6 MIND-BLOWING EXPERIENCES IN MYANMAR

I have no doubt that if you make the journey Myanmar, the country and its people will capture your heart. A place where Betel Nut smiles and enthusiastic waves are always on tap, the locals will literally take you by the hand and bring you into their world. They are truly beautiful both inside and out.

Not generally at the top of holiday-goers’ to-do lists, Myanmar is relatively untouched by tourism and seems to be one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Foreigners are a rare sight, which means they are treated like much-loved celebrities. It’s hard not to feel welcome.

We explored Myanmar as part of a guided tour, a requirement for overland adventurers. Having found a group of similarly placed travellers via Horizons Unlimited, we were able to bring the total cost down and enjoy the journey with kindred spirits.

We chose to team up with Myanmar Senses for our tour and highly recommend it as a company. The guides took care of our every need, including the tedious aspects of overland travel (e.g. border post transitions, paying toll fees, figuring out where to eat, arranging hotel bookings, topping us up with bottled water and face wipes, and finding toilets etc.). In the context of Myanmar, it was luxury.

Throughout the ten-day journey, I encountered some of my favourite travel experiences to date. They will forever remain tattooed to my brain and I hope my tales about them lure you to the captivating land of Myanmar. 

#1 THINGYAN WATER FESTIVAL (YANGON)

There is simply no better time to visit Mynmar than during the Thingyan Water Festival. The marathon water fight welcomes in the New Year over four days in April, showcasing the local spirit and vibrant community in all of their glory.

While celebrations go wet ‘n’ wild throughout the country (even in the middle of nowhere), the heartbeat of the action is Yangon, Myanmar’s most populated city. The scene is like a kids’ ultimate battleground, a water wonderland with infinite weapons of mass drenching, including: water pistols, buckets, hoses, drums, water bottles and super strength water jets. Staying dry isn’t an option.

The fun is unavoidably infectious. Kids, the elderly, breastfeeding mum’s, families on scooters, street food vendors, rebellious monks, police officers, tourists…everyone is quick to let their hair down and join in the fun.

The battle course, an inescapable ring around the city centre, is lined with thousands of hoses mounted on concert stages. The area is positively pumping with dance, techno and popular beats. The base reverberates through every fibre of your body, igniting your adrenalin and enhancing the thrill of the battle.

Utes, packed to the brim with jumping passengers, bounce their way through the course like something out of an R&B video clip. Other party-goers (mainly teenage boys with pop-punk fashion, black make-up and wild hair cuts) weave their way through the traffic, stopping to dance and get drenched along the way.

It’s one of the funniest and most uplifting things I’ve seen in my life. People letting go of their inhibitions, strangers hugging each other and roaring the words, “Happy New Year!”, and an entire community sharing in a tremendously joyous experience. Thingyan just goes to show, people can simply get high on fun – no drugs or alcohol required.

#2 SHWEDAGON PAGODA (YANGON)

The first time you gaze upon this majestic creation, you’ll understand why she’s the Mother of all pagodas. Epic in every way imaginable, Shwedagon is the biggest, blingiest, most beloved Buddhist stupa in Myanmar. Constructed more than 2,500 years ago, she is also the oldest in the world.

So the story goes, people all over the country, as well as monarchs throughout Myanmar’s history, have donated gold to the pagoda to maintain it. The practice continues to this day after being started in the 15th century by the Queen Binnya Thau, who literally gave her weight in gold. Today, this ultra-opulent structure has become so blindingly beautiful, you practically need to wear sunnies just to look at it!

Considering her history and majesty, it’s little wonder Shwedagon Pagoda has become a focus of religious as well as community activities for the people of Myanmar. As you explore the temple compound, which extends well beyond the star attraction, local life takes stage before you. From meditating monks and bustling devotees to flower vendors and family feasts, it’s surprisingly lively for a spiritual sanctuary. So, sit back, soak up a bit of Myanmar culture and study a true wonder of the religious world.

#3 THE ANCIENT KINGDOM (BAGAN)

A trip to the Bagan plains is an enchanting journey into the past. This kingdom experienced its golden era between the 11^th and 13^th centuries, when over 10,000 ornate Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries were built.

Today, many of these structures still exist albeit in a weathered, battle-worn state. This gives the area an eerie gravesite-like vibe. It’s like a beautiful forgotten land, with thousands of stories locked mysteriously inside its crumbling walls. Having said that, the temples certainly haven’t been forgotten…

The Bagan Archaeological Zone is one of Myanmar’s major tourist draw cards. As such, it’s perfectly set up to accommodate visitors, offering an extensive menu of hotels, resorts and restaurants. Akin to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the star attractions are swarming with holiday-goers around sunset, all looking to capture the perfect money shot.

Smart dessert dogs are hot on the tourist trail. Weaving in between bushes, buses and boulder-structures, they hunt out any crumb of food they can possibly find. It only makes the experience seem more wild and true to life.

If you want to avoid the hustle and bustle, explore the temples at sunrise. The ancient city is possibly more picturesque at the crack of dawn, especially when it’s peak season and a dozen or so air-balloons take to the skies.

I have no doubt Bagon will climb the “so hot right now” travel destination list along with Myanmar. So, get in quick before this mystical place loses some of its raw charm.

#4 U BEIN BRIDGE (MANDALAY)

If it wasn’t peppered with litter, this site would be one of the most picturesque in Myanmar. Even with it blemishes, U Bein Bridge is pretty impressive. Built in 1850 and stretching a mighty 1.2km, it’s the oldest and longest teakwood bridge in the world. For both of these reasons, it’s a slightly knee-trembling experience trying to cross it. With hundreds of other people stomping on its planks at any given time, it feels like this rustic relic could collapse at any moment…and it’s a long sprint to terra firma!

Having said that, there are a number of utterly magical moments to be enjoyed at this local hot-spot-come-tourist-hub. A sunset boat ride around Taungthaman Lake is one of them. Weave in between angelic birds like a scene out of The Notebook as the silhouette of U Bein Bridge ripples on the water surface.

For another peaceful moment, wander away from the bridge (past the restaurants) until you reach the goose farm. If you time things just right, you’ll get to watch the owners herd hundreds of the feathered flappers back into their enclosure like pros. The lake and sunset in the background make for glorious photographs and time-lapse videos.

I recommend arriving at U Bein Bridge at least an hour before sunset if you want to relax, enjoy the experiences on offer and capture every picturesque moment. The site is heaving with people at this time of day, so everything takes longer than expected.

Plus, there’s so much to do! You can explore the markets (I had to get myself a watermelon seed bag), make the slow journey across the bridge, sip on coconuts by the water’s edge, play with farm animals and take a gazillion photos. If you’re up for a calmer experience, make the journey to U Bein Bridge for sunrise.

#5 MAHAMUNI BUDDHA TEMPLE (MANDALAY)

For a taste of Myanmar madness (the good kind), head to the Mahamuni Buddha Temple. This highly venerated pilgrimage site draws thousands of visitors on a daily basis. Ancient tradition refers to only five likenesses of the Buddha made during his lifetime: two in India, two in paradise, and the fifth is the Mahamuni Buddha image in Mandalay. It’s little wonder this sacred site has become such a nucleus of activity for the people of Myanmar.

From the moment you attempt to spot a car park amongst the sea of scooters, you know things are about to get seriously frantic. As you push your way through the markets, which masterfully filter people through to the temple, your senses get swept away by a tantalising cocktail of vivid colours, hunger-inducing smells and curious events.

Once you finally make it into the main compound, the crowd becomes “next-level” hectic. Devotees, monks and visitors clog every artery leading to its heart, the Muhamundi Buddha statue (which can only be approached by men).

While this might sound like most people’s idea of hell, it’s actually quite a fun experience. Being thrust into a festival of Myanmar culture is truly thrilling. The locals, especially the women, make an incredible effort to wear their finest and brightest traditional clothing. The result is a moving palette of rich colours, which would put an Indian wedding to shame.

As a visitor, I think the best way to enjoy this sacred site is take a step back and watch the unique rituals and events unfold. Oh! And don’t forget to buy one of the homemade, technicolour ice-creams. They’re heaven in the heat.

#6 GOLDEN ROCK (MT KYAIKTIYO) 

This has to be one of the most entertaining things a traveller can do in Myanmar. But, it’s not the act of pasting gold leaf on a gravity-defying rock which makes it so engaging. It’s the bus ride up Mt Kyaiktiyo which really gets your giggles going.

The buses in regional Myanmar aren’t like the ones we complain about in the Western World. They are giant, rickety, open-air trucks with bench seats in the back. People are packed into them like cattl; strangers sit shoulder to shoulder and knee to bum under a blazing sun. The unlucky buggers in the middle have nowhere to look but up. And that’s not the half of it.

The bus trip up Mt Kyaiktiyo is a knuckle-biting, heart-stopping, boob-bouncing thrill ride like no other. The course involves a relentless series of hairpin turns, steep inclines, killer drop-offs and breath-taking views. It’s so foreign and frightening, all you can do is laugh.

Once the ride comes to an end, your reward is laid out before you: a busting mountain village amongst the cloudy heavens. A trail of activity leads you to the pièce de résistance. Witness hefty tourists being carried on the backs of able bodied men like royalty, roving ice-pop and samosa vendors, exotic street stalls (fried snake anyone?), random explosions of cash being thrown in the air for good luck, the cutest babies in the world and thousands of devotees focused on their pilgrimage.

And then there’s the Golden Rock. Indeed, it’s a spectacular site to be seen, especially in light of the panoramic views in the background. According to legend, the mammoth feature is precariously perched on a strand of the Buddha’s hair, making it the third most important pilgrimage site after the Shwedagon Pagoda and Mahamuni Buddha Temple. But, as a non-Buddhist tourist, I have to say Golden Rock delivered the most memorable travel experience.

There you have it, six mind-blowing experiences just waiting to ignite your eternal love for Myanmar. Put this magnificent country on your radar, add these authentic adventures to your bucket list, get amongst the action,  share your stories and enjoy the memories. They’ll be one of a kind.

EXIT INTERVIEW: BEST OF MALAYSIA

My time in Malaysia has been an eclectic experience, to say the least. From the urban jungle of Kuala Lumpur to the old-world town of Melaka to the naturally breathtaking Cameron Highlands, I’ve had a chance to explore the best parts of Malaysia as well as what makes the locals happy. Here’s a summary of my highlights…

5 words that describe Malaysia: Friendly, disorganised, messy, relaxed, very charming (in parts)

What seems to make Malaysians happy? Food, family and friends plus the great outdoors.

What seems to make Malaysians unhappy? I can’t recall seeing any unhappy faces! It sounds like some of the decisions made by government reps cause frustration. When we were in the Cameron Highlands, it looked like the famers and labourers worked long brutal days, which undoubtedly puts a strain on their health.

Did you ever feel out of your comfort zone while in Malaysia? I found the dirt, grime and lack of order a little confronting at first, especially after Singapore (one of the cleanest and most organised destinations on earth). Jahor was the first Malaysian city we came across and it’s not pretty!

What can other countries learn from Malaysia? How to be hospitable towards strangers and how to retain / preserve traditional architecture. The old-world charm in towns like Melaka and George Town was truly magical.

Best thing I saw: The drive into Penang was brilliant! We arrived at the stroke of midnight, when Chinese New Year celebrations were in full swing. Everyone was out on the streets lighting fireworks and running family bon fires. Plus, the old-world charm of the place was more beautiful and enchanting than I expected.

Best thing I heard: The laughter of the Malaysians. They seem like such happy, friendly people. I also loved the sound of the calling towers as we drove into Ipoh. There was something very mystical and soothing about it, as we walked around the main oval, watching hockey players training underneath the setting sun.

Best thing I smelt: The fresh strawberries in the Cameron Highlands. They were ridiculously sweet and made your mouth water from miles away.

Best thing I did: Decide to spend the morning chilling out in George Town, Penang (we were on a tight schedule into Thailand, but chose to drive late into the night so we didn’t have to sacrifice this must-see town). Trawling through the streets in the wee hours of the morning, we stumbled across the most vivid flowers we’d ever seen; I’m talking fluoro orange, electric blue, fuchsia and beyond. We also discovered the “original Starbucks”, as one local described it. Serving the best brekky to date, our new favourite cafe was literally a nameless hole in the wall. The owner made our tea like a boss (not a wanky barista) and made us eggs on fresh, crusty toast with a makeshift grill plate – it was true theatre and it tasted brilliant!

 

Best thing I tasted: Cheesy vegetable naan at an Indian Restaurant in the Cameron Highlands. It was completely moreish.

Best local character I met: The entire team that runs Gerard’s Place in the Cameron Highlands – they became our adoptive family. I especially adored Joshua. He provided the best company, friendship, advice and source of giggles we could hope for.

Best lost in translation moment: The process of getting Colonel Mustard kitted out with air-con proved a bit challenging for Ben. But, thanks to hand gestures and mutual love of Landies, Ben and the mechanic (Mr Woon) got through the experience with a smile and the Colonel in one piece.

Best surprise ‘n’ delight moment: Tasting coconut shakes for the first time. They are now my favourite drink in the world. I’m convinced I need to sell them at the markets back in Oz. They’re painfully good. The street art and graffiti throughout Malaysia was also off the charts – so imaginative and inspiring!

Best thing I enjoyed about life in Malaysia: How relaxing it was. No one seemed particularly stressed, aggressive or rude. Things happened when they could. If they took longer than expected or didn’t go to plan – not to worry.

Enjoying the Simple Life in the Cameron Highlands

The Cameron Highlands is a place where you can have a holiday from your holiday. Nestled amongst the mountains in the mid-north of Malaysia, this picturesque destination offers a true escape from the hustle and bustle of Kuala Lumpur and the heat of the lowlands. The air is fresh, the land is lush, the atmosphere is calm and the clouds dance around you like you’re in heaven.

During our time in the Cameron Highlands, we stayed at Gerard’s Place in the quaint little town of Tanah Rata. Like many of the hotels in the area, the aesthetic has a quirky Dutch flavour to it. But Gerard’s is special – a true home away from home.

The family who run the boutique hotel (Gerard, Jay and their son Joshua) are newfound friends. They took care of Ben and me like we were part of their own brood, breaking roti with us, getting us involved in their hobbies (i.e. Land Rovers – Ben was very impressed), sharing local insights with us and helping us in any way they could. Running the guesthouse is not just a business for these guys, it’s their lives, their source of bliss, and a joint venture which brings their family together.

During our time in the Cameron Highlands, we realised there really is something in country living or “the simple life”. Here, everyone knows and looks out for each other; kids can walk themselves home from school safely; the cost of living is low and there’s an abundance of fresh food being grown by the surrounding farms.

Many of the locals view life in the big smoke (i.e. Kuala Lumpur) as completely undesirable. The cost of living is much higher, the workforce is highly competitive, the streets are hectic and the sense of “community” is simply not the same. Big city equals stress city.

Having visited both major hubs and rural towns throughout Malaysia, we can definitely say we felt happier chilling out in the country. In the Cameron Highlands, Ben and I were completely at ease. There wasn’t an overwhelming variety of things to get up to which was actually quite nice. It was a case of: eat – walk – visit farm – sleep – repeat. Literally, that’s what we did for three days, and here are our “simple life” highlights:

1. HAVING LOCAL TEA & SCONES IN A TEA HOUSE: We visited the Cameron Bharat Tea Plantation. While the scones weren’t something to write home about, the tea was beautifully simple in flavour and the views were to die for. Looking out at the sea of green, we couldn’t help but get amongst it and check out the tea plantations up close. There are a number of tracks around, so you can wander to your heart’s content.

2. FEASTING ON A STEAMBOAT: Quite simply, it’s the local must-have dish. “May Flower Restaurant” serves up the best in town and the owner, a man who looks like Mr Miyagi, is a fun character to chat to (he’ll gladly rub your food baby once you’re done). Ben swears Steamboat is the best thing he’s eaten throughout our trip so far. The ingredients were fresh and clean yet seriously flavour packed. Make sure you have an empty stomach before you tuck in. The serving size is seriously generous!

3. VISITING A STRAWBERRY FARM: We hit up the Big Red Strawberry Farm, which came highly recommended by Jay from Gerard’s Guesthouse. The strawberries were an impossible red and practically every one of them looked like something out of fiction. And then there was the taste – OMG! We took up the offer of plucking our own strawberries, which was a lovely experience. We also couldn’t leave without trying a popular dish from the cafe menu – fried strawberry ice-cream. If only they served it like this in the Chinese restaurants back home in Oz!

4. TACKLING A WALKING TRACK: The Cameron Highlands is home to many great walks, some more thigh-n-butt-busting than others. We chose Track 10, which offered a decent workout plus an epic view and it was relatively quick to complete (approx. 2 hour return trip). The track itself was wonderfully diverse. One minute, we were surrounded by narrow ochre walls in a clay-like substance. The next minute we were lost in an enchanted overgrown forest with mossy spaghetti roots bursting out from everywhere. When we finally reached the summit, the clouds had decided to join us – we could practically reach out and touch them. While this was the perfect track for us, do your research, ask around and pick the one that’s right for you.

5. GOING ON A LAND ROVER ADVENTURE: We’re pretty sure the Cameron Highlands has the highest concentration of Land Rovers in the world. But they’re not the brand spanking new, state-of-the-art kind. They’re serious working vehicles and we’ve been told they come to the Highlands to live out their last days.

We spent a day in the life of a Landy-loving local farmer and had the time of our lives. The journey to and from the worksite was a real head-bumping, gear-grinding adventure – yep, this is what Land Rovers are made for. Once we finally reached the farmlands, our eyes lit up and grew to the size of saucers. Every inch of the rolling hills was covered in the most glorious looking fruit and vegetables we’d seen in our lives. We just wanted to dive into it – mouths open!

All-in-all, Ben and I loved our time in the Cameron Highlands. We can understand why it’s a popular holiday destination amongst Malaysian and Chinese city-slickers. There’s the perfect amount of activity and buzz about; but, ultimately, it’s a place where you can relax, take in some fresh air and spend some time with nature. Bliss.