BEWITCHED BY HAMPI

Before arriving in India, Hampi had been on my bucket list for a while…but, I couldn’t tell you why. For some unknown reason, it was one of the few places I could name in India. Perhaps I’d heard wonderful whispers about Hampi without really taking them in. While I knew I wanted to visit this mysterious place, I didn’t have a clue what made it special. So, as Ben and I approached this tourist Mecca, I tucked into some research. Here are a few insights which caught my attention:

• Hampi, which means “champion”, is located within the infamous ruins of Vijayanagara, the former capital of the Vijayanagara Empire.
• The ruins are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• Hampi formed one of the core areas of the Vijayanagara Empire from 1343 to 1565. It was chosen because of its strategic location, bounded by the torrential Tungabhadra River on one side and surrounded by defensible hills on its other three sides.
• Hampi continues to be a significant historical, architectural and religious site. It’s home to many notable Hindu temples, some of which are still active places of worship.
• The extant monuments of Vijayanagara (or Hampi) can be divided into Religious, Civil and Military buildings.
• While most of the monuments in Hampi are from the Vijayanagara period, a small proportion have been assigned to pre-Vijayanagara times. The first historical settlements in Hampi date back to 1CE!

While these insights were certainly fascinating, it wasn’t until Ben and I arrived in Hampi that we understood why it was a major pit stop on the traveller circuit. We were spellbound from the moment we laid eyes on the mars-like landscape. It was so different to anything we’d seen before – a sea of giant boulders perched precariously over miles of undulated terrain, their rusty hues offset by zesty green palm groves, banana plantations and paddy fields. A perfect azure sky, peppered with fluffy white Simpson’s clouds, enhanced the epic atmosphere. The forlorn ruins seemed scattered across Hampi’s dramatic scenery, their former beauty still glimmering through the harsh destruction of time.

Before long, Ben and I had lost ourselves to the ancient relics. With only a half day available to explore Hampi, we stuck to the area’s main attractions, including the Vittala Temple and its iconic stone chariot, market corridors and musical pillars. Wandering through the mammoth temple entrance, we were transported to a bygone era. It’s ornate walls oozed secrets from the past – the architecture was mesmerising.

As Ben and I wrapped up our time in Hampi and started our journey to Goa, we watched the legendary landscape fly past our car windows in distracted silence. It was amazing to see how millions of years of volcanic activity and erosion could result in a beautifully bewitching backdrop. If only we’d had time to linger a little longer.

SHOULD I STILL TRAVEL TO NEPAL?

A couple of months ago, there was seemingly no better place for adventure than Nepal. However, in light of the recent earthquakes, many travellers have placed this bucket list destination in the “too dangerous” bin.

Having felt the first major quake on route to Nepal, I certainly considered doing a U-turn and ditching my dreams of exploring the mighty Himalayas. The Nepal I saw on the news looked terrifying, chaotic and devastated. A number of nervous thoughts started running through my head. Does Nepal even want tourists at the moment? Would I be causing a strain on resources, which are desperately needed by the locals? Would there be more earthquakes? Would I become a missing face on the news back home and create hell for my loved ones?

I suddenly remembered what it was like living in Queensland (Australia) when Cyclone Yasi hit. Millions of people around the world were bombarded with images that made the entire Sunshine State look like a war zone. The message? Queensland was closed to holiday-goers indefinitely. Don’t bother visiting anytime soon.

The reality on the ground was very different. Don’t get me wrong; there were several towns which had been severely affected by the cyclone. What the international community didn’t see were the many beautiful destinations that were alive and well. The result? All of Queensland (and, even, Australia) suffered the effects of a hard hit tourism industry, one of the main arteries supporting the economy. It took years for tourists numbers to get back to normal.

Then I thought about Nepal. After a few in-depth discussions with my husband, Ben and I decided to push on with our plans, see the situation for ourselves and inject some tourism dollars into the country. So, we packed our Land Rover with extra resources (food, water, petrol, and a tent) and called ahead to make sure we were welcome. The operators we spoke to all said the same thing, “Please come, we need you!”. And so our Nepal adventure began. Here’s what we experienced during our 30-day Himalayan holiday – sights, highlights, hiccups and all.

KATHMANDU

As we drove into Kathmandu, there was no denying the capital had been hit hard by earthquakes. Mammoth buildings had crumbled like concertina paper houses…I started to think we’d made the wrong decision. But then we reached Thamel.

While surrounding suburbs showed signs of damage, Thamel seemed frozen in time – a happier time. This tourist Mecca and world-renowned hippie hub was buzzing with travellers, life, and old-world charm. Before Ben and I knew it, we’d lost ourselves to the laneways and restaurants for over a week – there certainly wasn’t a shortage of food and fun! We absolutely loved the place.

During our time in Thamel, the second major quake shook Kathmandu. Based on local advice, we’d opted for a modern hotel with an open courtyard and pre-planned our emergency exit route just to be safe. While the experience was a little nerve-racking, we felt comfortable enough to stick around and continue with our plans.

POKHARA & BEGNAS LAKE

Following the footsteps of many hiking enthusiasts before us, we travelled to Pokhara in preparation for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek. While the town’s infrastructure seemed relatively unscathed by earthquake damage, tourist numbers were definitely down.

The funky pockets of Lakeside and Oldtown, once heaving with international visitors, had become tranquil urban sanctuaries. On the plus side, Ben and I were able to enjoy massages and meals on a whim – no bookings required. Staying at the luxurious Begnas Lake Resort, we had the entire place to ourselves and more support staff than we knew what to do with. While it wasn’t what we expected, the experience worked out for the best. Ben and I found the peace and quiet we needed to truly unwind.

ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP TRACK

When my husband first suggested tackling the 9-day trek to Annapurna Base Camp, I was a bit nervous. I had visions of us being taken out by landslides and avalanches triggered by earthquake tremors. So, we chose to travel with a veteran guide from InterTours who knew the mountains like the back of his hand. He assured us the track would be safe as long as we followed his lead and took precautions along the way.

Throughout our journey, we witnesses very little damage to villages and the mountains. We were encouraged to walk quickly through landslide and avalanche prone areas (which were rare and had posed a potential threat for many years), just to be safe. Thanks to our savvy and supportive guide, Ben and I enjoyed the adventure-of-a-life-time on the Annapurna Track. It was one of the most physically challenging and visually epic things we’d ever experienced. If it’s on your Bucket List, keep it there!

CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK

Chitwan was our big surprise and delight moment of the trip. Not knowing much about the area, we didn’t expect close encounters with rhinos, river baths with elephants, walks through wildlife-rich jungles, and romantic sunrise canoe rides. But that’s exactly what we got, and then some! Chitwan National Park was incredible and there were no signs of physical damage to reserve post-quake. It was teeming with cool creatures, many I’d never seen out of captivity before. The safaris were stuff of dreams and I’ll never forget them – they need to be on your itinerary if you’re planning to visit Nepal.

 

So there you have it. Nepal is still a place you should visit in the near future, just be safe and savvy while travelling around this stunning part of the world. Source local intelligence, take precautions and be smart about things.

While remote villages with significant earthquake damage will take time to recover, the main tourists hubs have more than enough resources to support locals as well as visitors. Many of the major draw cards tempting travellers to Nepal are still open for business – operators are eager and able to offer wonderful travel experiences.

If you find yourself in the heart of the Himalayas anytime soon, share your experiences through blogs, social media and beyond. Help Nepal get its positive news stories out to rest the world. There are many of them just begging to be told. 

ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP: A HIGH ALTITUDE ADVENTURE

Where there’s risk, there’s adventure. Will the experience be as good as you’d hoped? Will your body get you to the finish line? Will your spirit crumble under the pressure? Will Mother Nature decide it’s not your lucky day? Or, will you triumph in the face of these challenges, discover what you’re made of and enjoy the experience of a lifetime?

If you choose to tackle the world-renowned trek to Annapurna Base Camp, you’ll undoubtedly ask yourself these questions along the way…especially in light of the recent earthquakes. Having thrown caution to the wind and hiked my way to the Himalayan heavens, I’d like to share my brutal and unforgettably brilliant experience of the Annapurna Track.

MEET THE TEAM

Here’s the thing. I’m the kind of girl who’d rather watch movies from the comfort of a plush hotel bed than climb mountains. But, every now and then, spontaneity grabs hold of me and I leap into something stupidly epic…without training…or any knowledge of what I’m getting into. So, it’s hardly surprising that, while holidaying in Nepal, I eventually found myself signing up for the infamously gruelling Annapurna Base Camp Trek. Never mind the fact there was a strong possibility of earthquake aftershocks, landslides and avalanches.

Even more absurd was my choice of sidekicks – two freakishly fit men who’d run the entire track if I wasn’t slowing them down. My guide, Raju, had muscles on his muscles and looked like a pocked-sized Nepalese Rambo. If it were physically possible, I’d say he had 0% body fat. Then there was my husband, Ben, who’d sprinted his way along the nine Great Walks of New Zealand (545km) in nine days, setting a world record. Talk about pressure! At least I was in good hands, right?

THE TREK

So, what had I signed up for exactly? The 21-Day Annapurna Circuit was too “next level intense” for me so I opted for the 12-Day Annapurna Sanctuary Trek to Base Camp. It’d see me reach a maximum altitude of 4130m (almost twice the height of our tallest mountain back home in Oz) and cover a distance of at least 110km. It was going to be a tough slog.

Bright eyed and bushy tailed, our team of three left the land of luxury and kicked off our adventure with a gentle canoe ride across Begnas Lake. It was nice to ease into things. We could see the Annapurna Mountains in the distance and they looked like an enchanted snow-capped land from a fairy tale – and so very far away.

As the blistering heat of the day settled in, it was time to take our first steps along the track in Pokhara. After 15-minutes of razor sharp incline, I turned around to my husband and said, “What the hell am I doing? I don’t think I can do this.” Already, I was a blotchy monster with chipolata fingers, a wheeze like a severe asthmatic and sweat in places I never thought possible (elbows – WTF?!). After chugging down some water and taking a moment to breathe, I decided I could survive 12 days of trekking; I just needed to take things one step at a time – nice and slow.

By the middle of the first day, I’d become accustomed to the assault on my muscles, shoulders and heart rate. I’d learnt to zone out, let my thoughts wander away from the pain, and focus on the beauty before me. Before long, our crew had settled into a perfect routine – we continued as though on autopilot: wake at dawn, feast on porridge, slog it out until lunchtime, enjoy a carb fest, wash sweaty clothes, chill out for the afternoon, tuck into more carbs, sleep and repeat.

But don’t let our daily “humdrum” fool you. Throughout the journey, my husband and I encountered some of the most beautiful sights we’d ever witnessed. The trek was nothing short of an epic adventure. We explored bustling lowland villages, scurried under cascading waterfalls, chilled out on terraced farmlands, dodged feisty leeches in the rain, trudged through lush rhododendron forests, rattled over mighty suspension bridges, tip-toed across icy rivers, stood still in breath-taking mountain vistas and laughed our way up the snow-lined path to Annapurna Base Camp.

Getting to the finish line was like reaching nirvana. At Annapurna Base Camp, you really feel as though you’re in the land of the Gods. Surrounded by wild purple flowers, the Guest House sits at the bottom of gigantic glacial basin like a cosy village inside a snow globe. The Annapurna Mountains, reaching up to 8091m, are all encompassing. There’s nowhere to look but up. As the sun falls and the stars take its place, you’re left in awe of nature and your teeny-tiny part in it. Yep, the hard yakka was all worth it.

THE SETUP & SAFETY

The trek to Annapurna Base Camp wasn’t just a physical challenge and an opportunity to get close to nature, it also became a unique cultural experience. As we travelled from village to village, Ben and I got a taste of rural Nepalese life. After a long, tough day on the track, we loved sitting back and taking it all in: women drying spices on their roofs, men toiling over the land and keeping cattle in check, grandparents minding smiley babies, young lads unleashing their testosterone over a game of volleyball, horses carting stones along cobblestone paths, mega bees maintaining beds of technicolour roses, community dogs hunting out affection…there was enough to keep us entertained for hours.

As we retreated to our Guest House at the end of each day, we were pleasantly surprised by how kitted out they were. While most didn’t offer the luxury of a TV, but many had free Wi-Fi and solar-heated showers – bliss. They also provided uber thick blankets, mouth-watering meals often made with fresh produce from the local farms, cold beer and hot chocolate. What more could we want?

Luckily, villages were rarely more than two hours apart, which meant tea breaks were always on the horizon – a saviour waiting in the near distance. Linking the villages was a beautifully engineered pathway made of iridescent stones. They sparkled like metallic fish scales, making the journey all the more magical.

Towards the end of the trek, the path became a little more challenging. We had to race across a few frozen waterfalls and rocky boulders, where there’d been an avalanche or landslide. Thanks to our savvy guide, we learnt to forget about taking photos in these instances and move quickly along. At one point, my boots lost their grip and I started sliding down the icy mountainside. Raju pounced towards me quicker than a Nepalese snow leopard, caught my hand and pulled me to safety. Thank God for Raju!

In light of the recent earthquakes, Ben and I were glad we’d opted for a guided tour of the Annapurna Track. Our mountain guru knew the area like the back of his hand and could help us navigate the riskier parts in the safest way possible. He also monitored the weather to ensure we didn’t hike straight into dangerous territory. The Annapurna mountains are an ever-moving beast, and Raju always had a contingency plan up his sleeve for changing conditions.

If you’re thinking of tackling the Base Camp, we highly recommend having a guide. The experience, albeit gruelling in parts, felt safe for us and we came out the other side having had the time of our lives. While we encountered a few hikers going it alone, we didn’t think it was worth the risk.

CONCLUSION

The Annapurna Sanctuary Trek was every bit the adventure I’d imagined it would be…and then some. It course was physically demanding, visually thrilling and emotionally all over the place. Despite the highs and lows, I was darn proud of myself for getting to the finish line. I hope one day you’ll make the journey too. You won’t regret it.

To book your Annapurna Adventure, contact Intertours Nepal: www.intertours-nepal.com

CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK: WHAT’S YOUR SAFARI STYLE?

If “going on a safari” is on your bucket list, the odds are you haven’t considered living out this dream in Nepal. While Africa dominates the safari space, Nepal’s Chitwan National Park offers unforgettable wildlife encounters which are relatively “off the beaten track”.

Knowing little about the area and its highlights, Ben and I teamed up with Kishor from Tigerland Safari Resort for some expert guidance. Over two jam-packed days, we explored the Nepalese wilderness by foot, canoe, elephant and Jeep. Here’s how our adventures unfolded… 

ELEPHANT SAFARI

One of the most popular tourism experiences in Chitwan National Park is wandering through the dense grassland astride an elephant. Having witnesses the mistreatment of these beautiful creatures by tourism operators in other countries, I was initially uncomfortable with the idea of giving this a go. But, after speaking with the trainers at Tigerland Safari Resort and visiting the elephants in their enclosure, I was delighted by how well these beautiful creatures were being treated. If riding an elephant is your childhood dream and you can’t be talked out of it, make sure you choose an operator who cares for its wildlife in a humane way.

Exploring Chitwan National Park by elephant certainly has its advantages. It puts you on top of the world and delivers a prime view, while the wild things go about their business below. The creatures of Chitwan certainly seem unfazed around elephants, which are a natural and familiar sight.

During our sky-high safari, we came across the park’s most notorious attraction – the one-horned rhino. Despite their thick leathery armour and intimidating size, these monster mammals seemed very calm and, oddly enough, smiley. At one point, we also saw a crocodile swimming around our elephant’s toes. How close to nature can you get?!

Another special experience offered by Tigerland Safari Resort is the opportunity to bathe an elephant in the local river. After climbing on its bare back with less grace than a newborn calf, you make the journey to the water together and enjoy a communal drenching. As the elephant loads its trunk and unleashes a powerful jet down its back, your childhood Jungle Book dream comes to life. It’s a magical moment – one you’ll never forget.

A small tip if you decide an elephant safari is right up your alley: wear thick, long pants, as they will save your thighs from severe “elephant burn” (their hair isn’t particularly soft!). Wandering through the whip like grass can also lead to a nasty cuts, so chuck on a long-sleeved top and closed-in shoes, too.

WALKING SAFARI

Exploring Chitwan National Park by foot is the best way to uncover the majesty of its finer details. As you enter the dense jungle and tredge your way through the blanket of lime green foliage, your senses stand to attention. The complex natural aromas tantalise your nostrils, while the high-action theatre sends your eyes on a wild chase (monkey, peacock, boar, spotted dear, lizard, slug, sloth, strange red bug thing – where to look first?).

Then there’s the spectacular symphony of the birds and bugs. They lead the jungle in song and enchant its human visitors. Our savvy guide, Kishor, helped us decipher the different sounds and match them to their makers. Before long, he’d joined the jam session and started mimicking their melodies. It was awesome!

Our guide’s jungle genius didn’t end there. I’m not usually one to get excited about plants; but, once Kishor explained how the different species were used for local medicine, cuisine and craftsmanship, it was impossible not to be impressed.

CANOE SAFARI

Where there’s water, there’s life. Exploring Chitwan National Park by canoe will undoubtedly give you glimpses into its residents’ daily habits. Rhinos looking for a cool bath, deer stopping by for a quick drink, birds hunting for fish, locals chilling out…the rivers are hubs of constant activity.

It’s best to jump in a canoe for sunrise or sunset. The sun’s reflection on the water in the golden light makes for dreamy photographs. Plus, you’ll get to see the “changing of the guards”, as the nocturnal creatures make way for the daytime dwellers (or vice versa). The atmosphere at start and end of the day is both buzzing and beautifully calm – it’s a cool experience. 

JEEP SAFARI

Chitwan National Park covers a whopping 932km². If you want to traverse a decent chunk of this land and increase your chances of spotting the notoriously rare Bengal Tiger, a jeep safari is the way to go.

While you’d think the sound of a roaring engine would limit your chances of any noteworthy sightings, it’s strangely not the case. The drivers are pretty savvy and know when to take things slow ‘n’ steady. It’s a good idea to have binoculars or a camera with a zoom lens on hand, just in case you have to keep your distance.

As you Jeep-surf your way around the park’s like something out of Jurassic Park, you’ll get a chance to appreciate its sheer diversity. From the lush sal forest and eerie water marshes to the rippling elephant grassland and peripheral villages, every part of the park offers a different story and unique vibe. It’s easy to see why many travellers choose to stay a while.

As you can see, Chitwan National Park is the perfect place to go on safari. Whether you choose to explore the reserve by elephant, foot, canoe or Jeep, you’re guaranteed to experience many precious wildlife encounters. So, charge up your camera, grab your binoculars and step into the wild.

QUICK FACTS ABOUT CHITWAN NATIONAL PARK

• Chitwan means “Heart of the Jungle”.
• Established in 1973, it’s the first national park in Nepal.
• It was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1984.
• It’s one of the premier wildlife-viewing national parks in Asia.
• It offers a once-in-a-lifetime chance to spot the royal Bengal tiger and encounter One-Horn Rhinos.
• Many of the park’s animals were lost during the decade-long Maoist insurgency, when the Nepali army were too preoccupied with the conflict to provide adequate protection against poachers.
• In the 19^th Century, it was protected as a hunting reserve for Nepali and foreign aristocrats. Britain’s King George V and his son Edward VIII managed to slaughter a staggering 39 tigers and 18 rhinos during just one blood-soaked safari to Chitwan in 1911.
• In March 2014, Nepal celebrated a full year without poaching of endangered animals.

 

LESSONS IN HAPPINESS FROM BHUTAN

If there’s such a thing as utopia, it exists in Bhutan. You’d be hard-pressed to find a place more pure of heart. Indeed, Bhutan grabbed the world’s attention when it chose measure its success against Gross National Happiness rather than material development. But, what does Gross National Happiness mean exactly? Is there more to Bhutan’s bliss than a government paradigm?

This pocket-sized country, nestled quietly amongst the clouds, is shrouded in mystery. To better understand Bhutan and what makes it tick, Ben and I decided to spend a week exploring its dramatic landscape and quaint towns. During that time, we interviewed a monk in a monastery, a nun on a mountaintop, royalty in hotel, an NGO Program Director at a festival, and our wonderful tour guide whilst on the road.

We discovered the Bhutanese had a lot to teach the world about contentment and how individuals, communities and nations can embed happiness into every fibre of their being. Here are some of the lessons we learnt during our stay…

#1: START WITH THE RIGHT FOUNDATION

The Bhutanese have it right. From the moment little ones can walk ‘n’ talk, they are taught about happiness and how to bring it into their own lives. In fact, schools include happiness lessons in their curriculum! Lesson #1: focus on developing admirable human qualities.

When you meet a Bhutanese person, you instinctively sense they’re a good egg. They come across as friendly, patient, compassionate, disciplined, humble, genuine and ultra respectful – qualities which are instilled in them throughout their entire lives. Motivated by their devout Buddhist beliefs, they’re pure of heart, mind and intention. It brings them joy, inner peace and a whole lot of good karma.

#2: PUT YOUR PRIORITIES ON A PEDESTAL

The Bhutanese ensure their core values (Buddhist and beyond) are front and centre in their lives. In many other parts of the world, it’s a case of “out of sight, out of mind”. People lead work-oriented lives until December comes around when they remember to spend time with loved ones, help members of the community, touch base with their spirituality, and re-evaluate their goals. By January, all is practically forgotten and back to work they go. Their day-to-day lifestyles don’t don’t reflect what’s truly important to them. As a result, they feel stressed, dissatisfied, lost and down in the dumps way too often.

For the Bhutanese, Buddhism is thickly woven throughout every aspect of their lives. From prayer flags atop razor sharp mountains to homes lathered in mystical designs, religious iconography makes itself known at every turn serving as a constant reminder of people’s core values, goals and priorities. It’s almost impossible to “go off track” and lose sight of what’s important. Rituals play an equally significant role in Bhutanese life. Meditation and seeking guidance from deities or monks are regular practices, helping people make focused decisions which are inline with their desired trajectory.

Lesson #2: whatever your source of bliss (family, philanthropy, religion, sport, business, academia, art and beyond), it should be championed by your lifestyle. Don’t let it take a back seat while you get distracted by stress and humdrum routines. Create daily rituals which preserve and inspire your dreams. Set up visual queues, which keep your priorities top of mind. Live and breathe your core values. Build your happy place.

#3: DO YOUR BEST TO HELP THE REST

The Bhutanese are one of the most compassionate, community-oriented races on earth. They’re acutely aware of suffering and actively help those facing hardship. Even a poor farmer with little to give will offer what he can to those in need. So it seems, brightening someone’s day offers the ultimate compensation – the “feel good factor”.

Beyond helping the distressed, the Bhutanese also avoid causing pain…even when it comes to animals. The only form of legal “hunting” is fishing, which is approved on a catch and release basis. All living creatures roam free without the fear of being killed for food, fun or fear. This anecdote about my guide demonstrates just how caring the Bhutanese can be…

One night, Ben and I were being attacked by some particularly aggressive mosquitoes. We started swatting them with our hands, hoping to terminate the little tykes. All the while, our guide sat calmly and did nothing. When we asked him why, he said he couldn’t intentionally kill a living creature as it would bring about bad karma. Plus, he didn’t mind sharing his blood with the mozzies, as they needed it to survive. Needless to say, we felt pretty guilty after that.

To sum things up, the Bhutanese believe every action inspires an equal reaction. When you act selfishly or cause harm to others, it’ll leave a bad taste in your mouth and come back to bite you. If you’re compassionate and generous, you can rest easy and trust that help will find you when you need it. Lesson #3: Helping others breeds happiness, inner peace and a sense of security.

#4 KEEP IT SIMPLE

From they day they’re born, the Bhutanese learn to find happiness in the simple life. Kids play with blades of grass, sticks or worn out rubber tires. If these things break or go missing, no worries. They’re free and easy to replace. Western children, who tend to prefer the latest techno-gadgets, are much more susceptible to stress, anger, envy and other negative emotions. What if my Playsation is older than yours? What if my iPad won’t connect to the internet? What if my iPhone smashes and my parents have to spend hundreds of dollars on a new one? Lesson #4: get back to basics and avoid unnecessary stress.

During my time at Tiger’s Nest Monastery, I had the opportunity to speak with a monk. He said it was a difficult path to take as a young boy because he didn’t have access to certain luxuries (e.g. TV) like other children. But, as time went on, his contentment surpassed his peers’, as they’s acquired the stresses of family, work, city and contemporary life. The monk, on the other hand, spent his days meditating and studying Buddhism in the company of nature. His life was simple, yet completely fulfilling.

I’m not saying the path of a devout Buddhist monk or nun is the only way to find happiness. The principle of omitting unnecessary stresses from your life and taking time to enjoy simple pleasures has merit. For me, baking a cake, reading a book and chatting to my mum bring me more smiles than my inbox. Yet, the latter gets a lot more of my time. It makes absolutely no sense.

#5 BE PATIENT & GOVERN FOR THE GOOD OF ALL

It’s hard to imagine a government which genuinely champions equality amongst its people, makes decisions for the good of all, and protects the environment. But, Bhutan’s leaders seem to be doing exactly that, achieving Gross National happiness along the way.

What’s they key to their success? They take things one step at a time. Acting in haste to keep up with the rest of the world is not Bhutan’s style. Until the 1960’s it had no roads, automobiles, telephone, postal system or electricity. Limited access to TV and the internet wasn’t enabled until 1999, once people had been taught how to manage the pros and cons of this technology (dinner in front of the telly with everyone absorbed in mobile phones doesn’t constitute family time in Bhutan).

This cautious country has been so patient with its decisions, it’s managed to skip the horrors of the Industrial Revolution and jump straight to the 21st century. With a strong focus on sustainability, it’s become the only “carbon sink” in the world; Bhutan actually creates more energy than it uses! Unlike most of Asia, its towns are in spit spot condition. Litter is scarce, electrical wires are hidden, buildings look immaculate, pollution is undetectable and operations run smoothly. Taking time to observe the experiences of other countries, Bhutan has been able to get things right for the good of its people and the environment.

While signs of democracy are steadily weaving their way into Bhutan, this transition isn’t being rushed either (Bhutan had its first general election in 2008). To ensure the divide between rich and poor doesn’t spiral out of control, the government is balancing the scales with an egalitarian approach. This can be seen in Bhutan’s management of tourism. It cost Ben and me $2500 as a couple to tour the country for a week. The majority of this tariff was absorbed by the government and distributed throughout the community (focusing on areas in need, e.g. regional housing development). This means, the entire country benefits from tourism, not just the operators.

Even the Royal Family is working hard support less affluent communities. Due to the small population of Bhutan (approx. 700,000), it’s able to keep its finger on the pulse and recognise those who are underprivileged. Heading a number of charities which ensure people’s basic needs are met (especially in remote communities), the royals (and NGOs) are careful not to go overboard. Their perspective? If the people are happy as they are, why try to change them and and inject dissatisfaction into their lives (i.e. a desire for more)?

Lesson #5: Think before you act; take your time considering the outcomes; and, make a decision which supports the well-being of all parties involved – there’s always a way. This will inspire loyalty, trust, unity and contentment amongst the community. This philosophy rings true when it comes to leading countries, families, interest groups and beyond.

CONCLUSION

After visiting Bhutan, I was in two minds. One one hand, I felt deeply saddened by the experience. It made me realise how much suffering, negativity, discord and inequality was being nurtured by other countries. Crossing the border from Bhutan straight into India was a shock to the system! On the flip side, Bhutan was proof that purity still existed in the world. I was surprised and delighted by this unassuming country, which genuinely felt like the happiest place on earth. Bhutan has so much to teach the world, I hope it marches to the beat of its own drum for many years to come.

CHERRAPUNJI & THE LIVING ROOT BRIDGES

Sometimes, it’s good to live on the edge and throw your plans out the window. A few days ago, we did just that. The result? We encountered the type of travel we’d been dreaming about: raw, challenging, and unforgettable.

Our original schedule had us sprinting to Darjeeling so we could munch on scones and wander amongst the tea fields for a few days. As we shared our intentions with a curious Guwahati resident, he suggested we divert our attention to Cherrapunji. Loved by locals, this unique township and epic natural playground was rarely explored by international tourists. It sounded like North East India’s best-kept secret. We were sold!

Jumping in our Landy, we made our way up towards the Khasi Hills (a hop, skip and jump away from Bangladesh). During our ascent, we became increasingly aware of the strong military presence. It was a little intimidating, so we smiled our way through it and carried on as quickly as possible.

Before long, the surrounding landscape took on a different aesthetic, one which was reminiscent of the Scottish countryside or New Zealand’s south Island. Having climbed 1900m, we’d finally reached the top of the v-shaped mountain plateau. New air started to filter through our lungs. It was crisp, fresh and invigorating, especially compared to sea level India.

As we continued our journey along the top of the plateau, the towns flying past our windows became simpler – more tribal. So it seemed, we were now in the land of the Khasi people…and boy were they tiny. Most of the villagers had to be less than 5ft tall and their faces were strikingly intense. The elderly seemed to hide their stories in the deep, leathery creases around their eyes. They were hypnotising.

From what we could tell, most of the villagers (men, women, seniors and many children) spent their days working on subsistence farms. Considering the Khasi Hills were literally the wettest place on earth, it must have been a tough existence. Their miniature homes looked well-and-truly battle worn, as though they hadn’t quite withstood the wild thunderstorms and relentless rain.

As our stomachs started to protest their hunger, we came across a well-kept country cottage which stood out like a royal palace. Much to our delight, it was called “Café Cherrapunjee” and it was open (everything else up the mountain had been closed due to a community strike). Not only was this café a top-rating restaurant on Trip Advisor, it also offered a hearty menu, spotless toilets and brilliantly absurd ambient music (I’m talking ABBA, country and easy-listening saxophone). We were happy.

Too soon, it was time to jump back in the Landy and tackle the last stretch of road leading to the centre of Cherrapunji. The sky suddenly awoke from its rare slumber, swirling threateningly above our heads and getting darker by the minute. The dusty blue clouds drifted towards the heavens from the depths of the valley, making it look like a steaming witch’s cauldron. It was an eerie sight.

To make things just that little bit creepier, hundreds of crosses and gravestones decorated the hills around us. The weathered shops and rickety homes brought little warmth to the situation, as they were locked up tight due to the strike. It felt like ghost town…or a mad set for a zombie film.

Finally, we caught sight of our accommodation, the Kutmadan Resort. A beacon of comfort, respite and a little luxury, it also had front row seats to the vast plains of Bangladesh. Surely this was the best panoramic view in town, perfect for a brag-worthy sunrise shot. But, for now, it was time to hide under a cuddly blanket and fall asleep as the storm took hold of the night. Ground-shaking thunder, sky-splitting lightening bolts, pounding rain…it was actually kind of magical.

As we woke up to a beautiful day, blue skies and all, we were ready to complete our journey with a visit to the Living Root Bridges. While they’re the star attraction of Cherrapunji, a plethora of experiences await the curious traveller, including: caves, zip-line challenges and countless waterfalls.

Due to time constraints, we chose to stick with the big ticket item. Descending into the depths of the valley, we eventually reached the startline of our walk. Did I mention the track was made completely of stairs? There were thousands of them, to be exact, and they’d obviously been designed for the locals’ petite feet. Indeed, a number of villagers’ passed us at breakneck speed, despite having serious cargo on their backs.

As we completed the last few steps and caught our first glimpse of the Living Root Bridges, we quickly bumbled about for our cameras. They were more spectacular than we’d imagined. Over hundreds of years, their spaghetti-like roots and branches had been trained into a natural, everlasting masterpiece. We couldn’t wait to take a closer look and then wash the sweat and grime away with a dip in the freshwater stream below. This place was heaven and, in that moment, it was ours.

What goes down, must come up. While the journey to Cherrapunji and the Living Root Bridges was just as riveting as our final destination, we had a feeling the trip back was going to be a little more strenuous. Oh well, it was totally worth it.

HAPPY DAY 15 // THE UNEXPECTED MAGIC OF MAE SOT

So excited by the prospect of Myanmar, we certainly didn’t expect Mae Sot, a quaint border post town, to steal our attention. But it certainly stopped us in our tracks – even from the distant outskirts.They were like nothing we’d ever seen in Thailand. Wasn’t it all just epic beaches, party islands and chilled out villages?

As we continued on the road to Mae Sot, it cut a mighty path through the surrounding lime green canopies. It felt as through the trees would come crashing down on us at any moment like something out of an Indiana Jones movie. But we raced on through and made it out the other side of that gloriously wild tunnel.

What we stumbled across next was simply marvellous. Thousands of playful butterflies encircled our Landy, as if they were the next part of our adventure course. It was a moment  where we simply had to join in the fun and let stupid grins take over our faces. It was time to dance with nature.

Barely 20km out from Mae Sot, we spotted a blip on the map which looked like a promising dinner spot. After taking our detour through Taksinmaharat National Park, we quickly discovered it was more like a school camping ground and it was utterly deserted. So we went exploring…

Lucky for us, it delivered some truly spectacular view points. We felt like we were on top of the world (or Thailand), looking out from a mountain top, as the breeze danced through our hair and the sunset sunk behind the distant range.

As the darkness descended on us, it was time to refocus and get settled in Mae Sot! Thanks to the wonderfully hospitable Land Rover Owners’ Club in Thailand, we’d been set up in a little sanctuary just outside of the town. At a glance, our room looked like a quaint little cabin with lots of character. Inside, it contained everything we could possible need or want: a double bed, a fridge, a separate bathroom, air-con, fans and a TV with 424 channels. Bliss!

The next day we took to the town. It had a lot more life to it than we expected. While it doesn’t take long to get to know the place, there’s a lot packed into its tiny city centre.

I should have read up on the dress code a bit more. There I was, strutting down the street in my Phuket-style beach clothes (shorts, bikini and a sea-through top) only to discover the women were covered from head to toe. They giggled at me as I walked past – the men seemed confused.

We decided to escape the heat and funny glances by going for a Thai massage. My masseuse kept getting distracted by my sunburn. Every now and then I felt her peeling the skin off my shoulders – gross! Oh well, it’s nice to know the ape-like tendency to preen each other exists between strangers as well as loved ones in Thailand.

Before we knew it, night had fallen and it was time to feast. Mae Sot picks up its pace at night, and there seemed to be two main roads which hosted hungry diners. One was loaded with bars and “glitzy” restaurants. The other was lined with street food carts. We opted for the later.

As we made our way towards the market square, we randomly ran into our soon-to-be travel buddies (in order to drive across Myanmar you need to be part of a guided tour group). We spent the next couple of hours exchanging enthusiastic introductions, local food, travel stories and questions about Myanmar. After we bid adieu to our newfound friends and drifted into the land of dreams, we realised how little we knew about our next destination. At least that meant it was going to be an adventure.

HAPPY DAY 14 // THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR

The clock struck four, when Ben’s phone told us it was time to get our butts out of bed. Today was a special day, so I wasn’t in my usual pre-breakfast zombie-like state. Despite the fact that it was closer to my bedtime than my usual waking time, I felt energised. The infamous Angkor Wat was waiting for us.

After a quick tuk-tuk ride and the usual ticketing booth formalities, we commenced the walk towards that enchanting, world-renowned silhouette, our anticipation building with each step. The deep beat of jungle drums drifted through the air, setting the mood perfectly. The impressive crowd of tourists was in a quiet trance-like state, waiting for the stage lights to switch on and the star attraction to make itself known. For now, Angkor Wat was sitting in the shadows, lit only by a thin lip of burnt orange and fuschia. And so we waited…

As we ensconced ourselves in the dewy grass and sat back with our sugar-loaded coffees, the sun slowly came out to play. The glassy dam between us and the Mother of all Temples captured her reflection in all of its glory. As Angkor Wat rose from her slumber, it seemed like she’d brought a mirror to her face just to make sure everything was in order before we snapped away like crazed paparazzi.

After the big moment had come and gone, it was time to enter the gates of Angkor Wat and take a closer look. She was more magnificent than I’d imagined – like a long-limbed lady covered in ornate henna tattoos. Her walls and corridors stretched far and wide, every inch of them covered in curious engravings, stunning motifs and precious sculptures.

The wave of tourists quickly dissipated, as people wandered off in different directions and got lost amongst the endless network of hallways and doorways. The architectural symmetry was simply genius, messing with my head like a giant mirrored maze. Every way I looked and turned, there was a stunning, rustic frame staring back at me. It was a photographer’s paradise.

Soon it was time to move on to Bayon, the next temple in our tour. We went on the hunt for our tuk-tuk driver, which proved to be a serious challenge. The carpark looked like it was hosting a tuk-tuk rally. At this point, we realised we should have photographed our driver and his vehicle before wandering off.

Eventually we heard our voices being called in the distance – once lost, we’d been found. After a short drive, our team of three was delivered to the doorstep of Bayon, which captured our attention immediately. Decorated with 126 mammoth faces, it’s thought to be a narcissistic shrine to King Jayavarman VII, the mastermind behind the Temples of Angkor. Witnessing the majesty of his vision, I couldn’t help but think he had the right to be pleased with himself.

Next, it was time to tackle the popular Temple of Ta Prohm. A perfect union between divine ruins and mother nature, it was nothing short of spectacular. The roots of the silk-cotton trees had grown through the temple walls like veins keeping a heart alive. I could see why Tomb Raider had been filmed here. The atmosphere was truly magical. I found myself being transported back to the 12th Century, when Ta Prohm had housed hundreds of dancers, high priests, gold, pearls, silks and beyond. It sounded like a dream.

Over the course of the next couple of hours we went on to view a few more historic sites. They were all dwarfed by Angkor Wat and its cool cousins. As my husband put it, “It’s hard to get excited by foreplay after sex.” Having said that, watching the sun rise over Angkor Wat proved to be a memorable, must-see moment. In hindsight, we should have bought a three-day pass, so we could better appreciate the lesser known attractions and work our way up to the main event.

To complete our once-in-a-lifetime experience of Angkor Wat, we decided to see the grounds from a different perspective – “gibbon view”. I’d been craving an adrenalin rush for a while and Flight of the Gibbon sounded right up my alley. Guiding us through a series of sky-high zip lines, tree houses and bridge walks, it certainly got my heart pumping. I’m usually good with heights, but when our tiny 150m-high platform started swaying in the wind, I quickly conjured up an escape plan. Surely jumping towards the nearest branch and holding on for dear life would save me?

After three hours of flying between the trees, our group finally had the swing of things. I was racing across the barely-there bridges and dangling from the wires like a pro-gibbon – no sweat. I could see why Flight of the Gibbon was killing it on Trip Advisor. The experience was the right kind of challenging and certainly thrilling, offering a change of pace to the temple tours. And, by the end of the day, I was all “templed out”.

HAPPY DAY 13 // EXPLORING THE MARKETS, MEKONG AND THE MYSTICAL

Visiting the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek was a gut-wrenching experience. It was hard to believe that around 25% of Cambodians were killed during the brutal reign of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, and the mass genocide commenced merely a month after my husband was born. Bones and fragments of clothing were still visible in the soil, giving us a sharp glimpse of the indescribable horror. It all seemed too fresh.

After our tour of the Killing Fields, we hurried back to the vibrancy of central Phnom Penh to remind ourselves how far the country and its people had come. We hit up the highly regarded Central Market, which is located in and around an epic dome structure that’s hard to miss. Here, we found everything from technicolour wigs and glitzy bling to fru fru frocks and fake watches. But the best part was undoubtedly the food market.

The pungent aroma of unrefrigerated meat mixed with local spices hit us before the wild visual. Mountains of exotic fruit, fresh seafood, colourful grains and unrecognisable proteins – I couldn’t decide what to inspect first! After an hour of being laughed at by the stall holders (“Haha! Why lady take fifty photo of my shrimp? Crazy tourist-lady!”), we sat down for a quick bite to eat. Unsure of the meat products contained within our dumplings and soups, we decided not to think about it and simply tuck in. They were delicious.

To end the day, we made our way to the esplanade and hopped on a sunset cruise along the Mekong River. It only set the three of us back $20 USD in total and we had the boat all to ourselves for an hour. It was a perfect way to escape the hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh and see the city from another perspective.

The next morning, it was time to pack our bags and make the journey to Siem Reap. The 8-hour road trip was bumpy, dusty and eye-opening. My brain was ticking the entire way, as I watched the hard-working men, women, children and animals along the highway. I found myself wishing I had time to stay with a rural family for a while, so I could understand their lives better. It looked like a tough gig.

As the sun set on another day we sluggishly rolled into Siem Reap, sweaty and coated in Cambodian dirt. The place was lit up like a Christmas tree and seemed to host a hotel for every tourist…and there were a lot of tourists. If this was anything to go by, Angkor Wat was going to be heaving in the morning!

HAPPY DAY 11 // THE ROAD TO PHNOM PENH

This morning, my backyard was a precious beach off the North Eastern Coast of Thailand. We’d left Bangkok late the day before and decided to pitch a tent around sun down. That call placed us in this unknown destination, which turned out to be our favourite pseudo camping spot yet.

As we wearily rolled our Rover onto the sand, the unexpected sound of singing filled the air. It appeared a jovial group of Thais were engaged in a drunken karaoke session. They were belting out the lyrics to “My Heart Will Go On” in their Thai-English accents. It was enough to send us over the edge and into fits of laughter. It’d been a long day.

The next morning, we woke to the soothing sound of the waves. We had a quick bath in the warm ocean, as the local kids curiously watched on. After a lazy start to the day, we finally hit the road again and made our way towards the Cambodian border followed by Phnom Penh. 

Over the course of the day, we whizzed past a some spectacular sites. I was like a kid on her first road trip – glued to the car window, eyes wide open. Floating fishing villages were proudly on display, with vibrant colours giving their communities a beautiful energy. Entire families were working the land alongside water buffalos. It was all new to me. Exciting to watch.

I wondered what Phnom Penh was going to be like. Let’s just say it was a shock to the system. I’ll explain why in my next blog.