SHOULD I STILL TRAVEL TO NEPAL?

A couple of months ago, there was seemingly no better place for adventure than Nepal. However, in light of the recent earthquakes, many travellers have placed this bucket list destination in the “too dangerous” bin.

Having felt the first major quake on route to Nepal, I certainly considered doing a U-turn and ditching my dreams of exploring the mighty Himalayas. The Nepal I saw on the news looked terrifying, chaotic and devastated. A number of nervous thoughts started running through my head. Does Nepal even want tourists at the moment? Would I be causing a strain on resources, which are desperately needed by the locals? Would there be more earthquakes? Would I become a missing face on the news back home and create hell for my loved ones?

I suddenly remembered what it was like living in Queensland (Australia) when Cyclone Yasi hit. Millions of people around the world were bombarded with images that made the entire Sunshine State look like a war zone. The message? Queensland was closed to holiday-goers indefinitely. Don’t bother visiting anytime soon.

The reality on the ground was very different. Don’t get me wrong; there were several towns which had been severely affected by the cyclone. What the international community didn’t see were the many beautiful destinations that were alive and well. The result? All of Queensland (and, even, Australia) suffered the effects of a hard hit tourism industry, one of the main arteries supporting the economy. It took years for tourists numbers to get back to normal.

Then I thought about Nepal. After a few in-depth discussions with my husband, Ben and I decided to push on with our plans, see the situation for ourselves and inject some tourism dollars into the country. So, we packed our Land Rover with extra resources (food, water, petrol, and a tent) and called ahead to make sure we were welcome. The operators we spoke to all said the same thing, “Please come, we need you!”. And so our Nepal adventure began. Here’s what we experienced during our 30-day Himalayan holiday – sights, highlights, hiccups and all.

KATHMANDU

As we drove into Kathmandu, there was no denying the capital had been hit hard by earthquakes. Mammoth buildings had crumbled like concertina paper houses…I started to think we’d made the wrong decision. But then we reached Thamel.

While surrounding suburbs showed signs of damage, Thamel seemed frozen in time – a happier time. This tourist Mecca and world-renowned hippie hub was buzzing with travellers, life, and old-world charm. Before Ben and I knew it, we’d lost ourselves to the laneways and restaurants for over a week – there certainly wasn’t a shortage of food and fun! We absolutely loved the place.

During our time in Thamel, the second major quake shook Kathmandu. Based on local advice, we’d opted for a modern hotel with an open courtyard and pre-planned our emergency exit route just to be safe. While the experience was a little nerve-racking, we felt comfortable enough to stick around and continue with our plans.

POKHARA & BEGNAS LAKE

Following the footsteps of many hiking enthusiasts before us, we travelled to Pokhara in preparation for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek. While the town’s infrastructure seemed relatively unscathed by earthquake damage, tourist numbers were definitely down.

The funky pockets of Lakeside and Oldtown, once heaving with international visitors, had become tranquil urban sanctuaries. On the plus side, Ben and I were able to enjoy massages and meals on a whim – no bookings required. Staying at the luxurious Begnas Lake Resort, we had the entire place to ourselves and more support staff than we knew what to do with. While it wasn’t what we expected, the experience worked out for the best. Ben and I found the peace and quiet we needed to truly unwind.

ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TRACK

When my husband first suggested tackling the 9-day trek to Annapurna Base Camp, I was a bit nervous. I had visions of us being taken out by landslides and avalanches triggered by earthquake tremors. So, we chose to travel with a veteran guide from InterTours who knew the mountains like the back of his hand. He assured us the track would be safe as long as we followed his lead and took precautions along the way.

Throughout our journey, we witnesses very little damage to villages and the mountains. We were encouraged to walk quickly through landslide and avalanche prone areas (which were rare and had posed a potential threat for many years), just to be safe. Thanks to our savvy and supportive guide, Ben and I enjoyed the adventure-of-a-life-time on the Annapurna Track. It was one of the most physically challenging and visually epic things we’d ever experienced. If it’s on your Bucket List, keep it there!

CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK

Chitwan was our big surprise and delight moment of the trip. Not knowing much about the area, we didn’t expect close encounters with rhinos, river baths with elephants, walks through wildlife-rich jungles, and romantic sunrise canoe rides. But that’s exactly what we got, and then some! Chitwan National Park was incredible and there were no signs of physical damage to reserve post-quake. It was teeming with cool creatures, many I’d never seen out of captivity before. The safaris were stuff of dreams and I’ll never forget them – they need to be on your itinerary if you’re planning to visit Nepal.

 

So there you have it. Nepal is still a place you should visit in the near future, just be safe and savvy while travelling around this stunning part of the world. Source local intelligence, take precautions and be smart about things.

While remote villages with significant earthquake damage will take time to recover, the main tourists hubs have more than enough resources to support locals as well as visitors. Many of the major draw cards tempting travellers to Nepal are still open for business – operators are eager and able to offer wonderful travel experiences.

If you find yourself in the heart of the Himalayas anytime soon, share your experiences through blogs, social media and beyond. Help Nepal get its positive news stories out to rest the world. There are many of them just begging to be told. 

A FOOD ADVENTURE IN THAMEL (KATHMANDU)

Thamel is like Disneyland for hippies. Incense, hash, body art, daggy baggy clothes, vegan food, yoga classes, mountain gear, bejewelled bits ‘n’ bobs, more hash…it sells everything a travelling hobo could possibly desire in a teeny-tiny radius.

Indeed, it’s easy to lose yourself to Thamel and call the place Kathmandu. A labyrinth of narrow paths and miniature retailers, it’s gritty, weathered and blanketed by old-world charm. There are stores within stores – sideways, around the corner, down the back and six stories skyward – all begging for your tourist dollar.

Before you know it, you’re stuck in a blissful holiday routine: sleep, shop, eat, repeat. While your day-to-day business stays pretty much the same, the places you visit will undoubtedly change. There are so many wonderful restaurants to choose from, it’s possible to enjoy every lunch, dinner and snack session in a different hideaway. During my stay in Thamel, I did exactly that. Here are my favourite food finds; they won’t disappoint.

BEST VEGETARIAN
Where to go: OR2K, Mandala Street
Why it’s awesome: Apart from the huge, flavour-packed meals, OR2K really draws a crowd thanks to its unique ambience. Offering a social yet relaxed setting, it’s a place where you can slip off your shoes, chill out on giant pillows, share stories with other travellers and soak up the uber cool vibe.
What to try: The falafel if you’re on your own, or the OR2K Combo Platter between two. Both are delicious and great value.
Tasty tip: The meals are massive, so consider buying a light option or sharing a starter and a main between two people, especially if you’re on a tight budget. 

BEST SWEET TREATS
Where to go: Third Eye Bakery & Espresso Bar, Chaksibari Marg
Why it’s awesome: Their desserts are prettiest, most decadent treats in town. Unlike a lot of other bakeries in the area, which offer beige, beige and more beige, Third Eye presents an exciting range of vibrant, eclectic sweets.
What to try: Whatever takes your fancy. Everything is delicious.
Tasty tip: They sell a lot of their stock at half price towards the end of the day (just when dessert cravings kick in). 

BEST SANDWICHES
Where to go: Gourmet Bakery & Coffee Shop, Mandala Street
Why it’s awesome: The sandwiches are cheap, chunky and filled with saucy goodness.
What to try: Any of the large sandwiches. The bread is soft, light and moreishly good.
Tasty tip: If you’re not big on sauce or dressings, mention it to the staff before they start creating your carb feast. Otherwise, you’re in for a soggy sanga.

BEST NEPALESE FOOD
Where to go: Mahabir’s Centre for Nepal Connection, Mandala Street
Why it’s awesome: If you’re not from this part of the world, the local food menu is a wild guessing game – which is kind of exciting. Luckily, the staff are eager to talk you through the dishes and traditional techniques for eating them.
What to try: The Khaja Set. When in Nepal, try the local food…even if it sounds strange.
Tasty tip: Eat with your fingers if you order the Khaja Set. It’s a whole lot more fun, plus it’s how things are done. 

Where to go: La Bella Café, Chaksibari Marg Street
Why it’s awesome: It has a classy Italian vibe, which offers the perfect escape from the commercial, chaotic streets of Thamel.
What to try: The momos are divine. La Bella Cafe is the best place to gorge on Nepal’s most popular dish. Order the lemonade to go with your meal. It’s zingy, refreshing and perfectly sweet.
Tasty tip: Travel up to the second floor and sit as close to the street as you can. It’s a fantastic vantage point for people-watching.

BEST HEALTHY STUFF
Where to go: Green Organic Cafe, Chaksibari Marg
Why it’s awesome: The food is mind-blowing, healthy and creative. The “GOC” is hands down my favourite restaurant in Thamel.
What to try: You MUST try their signature dish, the Everest Victory Salad. The homemade noodles are delightful and the dressing is special by name and nature.
Tasty tip: Don’t get frustrated when the internet doesn’t seem to work. Take a pack of cards, read a book or – better yet – enjoy your meal!

BEST TEA & COFFEE
Where to go: Himalayan Java Coffee, Mandala Street
Why it’s awesome: Because it’s more refined and polished than many of the other rough ‘n’ tough coffee shops in the area. Plus, the staff go they extra mile. My chia tea came with crema on top. I’d never seen that before. Yum!
What to try: Your beverage of choice…plus a cookie.
Tasty tip: Bring your laptop. This funky-fresh hideaway is a perfect spot to host small meetings or get some travel research and work done.  

BEST CHEAP EATS
Where to go: Green Valley Café & Restaurant, Chaksibari Marg
Why it’s awesome: The staff are chatty, the locals love it, the food is flavoursome and your budget will thank you for it.
What to try: The momos and curries.
Tasty tip: The portions are as modest as the prices, so why not treat yourself to an entree?

BEST STREET FOOD
Where to go: A roving food vendor, most likely on the corner of Thamel Marg & Leknath Marg
Why it’s awesome: It’s a cheap, fast thrill … for your tastebuds.
What to try: The rice bubble cone thing. It looks like a kid’s wild food concoction, especially when a dozen mystery ingredients get mixed with it. But, it’ll kick start a rockin’ party in your mouth.
Tasty tip: If you can’t handle the heat, ask for the mild version.