DELHI FOR DAYS

Sometimes, things don’t go to plan for a reason. Life stops you in your tracks and forces you to take a break. That’s exactly what happened to Ben and me during our time in Delhi. We had grand plans to plough through our next bunch of visa applications in India’s administrative capital. Unfortunately, we were a little too idealistic for our own good.

While Pakistan visas were surprisingly easy to get hold of, our China visas were declined due to our unique mode of travel (a private, overland vehicle). Ben brought all of his loveable charms to the yard and I argued with logic, but the Chinese embassy wasn’t budging on their decision. We later discovered very few foreigners had their visas approved in Delhi due to tensions between India and China. If only we’d known that sooner!

While Ben and I played the pointless waiting game, five days eventually turned into two weeks. Before we knew it, Delhi was starting to feel like home. For the first time in months, we actually had time to really get under the skin of a place and develop something resembling a routine. We weren’t just racing through the typical tourist agenda – it was bliss.

Here are some of my most memorable moments from Delhi – the must-do’s, the accidental finds, and the heart-warming local interactions.

During our stay in Delhi, Ben and I were based at the Smyle Inn hostel. Located in the Main Bazaar, this backpackers’ sanctuary is nestled right amongst the action. Street theatre abounds, especially later in the day, when roaming cows, veteran food vendors, henna artists, haggard beggars, sharp-eyed hawkers, and gangly rickshaw drivers all fight for a little good fortune.

But, while they look out for themselves, the locals also take care of each other…two-legged, four-legged and wonky-legged friends alike. I ran into one street dog, which was particularly “pampered”, as she’d just given birth to a pup. Shopkeepers were keeping her well fed, so she could enjoy being a new mum and put aside her usual street dog duties (i.e. hunting for food in mounds of garbage).

Having experienced several bouts of food poisoning since being in India, the street food wasn’t as enticing as it used to be. Though, I must admit, there was one devilish concoction which caught my attention – thickly battered, deep-fried, cheese-loaded sandwiches. OMG! Only in India (and probably America).

Before I was tempted to eat something that’d surely make me sick (in more ways than one), Harish from the Smyle Inn let me in on a local foodie secret – Haldiram’s. This modern, Indian franchise dished out a feast of traditional, tasty and super cheap eats. The place looked more hygienic than McDonald’s and the food certainly had more soul. It’s a great option for tourists wanting a taste of local flavours without fearing the repercussions.

At the end of the day, Ben and I favoured rooftop restaurants and backstreet cafes. Our top picks were the Brown Bread Bakery, which served healthy and organic meals, and The Exotic Roof Top Restaurant, which offered prime views of the local street life.

Weirdly enough, navigating the mayhem of the Main Bazaar became a daily “escape” for me. I’ve always felt most at ease amongst the hustle and bustle, where I can blend into the background, observe things in secret and fuel my imagination.

This particular bazaar was like catnip for women. It was jam-packed with fashion stands selling everything from traditional clothing and casual travel-wear to handmade bags, ornate jewellery and funky shoes. While I succumbed to lane of cheap hippy gear like every other tie-dye wearing tourist (for comfort reasons of course), there’s something about buying mass produced chintz that leaves me feeling a little…blurgh. So, when I stumbled across a beautiful boutique in a blink-n-miss-it back alley, I got rather excited. Bubbles Fashion was like nothing I’d seen throughout India’s tourist hubs – the pieces were original, well made and understated. It was time to refresh my weary travel wardrobe!

There’s no better way to explore the world’s big cities than by bicycle. Every major destination seems to have a tour group (or ten) and Delhi was no different. Ben and I teamed up with DelhiByCycle for an early morning ride around the old town. The monsoonal heavens opened up, making the experience even more playful and thrilling. Navigating through the dingiest backstreets of India’s capital was truly wild in the wet weather. At every moment, we were madly dodging something – men with giant slabs of meat on their backs; rogue tuk-tuk drivers; territorial street dogs; wafts of urine intertwined with warm, fresh rain; hanging electrical wires and locals on a mission.

Thanks to our savvy tour guide, Ben and I explored places we never knew existed. At one point, we hoped off our bikes and wandered through a residential complex which revealed a “real” side to Delhi life we hadn’t yet encountered – dozens of people sleeping on cement floors, surrounded by piles of rubbish. While it was hard to witness, the residents seemed content. During our tour, Ben and I were also taken to local hot spots for chai tea and a traditional Indian breakfast. Both went down a treat in the soggy weather – they were little moments of luxury amidst the rough ‘n’ raw sites.

Of course, we couldn’t stay in Delhi for two weeks and miss its star attractions. At the top of most tourist’s lists are: The Red Fort, India Gate, the Lotus Temple, and Qutab Minar – the largest brick minaret in the world. All of these man-made structures were charming and majestic in their own way; but, it was hard to appreciate their intricate beauty at times, as we were regularly pulled aside by Indian tourists wanting a happy snap with foreigners. So it seemed, we’d become the main attraction!

Delhi is also home to a number of impressive records, which are worth witnessing firsthand. Khari Baoli, Asia’s biggest spice market, is a boisterous affair, with over 30,000 vocal vendors selling every spice under the sun. I loved losing myself to the bustling, aromatic backstreets and getting thrown into the action. Wandering the main thoroughfare was an equally intriguing experience, but much grittier (if you’re new to India, you’ll find it a little confronting). But, before too long, Ben and I found ourselves in Delhi’s bridal wear zone. Spice shops had turned into glamourous boutiques selling ornate couture and blindingly colourful bling. Yet again, I was stuck by the wild contrasts living side-by-side in India. 

To enjoy a bit of Western “normality”, Ben and I enjoyed a date night in Connaught Place. A cosmopolitan hot spot for Indian execs, loved up couples and tourists, it’s a slice of contemporary heaven for those seeking a unique dining experience or simply a night at the movies. It’s also home to India’s biggest national flag (63m high), surrounded by well-manicured gardens and Indian teens taking selfies.

After two weeks, the shock of Delhi had worn off and I’d fallen in love with this crazy city. While it’s packed with over 11 million people, there’s a distinct intimacy about the place which shouts louder than the constant sea of honking vehicles and bellowing touts. The micro-communities were fascinating and their daily routines seemed completely entrenched. In two weeks, the madness of the Main Bazaar started to make sense. I’d discovered how things worked and learnt how to swim with the tidal wave. But, just when I was starting to feel like a local, it was time to leave.

BEWITCHED BY HAMPI

Before arriving in India, Hampi had been on my bucket list for a while…but, I couldn’t tell you why. For some unknown reason, it was one of the few places I could name in India. Perhaps I’d heard wonderful whispers about Hampi without really taking them in. While I knew I wanted to visit this mysterious place, I didn’t have a clue what made it special. So, as Ben and I approached this tourist Mecca, I tucked into some research. Here are a few insights which caught my attention:

• Hampi, which means “champion”, is located within the infamous ruins of Vijayanagara, the former capital of the Vijayanagara Empire.
• The ruins are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• Hampi formed one of the core areas of the Vijayanagara Empire from 1343 to 1565. It was chosen because of its strategic location, bounded by the torrential Tungabhadra River on one side and surrounded by defensible hills on its other three sides.
• Hampi continues to be a significant historical, architectural and religious site. It’s home to many notable Hindu temples, some of which are still active places of worship.
• The extant monuments of Vijayanagara (or Hampi) can be divided into Religious, Civil and Military buildings.
• While most of the monuments in Hampi are from the Vijayanagara period, a small proportion have been assigned to pre-Vijayanagara times. The first historical settlements in Hampi date back to 1CE!

While these insights were certainly fascinating, it wasn’t until Ben and I arrived in Hampi that we understood why it was a major pit stop on the traveller circuit. We were spellbound from the moment we laid eyes on the mars-like landscape. It was so different to anything we’d seen before – a sea of giant boulders perched precariously over miles of undulated terrain, their rusty hues offset by zesty green palm groves, banana plantations and paddy fields. A perfect azure sky, peppered with fluffy white Simpson’s clouds, enhanced the epic atmosphere. The forlorn ruins seemed scattered across Hampi’s dramatic scenery, their former beauty still glimmering through the harsh destruction of time.

Before long, Ben and I had lost ourselves to the ancient relics. With only a half day available to explore Hampi, we stuck to the area’s main attractions, including the Vittala Temple and its iconic stone chariot, market corridors and musical pillars. Wandering through the mammoth temple entrance, we were transported to a bygone era. It’s ornate walls oozed secrets from the past – the architecture was mesmerising.

As Ben and I wrapped up our time in Hampi and started our journey to Goa, we watched the legendary landscape fly past our car windows in distracted silence. It was amazing to see how millions of years of volcanic activity and erosion could result in a beautifully bewitching backdrop. If only we’d had time to linger a little longer.

5 WAYS TO CHILL OUT IN GOA DURING THE MONSOON

When you imagine a holiday in Goa, sun-kissed beaches, wild parties, and hordes of hippies probably come to mind. What if I was to tell you this tourist hot spot becomes particularly blissful throughout the Monsoon Season?

Few international tourists realise Goa is a playground 365 days of the year. The idea of visiting during its wettest months might seem strange; but, for travellers who dream of total relaxation, a beautiful backdrop and mellow holiday vibe, it’s the perfect time to chill out in this aspirational destination. Here are some of my favourite ways to unwind and soak up the magic of Goa during the Monsoon.

#1 Explore the Tropical Spice Plantation

A trip to India isn’t complete without a visit to a spice plantation. When Goa takes on a slower pace, it’s the perfect time to head towards the lush hills and discover spices in their most natural state. Ben and I visited the Tropical Spice Plantation in Keri (Ponda). Upon arrival, we were welcomed with traditional offerings of flower garlands, kumkum (red, round marks impressed on our foreheads) and herbal teas. Our guided tour immersed us in nature, revitalised our senses and filled our brains with new knowledge about spices. During the gentle stroll, we were able to mingle with buffalos, elephants, dogs, cats, monkeys, ducks and rare species of birds. They were all rather jealous of our buffet lunch, which included a mountain of traditional and nutritious foods served in banana leaves. After our walking tour and spice-infused feast, the only thing left to do was visit the gift shop!

#2 Get Your Chef’s Hat On at a Goan Cooking Class

For me, the act of preparing delicious food is wonderfully therapeutic. Once I’d witnessed spices in their purest form, I was eager to learn how to cook with them! Goa is home to many divine dishes, which are unique to the area. Goan Fish Curry is just the beginning, but it’s hard to go past. Ben and I learnt how to make this signature recipe, along with Tandoori Chicken, at the Grand Hyatt. The hotel’s Indian restaurant, Chulha, offers abridged cooking classes for guests, and there are many other courses on offer throughout Goa. No matter which operator you choose, you’re guaranteed to feel inspired by the ingenious use of spices in Indian cuisine. Ben and I realised we had many of the vital ingredients in our kitchen back home. The only problem was we had no idea how to turn them into something special. Well, now we do! And, we can’t wait to cook up an Indian feast once we get back to Australia.

#3 Sign Up for a Detox & Yoga Retreat

In this day and age, most of us are bombarded with toxins on a regular basis, from the air pollution we breathe to the processed foods we eat. Goa is home to a number of eco-conscious resorts, which offer detox retreats and aim to give your body a break and health boost. I opted for a 5-day Juice Cleanse and Yoga Program with The Beach House and will never forget the experience. My days were filled with remedial massages, nutrient-rich beverages, educational health talks, colonics, walks on the beach, one-on-one yoga classes, meditation and “me time”. It was bliss. And, I came out the other side having reduced my bio-age by 3 years, improved my ph level from 6 (acidic) to 8 (alkaline) and dropped 2kg. I’m keen to come back and do it all again next year!

#4 Let Your Hair Down on a Floating Casino

For a more upbeat way to unwind, enjoy one of Goa’s signature holiday experiences – the floating casinos. Ben and I ventured out to the Deltin Royale, India’s most grandiose party boat for gamblers. We kicked our night off with an epic feast on the middle floor, where buffet treats, alcoholic beverages, cabaret dancers and party beats set the indulgent tone for the evening. It wasn’t long before the gaming zones captured our curiosity. While we’re not big gamblers, it was fascinating watching the different dynamics at play. The air of exhilaration was infectious, and we were absorbed in the action for hours. By the time we caught a tender back to the peaceful mainland and crawled into bed, we were completely spent.

#5 Live in the Lap of Luxury 

Few places are more relaxing than luxury resorts and hotels – they’re slices of holiday heaven where your every whim gets catered for. Goa’s stateliest establishment, the Grand Hyatt, is pure comfort and escapism of the finest kind. Ben and I had the pleasure of staying in one of the ocean-view suites, which formed a royal base for our many decedent escapades. The hotel runs daily activities to keep guests entertained during the Monsoon, from fondue evenings and Indian-inspired cocktail classes to yoga sessions and detox days. The spa complex was more like a state-of-the-art sanctuary, offering male and female spas, steam rooms, a gymnasium, relaxation room, indoor pools, beauty salon and enticing massage menu. Meal times were pamper sessions in their own right. Ben and I always savour opportunities to enjoy good food, made with love, expertise and careful consideration. At the Grand Hyatt, every experience seemed to involve those three ingredients. We felt truly taken care of – like the weight of stress and chaos had been taken off our shoulders.

Whatever your chill out style, Goa offers something to help you unwind and enjoy the enchanting charm of the Monsoon Season. From lavish resorts and fun-filled nights to health retreats, educational activities and time with nature, there’s a world of locally inspired adventure waiting to be enjoyed. While Goa is a prized holiday destination throughout winter, it’s particularly breathtaking during the Monsoon when it turns into a lush and peaceful playground. So, make sure you experience Goa’s unique diversity and sample this world-renowned travel destination during the different seasons – not just the sunny ones.

6 MIND-BLOWING EXPERIENCES IN MYANMAR

I have no doubt that if you make the journey Myanmar, the country and its people will capture your heart. A place where Betel Nut smiles and enthusiastic waves are always on tap, the locals will literally take you by the hand and bring you into their world. They are truly beautiful both inside and out.

Not generally at the top of holiday-goers’ to-do lists, Myanmar is relatively untouched by tourism and seems to be one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Foreigners are a rare sight, which means they are treated like much-loved celebrities. It’s hard not to feel welcome.

We explored Myanmar as part of a guided tour, a requirement for overland adventurers. Having found a group of similarly placed travellers via Horizons Unlimited, we were able to bring the total cost down and enjoy the journey with kindred spirits.

We chose to team up with Myanmar Senses for our tour and highly recommend it as a company. The guides took care of our every need, including the tedious aspects of overland travel (e.g. border post transitions, paying toll fees, figuring out where to eat, arranging hotel bookings, topping us up with bottled water and face wipes, and finding toilets etc.). In the context of Myanmar, it was luxury.

Throughout the ten-day journey, I encountered some of my favourite travel experiences to date. They will forever remain tattooed to my brain and I hope my tales about them lure you to the captivating land of Myanmar. 

#1 THINGYAN WATER FESTIVAL (YANGON)

There is simply no better time to visit Mynmar than during the Thingyan Water Festival. The marathon water fight welcomes in the New Year over four days in April, showcasing the local spirit and vibrant community in all of their glory.

While celebrations go wet ‘n’ wild throughout the country (even in the middle of nowhere), the heartbeat of the action is Yangon, Myanmar’s most populated city. The scene is like a kids’ ultimate battleground, a water wonderland with infinite weapons of mass drenching, including: water pistols, buckets, hoses, drums, water bottles and super strength water jets. Staying dry isn’t an option.

The fun is unavoidably infectious. Kids, the elderly, breastfeeding mum’s, families on scooters, street food vendors, rebellious monks, police officers, tourists…everyone is quick to let their hair down and join in the fun.

The battle course, an inescapable ring around the city centre, is lined with thousands of hoses mounted on concert stages. The area is positively pumping with dance, techno and popular beats. The base reverberates through every fibre of your body, igniting your adrenalin and enhancing the thrill of the battle.

Utes, packed to the brim with jumping passengers, bounce their way through the course like something out of an R&B video clip. Other party-goers (mainly teenage boys with pop-punk fashion, black make-up and wild hair cuts) weave their way through the traffic, stopping to dance and get drenched along the way.

It’s one of the funniest and most uplifting things I’ve seen in my life. People letting go of their inhibitions, strangers hugging each other and roaring the words, “Happy New Year!”, and an entire community sharing in a tremendously joyous experience. Thingyan just goes to show, people can simply get high on fun – no drugs or alcohol required.

#2 SHWEDAGON PAGODA (YANGON)

The first time you gaze upon this majestic creation, you’ll understand why she’s the Mother of all pagodas. Epic in every way imaginable, Shwedagon is the biggest, blingiest, most beloved Buddhist stupa in Myanmar. Constructed more than 2,500 years ago, she is also the oldest in the world.

So the story goes, people all over the country, as well as monarchs throughout Myanmar’s history, have donated gold to the pagoda to maintain it. The practice continues to this day after being started in the 15th century by the Queen Binnya Thau, who literally gave her weight in gold. Today, this ultra-opulent structure has become so blindingly beautiful, you practically need to wear sunnies just to look at it!

Considering her history and majesty, it’s little wonder Shwedagon Pagoda has become a focus of religious as well as community activities for the people of Myanmar. As you explore the temple compound, which extends well beyond the star attraction, local life takes stage before you. From meditating monks and bustling devotees to flower vendors and family feasts, it’s surprisingly lively for a spiritual sanctuary. So, sit back, soak up a bit of Myanmar culture and study a true wonder of the religious world.

#3 THE ANCIENT KINGDOM (BAGAN)

A trip to the Bagan plains is an enchanting journey into the past. This kingdom experienced its golden era between the 11^th and 13^th centuries, when over 10,000 ornate Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries were built.

Today, many of these structures still exist albeit in a weathered, battle-worn state. This gives the area an eerie gravesite-like vibe. It’s like a beautiful forgotten land, with thousands of stories locked mysteriously inside its crumbling walls. Having said that, the temples certainly haven’t been forgotten…

The Bagan Archaeological Zone is one of Myanmar’s major tourist draw cards. As such, it’s perfectly set up to accommodate visitors, offering an extensive menu of hotels, resorts and restaurants. Akin to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the star attractions are swarming with holiday-goers around sunset, all looking to capture the perfect money shot.

Smart dessert dogs are hot on the tourist trail. Weaving in between bushes, buses and boulder-structures, they hunt out any crumb of food they can possibly find. It only makes the experience seem more wild and true to life.

If you want to avoid the hustle and bustle, explore the temples at sunrise. The ancient city is possibly more picturesque at the crack of dawn, especially when it’s peak season and a dozen or so air-balloons take to the skies.

I have no doubt Bagon will climb the “so hot right now” travel destination list along with Myanmar. So, get in quick before this mystical place loses some of its raw charm.

#4 U BEIN BRIDGE (MANDALAY)

If it wasn’t peppered with litter, this site would be one of the most picturesque in Myanmar. Even with it blemishes, U Bein Bridge is pretty impressive. Built in 1850 and stretching a mighty 1.2km, it’s the oldest and longest teakwood bridge in the world. For both of these reasons, it’s a slightly knee-trembling experience trying to cross it. With hundreds of other people stomping on its planks at any given time, it feels like this rustic relic could collapse at any moment…and it’s a long sprint to terra firma!

Having said that, there are a number of utterly magical moments to be enjoyed at this local hot-spot-come-tourist-hub. A sunset boat ride around Taungthaman Lake is one of them. Weave in between angelic birds like a scene out of The Notebook as the silhouette of U Bein Bridge ripples on the water surface.

For another peaceful moment, wander away from the bridge (past the restaurants) until you reach the goose farm. If you time things just right, you’ll get to watch the owners herd hundreds of the feathered flappers back into their enclosure like pros. The lake and sunset in the background make for glorious photographs and time-lapse videos.

I recommend arriving at U Bein Bridge at least an hour before sunset if you want to relax, enjoy the experiences on offer and capture every picturesque moment. The site is heaving with people at this time of day, so everything takes longer than expected.

Plus, there’s so much to do! You can explore the markets (I had to get myself a watermelon seed bag), make the slow journey across the bridge, sip on coconuts by the water’s edge, play with farm animals and take a gazillion photos. If you’re up for a calmer experience, make the journey to U Bein Bridge for sunrise.

#5 MAHAMUNI BUDDHA TEMPLE (MANDALAY)

For a taste of Myanmar madness (the good kind), head to the Mahamuni Buddha Temple. This highly venerated pilgrimage site draws thousands of visitors on a daily basis. Ancient tradition refers to only five likenesses of the Buddha made during his lifetime: two in India, two in paradise, and the fifth is the Mahamuni Buddha image in Mandalay. It’s little wonder this sacred site has become such a nucleus of activity for the people of Myanmar.

From the moment you attempt to spot a car park amongst the sea of scooters, you know things are about to get seriously frantic. As you push your way through the markets, which masterfully filter people through to the temple, your senses get swept away by a tantalising cocktail of vivid colours, hunger-inducing smells and curious events.

Once you finally make it into the main compound, the crowd becomes “next-level” hectic. Devotees, monks and visitors clog every artery leading to its heart, the Muhamundi Buddha statue (which can only be approached by men).

While this might sound like most people’s idea of hell, it’s actually quite a fun experience. Being thrust into a festival of Myanmar culture is truly thrilling. The locals, especially the women, make an incredible effort to wear their finest and brightest traditional clothing. The result is a moving palette of rich colours, which would put an Indian wedding to shame.

As a visitor, I think the best way to enjoy this sacred site is take a step back and watch the unique rituals and events unfold. Oh! And don’t forget to buy one of the homemade, technicolour ice-creams. They’re heaven in the heat.

#6 GOLDEN ROCK (MT KYAIKTIYO) 

This has to be one of the most entertaining things a traveller can do in Myanmar. But, it’s not the act of pasting gold leaf on a gravity-defying rock which makes it so engaging. It’s the bus ride up Mt Kyaiktiyo which really gets your giggles going.

The buses in regional Myanmar aren’t like the ones we complain about in the Western World. They are giant, rickety, open-air trucks with bench seats in the back. People are packed into them like cattl; strangers sit shoulder to shoulder and knee to bum under a blazing sun. The unlucky buggers in the middle have nowhere to look but up. And that’s not the half of it.

The bus trip up Mt Kyaiktiyo is a knuckle-biting, heart-stopping, boob-bouncing thrill ride like no other. The course involves a relentless series of hairpin turns, steep inclines, killer drop-offs and breath-taking views. It’s so foreign and frightening, all you can do is laugh.

Once the ride comes to an end, your reward is laid out before you: a busting mountain village amongst the cloudy heavens. A trail of activity leads you to the pièce de résistance. Witness hefty tourists being carried on the backs of able bodied men like royalty, roving ice-pop and samosa vendors, exotic street stalls (fried snake anyone?), random explosions of cash being thrown in the air for good luck, the cutest babies in the world and thousands of devotees focused on their pilgrimage.

And then there’s the Golden Rock. Indeed, it’s a spectacular site to be seen, especially in light of the panoramic views in the background. According to legend, the mammoth feature is precariously perched on a strand of the Buddha’s hair, making it the third most important pilgrimage site after the Shwedagon Pagoda and Mahamuni Buddha Temple. But, as a non-Buddhist tourist, I have to say Golden Rock delivered the most memorable travel experience.

There you have it, six mind-blowing experiences just waiting to ignite your eternal love for Myanmar. Put this magnificent country on your radar, add these authentic adventures to your bucket list, get amongst the action,  share your stories and enjoy the memories. They’ll be one of a kind.