SHOULD I STILL TRAVEL TO NEPAL?

A couple of months ago, there was seemingly no better place for adventure than Nepal. However, in light of the recent earthquakes, many travellers have placed this bucket list destination in the “too dangerous” bin.

Having felt the first major quake on route to Nepal, I certainly considered doing a U-turn and ditching my dreams of exploring the mighty Himalayas. The Nepal I saw on the news looked terrifying, chaotic and devastated. A number of nervous thoughts started running through my head. Does Nepal even want tourists at the moment? Would I be causing a strain on resources, which are desperately needed by the locals? Would there be more earthquakes? Would I become a missing face on the news back home and create hell for my loved ones?

I suddenly remembered what it was like living in Queensland (Australia) when Cyclone Yasi hit. Millions of people around the world were bombarded with images that made the entire Sunshine State look like a war zone. The message? Queensland was closed to holiday-goers indefinitely. Don’t bother visiting anytime soon.

The reality on the ground was very different. Don’t get me wrong; there were several towns which had been severely affected by the cyclone. What the international community didn’t see were the many beautiful destinations that were alive and well. The result? All of Queensland (and, even, Australia) suffered the effects of a hard hit tourism industry, one of the main arteries supporting the economy. It took years for tourists numbers to get back to normal.

Then I thought about Nepal. After a few in-depth discussions with my husband, Ben and I decided to push on with our plans, see the situation for ourselves and inject some tourism dollars into the country. So, we packed our Land Rover with extra resources (food, water, petrol, and a tent) and called ahead to make sure we were welcome. The operators we spoke to all said the same thing, “Please come, we need you!”. And so our Nepal adventure began. Here’s what we experienced during our 30-day Himalayan holiday – sights, highlights, hiccups and all.

KATHMANDU

As we drove into Kathmandu, there was no denying the capital had been hit hard by earthquakes. Mammoth buildings had crumbled like concertina paper houses…I started to think we’d made the wrong decision. But then we reached Thamel.

While surrounding suburbs showed signs of damage, Thamel seemed frozen in time – a happier time. This tourist Mecca and world-renowned hippie hub was buzzing with travellers, life, and old-world charm. Before Ben and I knew it, we’d lost ourselves to the laneways and restaurants for over a week – there certainly wasn’t a shortage of food and fun! We absolutely loved the place.

During our time in Thamel, the second major quake shook Kathmandu. Based on local advice, we’d opted for a modern hotel with an open courtyard and pre-planned our emergency exit route just to be safe. While the experience was a little nerve-racking, we felt comfortable enough to stick around and continue with our plans.

POKHARA & BEGNAS LAKE

Following the footsteps of many hiking enthusiasts before us, we travelled to Pokhara in preparation for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek. While the town’s infrastructure seemed relatively unscathed by earthquake damage, tourist numbers were definitely down.

The funky pockets of Lakeside and Oldtown, once heaving with international visitors, had become tranquil urban sanctuaries. On the plus side, Ben and I were able to enjoy massages and meals on a whim – no bookings required. Staying at the luxurious Begnas Lake Resort, we had the entire place to ourselves and more support staff than we knew what to do with. While it wasn’t what we expected, the experience worked out for the best. Ben and I found the peace and quiet we needed to truly unwind.

ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TRACK

When my husband first suggested tackling the 9-day trek to Annapurna Base Camp, I was a bit nervous. I had visions of us being taken out by landslides and avalanches triggered by earthquake tremors. So, we chose to travel with a veteran guide from InterTours who knew the mountains like the back of his hand. He assured us the track would be safe as long as we followed his lead and took precautions along the way.

Throughout our journey, we witnesses very little damage to villages and the mountains. We were encouraged to walk quickly through landslide and avalanche prone areas (which were rare and had posed a potential threat for many years), just to be safe. Thanks to our savvy and supportive guide, Ben and I enjoyed the adventure-of-a-life-time on the Annapurna Track. It was one of the most physically challenging and visually epic things we’d ever experienced. If it’s on your Bucket List, keep it there!

CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK

Chitwan was our big surprise and delight moment of the trip. Not knowing much about the area, we didn’t expect close encounters with rhinos, river baths with elephants, walks through wildlife-rich jungles, and romantic sunrise canoe rides. But that’s exactly what we got, and then some! Chitwan National Park was incredible and there were no signs of physical damage to reserve post-quake. It was teeming with cool creatures, many I’d never seen out of captivity before. The safaris were stuff of dreams and I’ll never forget them – they need to be on your itinerary if you’re planning to visit Nepal.

 

So there you have it. Nepal is still a place you should visit in the near future, just be safe and savvy while travelling around this stunning part of the world. Source local intelligence, take precautions and be smart about things.

While remote villages with significant earthquake damage will take time to recover, the main tourists hubs have more than enough resources to support locals as well as visitors. Many of the major draw cards tempting travellers to Nepal are still open for business – operators are eager and able to offer wonderful travel experiences.

If you find yourself in the heart of the Himalayas anytime soon, share your experiences through blogs, social media and beyond. Help Nepal get its positive news stories out to rest the world. There are many of them just begging to be told. 

ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP: A HIGH ALTITUDE ADVENTURE

Where there’s risk, there’s adventure. Will the experience be as good as you’d hoped? Will your body get you to the finish line? Will your spirit crumble under the pressure? Will Mother Nature decide it’s not your lucky day? Or, will you triumph in the face of these challenges, discover what you’re made of and enjoy the experience of a lifetime?

If you choose to tackle the world-renowned trek to Annapurna Base Camp, you’ll undoubtedly ask yourself these questions along the way…especially in light of the recent earthquakes. Having thrown caution to the wind and hiked my way to the Himalayan heavens, I’d like to share my brutal and unforgettably brilliant experience of the Annapurna Track.

MEET THE TEAM

Here’s the thing. I’m the kind of girl who’d rather watch movies from the comfort of a plush hotel bed than climb mountains. But, every now and then, spontaneity grabs hold of me and I leap into something stupidly epic…without training…or any knowledge of what I’m getting into. So, it’s hardly surprising that, while holidaying in Nepal, I eventually found myself signing up for the infamously gruelling Annapurna Base Camp Trek. Never mind the fact there was a strong possibility of earthquake aftershocks, landslides and avalanches.

Even more absurd was my choice of sidekicks – two freakishly fit men who’d run the entire track if I wasn’t slowing them down. My guide, Raju, had muscles on his muscles and looked like a pocked-sized Nepalese Rambo. If it were physically possible, I’d say he had 0% body fat. Then there was my husband, Ben, who’d sprinted his way along the nine Great Walks of New Zealand (545km) in nine days, setting a world record. Talk about pressure! At least I was in good hands, right?

THE TREK

So, what had I signed up for exactly? The 21-Day Annapurna Circuit was too “next level intense” for me so I opted for the 12-Day Annapurna Sanctuary Trek to Base Camp. It’d see me reach a maximum altitude of 4130m (almost twice the height of our tallest mountain back home in Oz) and cover a distance of at least 110km. It was going to be a tough slog.

Bright eyed and bushy tailed, our team of three left the land of luxury and kicked off our adventure with a gentle canoe ride across Begnas Lake. It was nice to ease into things. We could see the Annapurna Mountains in the distance and they looked like an enchanted snow-capped land from a fairy tale – and so very far away.

As the blistering heat of the day settled in, it was time to take our first steps along the track in Pokhara. After 15-minutes of razor sharp incline, I turned around to my husband and said, “What the hell am I doing? I don’t think I can do this.” Already, I was a blotchy monster with chipolata fingers, a wheeze like a severe asthmatic and sweat in places I never thought possible (elbows – WTF?!). After chugging down some water and taking a moment to breathe, I decided I could survive 12 days of trekking; I just needed to take things one step at a time – nice and slow.

By the middle of the first day, I’d become accustomed to the assault on my muscles, shoulders and heart rate. I’d learnt to zone out, let my thoughts wander away from the pain, and focus on the beauty before me. Before long, our crew had settled into a perfect routine – we continued as though on autopilot: wake at dawn, feast on porridge, slog it out until lunchtime, enjoy a carb fest, wash sweaty clothes, chill out for the afternoon, tuck into more carbs, sleep and repeat.

But don’t let our daily “humdrum” fool you. Throughout the journey, my husband and I encountered some of the most beautiful sights we’d ever witnessed. The trek was nothing short of an epic adventure. We explored bustling lowland villages, scurried under cascading waterfalls, chilled out on terraced farmlands, dodged feisty leeches in the rain, trudged through lush rhododendron forests, rattled over mighty suspension bridges, tip-toed across icy rivers, stood still in breath-taking mountain vistas and laughed our way up the snow-lined path to Annapurna Base Camp.

Getting to the finish line was like reaching nirvana. At Annapurna Base Camp, you really feel as though you’re in the land of the Gods. Surrounded by wild purple flowers, the Guest House sits at the bottom of gigantic glacial basin like a cosy village inside a snow globe. The Annapurna Mountains, reaching up to 8091m, are all encompassing. There’s nowhere to look but up. As the sun falls and the stars take its place, you’re left in awe of nature and your teeny-tiny part in it. Yep, the hard yakka was all worth it.

THE SETUP & SAFETY

The trek to Annapurna Base Camp wasn’t just a physical challenge and an opportunity to get close to nature, it also became a unique cultural experience. As we travelled from village to village, Ben and I got a taste of rural Nepalese life. After a long, tough day on the track, we loved sitting back and taking it all in: women drying spices on their roofs, men toiling over the land and keeping cattle in check, grandparents minding smiley babies, young lads unleashing their testosterone over a game of volleyball, horses carting stones along cobblestone paths, mega bees maintaining beds of technicolour roses, community dogs hunting out affection…there was enough to keep us entertained for hours.

As we retreated to our Guest House at the end of each day, we were pleasantly surprised by how kitted out they were. While most didn’t offer the luxury of a TV, but many had free Wi-Fi and solar-heated showers – bliss. They also provided uber thick blankets, mouth-watering meals often made with fresh produce from the local farms, cold beer and hot chocolate. What more could we want?

Luckily, villages were rarely more than two hours apart, which meant tea breaks were always on the horizon – a saviour waiting in the near distance. Linking the villages was a beautifully engineered pathway made of iridescent stones. They sparkled like metallic fish scales, making the journey all the more magical.

Towards the end of the trek, the path became a little more challenging. We had to race across a few frozen waterfalls and rocky boulders, where there’d been an avalanche or landslide. Thanks to our savvy guide, we learnt to forget about taking photos in these instances and move quickly along. At one point, my boots lost their grip and I started sliding down the icy mountainside. Raju pounced towards me quicker than a Nepalese snow leopard, caught my hand and pulled me to safety. Thank God for Raju!

In light of the recent earthquakes, Ben and I were glad we’d opted for a guided tour of the Annapurna Track. Our mountain guru knew the area like the back of his hand and could help us navigate the riskier parts in the safest way possible. He also monitored the weather to ensure we didn’t hike straight into dangerous territory. The Annapurna mountains are an ever-moving beast, and Raju always had a contingency plan up his sleeve for changing conditions.

If you’re thinking of tackling the Base Camp, we highly recommend having a guide. The experience, albeit gruelling in parts, felt safe for us and we came out the other side having had the time of our lives. While we encountered a few hikers going it alone, we didn’t think it was worth the risk.

CONCLUSION

The Annapurna Sanctuary Trek was every bit the adventure I’d imagined it would be…and then some. It course was physically demanding, visually thrilling and emotionally all over the place. Despite the highs and lows, I was darn proud of myself for getting to the finish line. I hope one day you’ll make the journey too. You won’t regret it.

To book your Annapurna Adventure, contact Intertours Nepal: www.intertours-nepal.com

REVIEW: BEGNAS LAKE RESORT

How would you describe it? Elegant, tranquil, picturesque, refreshing and impeccable.

Who’d love it? Couples and honeymooners, burnt-out corporates, creatives, and less budget-conscious hikers. It’s the perfect hideaway for those needing to recharge their batteries or enjoy a little privacy.

How were the rooms? They were perfectly plush, but in an understated way. Jumping into bed was like diving onto a soft, white marshmallow – sooooo comfy! The bathrooms were beautifully modern and spacious, with a free-standing bathtub awaiting lovers or weary-bodied travellers. The private balcony was the highlight for me – I was happy to ensconce myself in the outdoor reading chair and look out over Begnas Lake and the ice-capped Annapurna Mountains.

How was the food? Divine. It took a while to reach the table, but for good reason. The in-house chef obviously cared about the quality and presentation of his food. Everything that came out of the kitchen was delicious, hearty and vibrant. I especially loved the brioche style rolls and chocolate scrolls – I actually swore when I bit into them for the first time!

What was the vibe like? SO relaxing. Everything was just perfect. The grounds were masterfully manicured, the rooms were spacious and luxurious, the staff were attentive and friendly, the view was truly decadent…Begnas Lake Resort felt like heaven on earth. Tucked away from the hustle and bustle of central Pokhara, it was seriously peaceful and revitalising.

How was the service? Pretty faultless. The smiley staff were always happy to help…even when it came to carting our hefty bags up the brutal, never-ending staircase leading to the main road.

What were the highlights? The location and the view. It really is the perfect place to get away from it all – stress, chaos, urban junk, pollution, unhealthy distractions, demanding people etc. Located around 20-minutes away from central Pokhara, you feel completely removed from the hustle and bustle. The resort rests on the back of a lush hill, which has its toes in Begnas Lake and its eyes on the Himalayas. The closeness to nature is hard to beat. When the heat of the day kicks in, its a perfect chance to unleash your inner child and jump into the lake.

What’s different about the place? You can either arrive like a royal by boat or like an adventurer by forest track. Both options are pretty cool. The canoe ride is an unforgettable experience, as Begnas Lake is a beautiful sight to behold (especially with the Annapurna Mountains in the background). The trek down the mighty cobblestone staircase is also picturesque, with dense greenery surrounding you from every angle…though the climb back up is a little brutal!

How would you rate the overall experience? 9 out of 10 chocolate scrolls.

Resort Details:
Sundari Danda, Begnas Lake, Pokhara, Nepal
Tel: (+977-61) 560030, 560070, 693304
Email (sales office): begnasresort@fewamail.com.np
www.begnaslakeresort.com

PACKING FOR ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP: A GIRL’S GUIDE

Tackling the mighty ascent to Annapurna Base Camp (4130m) is no simple feat. Even with a veteran porter carrying your kit, the 12-day return trip delivers a serious physical challenge. Funnily enough, though, most trekkers prefer to be their own packhorse. There’s something thrilling and fulfilling about being self-sufficient. Having said that, there’s no need to torture yourself by strapping obscene amounts of weight to your back. It’s a sure way to turn an adventure-of-a-lifetime into a painful and exhausting experience.

During my time on the Annapurna Track, I quickly discovered what was dead weight and what worth its weight in gold. Here’s my perfect packing list to help future Annapurna Trekkers enjoy the climb.

MUST-HAVES 

When you’re hiking the Annapurna Track during peak season (spring or autumn), you’re bound to encounter an exciting cocktail of climates, from blistering sunshine and powerful winds to bone-chilling snow and relentless rain. You need to pack for all occasions in the most efficient way possible. Quick-dry fabrics are they way to go. Here’s what I recommend to cover all bases.

• 1 x medium sized backpack (with a waterproof raincover)
• 1 x pair of hiking boots
• 1 x pair of thongs / flip flops (for evening wear)
• 3 x pairs thick hiking socks (I loved using Injinji. They protect your individual toes while you’re hiking and you can wear them with thongs in the evening.)
• 3 x pairs of comfy undies
• 3 x pairs of comfy sports bras
• 1 x hat / cap
• 3 x lightweight tops – mix of t-shirt and long-sleeve styles (can be used for hiking or evening wear – long sleeves will help protect you from the sun or the cold)
• 1 x fleece jumper (for evening wear – can fit over thermal base layer)
• 1 x pair of light weight hiking shorts
• 1 x pair of full length or 3/4 length tights (for colder days on the track)
• 1 x pair of full length hiking pants or warm pants (most likely for evening wear – can fit over the top of thermal base layers)
• 1 x pair of casual lightweight pants (e.g. leggings, shorts or hippie pants for evening wear on hot nights)
• 1 x hikers’ raincoat or poncho if you’re tight on cash (can also be used for hiking in cold or windy weather)
• 1 x pair of thermal base layers (bottoms and top)
• 1 x insulated jacket (for evening wear)
• 1 x pair of gloves
• 1 x beanie
• 1 x sweat band or head band (you will sweat profusely during the trek – guaranteed)
• A few hair ties and bobbie pins
• 1 x small bottle of sunscreen
• 1 x small bottle of shampoo (for washing your body, hair and clothes)
• Half a dozen plasters
• Any medication you require
• 1 x small tube of antiseptic cream
• 1 x fabric bandage (just in case you sprain your ankle)
• 1 x small tube or Vaseline or Lucas’ Paw Paw Ointment (for lip balm, dry skin or chaffing)
• 1 x roll of toilet paper (guest houses don’t have free toilet paper, but they will sell you rolls)
• 1 x chamois towel (they’re super light weight and dry quickly)
• 1-2L of water in reusable bottles (don’t carry too much, only enough to get you from village to village)
• Money (approx. $20-$35 USD per person, per day)
• Light weight digital camera or camera phone (e.g. iPhone 6, so you can take awesome pics throughout your trek and share them on social media – many guest houses offer free wi-fi)
• Pack of cards (for entertainment in the evenings)

BUY AS YOU GO

Don’t underestimate how commonplace and well-stocked villages are along the Annapurna Track. They’re generally only 2-3 hours apart and offer everything trekkers (and locals) need to survive life on the mountain. The soles of my husband’s hiking boots fell apart on Day 2 of our adventure. Without too much hassle, he was able to hobble to the nearest makeshift convenience store and source super-glue, wire and repair tools to last him the distance. There’s no need to pack for “just in case moments” and weigh yourself down. Stick with the necessities, and buy everything else on the road as you go.

• Snacks (buy them when you stop to rest in the villages, unless you need a constant supply of sugar or you’re super picky about what you eat)
• Water (clean drinking water isn’t hard to come buy)
• Toilet paper and emergency sanitary items
• Repair and maintenance tools (e.g. needle and thread)
• Leech salt dabber (leeches are common on the track, especially towards the start in moist environments. Ask a local to make a “salt dabber” for you using a pile of salt placed inside an old piece of cloth/sock and tied at the top with a rubber band) 
• First aid items for minor injuries

LUXURIES

Everyone has their addictions, weaknesses, pet peeves and stubborn routines they “can’t” live without. I absolutely hate being cold and can’t fall asleep unless I’ve read a few pages of a good book. As such, I’d rather deal with a little extra weight in my backpack than do without my Kindle and additional thermal layers. If a few extra items are going to make a big and positive difference to your Annapurna experience, don’t feel guilty about packing them. Just don’t get carried away – be as cut-throat as you can.

• Things that make you feel human…like a female human (e.g. shaving gear, moisturiser and deodorant. Trying to make yourself smell good is a pointless cause – you’re guaranteed to sweat off any sweet smells you smother yourself in. It’s best to go “feral” for the journey and make do with a shower at the end of each day.)
• Things that keep you as snug as a bug in a rug (e.g. hot water bottle, sleeping bag, pashmina / scarf and bulky winter clothes. All guest houses offer super thick blankets, hot meals and scorching cups of coffee/tea. As long as you pack the items listed under “Must Haves”, you’ll be able to cope with the cold).
• Things that help you capture your experience like a pro (e.g. state-of-the-art cameras, lenses and recording devices. Unless your filming a professional documentary or taking photos for an internationally acclaimed travel mag, ditch the heavy camera gear. Stick with your phone or a small digital camera). 
• Things that entertain you (e.g. laptops, iPads, movies, books and anything that connects to Wi-Fi. If getting in touch with nature and being social aren’t enough to keep you entertained in the evenings, pack the lightest entertainment gadgets you can e.g. a Kindle or iPad. Most guest houses offer free Wi-Fi and electricity towards the start of the trip. From Bamboo to Annapurna Base Camp, you’ll be hard-pressed to find internet access or charging facilities). 
• Things that keep you dry and dirt-free (e.g. umbrellas, gaiters and waterproof trench coats. These items tend to be bulky, awkward and heavy – they are unnecessary for the Annapurna Track).
• Things that help you take some of the weight off (e.g. walking sticks and a porter. Unless you suffer from physical challenges, go without this support. The walking sticks only come in handy when you’re walking through snow, which happens right at the end of the track – they’re not vital).