THE MANY FACES OF MUMBAI

Mumbai (a.k.a. Bombay) is a city of wild and wonderful extremes. Sustaining over 20 million residents, India’s most populous city is home to dreamers, hard-labourers, actors, gangsters, artists, servants, fisher folk, millionaires and everything in between. It’s the glittering epicentre of Bollywood, the world’s most prolific film industry, and it proudly possesses some of the world’s most expensive real estate. Yet, Mumbai is also renowned for its mammoth slums and ultra-gritty markets. So it seems, this eclectic city captures all of the beauty and ugliness of the human condition. But, that’s exactly what makes it so captivating. Here are some of the things I love most about Mumbai – the good, the great and the ugly.

BOLLYWOOD

Churning out over 900 films a year, Bollywood is the global goliath of the movie world. When visiting Mumbai, the heart of India’s film industry, it’s sacrilegious not to see a Bollywood flick. I convinced Ben to see ABCD2, which was like Step Up on steroids. Despite having zero understanding of Hindi, I figured dance was an international language we’d be able to make sense of. Indeed, I was instantly entranced by Bollywood’s winning escapist formula, as all-singing, all-dancing lovers fought to conquer the forces keeping them apart.

During our night at the movies, Ben and I discovered Indian cinemas played the national anthem before each screening – how patriotic! We also heard Bollywood studios often scouted Western extras to star in their films and add a whiff of international flair. Unfortunately, we missed out on our ten minutes of fame. Bollywood stars, on the other hand, seemed to have God-like status throughout Mumbai and all of India.

FASHION

Just like in Hollywood, where an intense celebrity culture is coupled with fashion fanatics, Mumbai is both the movie star and fashion capital of India. From the mountains of sparkly accessories at the Bandra street markets to the couture boutiques which line the streets of Juhu, it’s a bit overwhelming. But, once you get the hang of haggling and sorting the chintz from the special stuff, shopping becomes an entertaining tourist experience. I chose to escape the crowds and play dress ups at Bandhej in the Grand Hyatt Plaza. While in India, I couldn’t miss out on the chance to wear some traditional clothing, which I’d never be able to get on without the help of a local! Before long, I was happily drowning in a rainbow of colour. Indian women sure know how to stand out. No matter which region or caste they’re from, they all seem to put serious effort into their style, from the ornate jewellery and striking make-up they wear, to the perfectly layered clothing and coordinated shoes adorning their bodies. Indian women are the ultimate “glamourzons” – especially in Mumbai.

MARKETS

Before reaching Mumbai, I had visions of people being packed into the place like sardines. Ben and I feared it would be a nightmare to navigate, especially considering we were driving our own car. While India’s biggest city certainly has an element of overcrowded madness, there’s a fast-paced rhythm to the place which seems to keep things moving like a perfectly choreographed dance. The locals know the steps and it doesn’t take long for tourists to get the swing of things.

Nowhere is Mumbai’s organised chaos more apparent than at the markets. While Chow Bazaar (a.k.a. the Thieves Market) is a popular shopping haunt, especially amongst those seeking antiques and furniture, my top pick is the Crawford Market. It’s the ultimate tourist theatre, with locals and vendors haggling their way towards high-action melodrama while stray animals form sneaky side plots. It’s fascinating viewing, but you should also become part of the production!

If peace and quiet are what you seek, you’ll need to wander past the pet arena through to the meat market. Be warned – it’s strictly for the brave (hence the less hectic vibe). The lack of hygiene is wildly shocking and grabs you by the guts – I’d never seen anything like it before. But, while the viewing is tough, the workers are super friendly. Be sure to strike up a conversation with them, as their life stories are fascinating. Their kids play cricket around the corner. It’s worth wading through the mountains of rotting garbage to join them for a match – Mumbai-style.

SLUMS

Shantytowns and slums are very much a part of Mumbai city life, with over 60% of the population calling them home. To really get under the skin of India’s biggest city, it’s important to witness this part of the local culture. Ben and I ventured to Dharavi, Asia’s biggest and Mumbia’s most renowned slum. Thanks to Hollywood’s interpretation of street life in Slumdog Millionaire, Dharavi turned out to be a lot friendlier and grittier than I expected. While I’m sure there are some dodgy dealings in this part of town, I felt completely safe exploring the dusty alleyways and busy thoroughfares. The locals turned into shy gigglepots whenever we asked to take their photos – they were delightful and never asked for money in return. Their houses were cleverly built from a resourceful mix of materials, including corrugated iron, garbage and concrete. Surprisingly, most were kitted out with kitchens and electricity.

On the flip side, where Hollywood tends to make even the foulest conditions look picturesque, Dharavi was pretty darn dingy. It was like a city, within a city – a far cry from the lavish lanes of Mumbai’s affluent peninsular situated merely a hop, skip and jump away. The sewer-lined streets were shrouded in gut-wrenching aromas, from rotting garbage to human excrement. The waterways were a bubbling grey-green colour I’d never seen before. It was a complete assault to the senses. Yet, many families (including young adults with white collar jobs), had happily lived here for generations. While Dharavi seems shambled at first glance, there’s obviously a strong sense of community and habitual way of life which offers a compelling living environment.

PLUSH PROPERTIES

In a country where 30% of people live below the poverty line, Mumbai is a beacon of unabashed opulence. Amongst the shantytowns and slums are pockets of elegance filled with fantastical architecture. The affluent southern tip of Mumbai’s peninsular is home to the world’s most expensive private property – Antilia. Valued at $1 billion USD, it’s maintained by a staff of 600 and enjoyed by not a single soul. Owned by India’s wealthiest man, business magnate Mukesh Ambani, it’s rumoured his wife didn’t agree with the property’s feng shui and refused to reside within its stately walls. Built on a block which was formerly occupied by an orphanage, many of the locals see Antilia as a big middle finger. Whether or not the gossip is true or justified, this state-of-the-art skyscaper is still worth a peak.

The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is another example of Mumbai’s lavish side, presenting a fairytale blend of Islamic and Renaissance architectural styles. This sumptuous hotel is a popular respite destination amongst the international elite. If you can’t afford to live like royalty for a night or experience one of the Taj’s fine-dining restaurants, it’s still worth taking a look inside and pretending like you own the place. Alternatively, you can enjoy a gentle stroll (or horse-drawn carriage ride) around its perfect perimeter. The public square, which sits next to the hotel and hugs the Mumbai Harbour, has become a favourite gathering spot amongst locals and tourists alike. It’s also home to the Gateway of India, a bold basalt arch of colonial triumph, which further enhances the grandeur of this palatial precinct.

WORLD-CLASS DINING

Mumbai offers a gastronomical adventure like nowhere else in India. Due to the well-moneyed and cosmopolitan crowds which flock to this high-energy city, the cuisine on offer is truly mind-blowing. My two favourite food experiences were at Social Offline and the Grand Hyatt Hotel. The latter took my stomach on a glorious round-the-world trip from Italy, China, Japan and Thailand all the way back to India. It’s worth sleeping over for a few nights, just so you can sample your way through the Grand Hyatt’s many restaurants and some of the best food Mumbai has to offer. From the thin-crust pizzas which dissipate in your mouth to the impossibly tender peking duck which delights your soul, it’s little wonder this hotel attracts movers and shakers from Mumbai and beyond.

Ben and I stumbled across Social Offline while we were exploring the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Too cheap to splurge on a five-star lunch, we looked to one of the surrounding restaurants for a feed. What we discovered at the highly affordable Social Offline knocked our socks off. The fusion of British and Indian recipes delivered an unexpected thrill to our tastebuds, from the lightly spiced and perfectly battered fish ‘n’ chips Ben devoured to the melt-in-the-mouth pastry which cuddled my curried vegetable pie. If only we’d had room to try the Chocolate Blood Bath with brownie, truffle and fudge. So it seemed, when world-class international and Indian chefs came together, the menus were magic.

CONCLUSION

If you thought Mumbai was merely a grimy, over-crowded city, think again. Its many facets will surprise and delight you, whisking you between worlds of divine grandeur and hypnotically raw street life. Mumbai, with all of it’s complex and contrasting layers, offers a well-rounded glimpse into Indian culture, aspirations, challenges and ideals. It’s unquestionably a must-visit if you plan to explore India.

BEWITCHED BY HAMPI

Before arriving in India, Hampi had been on my bucket list for a while…but, I couldn’t tell you why. For some unknown reason, it was one of the few places I could name in India. Perhaps I’d heard wonderful whispers about Hampi without really taking them in. While I knew I wanted to visit this mysterious place, I didn’t have a clue what made it special. So, as Ben and I approached this tourist Mecca, I tucked into some research. Here are a few insights which caught my attention:

• Hampi, which means “champion”, is located within the infamous ruins of Vijayanagara, the former capital of the Vijayanagara Empire.
• The ruins are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• Hampi formed one of the core areas of the Vijayanagara Empire from 1343 to 1565. It was chosen because of its strategic location, bounded by the torrential Tungabhadra River on one side and surrounded by defensible hills on its other three sides.
• Hampi continues to be a significant historical, architectural and religious site. It’s home to many notable Hindu temples, some of which are still active places of worship.
• The extant monuments of Vijayanagara (or Hampi) can be divided into Religious, Civil and Military buildings.
• While most of the monuments in Hampi are from the Vijayanagara period, a small proportion have been assigned to pre-Vijayanagara times. The first historical settlements in Hampi date back to 1CE!

While these insights were certainly fascinating, it wasn’t until Ben and I arrived in Hampi that we understood why it was a major pit stop on the traveller circuit. We were spellbound from the moment we laid eyes on the mars-like landscape. It was so different to anything we’d seen before – a sea of giant boulders perched precariously over miles of undulated terrain, their rusty hues offset by zesty green palm groves, banana plantations and paddy fields. A perfect azure sky, peppered with fluffy white Simpson’s clouds, enhanced the epic atmosphere. The forlorn ruins seemed scattered across Hampi’s dramatic scenery, their former beauty still glimmering through the harsh destruction of time.

Before long, Ben and I had lost ourselves to the ancient relics. With only a half day available to explore Hampi, we stuck to the area’s main attractions, including the Vittala Temple and its iconic stone chariot, market corridors and musical pillars. Wandering through the mammoth temple entrance, we were transported to a bygone era. It’s ornate walls oozed secrets from the past – the architecture was mesmerising.

As Ben and I wrapped up our time in Hampi and started our journey to Goa, we watched the legendary landscape fly past our car windows in distracted silence. It was amazing to see how millions of years of volcanic activity and erosion could result in a beautifully bewitching backdrop. If only we’d had time to linger a little longer.

LESSONS IN HAPPINESS FROM BHUTAN

If there’s such a thing as utopia, it exists in Bhutan. You’d be hard-pressed to find a place more pure of heart. Indeed, Bhutan grabbed the world’s attention when it chose measure its success against Gross National Happiness rather than material development. But, what does Gross National Happiness mean exactly? Is there more to Bhutan’s bliss than a government paradigm?

This pocket-sized country, nestled quietly amongst the clouds, is shrouded in mystery. To better understand Bhutan and what makes it tick, Ben and I decided to spend a week exploring its dramatic landscape and quaint towns. During that time, we interviewed a monk in a monastery, a nun on a mountaintop, royalty in hotel, an NGO Program Director at a festival, and our wonderful tour guide whilst on the road.

We discovered the Bhutanese had a lot to teach the world about contentment and how individuals, communities and nations can embed happiness into every fibre of their being. Here are some of the lessons we learnt during our stay…

#1: START WITH THE RIGHT FOUNDATION

The Bhutanese have it right. From the moment little ones can walk ‘n’ talk, they are taught about happiness and how to bring it into their own lives. In fact, schools include happiness lessons in their curriculum! Lesson #1: focus on developing admirable human qualities.

When you meet a Bhutanese person, you instinctively sense they’re a good egg. They come across as friendly, patient, compassionate, disciplined, humble, genuine and ultra respectful – qualities which are instilled in them throughout their entire lives. Motivated by their devout Buddhist beliefs, they’re pure of heart, mind and intention. It brings them joy, inner peace and a whole lot of good karma.

#2: PUT YOUR PRIORITIES ON A PEDESTAL

The Bhutanese ensure their core values (Buddhist and beyond) are front and centre in their lives. In many other parts of the world, it’s a case of “out of sight, out of mind”. People lead work-oriented lives until December comes around when they remember to spend time with loved ones, help members of the community, touch base with their spirituality, and re-evaluate their goals. By January, all is practically forgotten and back to work they go. Their day-to-day lifestyles don’t don’t reflect what’s truly important to them. As a result, they feel stressed, dissatisfied, lost and down in the dumps way too often.

For the Bhutanese, Buddhism is thickly woven throughout every aspect of their lives. From prayer flags atop razor sharp mountains to homes lathered in mystical designs, religious iconography makes itself known at every turn serving as a constant reminder of people’s core values, goals and priorities. It’s almost impossible to “go off track” and lose sight of what’s important. Rituals play an equally significant role in Bhutanese life. Meditation and seeking guidance from deities or monks are regular practices, helping people make focused decisions which are inline with their desired trajectory.

Lesson #2: whatever your source of bliss (family, philanthropy, religion, sport, business, academia, art and beyond), it should be championed by your lifestyle. Don’t let it take a back seat while you get distracted by stress and humdrum routines. Create daily rituals which preserve and inspire your dreams. Set up visual queues, which keep your priorities top of mind. Live and breathe your core values. Build your happy place.

#3: DO YOUR BEST TO HELP THE REST

The Bhutanese are one of the most compassionate, community-oriented races on earth. They’re acutely aware of suffering and actively help those facing hardship. Even a poor farmer with little to give will offer what he can to those in need. So it seems, brightening someone’s day offers the ultimate compensation – the “feel good factor”.

Beyond helping the distressed, the Bhutanese also avoid causing pain…even when it comes to animals. The only form of legal “hunting” is fishing, which is approved on a catch and release basis. All living creatures roam free without the fear of being killed for food, fun or fear. This anecdote about my guide demonstrates just how caring the Bhutanese can be…

One night, Ben and I were being attacked by some particularly aggressive mosquitoes. We started swatting them with our hands, hoping to terminate the little tykes. All the while, our guide sat calmly and did nothing. When we asked him why, he said he couldn’t intentionally kill a living creature as it would bring about bad karma. Plus, he didn’t mind sharing his blood with the mozzies, as they needed it to survive. Needless to say, we felt pretty guilty after that.

To sum things up, the Bhutanese believe every action inspires an equal reaction. When you act selfishly or cause harm to others, it’ll leave a bad taste in your mouth and come back to bite you. If you’re compassionate and generous, you can rest easy and trust that help will find you when you need it. Lesson #3: Helping others breeds happiness, inner peace and a sense of security.

#4 KEEP IT SIMPLE

From they day they’re born, the Bhutanese learn to find happiness in the simple life. Kids play with blades of grass, sticks or worn out rubber tires. If these things break or go missing, no worries. They’re free and easy to replace. Western children, who tend to prefer the latest techno-gadgets, are much more susceptible to stress, anger, envy and other negative emotions. What if my Playsation is older than yours? What if my iPad won’t connect to the internet? What if my iPhone smashes and my parents have to spend hundreds of dollars on a new one? Lesson #4: get back to basics and avoid unnecessary stress.

During my time at Tiger’s Nest Monastery, I had the opportunity to speak with a monk. He said it was a difficult path to take as a young boy because he didn’t have access to certain luxuries (e.g. TV) like other children. But, as time went on, his contentment surpassed his peers’, as they’s acquired the stresses of family, work, city and contemporary life. The monk, on the other hand, spent his days meditating and studying Buddhism in the company of nature. His life was simple, yet completely fulfilling.

I’m not saying the path of a devout Buddhist monk or nun is the only way to find happiness. The principle of omitting unnecessary stresses from your life and taking time to enjoy simple pleasures has merit. For me, baking a cake, reading a book and chatting to my mum bring me more smiles than my inbox. Yet, the latter gets a lot more of my time. It makes absolutely no sense.

#5 BE PATIENT & GOVERN FOR THE GOOD OF ALL

It’s hard to imagine a government which genuinely champions equality amongst its people, makes decisions for the good of all, and protects the environment. But, Bhutan’s leaders seem to be doing exactly that, achieving Gross National happiness along the way.

What’s they key to their success? They take things one step at a time. Acting in haste to keep up with the rest of the world is not Bhutan’s style. Until the 1960’s it had no roads, automobiles, telephone, postal system or electricity. Limited access to TV and the internet wasn’t enabled until 1999, once people had been taught how to manage the pros and cons of this technology (dinner in front of the telly with everyone absorbed in mobile phones doesn’t constitute family time in Bhutan).

This cautious country has been so patient with its decisions, it’s managed to skip the horrors of the Industrial Revolution and jump straight to the 21st century. With a strong focus on sustainability, it’s become the only “carbon sink” in the world; Bhutan actually creates more energy than it uses! Unlike most of Asia, its towns are in spit spot condition. Litter is scarce, electrical wires are hidden, buildings look immaculate, pollution is undetectable and operations run smoothly. Taking time to observe the experiences of other countries, Bhutan has been able to get things right for the good of its people and the environment.

While signs of democracy are steadily weaving their way into Bhutan, this transition isn’t being rushed either (Bhutan had its first general election in 2008). To ensure the divide between rich and poor doesn’t spiral out of control, the government is balancing the scales with an egalitarian approach. This can be seen in Bhutan’s management of tourism. It cost Ben and me $2500 as a couple to tour the country for a week. The majority of this tariff was absorbed by the government and distributed throughout the community (focusing on areas in need, e.g. regional housing development). This means, the entire country benefits from tourism, not just the operators.

Even the Royal Family is working hard support less affluent communities. Due to the small population of Bhutan (approx. 700,000), it’s able to keep its finger on the pulse and recognise those who are underprivileged. Heading a number of charities which ensure people’s basic needs are met (especially in remote communities), the royals (and NGOs) are careful not to go overboard. Their perspective? If the people are happy as they are, why try to change them and and inject dissatisfaction into their lives (i.e. a desire for more)?

Lesson #5: Think before you act; take your time considering the outcomes; and, make a decision which supports the well-being of all parties involved – there’s always a way. This will inspire loyalty, trust, unity and contentment amongst the community. This philosophy rings true when it comes to leading countries, families, interest groups and beyond.

CONCLUSION

After visiting Bhutan, I was in two minds. One one hand, I felt deeply saddened by the experience. It made me realise how much suffering, negativity, discord and inequality was being nurtured by other countries. Crossing the border from Bhutan straight into India was a shock to the system! On the flip side, Bhutan was proof that purity still existed in the world. I was surprised and delighted by this unassuming country, which genuinely felt like the happiest place on earth. Bhutan has so much to teach the world, I hope it marches to the beat of its own drum for many years to come.

6 MIND-BLOWING EXPERIENCES IN MYANMAR

I have no doubt that if you make the journey Myanmar, the country and its people will capture your heart. A place where Betel Nut smiles and enthusiastic waves are always on tap, the locals will literally take you by the hand and bring you into their world. They are truly beautiful both inside and out.

Not generally at the top of holiday-goers’ to-do lists, Myanmar is relatively untouched by tourism and seems to be one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Foreigners are a rare sight, which means they are treated like much-loved celebrities. It’s hard not to feel welcome.

We explored Myanmar as part of a guided tour, a requirement for overland adventurers. Having found a group of similarly placed travellers via Horizons Unlimited, we were able to bring the total cost down and enjoy the journey with kindred spirits.

We chose to team up with Myanmar Senses for our tour and highly recommend it as a company. The guides took care of our every need, including the tedious aspects of overland travel (e.g. border post transitions, paying toll fees, figuring out where to eat, arranging hotel bookings, topping us up with bottled water and face wipes, and finding toilets etc.). In the context of Myanmar, it was luxury.

Throughout the ten-day journey, I encountered some of my favourite travel experiences to date. They will forever remain tattooed to my brain and I hope my tales about them lure you to the captivating land of Myanmar. 

#1 THINGYAN WATER FESTIVAL (YANGON)

There is simply no better time to visit Mynmar than during the Thingyan Water Festival. The marathon water fight welcomes in the New Year over four days in April, showcasing the local spirit and vibrant community in all of their glory.

While celebrations go wet ‘n’ wild throughout the country (even in the middle of nowhere), the heartbeat of the action is Yangon, Myanmar’s most populated city. The scene is like a kids’ ultimate battleground, a water wonderland with infinite weapons of mass drenching, including: water pistols, buckets, hoses, drums, water bottles and super strength water jets. Staying dry isn’t an option.

The fun is unavoidably infectious. Kids, the elderly, breastfeeding mum’s, families on scooters, street food vendors, rebellious monks, police officers, tourists…everyone is quick to let their hair down and join in the fun.

The battle course, an inescapable ring around the city centre, is lined with thousands of hoses mounted on concert stages. The area is positively pumping with dance, techno and popular beats. The base reverberates through every fibre of your body, igniting your adrenalin and enhancing the thrill of the battle.

Utes, packed to the brim with jumping passengers, bounce their way through the course like something out of an R&B video clip. Other party-goers (mainly teenage boys with pop-punk fashion, black make-up and wild hair cuts) weave their way through the traffic, stopping to dance and get drenched along the way.

It’s one of the funniest and most uplifting things I’ve seen in my life. People letting go of their inhibitions, strangers hugging each other and roaring the words, “Happy New Year!”, and an entire community sharing in a tremendously joyous experience. Thingyan just goes to show, people can simply get high on fun – no drugs or alcohol required.

#2 SHWEDAGON PAGODA (YANGON)

The first time you gaze upon this majestic creation, you’ll understand why she’s the Mother of all pagodas. Epic in every way imaginable, Shwedagon is the biggest, blingiest, most beloved Buddhist stupa in Myanmar. Constructed more than 2,500 years ago, she is also the oldest in the world.

So the story goes, people all over the country, as well as monarchs throughout Myanmar’s history, have donated gold to the pagoda to maintain it. The practice continues to this day after being started in the 15th century by the Queen Binnya Thau, who literally gave her weight in gold. Today, this ultra-opulent structure has become so blindingly beautiful, you practically need to wear sunnies just to look at it!

Considering her history and majesty, it’s little wonder Shwedagon Pagoda has become a focus of religious as well as community activities for the people of Myanmar. As you explore the temple compound, which extends well beyond the star attraction, local life takes stage before you. From meditating monks and bustling devotees to flower vendors and family feasts, it’s surprisingly lively for a spiritual sanctuary. So, sit back, soak up a bit of Myanmar culture and study a true wonder of the religious world.

#3 THE ANCIENT KINGDOM (BAGAN)

A trip to the Bagan plains is an enchanting journey into the past. This kingdom experienced its golden era between the 11^th and 13^th centuries, when over 10,000 ornate Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries were built.

Today, many of these structures still exist albeit in a weathered, battle-worn state. This gives the area an eerie gravesite-like vibe. It’s like a beautiful forgotten land, with thousands of stories locked mysteriously inside its crumbling walls. Having said that, the temples certainly haven’t been forgotten…

The Bagan Archaeological Zone is one of Myanmar’s major tourist draw cards. As such, it’s perfectly set up to accommodate visitors, offering an extensive menu of hotels, resorts and restaurants. Akin to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the star attractions are swarming with holiday-goers around sunset, all looking to capture the perfect money shot.

Smart dessert dogs are hot on the tourist trail. Weaving in between bushes, buses and boulder-structures, they hunt out any crumb of food they can possibly find. It only makes the experience seem more wild and true to life.

If you want to avoid the hustle and bustle, explore the temples at sunrise. The ancient city is possibly more picturesque at the crack of dawn, especially when it’s peak season and a dozen or so air-balloons take to the skies.

I have no doubt Bagon will climb the “so hot right now” travel destination list along with Myanmar. So, get in quick before this mystical place loses some of its raw charm.

#4 U BEIN BRIDGE (MANDALAY)

If it wasn’t peppered with litter, this site would be one of the most picturesque in Myanmar. Even with it blemishes, U Bein Bridge is pretty impressive. Built in 1850 and stretching a mighty 1.2km, it’s the oldest and longest teakwood bridge in the world. For both of these reasons, it’s a slightly knee-trembling experience trying to cross it. With hundreds of other people stomping on its planks at any given time, it feels like this rustic relic could collapse at any moment…and it’s a long sprint to terra firma!

Having said that, there are a number of utterly magical moments to be enjoyed at this local hot-spot-come-tourist-hub. A sunset boat ride around Taungthaman Lake is one of them. Weave in between angelic birds like a scene out of The Notebook as the silhouette of U Bein Bridge ripples on the water surface.

For another peaceful moment, wander away from the bridge (past the restaurants) until you reach the goose farm. If you time things just right, you’ll get to watch the owners herd hundreds of the feathered flappers back into their enclosure like pros. The lake and sunset in the background make for glorious photographs and time-lapse videos.

I recommend arriving at U Bein Bridge at least an hour before sunset if you want to relax, enjoy the experiences on offer and capture every picturesque moment. The site is heaving with people at this time of day, so everything takes longer than expected.

Plus, there’s so much to do! You can explore the markets (I had to get myself a watermelon seed bag), make the slow journey across the bridge, sip on coconuts by the water’s edge, play with farm animals and take a gazillion photos. If you’re up for a calmer experience, make the journey to U Bein Bridge for sunrise.

#5 MAHAMUNI BUDDHA TEMPLE (MANDALAY)

For a taste of Myanmar madness (the good kind), head to the Mahamuni Buddha Temple. This highly venerated pilgrimage site draws thousands of visitors on a daily basis. Ancient tradition refers to only five likenesses of the Buddha made during his lifetime: two in India, two in paradise, and the fifth is the Mahamuni Buddha image in Mandalay. It’s little wonder this sacred site has become such a nucleus of activity for the people of Myanmar.

From the moment you attempt to spot a car park amongst the sea of scooters, you know things are about to get seriously frantic. As you push your way through the markets, which masterfully filter people through to the temple, your senses get swept away by a tantalising cocktail of vivid colours, hunger-inducing smells and curious events.

Once you finally make it into the main compound, the crowd becomes “next-level” hectic. Devotees, monks and visitors clog every artery leading to its heart, the Muhamundi Buddha statue (which can only be approached by men).

While this might sound like most people’s idea of hell, it’s actually quite a fun experience. Being thrust into a festival of Myanmar culture is truly thrilling. The locals, especially the women, make an incredible effort to wear their finest and brightest traditional clothing. The result is a moving palette of rich colours, which would put an Indian wedding to shame.

As a visitor, I think the best way to enjoy this sacred site is take a step back and watch the unique rituals and events unfold. Oh! And don’t forget to buy one of the homemade, technicolour ice-creams. They’re heaven in the heat.

#6 GOLDEN ROCK (MT KYAIKTIYO) 

This has to be one of the most entertaining things a traveller can do in Myanmar. But, it’s not the act of pasting gold leaf on a gravity-defying rock which makes it so engaging. It’s the bus ride up Mt Kyaiktiyo which really gets your giggles going.

The buses in regional Myanmar aren’t like the ones we complain about in the Western World. They are giant, rickety, open-air trucks with bench seats in the back. People are packed into them like cattl; strangers sit shoulder to shoulder and knee to bum under a blazing sun. The unlucky buggers in the middle have nowhere to look but up. And that’s not the half of it.

The bus trip up Mt Kyaiktiyo is a knuckle-biting, heart-stopping, boob-bouncing thrill ride like no other. The course involves a relentless series of hairpin turns, steep inclines, killer drop-offs and breath-taking views. It’s so foreign and frightening, all you can do is laugh.

Once the ride comes to an end, your reward is laid out before you: a busting mountain village amongst the cloudy heavens. A trail of activity leads you to the pièce de résistance. Witness hefty tourists being carried on the backs of able bodied men like royalty, roving ice-pop and samosa vendors, exotic street stalls (fried snake anyone?), random explosions of cash being thrown in the air for good luck, the cutest babies in the world and thousands of devotees focused on their pilgrimage.

And then there’s the Golden Rock. Indeed, it’s a spectacular site to be seen, especially in light of the panoramic views in the background. According to legend, the mammoth feature is precariously perched on a strand of the Buddha’s hair, making it the third most important pilgrimage site after the Shwedagon Pagoda and Mahamuni Buddha Temple. But, as a non-Buddhist tourist, I have to say Golden Rock delivered the most memorable travel experience.

There you have it, six mind-blowing experiences just waiting to ignite your eternal love for Myanmar. Put this magnificent country on your radar, add these authentic adventures to your bucket list, get amongst the action,  share your stories and enjoy the memories. They’ll be one of a kind.

HAPPY DAY 14 // THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR

The clock struck four, when Ben’s phone told us it was time to get our butts out of bed. Today was a special day, so I wasn’t in my usual pre-breakfast zombie-like state. Despite the fact that it was closer to my bedtime than my usual waking time, I felt energised. The infamous Angkor Wat was waiting for us.

After a quick tuk-tuk ride and the usual ticketing booth formalities, we commenced the walk towards that enchanting, world-renowned silhouette, our anticipation building with each step. The deep beat of jungle drums drifted through the air, setting the mood perfectly. The impressive crowd of tourists was in a quiet trance-like state, waiting for the stage lights to switch on and the star attraction to make itself known. For now, Angkor Wat was sitting in the shadows, lit only by a thin lip of burnt orange and fuschia. And so we waited…

As we ensconced ourselves in the dewy grass and sat back with our sugar-loaded coffees, the sun slowly came out to play. The glassy dam between us and the Mother of all Temples captured her reflection in all of its glory. As Angkor Wat rose from her slumber, it seemed like she’d brought a mirror to her face just to make sure everything was in order before we snapped away like crazed paparazzi.

After the big moment had come and gone, it was time to enter the gates of Angkor Wat and take a closer look. She was more magnificent than I’d imagined – like a long-limbed lady covered in ornate henna tattoos. Her walls and corridors stretched far and wide, every inch of them covered in curious engravings, stunning motifs and precious sculptures.

The wave of tourists quickly dissipated, as people wandered off in different directions and got lost amongst the endless network of hallways and doorways. The architectural symmetry was simply genius, messing with my head like a giant mirrored maze. Every way I looked and turned, there was a stunning, rustic frame staring back at me. It was a photographer’s paradise.

Soon it was time to move on to Bayon, the next temple in our tour. We went on the hunt for our tuk-tuk driver, which proved to be a serious challenge. The carpark looked like it was hosting a tuk-tuk rally. At this point, we realised we should have photographed our driver and his vehicle before wandering off.

Eventually we heard our voices being called in the distance – once lost, we’d been found. After a short drive, our team of three was delivered to the doorstep of Bayon, which captured our attention immediately. Decorated with 126 mammoth faces, it’s thought to be a narcissistic shrine to King Jayavarman VII, the mastermind behind the Temples of Angkor. Witnessing the majesty of his vision, I couldn’t help but think he had the right to be pleased with himself.

Next, it was time to tackle the popular Temple of Ta Prohm. A perfect union between divine ruins and mother nature, it was nothing short of spectacular. The roots of the silk-cotton trees had grown through the temple walls like veins keeping a heart alive. I could see why Tomb Raider had been filmed here. The atmosphere was truly magical. I found myself being transported back to the 12th Century, when Ta Prohm had housed hundreds of dancers, high priests, gold, pearls, silks and beyond. It sounded like a dream.

Over the course of the next couple of hours we went on to view a few more historic sites. They were all dwarfed by Angkor Wat and its cool cousins. As my husband put it, “It’s hard to get excited by foreplay after sex.” Having said that, watching the sun rise over Angkor Wat proved to be a memorable, must-see moment. In hindsight, we should have bought a three-day pass, so we could better appreciate the lesser known attractions and work our way up to the main event.

To complete our once-in-a-lifetime experience of Angkor Wat, we decided to see the grounds from a different perspective – “gibbon view”. I’d been craving an adrenalin rush for a while and Flight of the Gibbon sounded right up my alley. Guiding us through a series of sky-high zip lines, tree houses and bridge walks, it certainly got my heart pumping. I’m usually good with heights, but when our tiny 150m-high platform started swaying in the wind, I quickly conjured up an escape plan. Surely jumping towards the nearest branch and holding on for dear life would save me?

After three hours of flying between the trees, our group finally had the swing of things. I was racing across the barely-there bridges and dangling from the wires like a pro-gibbon – no sweat. I could see why Flight of the Gibbon was killing it on Trip Advisor. The experience was the right kind of challenging and certainly thrilling, offering a change of pace to the temple tours. And, by the end of the day, I was all “templed out”.

MY ISLAND HOME

I didn’t think it was going to be hard to say goodbye to Australia. Yes, it’s been my home from the moment I entered this world; however, I’ve reached the point where I need to move on and expand my imagination. I’m hungry for anything foreign or new.

Having said that, our farewell party over Australia Day weekend made me realise I am going to miss this place. I have 28 years of history here and I’ve had precious friends and family back me all of the way. There are so many memories: my mum’s friends who helped raise me like a village; the fear and fun of school; girlfriends who held my hand through the best and worst moments of my life; impossibly beautiful destinations that comforted me when I needed to reenergise; the day I married the love of my life; the projects and jobs that fed my brain and challenged my stress levels; and my mum who’s loved me more than I can handle.

 

Australia has given me so much more than a place to call home – things I will undoubtedly treasure by the time our overland adventure comes to a close in 2016. It’s place where the living is easy – very easy. I want for nothing here and everything is possible. The people are friendly, loyal and hardworking; the country is diverse and inspiring; and, the weather is perfect. There is a sense of freedom, peace and optimism here that few other places offer.

On the flip side, life is almost too darn easy and the national temperament is blissfully carefree. I want more of a challenge. I don’t think my feisty, insatiable personality quite fits in here (then again, this could just be in my head).

It’s ten days until we kick off the journey of a lifetime. I wonder which country is going to draw me in, give me a sense of purpose and make me feel like I belong? Perhaps I’ll come out the other side only to realise there’s no place like home. We’ll have to wait and see!

Words that describe Australia:

• Free
• Diverse
• Relaxed
• Outdoors
• Warm
• Friendly
• Optimistic
• Peaceful
• Isolated
• Happy-go-lucky

Thought for the day: whether you live in, have visited or simply heard about Australia, what does the Land Down Under mean to you?

A Place to Call Home

What words would you use to describe yourself? How about your hometown? Do the words match? If they do, you’ve found “home”…or so I once read. I like that idea – even if it is simplistic.

You see, I’ve lived in Australia my entire life. While it’s as sunny, relaxed, naturally beautiful and friendly as people imagine, there’s still something missing for me. I guess the “lucky birthplace draw” doesn’t always put you where you’re supposed to be. It’s both a thrilling and terrifying thought. Where in the world is home? How many of us haven’t questioned living outside of our birth country…or even our birth town?

Hopefully, while my hubby and I are driving across Asia, the Middle East and Europe, we’ll discover a place that stops us in our tracks. A place where we can be completely ourselves. A place where ‘our people’ exist and our passions can be fulfilled. A place to call home.

The words below describe me (there are some traits I really should work on!). Any thoughts on where I’d feel at home? What countries have you loved living in?

SOPHEE’S WORDS:

• Insatiable
• Imaginative
• Passionate
• Unpredictable
• Rebellious
• Candid
• Stubborn
• Philanthropic
• Detached
• Open-minded
• Independent
• Curious
• Ultimately…a tad bi-polar

Happy Trails

  

It’s actually happened. Opportunity has reared her glorious head and presented an invitation of a lifetime. My hubby Ben and I have the chance to spend a year travelling from Singapore to London, documenting happiness along the way.

It’s brilliantly ridiculous, and oh so apt. You see, I was literally born with a frown on my face and it’s been a regular accessory throughout my 28 years. That’s not to say I’m an unhappy person – just a complete stress-head, worry wart and angry ant (as my mum would say). And, unfortunately, I seem drawn to stressful situations like a stubborn moth to a flame. Not a good mix.

So, this “happy hunting trip” is perfect – it’s what I really need right now. Time for life…and the time of my life. I’ll get to explore happiness around the world – how people allow it into their lives, actively seek it, play with it and share it with others. Hopefully, along the way, I’ll find things that put a smile on my face…many things.