Brace yourself! You’re senses are about to be assaulted and ignited like never before. That’s the advice I received before venturing into the brilliant beast that is Varanasi. Indeed, it was pretty bang on.
My week in “India’s spiritual capital” hit me like a psychedelic acid trip. It was a mind-blowing experience for better and for worse. The aroma was a melange of sun-baked urine, fresh human ashes, cow poop, and freshly fried pastries. My eyes were blinded by the chaotic sea of vibrant colour and constant cloud of dust. The sound of strangled tuk-tuk horns and melodic flute music filled the air from dawn til dusk. My personal space was robbed of me, as curious kids, friendly locals and assertive touts fought for my hand and got up in my grill.
Yep. I can safely say Varanasi isn’t for the faint-hearted. But, if you can persevere, this magical place will shock, move and change you to the point where it might very well become your favourite place in India. Whether you end up hating or loving your time here, it will long live in your memory. Here are some of my fondest recollections from Varanasi…
As if this place wasn’t colourful enough, with all of the vibrant saris, fruit stands and riverboats floating about, the street art and graffiti graphics inject another level of vibrancy and playfulness into Varanasi. Where there is spirituality, there is inevitably artistic expression. So, it’s little wander that the “beating heart” of the Hindu universe is liberally embellished with public art.
Varanasi is unapologetically indiscreet. The locals’ daily lives and most intimate moments are carried out in the public eye, from bathing sessions and “bathroom” stops to spiritual ceremonies, weddings and cremations. The theatre of it all is both confronting and thrilling.
Varanasi is a place where rural life and the urban world collide. The animals, particularly the cows and buffalo, rule the roads – and they know it. These courageous creatures seem completely at ease amongst the ferocious tidal wave of inner-city traffic. They have not a care in the world beyond their next bathing session or bite of food. Indeed, the animals seem to have their own exclusive section in the Ganges – there’s no better way to freshen up and escape the heat. Less comedic is the experience of watching the animals dive into mountains of rubbish for their next meal. A plate of plastic with a side of rotting chicken offcuts anyone?
“I love the night life,” and so do the people of Varanasi. As the sun says goodbye to another day, the spiritual capital of India comes out to play. The narrow streets are positively heaving with people by dusk and the action kicks on well into the night. Dashaswamedh Ghat and its neighbouring river space seem to form the main meeting point, as locals and tourists watch the nightly Aarti Ceremony and then descend on the markets. It’s a magical spectacle and true mayhem.
Thanks to the highly persistent and commonplace touts, it’s easy to get the wrong idea about the locals. But, let me assure you, they are delightful. Once they realise you’re 100% not keen to purchase anything, many switch from being relentless business people to being inquisitive and informative friends. They’re passionate about their city and they want it to get under your skin, too. I was guided to the Nepalese Temple, a popular tourist attraction, by a complete random and was pleasantly surprised when he didn’t ask for money – then again, maybe I just got lucky. As keen as the locals are to make a buck, a jovial wave, enlightening chat and strong hand shake are always at the ready.
The architecture in Varanasi is truly enchanting. Every wall tells a story and has character. From the incredibly ornate temples and labyrinth of old-world laneways to the weathered cement homes and dingy hole-in-the-wall shops, this visually eclectic city leaves you in a state of childlike wander. Prepare to get lost – enjoy the detour!
Varanasi oozes spirituality like nowhere else on earth. From the dusty outskirts and windy back roads all the way to the sacred temples and ghats by the Ganges, it’s a colossal petrie dish of spiritual life. Hindu pilgrims visit the sacred waters to wash away a lifetime of sins. The popular temples have queues a mile long, with devotees eager to place their divine offerings. Many also visit Vanarasi to cremate their loved ones in the Burning Ghats. It’s seen as a particularly auspicious place to die as expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death). It’s little wonder Varanasi is considered to be one of India’s holiest cities.
Varanasi wouldn’t be the same if it wasn’t nestled beside the Ganges. Perhaps the world’s holiest and well-known river, it conjures images of ever day life, death, festivals, playtime, community, filth and fertility – all of it shrouded in spirituality. The point where Varanasi meets the River Ganges is the ultimate nexus of these themes. It’s alive and well-used. It’s the heart and soul of Varanasi – especially at sunrise and sunset.
Varanasi takes no prisoners. It can be a brutal experience, even for veteran travellers, but it’s also guaranteed to be mind-blowing. I encountered so many absurd and challenging moments during my time here, from seeing a man with a monkey on a stick to acquiring severe food poisoning from a blatantly unhygienic street food stall (I really should’ve said no to the samosa – but it smelt so good!). Yet, I came out the other side having fallen in love with the place. It might be rough but it sure has personality.
I have no doubt that if you make the journey Myanmar, the country and its people will capture your heart. A place where Betel Nut smiles and enthusiastic waves are always on tap, the locals will literally take you by the hand and bring you into their world. They are truly beautiful both inside and out.
Not generally at the top of holiday-goers’ to-do lists, Myanmar is relatively untouched by tourism and seems to be one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Foreigners are a rare sight, which means they are treated like much-loved celebrities. It’s hard not to feel welcome.
We explored Myanmar as part of a guided tour, a requirement for overland adventurers. Having found a group of similarly placed travellers via Horizons Unlimited, we were able to bring the total cost down and enjoy the journey with kindred spirits.
We chose to team up with Myanmar Senses for our tour and highly recommend it as a company. The guides took care of our every need, including the tedious aspects of overland travel (e.g. border post transitions, paying toll fees, figuring out where to eat, arranging hotel bookings, topping us up with bottled water and face wipes, and finding toilets etc.). In the context of Myanmar, it was luxury.
Throughout the ten-day journey, I encountered some of my favourite travel experiences to date. They will forever remain tattooed to my brain and I hope my tales about them lure you to the captivating land of Myanmar.
#1 THINGYAN WATER FESTIVAL (YANGON)
There is simply no better time to visit Mynmar than during the Thingyan Water Festival. The marathon water fight welcomes in the New Year over four days in April, showcasing the local spirit and vibrant community in all of their glory.
While celebrations go wet ‘n’ wild throughout the country (even in the middle of nowhere), the heartbeat of the action is Yangon, Myanmar’s most populated city. The scene is like a kids’ ultimate battleground, a water wonderland with infinite weapons of mass drenching, including: water pistols, buckets, hoses, drums, water bottles and super strength water jets. Staying dry isn’t an option.
The fun is unavoidably infectious. Kids, the elderly, breastfeeding mum’s, families on scooters, street food vendors, rebellious monks, police officers, tourists…everyone is quick to let their hair down and join in the fun.
The battle course, an inescapable ring around the city centre, is lined with thousands of hoses mounted on concert stages. The area is positively pumping with dance, techno and popular beats. The base reverberates through every fibre of your body, igniting your adrenalin and enhancing the thrill of the battle.
Utes, packed to the brim with jumping passengers, bounce their way through the course like something out of an R&B video clip. Other party-goers (mainly teenage boys with pop-punk fashion, black make-up and wild hair cuts) weave their way through the traffic, stopping to dance and get drenched along the way.
It’s one of the funniest and most uplifting things I’ve seen in my life. People letting go of their inhibitions, strangers hugging each other and roaring the words, “Happy New Year!”, and an entire community sharing in a tremendously joyous experience. Thingyan just goes to show, people can simply get high on fun – no drugs or alcohol required.
#2 SHWEDAGON PAGODA (YANGON)
The first time you gaze upon this majestic creation, you’ll understand why she’s the Mother of all pagodas. Epic in every way imaginable, Shwedagon is the biggest, blingiest, most beloved Buddhist stupa in Myanmar. Constructed more than 2,500 years ago, she is also the oldest in the world.
So the story goes, people all over the country, as well as monarchs throughout Myanmar’s history, have donated gold to the pagoda to maintain it. The practice continues to this day after being started in the 15th century by the Queen Binnya Thau, who literally gave her weight in gold. Today, this ultra-opulent structure has become so blindingly beautiful, you practically need to wear sunnies just to look at it!
Considering her history and majesty, it’s little wonder Shwedagon Pagoda has become a focus of religious as well as community activities for the people of Myanmar. As you explore the temple compound, which extends well beyond the star attraction, local life takes stage before you. From meditating monks and bustling devotees to flower vendors and family feasts, it’s surprisingly lively for a spiritual sanctuary. So, sit back, soak up a bit of Myanmar culture and study a true wonder of the religious world.
#3 THE ANCIENT KINGDOM (BAGAN)
A trip to the Bagan plains is an enchanting journey into the past. This kingdom experienced its golden era between the 11th and 13th centuries, when over 10,000 ornate Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries were built.
Today, many of these structures still exist albeit in a weathered, battle-worn state. This gives the area an eerie gravesite-like vibe. It’s like a beautiful forgotten land, with thousands of stories locked mysteriously inside its crumbling walls. Having said that, the temples certainly haven’t been forgotten…
The Bagan Archaeological Zone is one of Myanmar’s major tourist draw cards. As such, it’s perfectly set up to accommodate visitors, offering an extensive menu of hotels, resorts and restaurants. Akin to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the star attractions are swarming with holiday-goers around sunset, all looking to capture the perfect money shot.
Smart dessert dogs are hot on the tourist trail. Weaving in between bushes, buses and boulder-structures, they hunt out any crumb of food they can possibly find. It only makes the experience seem more wild and true to life.
If you want to avoid the hustle and bustle, explore the temples at sunrise. The ancient city is possibly more picturesque at the crack of dawn, especially when it’s peak season and a dozen or so air-balloons take to the skies.
I have no doubt Bagon will climb the “so hot right now” travel destination list along with Myanmar. So, get in quick before this mystical place loses some of its raw charm.
#4 U BEIN BRIDGE (MANDALAY)
If it wasn’t peppered with litter, this site would be one of the most picturesque in Myanmar. Even with it blemishes, U Bein Bridge is pretty impressive. Built in 1850 and stretching a mighty 1.2km, it’s the oldest and longest teakwood bridge in the world. For both of these reasons, it’s a slightly knee-trembling experience trying to cross it. With hundreds of other people stomping on its planks at any given time, it feels like this rustic relic could collapse at any moment…and it’s a long sprint to terra firma!
Having said that, there are a number of utterly magical moments to be enjoyed at this local hot-spot-come-tourist-hub. A sunset boat ride around Taungthaman Lake is one of them. Weave in between angelic birds like a scene out of TheNotebook as the silhouette of U Bein Bridge ripples on the water surface.
For another peaceful moment, wander away from the bridge (past the restaurants) until you reach the goose farm. If you time things just right, you’ll get to watch the owners herd hundreds of the feathered flappers back into their enclosure like pros. The lake and sunset in the background make for glorious photographs and time-lapse videos.
I recommend arriving at U Bein Bridge at least an hour before sunset if you want to relax, enjoy the experiences on offer and capture every picturesque moment. The site is heaving with people at this time of day, so everything takes longer than expected.
Plus, there’s so much to do! You can explore the markets (I had to get myself a watermelon seed bag), make the slow journey across the bridge, sip on coconuts by the water’s edge, play with farm animals and take a gazillion photos. If you’re up for a calmer experience, make the journey to U Bein Bridge for sunrise.
#5 MAHAMUNI BUDDHA TEMPLE (MANDALAY)
For a taste of Myanmar madness (the good kind), head to the Mahamuni Buddha Temple. This highly venerated pilgrimage site draws thousands of visitors on a daily basis. Ancient tradition refers to only five likenesses of the Buddha made during his lifetime: two in India, two in paradise, and the fifth is the Mahamuni Buddha image in Mandalay. It’s little wonder this sacred site has become such a nucleus of activity for the people of Myanmar.
From the moment you attempt to spot a car park amongst the sea of scooters, you know things are about to get seriously frantic. As you push your way through the markets, which masterfully filter people through to the temple, your senses get swept away by a tantalising cocktail of vivid colours, hunger-inducing smells and curious events.
Once you finally make it into the main compound, the crowd becomes “next-level” hectic. Devotees, monks and visitors clog every artery leading to its heart, the Muhamundi Buddha statue (which can only be approached by men).
While this might sound like most people’s idea of hell, it’s actually quite a fun experience. Being thrust into a festival of Myanmar culture is truly thrilling. The locals, especially the women, make an incredible effort to wear their finest and brightest traditional clothing. The result is a moving palette of rich colours, which would put an Indian wedding to shame.
As a visitor, I think the best way to enjoy this sacred site is take a step back and watch the unique rituals and events unfold. Oh! And don’t forget to buy one of the homemade, technicolour ice-creams. They’re heaven in the heat.
#6 GOLDEN ROCK (MT KYAIKTIYO)
This has to be one of the most entertaining things a traveller can do in Myanmar. But, it’s not the act of pasting gold leaf on a gravity-defying rock which makes it so engaging. It’s the bus ride up Mt Kyaiktiyo which really gets your giggles going.
The buses in regional Myanmar aren’t like the ones we complain about in the Western World. They are giant, rickety, open-air trucks with bench seats in the back. People are packed into them like cattl; strangers sit shoulder to shoulder and knee to bum under a blazing sun. The unlucky buggers in the middle have nowhere to look but up. And that’s not the half of it.
The bus trip up Mt Kyaiktiyo is a knuckle-biting, heart-stopping, boob-bouncing thrill ride like no other. The course involves a relentless series of hairpin turns, steep inclines, killer drop-offs and breath-taking views. It’s so foreign and frightening, all you can do is laugh.
Once the ride comes to an end, your reward is laid out before you: a busting mountain village amongst the cloudy heavens. A trail of activity leads you to the pièce de résistance. Witness hefty tourists being carried on the backs of able bodied men like royalty, roving ice-pop and samosa vendors, exotic street stalls (fried snake anyone?), random explosions of cash being thrown in the air for good luck, the cutest babies in the world and thousands of devotees focused on their pilgrimage.
And then there’s the Golden Rock. Indeed, it’s a spectacular site to be seen, especially in light of the panoramic views in the background. According to legend, the mammoth feature is precariously perched on a strand of the Buddha’s hair, making it the third most important pilgrimage site after the Shwedagon Pagoda and Mahamuni Buddha Temple. But, as a non-Buddhist tourist, I have to say Golden Rock delivered the most memorable travel experience.
There you have it, six mind-blowing experiences just waiting to ignite your eternal love for Myanmar. Put this magnificent country on your radar, add these authentic adventures to your bucket list, get amongst the action, share your stories and enjoy the memories. They’ll be one of a kind.
The clock struck four, when Ben’s phone told us it was time to get our butts out of bed. Today was a special day, so I wasn’t in my usual pre-breakfast zombie-like state. Despite the fact that it was closer to my bedtime than my usual waking time, I felt energised. The infamous Angkor Wat was waiting for us.
After a quick tuk-tuk ride and the usual ticketing booth formalities, we commenced the walk towards that enchanting, world-renowned silhouette, our anticipation building with each step. The deep beat of jungle drums drifted through the air, setting the mood perfectly. The impressive crowd of tourists was in a quiet trance-like state, waiting for the stage lights to switch on and the star attraction to make itself known. For now, Angkor Wat was sitting in the shadows, lit only by a thin lip of burnt orange and fuschia. And so we waited…
As we ensconced ourselves in the dewy grass and sat back with our sugar-loaded coffees, the sun slowly came out to play. The glassy dam between us and the Mother of all Temples captured her reflection in all of its glory. As Angkor Wat rose from her slumber, it seemed like she’d brought a mirror to her face just to make sure everything was in order before we snapped away like crazed paparazzi.
After the big moment had come and gone, it was time to enter the gates of Angkor Wat and take a closer look. She was more magnificent than I’d imagined – like a long-limbed lady covered in ornate henna tattoos. Her walls and corridors stretched far and wide, every inch of them covered in curious engravings, stunning motifs and precious sculptures.
The wave of tourists quickly dissipated, as people wandered off in different directions and got lost amongst the endless network of hallways and doorways. The architectural symmetry was simply genius, messing with my head like a giant mirrored maze. Every way I looked and turned, there was a stunning, rustic frame staring back at me. It was a photographer’s paradise.
Soon it was time to move on to Bayon, the next temple in our tour. We went on the hunt for our tuk-tuk driver, which proved to be a serious challenge. The carpark looked like it was hosting a tuk-tuk rally. At this point, we realised we should have photographed our driver and his vehicle before wandering off.
Eventually we heard our voices being called in the distance – once lost, we’d been found. After a short drive, our team of three was delivered to the doorstep of Bayon, which captured our attention immediately. Decorated with 126 mammoth faces, it’s thought to be a narcissistic shrine to King Jayavarman VII, the mastermind behind the Temples of Angkor. Witnessing the majesty of his vision, I couldn’t help but think he had the right to be pleased with himself.
Next, it was time to tackle the popular Temple of Ta Prohm. A perfect union between divine ruins and mother nature, it was nothing short of spectacular. The roots of the silk-cotton trees had grown through the temple walls like veins keeping a heart alive. I could see why Tomb Raider had been filmed here. The atmosphere was truly magical. I found myself being transported back to the 12th Century, when Ta Prohm had housed hundreds of dancers, high priests, gold, pearls, silks and beyond. It sounded like a dream.
Over the course of the next couple of hours we went on to view a few more historic sites. They were all dwarfed by Angkor Wat and its cool cousins. As my husband put it, “It’s hard to get excited by foreplay after sex.” Having said that, watching the sun rise over Angkor Wat proved to be a memorable, must-see moment. In hindsight, we should have bought a three-day pass, so we could better appreciate the lesser known attractions and work our way up to the main event.
To complete our once-in-a-lifetime experience of Angkor Wat, we decided to see the grounds from a different perspective – “gibbon view”. I’d been craving an adrenalin rush for a while and Flight of the Gibbon sounded right up my alley. Guiding us through a series of sky-high zip lines, tree houses and bridge walks, it certainly got my heart pumping. I’m usually good with heights, but when our tiny 150m-high platform started swaying in the wind, I quickly conjured up an escape plan. Surely jumping towards the nearest branch and holding on for dear life would save me?
After three hours of flying between the trees, our group finally had the swing of things. I was racing across the barely-there bridges and dangling from the wires like a pro-gibbon – no sweat. I could see why Flight of the Gibbon was killing it on Trip Advisor. The experience was the right kind of challenging and certainly thrilling, offering a change of pace to the temple tours. And, by the end of the day, I was all “templed out”.
Sophee Smiles 