, fisher folk, millionaires and everything in between. It’s the glittering epicentre of Bollywood, the world’s most prolific film industry, and it proudly possesses some of the world’s most expensive real estate. Yet, Mumbai is also renowned for its mammoth slums and ultra-gritty markets. So it seems, this eclectic city captures all of the beauty and ugliness of the human condition. But, that’s exactly what makes it so captivating. Here are some of the things I love most about Mumbai – the good, the great and the ugly.

BOLLYWOOD

Churning out over 900 films a year, Bollywood is the global goliath of the movie world. When visiting Mumbai, the heart of India’s film industry, it’s sacrilegious not to see a Bollywood flick. I convinced Ben to see ABCD2, which was like Step Up on steroids. Despite having zero understanding of Hindi, I figured dance was an international language we’d be able to make sense of. Indeed, I was instantly entranced by Bollywood’s winning escapist formula, as all-singing, all-dancing lovers fought to conquer the forces keeping them apart.

During our night at the movies, Ben and I discovered Indian cinemas played the national anthem before each screening – how patriotic! We also heard Bollywood studios often scouted Western extras to star in their films and add a whiff of international flair. Unfortunately, we missed out on our ten minutes of fame. Bollywood stars, on the other hand, seemed to have God-like status throughout Mumbai and all of India.

FASHION

Just like in Hollywood, where an intense celebrity culture is coupled with fashion fanatics, Mumbai is both the movie star and fashion capital of India. From the mountains of sparkly accessories at the Bandra street markets to the couture boutiques which line the streets of Juhu, it’s a bit overwhelming. But, once you get the hang of haggling and sorting the chintz from the special stuff, shopping becomes an entertaining tourist experience. I chose to escape the crowds and play dress ups at Bandhej in the Grand Hyatt Plaza. While in India, I couldn’t miss out on the chance to wear some traditional clothing, which I’d never be able to get on without the help of a local! Before long, I was happily drowning in a rainbow of colour. Indian women sure know how to stand out. No matter which region or caste they’re from, they all seem to put serious effort into their style, from the ornate jewellery and striking make-up they wear, to the perfectly layered clothing and coordinated shoes adorning their bodies. Indian women are the ultimate “glamourzons” – especially in Mumbai.

MARKETS

Before reaching Mumbai, I had visions of people being packed into the place like sardines. Ben and I feared it would be a nightmare to navigate, especially considering we were driving our own car. While India’s biggest city certainly has an element of overcrowded madness, there’s a fast-paced rhythm to the place which seems to keep things moving like a perfectly choreographed dance. The locals know the steps and it doesn’t take long for tourists to get the swing of things.

Nowhere is Mumbai’s organised chaos more apparent than at the markets. While Chow Bazaar (a.k.a. the Thieves Market) is a popular shopping haunt, especially amongst those seeking antiques and furniture, my top pick is the Crawford Market. It’s the ultimate tourist theatre, with locals and vendors haggling their way towards high-action melodrama while stray animals form sneaky side plots. It’s fascinating viewing, but you should also become part of the production!

If peace and quiet are what you seek, you’ll need to wander past the pet arena through to the meat market. Be warned – it’s strictly for the brave (hence the less hectic vibe). The lack of hygiene is wildly shocking and grabs you by the guts – I’d never seen anything like it before. But, while the viewing is tough, the workers are super friendly. Be sure to strike up a conversation with them, as their life stories are fascinating. Their kids play cricket around the corner. It’s worth wading through the mountains of rotting garbage to join them for a match – Mumbai-style.

SLUMS

Shantytowns and slums are very much a part of Mumbai city life, with over 60% of the population calling them home. To really get under the skin of India’s biggest city, it’s important to witness this part of the local culture. Ben and I ventured to Dharavi, Asia’s biggest and Mumbia’s most renowned slum. Thanks to Hollywood’s interpretation of street life in Slumdog Millionaire, Dharavi turned out to be a lot friendlier and grittier than I expected. While I’m sure there are some dodgy dealings in this part of town, I felt completely safe exploring the dusty alleyways and busy thoroughfares. The locals turned into shy gigglepots whenever we asked to take their photos – they were delightful and never asked for money in return. Their houses were cleverly built from a resourceful mix of materials, including corrugated iron, garbage and concrete. Surprisingly, most were kitted out with kitchens and electricity.

On the flip side, where Hollywood tends to make even the foulest conditions look picturesque, Dharavi was pretty darn dingy. It was like a city, within a city – a far cry from the lavish lanes of Mumbai’s affluent peninsular situated merely a hop, skip and jump away. The sewer-lined streets were shrouded in gut-wrenching aromas, from rotting garbage to human excrement. The waterways were a bubbling grey-green colour I’d never seen before. It was a complete assault to the senses. Yet, many families (including young adults with white collar jobs), had happily lived here for generations. While Dharavi seems shambled at first glance, there’s obviously a strong sense of community and habitual way of life which offers a compelling living environment.

PLUSH PROPERTIES

In a country where 30% of people live below the poverty line, Mumbai is a beacon of unabashed opulence. Amongst the shantytowns and slums are pockets of elegance filled with fantastical architecture. The affluent southern tip of Mumbai’s peninsular is home to the world’s most expensive private property – Antilia. Valued at $1 billion USD, it’s maintained by a staff of 600 and enjoyed by not a single soul. Owned by India’s wealthiest man, business magnate Mukesh Ambani, it’s rumoured his wife didn’t agree with the property’s feng shui and refused to reside within its stately walls. Built on a block which was formerly occupied by an orphanage, many of the locals see Antilia as a big middle finger. Whether or not the gossip is true or justified, this state-of-the-art skyscaper is still worth a peak.

The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is another example of Mumbai’s lavish side, presenting a fairytale blend of Islamic and Renaissance architectural styles. This sumptuous hotel is a popular respite destination amongst the international elite. If you can’t afford to live like royalty for a night or experience one of the Taj’s fine-dining restaurants, it’s still worth taking a look inside and pretending like you own the place. Alternatively, you can enjoy a gentle stroll (or horse-drawn carriage ride) around its perfect perimeter. The public square, which sits next to the hotel and hugs the Mumbai Harbour, has become a favourite gathering spot amongst locals and tourists alike. It’s also home to the Gateway of India, a bold basalt arch of colonial triumph, which further enhances the grandeur of this palatial precinct.

WORLD-CLASS DINING

Mumbai offers a gastronomical adventure like nowhere else in India. Due to the well-moneyed and cosmopolitan crowds which flock to this high-energy city, the cuisine on offer is truly mind-blowing. My two favourite food experiences were at Social Offline and the Grand Hyatt Hotel. The latter took my stomach on a glorious round-the-world trip from Italy, China, Japan and Thailand all the way back to India. It’s worth sleeping over for a few nights, just so you can sample your way through the Grand Hyatt’s many restaurants and some of the best food Mumbai has to offer. From the thin-crust pizzas which dissipate in your mouth to the impossibly tender peking duck which delights your soul, it’s little wonder this hotel attracts movers and shakers from Mumbai and beyond.

Ben and I stumbled across Social Offline while we were exploring the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Too cheap to splurge on a five-star lunch, we looked to one of the surrounding restaurants for a feed. What we discovered at the highly affordable Social Offline knocked our socks off. The fusion of British and Indian recipes delivered an unexpected thrill to our tastebuds, from the lightly spiced and perfectly battered fish ‘n’ chips Ben devoured to the melt-in-the-mouth pastry which cuddled my curried vegetable pie. If only we’d had room to try the Chocolate Blood Bath with brownie, truffle and fudge. So it seemed, when world-class international and Indian chefs came together, the menus were magic.

CONCLUSION

If you thought Mumbai was merely a grimy, over-crowded city, think again. Its many facets will surprise and delight you, whisking you between worlds of divine grandeur and hypnotically raw street life. Mumbai, with all of it’s complex and contrasting layers, offers a well-rounded glimpse into Indian culture, aspirations, challenges and ideals. It’s unquestionably a must-visit if you plan to explore India.

BEWITCHED BY HAMPI

Before arriving in India, Hampi had been on my bucket list for a while…but, I couldn’t tell you why. For some unknown reason, it was one of the few places I could name in India. Perhaps I’d heard wonderful whispers about Hampi without really taking them in. While I knew I wanted to visit this mysterious place, I didn’t have a clue what made it special. So, as Ben and I approached this tourist Mecca, I tucked into some research. Here are a few insights which caught my attention:

• Hampi, which means “champion”, is located within the infamous ruins of Vijayanagara, the former capital of the Vijayanagara Empire.
• The ruins are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• Hampi formed one of the core areas of the Vijayanagara Empire from 1343 to 1565. It was chosen because of its strategic location, bounded by the torrential Tungabhadra River on one side and surrounded by defensible hills on its other three sides.
• Hampi continues to be a significant historical, architectural and religious site. It’s home to many notable Hindu temples, some of which are still active places of worship.
• The extant monuments of Vijayanagara (or Hampi) can be divided into Religious, Civil and Military buildings.
• While most of the monuments in Hampi are from the Vijayanagara period, a small proportion have been assigned to pre-Vijayanagara times. The first historical settlements in Hampi date back to 1CE!

While these insights were certainly fascinating, it wasn’t until Ben and I arrived in Hampi that we understood why it was a major pit stop on the traveller circuit. We were spellbound from the moment we laid eyes on the mars-like landscape. It was so different to anything we’d seen before – a sea of giant boulders perched precariously over miles of undulated terrain, their rusty hues offset by zesty green palm groves, banana plantations and paddy fields. A perfect azure sky, peppered with fluffy white Simpson’s clouds, enhanced the epic atmosphere. The forlorn ruins seemed scattered across Hampi’s dramatic scenery, their former beauty still glimmering through the harsh destruction of time.

Before long, Ben and I had lost ourselves to the ancient relics. With only a half day available to explore Hampi, we stuck to the area’s main attractions, including the Vittala Temple and its iconic stone chariot, market corridors and musical pillars. Wandering through the mammoth temple entrance, we were transported to a bygone era. It’s ornate walls oozed secrets from the past – the architecture was mesmerising.

As Ben and I wrapped up our time in Hampi and started our journey to Goa, we watched the legendary landscape fly past our car windows in distracted silence. It was amazing to see how millions of years of volcanic activity and erosion could result in a beautifully bewitching backdrop. If only we’d had time to linger a little longer.

REVIEW: RADISSON KHAJURAHO

How would you describe it? Sophisticated, hospitable, majestic, peaceful, pure comfort.

Who’d love it? Off the beaten track travellers looking for a tranquil and luxurious place to “feel human again”.

How were the rooms? They were perfectly comfortable, offering the right mix of fresh cleanliness and cosiness. Both Ben and I had a great night’s sleep – the rooms helped revive us, body and soul.

How was the food? The breakfast buffet offered everything Ben and I had been craving after a few weeks in India: cook-to-order eggs, savoury sides (bacon…omnomnomnom!), fluffy pancakes, sweet pastries, fruit salad and beyond. There were also a lot of beautifully prepared local dishes on offer. The lunch and dinner menus were a bit on the pricey side, so we enjoyed a couple of meals in town (just around the corner from the Radisson). However, when we were too exhausted to take on the tout zone, the hotel restaurant provided a peaceful place to enjoy a lovely meal.

What was the vibe like? For a big hotel, it felt incredibly intimate. We were treated like well-known celebrities, not just another couple of customers. It was delightful.

How was the service? The best I’ve experienced in India. Staying at the Radisson took me back in time, to a beautiful placed shrouded in old-world charm, romance and elegance. Thanks to the staff and the atmosphere they created, we didn’t have a care in the world. They were incredibly intuitive, fulfilling our needs before we even knew they existed and going above and beyond at every possible opportunity. For example, when I asked for a wi-fi login card, they delivered it to me along with a spare for Ben knowing that he’d eventually want one too. When I ordered a glass of ice, they brought one up along with an ice bucket in case I needed a top up. When Ben realised it was the night of the UEFA Champions League Final, they set up the bar TV for him so he could enjoy the game well after operating hours. The hotel manager also offered to look at our India map and talk us through the best routes, attractions and destinations.

What were the highlights? Apart from the impeccable service, the ground were pretty special. Thanks to the grand pool and perfectly manicured grounds, the Radisson looked like an oasis in the middle of the dessert.

What’s different about the place? The sweeping marble staircase leading to the rooms was a spectacular sight. I also liked how the Radisson offered extra facilities to keep us entertained during our stay e.g. free pool table and magazine library.

How would you rate the overall experience? 8.5 out of 10 spiral staircases.

Resort Details:
By Pass Road, Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, India
Tel: 076862 72777
http://www.radisson.com/khajuraho-hotel-in/indkhaj

WHY YOU’LL LOVE VARANASI (IN PHOTOS)

Brace yourself! You’re senses are about to be assaulted and ignited like never before. That’s the advice I received before venturing into the brilliant beast that is Varanasi. Indeed, it was pretty bang on.

My week in “India’s spiritual capital” hit me like a psychedelic acid trip. It was a mind-blowing experience for better and for worse. The aroma was a melange of sun-baked urine, fresh human ashes, cow poop, and freshly fried pastries. My eyes were blinded by the chaotic sea of vibrant colour and constant cloud of dust. The sound of strangled tuk-tuk horns and melodic flute music filled the air from dawn til dusk. My personal space was robbed of me, as curious kids, friendly locals and assertive touts fought for my hand and got up in my grill.

Yep. I can safely say Varanasi isn’t for the faint-hearted. But, if you can persevere, this magical place will shock, move and change you to the point where it might very well become your favourite place in India. Whether you end up hating or loving your time here, it will long live in your memory. Here are some of my fondest recollections from Varanasi…

As if this place wasn’t colourful enough, with all of the vibrant saris, fruit stands and riverboats floating about, the street art and graffiti graphics inject another level of vibrancy and playfulness into Varanasi. Where there is spirituality, there is inevitably artistic expression. So, it’s little wander that the “beating heart” of the Hindu universe is liberally embellished with public art. 

Varanasi is unapologetically indiscreet. The locals’ daily lives and most intimate moments are carried out in the public eye, from bathing sessions and “bathroom” stops to spiritual ceremonies, weddings and cremations. The theatre of it all is both confronting and thrilling. 

Varanasi is a place where rural life and the urban world collide. The animals, particularly the cows and buffalo, rule the roads – and they know it. These courageous creatures seem completely at ease amongst the ferocious tidal wave of inner-city traffic. They have not a care in the world beyond their next bathing session or bite of food. Indeed, the animals seem to have their own exclusive section in the Ganges – there’s no better way to freshen up and escape the heat. Less comedic is the experience of watching the animals dive into mountains of rubbish for their next meal. A plate of plastic with a side of rotting chicken offcuts anyone?

“I love the night life,” and so do the people of Varanasi. As the sun says goodbye to another day, the spiritual capital of India comes out to play. The narrow streets are positively heaving with people by dusk and the action kicks on well into the night. Dashaswamedh Ghat and its neighbouring river space seem to form the main meeting point, as locals and tourists watch the nightly Aarti Ceremony and then descend on the markets. It’s a magical spectacle and true mayhem.

Thanks to the highly persistent and commonplace touts, it’s easy to get the wrong idea about the locals. But, let me assure you, they are delightful. Once they realise you’re 100% not keen to purchase anything, many switch from being relentless business people to being inquisitive and informative friends. They’re passionate about their city and they want it to get under your skin, too. I was guided to the Nepalese Temple, a popular tourist attraction, by a complete random and was pleasantly surprised when he didn’t ask for money – then again, maybe I just got lucky. As keen as the locals are to make a buck, a jovial wave, enlightening chat and strong hand shake are always at the ready. 

The architecture in Varanasi is truly enchanting. Every wall tells a story and has character. From the incredibly ornate temples and labyrinth of old-world laneways to the weathered cement homes and dingy hole-in-the-wall shops, this visually eclectic city leaves you in a state of childlike wander. Prepare to get lost – enjoy the detour!

Varanasi oozes spirituality like nowhere else on earth. From the dusty outskirts and windy back roads all the way to the sacred temples and ghats by the Ganges, it’s a colossal petrie dish of spiritual life. Hindu pilgrims visit the sacred waters to wash away a lifetime of sins. The popular temples have queues a mile long, with devotees eager to place their divine offerings. Many also visit Vanarasi to cremate their loved ones in the Burning Ghats. It’s seen as a particularly auspicious place to die as expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death). It’s little wonder Varanasi is considered to be one of India’s holiest cities. 

Varanasi wouldn’t be the same if it wasn’t nestled beside the Ganges. Perhaps the world’s holiest and well-known river, it conjures images of ever day life, death, festivals, playtime, community, filth and fertility – all of it shrouded in spirituality. The point where Varanasi meets the River Ganges is the ultimate nexus of these themes. It’s alive and well-used. It’s the heart and soul of Varanasi – especially at sunrise and sunset. 

Varanasi takes no prisoners. It can be a brutal experience, even for veteran travellers, but it’s also guaranteed to be mind-blowing. I encountered so many absurd and challenging moments during my time here, from seeing a man with a monkey on a stick to acquiring severe food poisoning from a blatantly unhygienic street food stall (I really should’ve said no to the samosa – but it smelt so good!). Yet, I came out the other side having fallen in love with the place. It might be rough but it sure has personality.

SHOULD I STILL TRAVEL TO NEPAL?

A couple of months ago, there was seemingly no better place for adventure than Nepal. However, in light of the recent earthquakes, many travellers have placed this bucket list destination in the “too dangerous” bin.

Having felt the first major quake on route to Nepal, I certainly considered doing a U-turn and ditching my dreams of exploring the mighty Himalayas. The Nepal I saw on the news looked terrifying, chaotic and devastated. A number of nervous thoughts started running through my head. Does Nepal even want tourists at the moment? Would I be causing a strain on resources, which are desperately needed by the locals? Would there be more earthquakes? Would I become a missing face on the news back home and create hell for my loved ones?

I suddenly remembered what it was like living in Queensland (Australia) when Cyclone Yasi hit. Millions of people around the world were bombarded with images that made the entire Sunshine State look like a war zone. The message? Queensland was closed to holiday-goers indefinitely. Don’t bother visiting anytime soon.

The reality on the ground was very different. Don’t get me wrong; there were several towns which had been severely affected by the cyclone. What the international community didn’t see were the many beautiful destinations that were alive and well. The result? All of Queensland (and, even, Australia) suffered the effects of a hard hit tourism industry, one of the main arteries supporting the economy. It took years for tourists numbers to get back to normal.

Then I thought about Nepal. After a few in-depth discussions with my husband, Ben and I decided to push on with our plans, see the situation for ourselves and inject some tourism dollars into the country. So, we packed our Land Rover with extra resources (food, water, petrol, and a tent) and called ahead to make sure we were welcome. The operators we spoke to all said the same thing, “Please come, we need you!”. And so our Nepal adventure began. Here’s what we experienced during our 30-day Himalayan holiday – sights, highlights, hiccups and all.

KATHMANDU

As we drove into Kathmandu, there was no denying the capital had been hit hard by earthquakes. Mammoth buildings had crumbled like concertina paper houses…I started to think we’d made the wrong decision. But then we reached Thamel.

While surrounding suburbs showed signs of damage, Thamel seemed frozen in time – a happier time. This tourist Mecca and world-renowned hippie hub was buzzing with travellers, life, and old-world charm. Before Ben and I knew it, we’d lost ourselves to the laneways and restaurants for over a week – there certainly wasn’t a shortage of food and fun! We absolutely loved the place.

During our time in Thamel, the second major quake shook Kathmandu. Based on local advice, we’d opted for a modern hotel with an open courtyard and pre-planned our emergency exit route just to be safe. While the experience was a little nerve-racking, we felt comfortable enough to stick around and continue with our plans.

POKHARA & BEGNAS LAKE

Following the footsteps of many hiking enthusiasts before us, we travelled to Pokhara in preparation for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek. While the town’s infrastructure seemed relatively unscathed by earthquake damage, tourist numbers were definitely down.

The funky pockets of Lakeside and Oldtown, once heaving with international visitors, had become tranquil urban sanctuaries. On the plus side, Ben and I were able to enjoy massages and meals on a whim – no bookings required. Staying at the luxurious Begnas Lake Resort, we had the entire place to ourselves and more support staff than we knew what to do with. While it wasn’t what we expected, the experience worked out for the best. Ben and I found the peace and quiet we needed to truly unwind.

ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TRACK

When my husband first suggested tackling the 9-day trek to Annapurna Base Camp, I was a bit nervous. I had visions of us being taken out by landslides and avalanches triggered by earthquake tremors. So, we chose to travel with a veteran guide from InterTours who knew the mountains like the back of his hand. He assured us the track would be safe as long as we followed his lead and took precautions along the way.

Throughout our journey, we witnesses very little damage to villages and the mountains. We were encouraged to walk quickly through landslide and avalanche prone areas (which were rare and had posed a potential threat for many years), just to be safe. Thanks to our savvy and supportive guide, Ben and I enjoyed the adventure-of-a-life-time on the Annapurna Track. It was one of the most physically challenging and visually epic things we’d ever experienced. If it’s on your Bucket List, keep it there!

CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK

Chitwan was our big surprise and delight moment of the trip. Not knowing much about the area, we didn’t expect close encounters with rhinos, river baths with elephants, walks through wildlife-rich jungles, and romantic sunrise canoe rides. But that’s exactly what we got, and then some! Chitwan National Park was incredible and there were no signs of physical damage to reserve post-quake. It was teeming with cool creatures, many I’d never seen out of captivity before. The safaris were stuff of dreams and I’ll never forget them – they need to be on your itinerary if you’re planning to visit Nepal.

 

So there you have it. Nepal is still a place you should visit in the near future, just be safe and savvy while travelling around this stunning part of the world. Source local intelligence, take precautions and be smart about things.

While remote villages with significant earthquake damage will take time to recover, the main tourists hubs have more than enough resources to support locals as well as visitors. Many of the major draw cards tempting travellers to Nepal are still open for business – operators are eager and able to offer wonderful travel experiences.

If you find yourself in the heart of the Himalayas anytime soon, share your experiences through blogs, social media and beyond. Help Nepal get its positive news stories out to rest the world. There are many of them just begging to be told. 

REVIEW: TIGERLAND SAFARI RESORT

How would you describe it? Welcoming, spacious, understated, relaxing and natural.

Who’d love it? Families, couples, seniors, and wildlife lovers (especially bird watchers).

How were the rooms? Not flashy but perfectly comfortable and pleasant. The private balconies provided the perfect chill out zone, while the air-con was heaven in the midday heat. I enjoyed falling asleep to the sound of Chitwan’s nocturnal wildlife with a good book in hand, as there wasn’t any TV in the room.

How was the food? The Western-style food left a little to be desired, but the Nepalese cuisine was absolutely delectable. I also adored the lemon sodas, which were completely moreish in the hot weather.

What was the vibe like? Tigerland Safari Resort offers true escapism, threading the safari theme throughout much of its design. I loved the bamboo décor, giant rope swings and tranquil viewing hides, which looked out over the national park. There’s a calm magic about the place which is truly wonderful. If you like a bit of buzz and the company of fellow travellers, visit Tigerland Safari Resort during peak season (Oct-March). If you prefer peace and quiet, and the feeling of having a place to yourself, you will certainly get it during low season (April-Sept).

How was the service? The staff were attentive, smiley and pretty impeccable in terms of their service. You know the staff are particularly awesome when you befriend them enough to connect on Facebook. I loved the addition of the welcome drink and aromatic chilled face cloths – it’s like they’d read my mind.

What were the highlights? It’s all about the guided safari tours through Chitwan National Park. While Tigerland Safari Resort offers walking tours and Jeep adventures, its major drawcard is the elephant safaris and bathing sessions. They offer an unforgettable opportunity to get close to nature. The experience of riding an elephant bareback and scrubbing the dirt off its leathery skin in the river is a childhood dream come true.

What’s different about the place? The food was all pre-arranged and arrived like clock work, so I didn’t need to dillydally my way through a menu. It was nice to lose control and go with the flow.

How would you rate the overall experience? 7.5 out of 10 lemon sodas.

Resort Details:
Chitwan National Park, Jagatpur, Chitwan, Nepal
Email: info@tigerlandsafari.com.np
www.tigerlandsafari.com.np

ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP: A HIGH ALTITUDE ADVENTURE

Where there’s risk, there’s adventure. Will the experience be as good as you’d hoped? Will your body get you to the finish line? Will your spirit crumble under the pressure? Will Mother Nature decide it’s not your lucky day? Or, will you triumph in the face of these challenges, discover what you’re made of and enjoy the experience of a lifetime?

If you choose to tackle the world-renowned trek to Annapurna Base Camp, you’ll undoubtedly ask yourself these questions along the way…especially in light of the recent earthquakes. Having thrown caution to the wind and hiked my way to the Himalayan heavens, I’d like to share my brutal and unforgettably brilliant experience of the Annapurna Track.

MEET THE TEAM

Here’s the thing. I’m the kind of girl who’d rather watch movies from the comfort of a plush hotel bed than climb mountains. But, every now and then, spontaneity grabs hold of me and I leap into something stupidly epic…without training…or any knowledge of what I’m getting into. So, it’s hardly surprising that, while holidaying in Nepal, I eventually found myself signing up for the infamously gruelling Annapurna Base Camp Trek. Never mind the fact there was a strong possibility of earthquake aftershocks, landslides and avalanches.

Even more absurd was my choice of sidekicks – two freakishly fit men who’d run the entire track if I wasn’t slowing them down. My guide, Raju, had muscles on his muscles and looked like a pocked-sized Nepalese Rambo. If it were physically possible, I’d say he had 0% body fat. Then there was my husband, Ben, who’d sprinted his way along the nine Great Walks of New Zealand (545km) in nine days, setting a world record. Talk about pressure! At least I was in good hands, right?

THE TREK

So, what had I signed up for exactly? The 21-Day Annapurna Circuit was too “next level intense” for me so I opted for the 12-Day Annapurna Sanctuary Trek to Base Camp. It’d see me reach a maximum altitude of 4130m (almost twice the height of our tallest mountain back home in Oz) and cover a distance of at least 110km. It was going to be a tough slog.

Bright eyed and bushy tailed, our team of three left the land of luxury and kicked off our adventure with a gentle canoe ride across Begnas Lake. It was nice to ease into things. We could see the Annapurna Mountains in the distance and they looked like an enchanted snow-capped land from a fairy tale – and so very far away.

As the blistering heat of the day settled in, it was time to take our first steps along the track in Pokhara. After 15-minutes of razor sharp incline, I turned around to my husband and said, “What the hell am I doing? I don’t think I can do this.” Already, I was a blotchy monster with chipolata fingers, a wheeze like a severe asthmatic and sweat in places I never thought possible (elbows – WTF?!). After chugging down some water and taking a moment to breathe, I decided I could survive 12 days of trekking; I just needed to take things one step at a time – nice and slow.

By the middle of the first day, I’d become accustomed to the assault on my muscles, shoulders and heart rate. I’d learnt to zone out, let my thoughts wander away from the pain, and focus on the beauty before me. Before long, our crew had settled into a perfect routine – we continued as though on autopilot: wake at dawn, feast on porridge, slog it out until lunchtime, enjoy a carb fest, wash sweaty clothes, chill out for the afternoon, tuck into more carbs, sleep and repeat.

But don’t let our daily “humdrum” fool you. Throughout the journey, my husband and I encountered some of the most beautiful sights we’d ever witnessed. The trek was nothing short of an epic adventure. We explored bustling lowland villages, scurried under cascading waterfalls, chilled out on terraced farmlands, dodged feisty leeches in the rain, trudged through lush rhododendron forests, rattled over mighty suspension bridges, tip-toed across icy rivers, stood still in breath-taking mountain vistas and laughed our way up the snow-lined path to Annapurna Base Camp.

Getting to the finish line was like reaching nirvana. At Annapurna Base Camp, you really feel as though you’re in the land of the Gods. Surrounded by wild purple flowers, the Guest House sits at the bottom of gigantic glacial basin like a cosy village inside a snow globe. The Annapurna Mountains, reaching up to 8091m, are all encompassing. There’s nowhere to look but up. As the sun falls and the stars take its place, you’re left in awe of nature and your teeny-tiny part in it. Yep, the hard yakka was all worth it.

THE SETUP & SAFETY

The trek to Annapurna Base Camp wasn’t just a physical challenge and an opportunity to get close to nature, it also became a unique cultural experience. As we travelled from village to village, Ben and I got a taste of rural Nepalese life. After a long, tough day on the track, we loved sitting back and taking it all in: women drying spices on their roofs, men toiling over the land and keeping cattle in check, grandparents minding smiley babies, young lads unleashing their testosterone over a game of volleyball, horses carting stones along cobblestone paths, mega bees maintaining beds of technicolour roses, community dogs hunting out affection…there was enough to keep us entertained for hours.

As we retreated to our Guest House at the end of each day, we were pleasantly surprised by how kitted out they were. While most didn’t offer the luxury of a TV, but many had free Wi-Fi and solar-heated showers – bliss. They also provided uber thick blankets, mouth-watering meals often made with fresh produce from the local farms, cold beer and hot chocolate. What more could we want?

Luckily, villages were rarely more than two hours apart, which meant tea breaks were always on the horizon – a saviour waiting in the near distance. Linking the villages was a beautifully engineered pathway made of iridescent stones. They sparkled like metallic fish scales, making the journey all the more magical.

Towards the end of the trek, the path became a little more challenging. We had to race across a few frozen waterfalls and rocky boulders, where there’d been an avalanche or landslide. Thanks to our savvy guide, we learnt to forget about taking photos in these instances and move quickly along. At one point, my boots lost their grip and I started sliding down the icy mountainside. Raju pounced towards me quicker than a Nepalese snow leopard, caught my hand and pulled me to safety. Thank God for Raju!

In light of the recent earthquakes, Ben and I were glad we’d opted for a guided tour of the Annapurna Track. Our mountain guru knew the area like the back of his hand and could help us navigate the riskier parts in the safest way possible. He also monitored the weather to ensure we didn’t hike straight into dangerous territory. The Annapurna mountains are an ever-moving beast, and Raju always had a contingency plan up his sleeve for changing conditions.

If you’re thinking of tackling the Base Camp, we highly recommend having a guide. The experience, albeit gruelling in parts, felt safe for us and we came out the other side having had the time of our lives. While we encountered a few hikers going it alone, we didn’t think it was worth the risk.

CONCLUSION

The Annapurna Sanctuary Trek was every bit the adventure I’d imagined it would be…and then some. It course was physically demanding, visually thrilling and emotionally all over the place. Despite the highs and lows, I was darn proud of myself for getting to the finish line. I hope one day you’ll make the journey too. You won’t regret it.

To book your Annapurna Adventure, contact Intertours Nepal: www.intertours-nepal.com

REVIEW: BEGNAS LAKE RESORT

How would you describe it? Elegant, tranquil, picturesque, refreshing and impeccable.

Who’d love it? Couples and honeymooners, burnt-out corporates, creatives, and less budget-conscious hikers. It’s the perfect hideaway for those needing to recharge their batteries or enjoy a little privacy.

How were the rooms? They were perfectly plush, but in an understated way. Jumping into bed was like diving onto a soft, white marshmallow – sooooo comfy! The bathrooms were beautifully modern and spacious, with a free-standing bathtub awaiting lovers or weary-bodied travellers. The private balcony was the highlight for me – I was happy to ensconce myself in the outdoor reading chair and look out over Begnas Lake and the ice-capped Annapurna Mountains.

How was the food? Divine. It took a while to reach the table, but for good reason. The in-house chef obviously cared about the quality and presentation of his food. Everything that came out of the kitchen was delicious, hearty and vibrant. I especially loved the brioche style rolls and chocolate scrolls – I actually swore when I bit into them for the first time!

What was the vibe like? SO relaxing. Everything was just perfect. The grounds were masterfully manicured, the rooms were spacious and luxurious, the staff were attentive and friendly, the view was truly decadent…Begnas Lake Resort felt like heaven on earth. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of central Pokhara, it was seriously peaceful and revitalising.

How was the service? Pretty faultless. The smiley staff were always happy to help…even when it came to carting our hefty bags up the brutal, never-ending staircase leading to the main road.

What were the highlights? The location and the view. It really is the perfect place to get away from it all – stress, chaos, urban junk, pollution, unhealthy distractions, demanding people etc. Located around 20-minutes away from central Pokhara, you feel completely removed from the hustle and bustle. The resort rests on the back of a lush hill, which has its toes in Begnas Lake and its eyes on the Himalayas. The closeness to nature is hard to beat. When the heat of the day kicks in, its a perfect chance to unleash your inner child and jump into the lake.

What’s different about the place? You can either arrive like a royal by boat or like an adventurer by forest track. Both options are pretty cool. The canoe ride is an unforgettable experience, as Begnas Lake is a beautiful sight to behold (especially with the Annapurna Mountains in the background). The trek down the mighty cobblestone staircase is also picturesque, with dense greenery surrounding you from every angle…though the climb back up is a little brutal!

How would you rate the overall experience? 9 out of 10 chocolate scrolls.

Resort Details:
Sundari Danda, Begnas Lake, Pokhara, Nepal
Tel: (+977-61) 560030, 560070, 693304
Email (sales office): begnasresort@fewamail.com.np
www.begnaslakeresort.com

CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK: WHAT’S YOUR SAFARI STYLE?

If “going on a safari” is on your bucket list, the odds are you haven’t considered living out this dream in Nepal. While Africa dominates the safari space, Nepal’s Chitwan National Park offers unforgettable wildlife encounters which are relatively “off the beaten track”.

Knowing little about the area and its highlights, Ben and I teamed up with Kishor from Tigerland Safari Resort for some expert guidance. Over two jam-packed days, we explored the Nepalese wilderness by foot, canoe, elephant and Jeep. Here’s how our adventures unfolded… 

ELEPHANT SAFARI

One of the most popular tourism experiences in Chitwan National Park is wandering through the dense grassland astride an elephant. Having witnesses the mistreatment of these beautiful creatures by tourism operators in other countries, I was initially uncomfortable with the idea of giving this a go. But, after speaking with the trainers at Tigerland Safari Resort and visiting the elephants in their enclosure, I was delighted by how well these beautiful creatures were being treated. If riding an elephant is your childhood dream and you can’t be talked out of it, make sure you choose an operator who cares for its wildlife in a humane way.

Exploring Chitwan National Park by elephant certainly has its advantages. It puts you on top of the world and delivers a prime view, while the wild things go about their business below. The creatures of Chitwan certainly seem unfazed around elephants, which are a natural and familiar sight.

During our sky-high safari, we came across the park’s most notorious attraction – the one-horned rhino. Despite their thick leathery armour and intimidating size, these monster mammals seemed very calm and, oddly enough, smiley. At one point, we also saw a crocodile swimming around our elephant’s toes. How close to nature can you get?!

Another special experience offered by Tigerland Safari Resort is the opportunity to bathe an elephant in the local river. After climbing on its bare back with less grace than a newborn calf, you make the journey to the water together and enjoy a communal drenching. As the elephant loads its trunk and unleashes a powerful jet down its back, your childhood Jungle Book dream comes to life. It’s a magical moment – one you’ll never forget.

A small tip if you decide an elephant safari is right up your alley: wear thick, long pants, as they will save your thighs from severe “elephant burn” (their hair isn’t particularly soft!). Wandering through the whip like grass can also lead to a nasty cuts, so chuck on a long-sleeved top and closed-in shoes, too.

WALKING SAFARI

Exploring Chitwan National Park by foot is the best way to uncover the majesty of its finer details. As you enter the dense jungle and tredge your way through the blanket of lime green foliage, your senses stand to attention. The complex natural aromas tantalise your nostrils, while the high-action theatre sends your eyes on a wild chase (monkey, peacock, boar, spotted dear, lizard, slug, sloth, strange red bug thing – where to look first?).

Then there’s the spectacular symphony of the birds and bugs. They lead the jungle in song and enchant its human visitors. Our savvy guide, Kishor, helped us decipher the different sounds and match them to their makers. Before long, he’d joined the jam session and started mimicking their melodies. It was awesome!

Our guide’s jungle genius didn’t end there. I’m not usually one to get excited about plants; but, once Kishor explained how the different species were used for local medicine, cuisine and craftsmanship, it was impossible not to be impressed.

CANOE SAFARI

Where there’s water, there’s life. Exploring Chitwan National Park by canoe will undoubtedly give you glimpses into its residents’ daily habits. Rhinos looking for a cool bath, deer stopping by for a quick drink, birds hunting for fish, locals chilling out…the rivers are hubs of constant activity.

It’s best to jump in a canoe for sunrise or sunset. The sun’s reflection on the water in the golden light makes for dreamy photographs. Plus, you’ll get to see the “changing of the guards”, as the nocturnal creatures make way for the daytime dwellers (or vice versa). The atmosphere at start and end of the day is both buzzing and beautifully calm – it’s a cool experience. 

JEEP SAFARI

Chitwan National Park covers a whopping 932km². If you want to traverse a decent chunk of this land and increase your chances of spotting the notoriously rare Bengal Tiger, a jeep safari is the way to go.

While you’d think the sound of a roaring engine would limit your chances of any noteworthy sightings, it’s strangely not the case. The drivers are pretty savvy and know when to take things slow ‘n’ steady. It’s a good idea to have binoculars or a camera with a zoom lens on hand, just in case you have to keep your distance.

As you Jeep-surf your way around the park’s like something out of Jurassic Park, you’ll get a chance to appreciate its sheer diversity. From the lush sal forest and eerie water marshes to the rippling elephant grassland and peripheral villages, every part of the park offers a different story and unique vibe. It’s easy to see why many travellers choose to stay a while.

As you can see, Chitwan National Park is the perfect place to go on safari. Whether you choose to explore the reserve by elephant, foot, canoe or Jeep, you’re guaranteed to experience many precious wildlife encounters. So, charge up your camera, grab your binoculars and step into the wild.

QUICK FACTS ABOUT CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK

• Chitwan means “Heart of the Jungle”.
• Established in 1973, it’s the first national park in Nepal.
• It was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1984.
• It’s one of the premier wildlife-viewing national parks in Asia.
• It offers a once-in-a-lifetime chance to spot the royal Bengal tiger and encounter One-Horn Rhinos.
• Many of the park’s animals were lost during the decade-long Maoist insurgency, when the Nepali army were too preoccupied with the conflict to provide adequate protection against poachers.
• In the 19^th Century, it was protected as a hunting reserve for Nepali and foreign aristocrats. Britain’s King George V and his son Edward VIII managed to slaughter a staggering 39 tigers and 18 rhinos during just one blood-soaked safari to Chitwan in 1911.
• In March 2014, Nepal celebrated a full year without poaching of endangered animals.

 

PACKING FOR ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP: A GIRL’S GUIDE

Tackling the mighty ascent to Annapurna Base Camp (4130m) is no simple feat. Even with a veteran porter carrying your kit, the 12-day return trip delivers a serious physical challenge. Funnily enough, though, most trekkers prefer to be their own packhorse. There’s something thrilling and fulfilling about being self-sufficient. Having said that, there’s no need to torture yourself by strapping obscene amounts of weight to your back. It’s a sure way to turn an adventure-of-a-lifetime into a painful and exhausting experience.

During my time on the Annapurna Track, I quickly discovered what was dead weight and what worth its weight in gold. Here’s my perfect packing list to help future Annapurna Trekkers enjoy the climb.

MUST-HAVES 

When you’re hiking the Annapurna Track during peak season (spring or autumn), you’re bound to encounter an exciting cocktail of climates, from blistering sunshine and powerful winds to bone-chilling snow and relentless rain. You need to pack for all occasions in the most efficient way possible. Quick-dry fabrics are they way to go. Here’s what I recommend to cover all bases.

• 1 x medium sized backpack (with a waterproof raincover)
• 1 x pair of hiking boots
• 1 x pair of thongs / flip flops (for evening wear)
• 3 x pairs thick hiking socks (I loved using Injinji. They protect your individual toes while you’re hiking and you can wear them with thongs in the evening.)
• 3 x pairs of comfy undies
• 3 x pairs of comfy sports bras
• 1 x hat / cap
• 3 x lightweight tops – mix of t-shirt and long-sleeve styles (can be used for hiking or evening wear – long sleeves will help protect you from the sun or the cold)
• 1 x fleece jumper (for evening wear – can fit over thermal base layer)
• 1 x pair of light weight hiking shorts
• 1 x pair of full length or 3/4 length tights (for colder days on the track)
• 1 x pair of full length hiking pants or warm pants (most likely for evening wear – can fit over the top of thermal base layers)
• 1 x pair of casual lightweight pants (e.g. leggings, shorts or hippie pants for evening wear on hot nights)
• 1 x hikers’ raincoat or poncho if you’re tight on cash (can also be used for hiking in cold or windy weather)
• 1 x pair of thermal base layers (bottoms and top)
• 1 x insulated jacket (for evening wear)
• 1 x pair of gloves
• 1 x beanie
• 1 x sweat band or head band (you will sweat profusely during the trek – guaranteed)
• A few hair ties and bobbie pins
• 1 x small bottle of sunscreen
• 1 x small bottle of shampoo (for washing your body, hair and clothes)
• Half a dozen plasters
• Any medication you require
• 1 x small tube of antiseptic cream
• 1 x fabric bandage (just in case you sprain your ankle)
• 1 x small tube or Vaseline or Lucas’ Paw Paw Ointment (for lip balm, dry skin or chaffing)
• 1 x roll of toilet paper (guest houses don’t have free toilet paper, but they will sell you rolls)
• 1 x chamois towel (they’re super light weight and dry quickly)
• 1-2L of water in reusable bottles (don’t carry too much, only enough to get you from village to village)
• Money (approx. $20-$35 USD per person, per day)
• Light weight digital camera or camera phone (e.g. iPhone 6, so you can take awesome pics throughout your trek and share them on social media – many guest houses offer free wi-fi)
• Pack of cards (for entertainment in the evenings)

BUY AS YOU GO

Don’t underestimate how commonplace and well-stocked villages are along the Annapurna Track. They’re generally only 2-3 hours apart and offer everything trekkers (and locals) need to survive life on the mountain. The soles of my husband’s hiking boots fell apart on Day 2 of our adventure. Without too much hassle, he was able to hobble to the nearest makeshift convenience store and source super-glue, wire and repair tools to last him the distance. There’s no need to pack for “just in case moments” and weigh yourself down. Stick with the necessities, and buy everything else on the road as you go.

• Snacks (buy them when you stop to rest in the villages, unless you need a constant supply of sugar or you’re super picky about what you eat)
• Water (clean drinking water isn’t hard to come buy)
• Toilet paper and emergency sanitary items
• Repair and maintenance tools (e.g. needle and thread)
• Leech salt dabber (leeches are common on the track, especially towards the start in moist environments. Ask a local to make a “salt dabber” for you using a pile of salt placed inside an old piece of cloth/sock and tied at the top with a rubber band) 
• First aid items for minor injuries

LUXURIES

Everyone has their addictions, weaknesses, pet peeves and stubborn routines they “can’t” live without. I absolutely hate being cold and can’t fall asleep unless I’ve read a few pages of a good book. As such, I’d rather deal with a little extra weight in my backpack than do without my Kindle and additional thermal layers. If a few extra items are going to make a big and positive difference to your Annapurna experience, don’t feel guilty about packing them. Just don’t get carried away – be as cut-throat as you can.

• Things that make you feel human…like a female human (e.g. shaving gear, moisturiser and deodorant. Trying to make yourself smell good is a pointless cause – you’re guaranteed to sweat off any sweet smells you smother yourself in. It’s best to go “feral” for the journey and make do with a shower at the end of each day.)
• Things that keep you as snug as a bug in a rug (e.g. hot water bottle, sleeping bag, pashmina / scarf and bulky winter clothes. All guest houses offer super thick blankets, hot meals and scorching cups of coffee/tea. As long as you pack the items listed under “Must Haves”, you’ll be able to cope with the cold).
• Things that help you capture your experience like a pro (e.g. state-of-the-art cameras, lenses and recording devices. Unless your filming a professional documentary or taking photos for an internationally acclaimed travel mag, ditch the heavy camera gear. Stick with your phone or a small digital camera). 
• Things that entertain you (e.g. laptops, iPads, movies, books and anything that connects to Wi-Fi. If getting in touch with nature and being social aren’t enough to keep you entertained in the evenings, pack the lightest entertainment gadgets you can e.g. a Kindle or iPad. Most guest houses offer free Wi-Fi and electricity towards the start of the trip. From Bamboo to Annapurna Base Camp, you’ll be hard-pressed to find internet access or charging facilities). 
• Things that keep you dry and dirt-free (e.g. umbrellas, gaiters and waterproof trench coats. These items tend to be bulky, awkward and heavy – they are unnecessary for the Annapurna Track).
• Things that help you take some of the weight off (e.g. walking sticks and a porter. Unless you suffer from physical challenges, go without this support. The walking sticks only come in handy when you’re walking through snow, which happens right at the end of the track – they’re not vital).