DELHI FOR DAYS

Sometimes, things don’t go to plan for a reason. Life stops you in your tracks and forces you to take a break. That’s exactly what happened to Ben and me during our time in Delhi. We had grand plans to plough through our next bunch of visa applications in India’s administrative capital. Unfortunately, we were a little too idealistic for our own good.

While Pakistan visas were surprisingly easy to get hold of, our China visas were declined due to our unique mode of travel (a private, overland vehicle). Ben brought all of his loveable charms to the yard and I argued with logic, but the Chinese embassy wasn’t budging on their decision. We later discovered very few foreigners had their visas approved in Delhi due to tensions between India and China. If only we’d known that sooner!

While Ben and I played the pointless waiting game, five days eventually turned into two weeks. Before we knew it, Delhi was starting to feel like home. For the first time in months, we actually had time to really get under the skin of a place and develop something resembling a routine. We weren’t just racing through the typical tourist agenda – it was bliss.

Here are some of my most memorable moments from Delhi – the must-do’s, the accidental finds, and the heart-warming local interactions.

During our stay in Delhi, Ben and I were based at the Smyle Inn hostel. Located in the Main Bazaar, this backpackers’ sanctuary is nestled right amongst the action. Street theatre abounds, especially later in the day, when roaming cows, veteran food vendors, henna artists, haggard beggars, sharp-eyed hawkers, and gangly rickshaw drivers all fight for a little good fortune.

But, while they look out for themselves, the locals also take care of each other…two-legged, four-legged and wonky-legged friends alike. I ran into one street dog, which was particularly “pampered”, as she’d just given birth to a pup. Shopkeepers were keeping her well fed, so she could enjoy being a new mum and put aside her usual street dog duties (i.e. hunting for food in mounds of garbage).

Having experienced several bouts of food poisoning since being in India, the street food wasn’t as enticing as it used to be. Though, I must admit, there was one devilish concoction which caught my attention – thickly battered, deep-fried, cheese-loaded sandwiches. OMG! Only in India (and probably America).

Before I was tempted to eat something that’d surely make me sick (in more ways than one), Harish from the Smyle Inn let me in on a local foodie secret – Haldiram’s. This modern, Indian franchise dished out a feast of traditional, tasty and super cheap eats. The place looked more hygienic than McDonald’s and the food certainly had more soul. It’s a great option for tourists wanting a taste of local flavours without fearing the repercussions.

At the end of the day, Ben and I favoured rooftop restaurants and backstreet cafes. Our top picks were the Brown Bread Bakery, which served healthy and organic meals, and The Exotic Roof Top Restaurant, which offered prime views of the local street life.

Weirdly enough, navigating the mayhem of the Main Bazaar became a daily “escape” for me. I’ve always felt most at ease amongst the hustle and bustle, where I can blend into the background, observe things in secret and fuel my imagination.

This particular bazaar was like catnip for women. It was jam-packed with fashion stands selling everything from traditional clothing and casual travel-wear to handmade bags, ornate jewellery and funky shoes. While I succumbed to lane of cheap hippy gear like every other tie-dye wearing tourist (for comfort reasons of course), there’s something about buying mass produced chintz that leaves me feeling a little…blurgh. So, when I stumbled across a beautiful boutique in a blink-n-miss-it back alley, I got rather excited. Bubbles Fashion was like nothing I’d seen throughout India’s tourist hubs – the pieces were original, well made and understated. It was time to refresh my weary travel wardrobe!

There’s no better way to explore the world’s big cities than by bicycle. Every major destination seems to have a tour group (or ten) and Delhi was no different. Ben and I teamed up with DelhiByCycle for an early morning ride around the old town. The monsoonal heavens opened up, making the experience even more playful and thrilling. Navigating through the dingiest backstreets of India’s capital was truly wild in the wet weather. At every moment, we were madly dodging something – men with giant slabs of meat on their backs; rogue tuk-tuk drivers; territorial street dogs; wafts of urine intertwined with warm, fresh rain; hanging electrical wires and locals on a mission.

Thanks to our savvy tour guide, Ben and I explored places we never knew existed. At one point, we hoped off our bikes and wandered through a residential complex which revealed a “real” side to Delhi life we hadn’t yet encountered – dozens of people sleeping on cement floors, surrounded by piles of rubbish. While it was hard to witness, the residents seemed content. During our tour, Ben and I were also taken to local hot spots for chai tea and a traditional Indian breakfast. Both went down a treat in the soggy weather – they were little moments of luxury amidst the rough ‘n’ raw sites.

Of course, we couldn’t stay in Delhi for two weeks and miss its star attractions. At the top of most tourist’s lists are: The Red Fort, India Gate, the Lotus Temple, and Qutab Minar – the largest brick minaret in the world. All of these man-made structures were charming and majestic in their own way; but, it was hard to appreciate their intricate beauty at times, as we were regularly pulled aside by Indian tourists wanting a happy snap with foreigners. So it seemed, we’d become the main attraction!

Delhi is also home to a number of impressive records, which are worth witnessing firsthand. Khari Baoli, Asia’s biggest spice market, is a boisterous affair, with over 30,000 vocal vendors selling every spice under the sun. I loved losing myself to the bustling, aromatic backstreets and getting thrown into the action. Wandering the main thoroughfare was an equally intriguing experience, but much grittier (if you’re new to India, you’ll find it a little confronting). But, before too long, Ben and I found ourselves in Delhi’s bridal wear zone. Spice shops had turned into glamourous boutiques selling ornate couture and blindingly colourful bling. Yet again, I was stuck by the wild contrasts living side-by-side in India. 

To enjoy a bit of Western “normality”, Ben and I enjoyed a date night in Connaught Place. A cosmopolitan hot spot for Indian execs, loved up couples and tourists, it’s a slice of contemporary heaven for those seeking a unique dining experience or simply a night at the movies. It’s also home to India’s biggest national flag (63m high), surrounded by well-manicured gardens and Indian teens taking selfies.

After two weeks, the shock of Delhi had worn off and I’d fallen in love with this crazy city. While it’s packed with over 11 million people, there’s a distinct intimacy about the place which shouts louder than the constant sea of honking vehicles and bellowing touts. The micro-communities were fascinating and their daily routines seemed completely entrenched. In two weeks, the madness of the Main Bazaar started to make sense. I’d discovered how things worked and learnt how to swim with the tidal wave. But, just when I was starting to feel like a local, it was time to leave.

REVIEW: THE GRAND HYATT, GOA (BAMBOLIM)

How would you describe it? Grandiose, ambitious, exquisite, welcoming, and family-friendly.

Who’d love it? Surprisingly, families! The Grand Hyatt is well equipped to cater for little ones. This state-of-the-art hotel would also make a great venue for weddings and business conferences.

How were the rooms?

Let’s just start by saying it was bigger than our entire townhouse back home in Oz. From the moment we entered the atrium, we couldn’t contain our dumfounded delight. We were like school children giggling at an inside joke – the lavishness of our room was brilliantly absurd. How did we get so lucky?! The entrance, decorated with fresh flowers, opened up to a vast, open-plan living room and dining area. A coffee machine, generous bowl of ripe fruit and jars of naughty treats were ready to welcome us. Before Ben and I tucked in, we needed to explore the all-important bedroom.

It was the stuff of dreams. The king-sized bed was so deliciously soft it felt as though I was being hugged to sleep. Behind the ultra-comfy bedroom was a bathroom fit for a queen. It contained so many specialised areas, we kept getting lost! And, just to add a little extra ostentatiousness, there was a remote controlled wall offering a choice between privacy and exhibitionism. As I started to open the bedroom curtains, I turned to Ben and said, “How can this possibly get any better?”. My question was answered before it ended. So it seemed, our room was bordered by a runway-length balcony with a state-of-the-art Jacuzzi and ocean views. It was time to jump up and down with joy.

How was the service?

I love staying at a hotel when I can tell the entire staff community shares a genuine and united passion for its mission and values. At the Grand Hyatt, it’s obvious everyone from the GM to the gardener is driven by the desire to create a flawless yet homely space for guests. There was a refreshing sincerity to their smiles and support.

I also valued the personalised service delivered at the Grand Hyatt. The staff were practically psychic and eager to go the extra mile. After a long day of filming, photographing and touring the hotel grounds, Ben and I came back to our room to discover it’d been showered in rose petals. A little romance and relaxation were exactly what we needed. It’s easy to get caught up in the work side of things when you’re a travel writer and forget to stop and enjoy the moment. Not at the Grand Hyatt! 

How was the food? 

The Grand Hyatt is a place where one can indulge in dessert during breakfast, lunch and dinner. The lavish breakfast spread was temptation of the ultimate kind, offering everything from freshly made waffles with several flavours of ice-cream to the finest pastries and masterfully decorated cakes. Of course, the usual local and international suspects were on offer, too, plus a deli section that was to die for (cream cheese with smoked salmon on a fresh bagel anyone?). Lunch is next level, and will leave you feeling like Marie Antoinette. Dinner presents a world of options but Ben and I stuck with the hotel’s Indian restaurant, Chulha. We were treated to a special cooking class with the chefs before we tucked into the tastiest Indian meal either of us had ever cooked. At the Grand Hyatt, every morsel is obviously made with love, expertise, playfulness and careful consideration.

What were the highlights?

From the moment we drove our Landy through the stately entrance gates, Ben and I were in awe of the Grand Hyatt’s unique aesthetic. The architecture was a beautiful mix of Hindu, Portuguese and contemporary influences. Every structure was paradoxically grand and down-to-earth. The use of natural fibres, tones, artworks and décor was very clever, making us feel both pampered and right at home.

The spa complex was pretty memorable, too. As we wandered past the ultramodern massage rooms, gymnasium, indoor pool, relaxation room, salons, steam rooms and private female/male spas – all blindingly white – we felt like we were in a sci-fi flick. Ben and I were “the lucky ones” who got to live on the utopia-themed spaceship. It was blissfully eerie.

What’s different about the place? 

At first glance, the Grand Hyatt stood out due to its sheer size. Spread across 28 acres of prime beachfront land, the hotel was often explored by buggy rather than by foot. The common areas were so extensive, there were staff dedicated to offering directions (we took advantage of this on many occasions!). The gardens, despite their vastness, were perfectly manicured. There was also a beautifully weathered 16^th Century chapel on the grounds, which begged to be photographed.

Another interesting point-of-difference was the Grand Hyatt’s menu of guest activities, which seemed to be season specific. During the monsoon, they were designed to keep holiday-goers entertained indoors. Everything from Indian cooking classes and fondue evenings to beer ‘n’ hop tastings and detox days were on offer. I could’ve happily lived at the Grand Hyatt for many months! During my stay, I well-and-truly became a Grand Hyatt girl – it’s an incredible brand which consistently delivers my favourite hotel experiences around the world.

How would you rate the overall experience? 9.7 out of 10 grand entrances.

Resort Details:
Goa University, Bambolim, Goa 403206
Ph: 0832 301 1234
www.goa.grand.hyatt.com/en/hotel/home.html

SIMPLE ROOFTOP WORKOUT FOR HAPPY TRAVELLERS

I’m often asked what I miss most about home. Strangely enough, it’s the thing I resented most before I left home – routine. But, after four straight months of living out of a suitcase and travelling between cities, I’m craving structure. Why? Because it’s so much easier to foster a healthy lifestyle when you’re surroundings and schedule are stable.

Finding time and a safe space to exercise can be a serious challenge for travellers, especially in crowded cities (hitting the pavement in Mumbai while thousands of curious locals watch on isn’t an attractive option!). After a while, not getting your heart rate up can leave you feeling lethargic and downright miserable.

A few weeks ago, I found myself in that exact physical and mental space; unfit and unmotivated. So, I recruited my hyper-energetic husband and favourite workout apps to help me get my mojo back. Here’s how I maintain my basic fitness and inject a whole lot of positive energy into my travel life. I hope these tips help you feel happy and healthy, too!

#1. Find a secluded rooftop

Whenever I move into a new hotel, I ask the staff if I can use their open-air rooftop for my workouts. At sunrise and sunset, there’s no place I’d rather be. Hotel rooftops tend to have spectacular views of a city, especially if they’re located in the heart of the action. This means you can enjoy a private workout with an inspiring outlook and take awesome pics when you’re done.

#2. Get a skipping rope

Skipping is one of the best forms of exercise for travellers. Not only is it one of the most efficient cardio sports, burning a lot of calories in a short amount of time, it also improves your balance and tones your legs, arms and core. Plus, the equipment needed is uber portable – perfect for those of us with a little wanderlust. My hubby made me a skipping rope out of some spare chord we had in our Land Rover. If you’re not into DIY, you can buy one off eBAY for around $5.

#3. Download the right Apps

Two FREE apps have been my lifeline to health and well-being while travelling. The first is the internationally acclaimed 7-Minute Workout app. Not a day goes by when I can’t spend seven minutes on my own health. As long as I have a wall and step nearby, I have no excuses not to do a 7-Minute Workout. If I can’t access a rooftop, the exercises can be performed in my hotel room (using the bed for step ups and tricep dips).

I also love this app because it talks me through the whole circuit like a PT and forces me to keep up an energetic pace with its countdowns. When I started using this app, my posture and technique were pretty off. But, after watching the demo videos, I was able to go about things the right way and get the most out of my workouts.

My second favourite fitness app is Simply Yoga. I usually opt for the 20-minute workout but there are lots of options depending on how much time you can spare. Like the 7-Minute Workout, this app teaches you how to correct your posture and technique with video tutorials. It also helps you time your poses so your body reaps the maximum benefits from your yoga session.

#4. Workout!

For me, 100-200 jumps with a skipping rope, one round of the 7-Minute Workout plus and a 20-minute yoga session are enough to keep me feeling happy and healthy. I can handle 30 minutes of exercise a day. If you’re a fit freak of nature like my husband, tackle 2-3 sets of the 7-Minute Workout (see video below) along with the skipping and yoga. This will take around 45 minutes and leave you feeling truly spent.