THE MANY FACES OF MUMBAI

Mumbai (a.k.a. Bombay) is a city of wild and wonderful extremes. Sustaining over 20 million residents, India’s most populous city is home to dreamers, hard-labourers, actors, gangsters, artists, servants, fisher folk, millionaires and everything in between. It’s the glittering epicentre of Bollywood, the world’s most prolific film industry, and it proudly possesses some of the world’s most expensive real estate. Yet, Mumbai is also renowned for its mammoth slums and ultra-gritty markets. So it seems, this eclectic city captures all of the beauty and ugliness of the human condition. But, that’s exactly what makes it so captivating. Here are some of the things I love most about Mumbai – the good, the great and the ugly.

BOLLYWOOD

Churning out over 900 films a year, Bollywood is the global goliath of the movie world. When visiting Mumbai, the heart of India’s film industry, it’s sacrilegious not to see a Bollywood flick. I convinced Ben to see ABCD2, which was like Step Up on steroids. Despite having zero understanding of Hindi, I figured dance was an international language we’d be able to make sense of. Indeed, I was instantly entranced by Bollywood’s winning escapist formula, as all-singing, all-dancing lovers fought to conquer the forces keeping them apart.

During our night at the movies, Ben and I discovered Indian cinemas played the national anthem before each screening – how patriotic! We also heard Bollywood studios often scouted Western extras to star in their films and add a whiff of international flair. Unfortunately, we missed out on our ten minutes of fame. Bollywood stars, on the other hand, seemed to have God-like status throughout Mumbai and all of India.

FASHION

Just like in Hollywood, where an intense celebrity culture is coupled with fashion fanatics, Mumbai is both the movie star and fashion capital of India. From the mountains of sparkly accessories at the Bandra street markets to the couture boutiques which line the streets of Juhu, it’s a bit overwhelming. But, once you get the hang of haggling and sorting the chintz from the special stuff, shopping becomes an entertaining tourist experience. I chose to escape the crowds and play dress ups at Bandhej in the Grand Hyatt Plaza. While in India, I couldn’t miss out on the chance to wear some traditional clothing, which I’d never be able to get on without the help of a local! Before long, I was happily drowning in a rainbow of colour. Indian women sure know how to stand out. No matter which region or caste they’re from, they all seem to put serious effort into their style, from the ornate jewellery and striking make-up they wear, to the perfectly layered clothing and coordinated shoes adorning their bodies. Indian women are the ultimate “glamourzons” – especially in Mumbai.

MARKETS

Before reaching Mumbai, I had visions of people being packed into the place like sardines. Ben and I feared it would be a nightmare to navigate, especially considering we were driving our own car. While India’s biggest city certainly has an element of overcrowded madness, there’s a fast-paced rhythm to the place which seems to keep things moving like a perfectly choreographed dance. The locals know the steps and it doesn’t take long for tourists to get the swing of things.

Nowhere is Mumbai’s organised chaos more apparent than at the markets. While Chow Bazaar (a.k.a. the Thieves Market) is a popular shopping haunt, especially amongst those seeking antiques and furniture, my top pick is the Crawford Market. It’s the ultimate tourist theatre, with locals and vendors haggling their way towards high-action melodrama while stray animals form sneaky side plots. It’s fascinating viewing, but you should also become part of the production!

If peace and quiet are what you seek, you’ll need to wander past the pet arena through to the meat market. Be warned – it’s strictly for the brave (hence the less hectic vibe). The lack of hygiene is wildly shocking and grabs you by the guts – I’d never seen anything like it before. But, while the viewing is tough, the workers are super friendly. Be sure to strike up a conversation with them, as their life stories are fascinating. Their kids play cricket around the corner. It’s worth wading through the mountains of rotting garbage to join them for a match – Mumbai-style.

SLUMS

Shantytowns and slums are very much a part of Mumbai city life, with over 60% of the population calling them home. To really get under the skin of India’s biggest city, it’s important to witness this part of the local culture. Ben and I ventured to Dharavi, Asia’s biggest and Mumbia’s most renowned slum. Thanks to Hollywood’s interpretation of street life in Slumdog Millionaire, Dharavi turned out to be a lot friendlier and grittier than I expected. While I’m sure there are some dodgy dealings in this part of town, I felt completely safe exploring the dusty alleyways and busy thoroughfares. The locals turned into shy gigglepots whenever we asked to take their photos – they were delightful and never asked for money in return. Their houses were cleverly built from a resourceful mix of materials, including corrugated iron, garbage and concrete. Surprisingly, most were kitted out with kitchens and electricity.

On the flip side, where Hollywood tends to make even the foulest conditions look picturesque, Dharavi was pretty darn dingy. It was like a city, within a city – a far cry from the lavish lanes of Mumbai’s affluent peninsular situated merely a hop, skip and jump away. The sewer-lined streets were shrouded in gut-wrenching aromas, from rotting garbage to human excrement. The waterways were a bubbling grey-green colour I’d never seen before. It was a complete assault to the senses. Yet, many families (including young adults with white collar jobs), had happily lived here for generations. While Dharavi seems shambled at first glance, there’s obviously a strong sense of community and habitual way of life which offers a compelling living environment.

PLUSH PROPERTIES

In a country where 30% of people live below the poverty line, Mumbai is a beacon of unabashed opulence. Amongst the shantytowns and slums are pockets of elegance filled with fantastical architecture. The affluent southern tip of Mumbai’s peninsular is home to the world’s most expensive private property – Antilia. Valued at $1 billion USD, it’s maintained by a staff of 600 and enjoyed by not a single soul. Owned by India’s wealthiest man, business magnate Mukesh Ambani, it’s rumoured his wife didn’t agree with the property’s feng shui and refused to reside within its stately walls. Built on a block which was formerly occupied by an orphanage, many of the locals see Antilia as a big middle finger. Whether or not the gossip is true or justified, this state-of-the-art skyscaper is still worth a peak.

The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is another example of Mumbai’s lavish side, presenting a fairytale blend of Islamic and Renaissance architectural styles. This sumptuous hotel is a popular respite destination amongst the international elite. If you can’t afford to live like royalty for a night or experience one of the Taj’s fine-dining restaurants, it’s still worth taking a look inside and pretending like you own the place. Alternatively, you can enjoy a gentle stroll (or horse-drawn carriage ride) around its perfect perimeter. The public square, which sits next to the hotel and hugs the Mumbai Harbour, has become a favourite gathering spot amongst locals and tourists alike. It’s also home to the Gateway of India, a bold basalt arch of colonial triumph, which further enhances the grandeur of this palatial precinct.

WORLD-CLASS DINING

Mumbai offers a gastronomical adventure like nowhere else in India. Due to the well-moneyed and cosmopolitan crowds which flock to this high-energy city, the cuisine on offer is truly mind-blowing. My two favourite food experiences were at Social Offline and the Grand Hyatt Hotel. The latter took my stomach on a glorious round-the-world trip from Italy, China, Japan and Thailand all the way back to India. It’s worth sleeping over for a few nights, just so you can sample your way through the Grand Hyatt’s many restaurants and some of the best food Mumbai has to offer. From the thin-crust pizzas which dissipate in your mouth to the impossibly tender peking duck which delights your soul, it’s little wonder this hotel attracts movers and shakers from Mumbai and beyond.

Ben and I stumbled across Social Offline while we were exploring the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Too cheap to splurge on a five-star lunch, we looked to one of the surrounding restaurants for a feed. What we discovered at the highly affordable Social Offline knocked our socks off. The fusion of British and Indian recipes delivered an unexpected thrill to our tastebuds, from the lightly spiced and perfectly battered fish ‘n’ chips Ben devoured to the melt-in-the-mouth pastry which cuddled my curried vegetable pie. If only we’d had room to try the Chocolate Blood Bath with brownie, truffle and fudge. So it seemed, when world-class international and Indian chefs came together, the menus were magic.

CONCLUSION

If you thought Mumbai was merely a grimy, over-crowded city, think again. Its many facets will surprise and delight you, whisking you between worlds of divine grandeur and hypnotically raw street life. Mumbai, with all of it’s complex and contrasting layers, offers a well-rounded glimpse into Indian culture, aspirations, challenges and ideals. It’s unquestionably a must-visit if you plan to explore India.

REVIEW: THE GRAND HYATT, GOA (BAMBOLIM)

How would you describe it? Grandiose, ambitious, exquisite, welcoming, and family-friendly.

Who’d love it? Surprisingly, families! The Grand Hyatt is well equipped to cater for little ones. This state-of-the-art hotel would also make a great venue for weddings and business conferences.

How were the rooms?

Let’s just start by saying it was bigger than our entire townhouse back home in Oz. From the moment we entered the atrium, we couldn’t contain our dumfounded delight. We were like school children giggling at an inside joke – the lavishness of our room was brilliantly absurd. How did we get so lucky?! The entrance, decorated with fresh flowers, opened up to a vast, open-plan living room and dining area. A coffee machine, generous bowl of ripe fruit and jars of naughty treats were ready to welcome us. Before Ben and I tucked in, we needed to explore the all-important bedroom.

It was the stuff of dreams. The king-sized bed was so deliciously soft it felt as though I was being hugged to sleep. Behind the ultra-comfy bedroom was a bathroom fit for a queen. It contained so many specialised areas, we kept getting lost! And, just to add a little extra ostentatiousness, there was a remote controlled wall offering a choice between privacy and exhibitionism. As I started to open the bedroom curtains, I turned to Ben and said, “How can this possibly get any better?”. My question was answered before it ended. So it seemed, our room was bordered by a runway-length balcony with a state-of-the-art Jacuzzi and ocean views. It was time to jump up and down with joy.

How was the service?

I love staying at a hotel when I can tell the entire staff community shares a genuine and united passion for its mission and values. At the Grand Hyatt, it’s obvious everyone from the GM to the gardener is driven by the desire to create a flawless yet homely space for guests. There was a refreshing sincerity to their smiles and support.

I also valued the personalised service delivered at the Grand Hyatt. The staff were practically psychic and eager to go the extra mile. After a long day of filming, photographing and touring the hotel grounds, Ben and I came back to our room to discover it’d been showered in rose petals. A little romance and relaxation were exactly what we needed. It’s easy to get caught up in the work side of things when you’re a travel writer and forget to stop and enjoy the moment. Not at the Grand Hyatt! 

How was the food? 

The Grand Hyatt is a place where one can indulge in dessert during breakfast, lunch and dinner. The lavish breakfast spread was temptation of the ultimate kind, offering everything from freshly made waffles with several flavours of ice-cream to the finest pastries and masterfully decorated cakes. Of course, the usual local and international suspects were on offer, too, plus a deli section that was to die for (cream cheese with smoked salmon on a fresh bagel anyone?). Lunch is next level, and will leave you feeling like Marie Antoinette. Dinner presents a world of options but Ben and I stuck with the hotel’s Indian restaurant, Chulha. We were treated to a special cooking class with the chefs before we tucked into the tastiest Indian meal either of us had ever cooked. At the Grand Hyatt, every morsel is obviously made with love, expertise, playfulness and careful consideration.

What were the highlights?

From the moment we drove our Landy through the stately entrance gates, Ben and I were in awe of the Grand Hyatt’s unique aesthetic. The architecture was a beautiful mix of Hindu, Portuguese and contemporary influences. Every structure was paradoxically grand and down-to-earth. The use of natural fibres, tones, artworks and décor was very clever, making us feel both pampered and right at home.

The spa complex was pretty memorable, too. As we wandered past the ultramodern massage rooms, gymnasium, indoor pool, relaxation room, salons, steam rooms and private female/male spas – all blindingly white – we felt like we were in a sci-fi flick. Ben and I were “the lucky ones” who got to live on the utopia-themed spaceship. It was blissfully eerie.

What’s different about the place? 

At first glance, the Grand Hyatt stood out due to its sheer size. Spread across 28 acres of prime beachfront land, the hotel was often explored by buggy rather than by foot. The common areas were so extensive, there were staff dedicated to offering directions (we took advantage of this on many occasions!). The gardens, despite their vastness, were perfectly manicured. There was also a beautifully weathered 16^th Century chapel on the grounds, which begged to be photographed.

Another interesting point-of-difference was the Grand Hyatt’s menu of guest activities, which seemed to be season specific. During the monsoon, they were designed to keep holiday-goers entertained indoors. Everything from Indian cooking classes and fondue evenings to beer ‘n’ hop tastings and detox days were on offer. I could’ve happily lived at the Grand Hyatt for many months! During my stay, I well-and-truly became a Grand Hyatt girl – it’s an incredible brand which consistently delivers my favourite hotel experiences around the world.

How would you rate the overall experience? 9.7 out of 10 grand entrances.

Resort Details:
Goa University, Bambolim, Goa 403206
Ph: 0832 301 1234
www.goa.grand.hyatt.com/en/hotel/home.html

BEWITCHED BY HAMPI

Before arriving in India, Hampi had been on my bucket list for a while…but, I couldn’t tell you why. For some unknown reason, it was one of the few places I could name in India. Perhaps I’d heard wonderful whispers about Hampi without really taking them in. While I knew I wanted to visit this mysterious place, I didn’t have a clue what made it special. So, as Ben and I approached this tourist Mecca, I tucked into some research. Here are a few insights which caught my attention:

• Hampi, which means “champion”, is located within the infamous ruins of Vijayanagara, the former capital of the Vijayanagara Empire.
• The ruins are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• Hampi formed one of the core areas of the Vijayanagara Empire from 1343 to 1565. It was chosen because of its strategic location, bounded by the torrential Tungabhadra River on one side and surrounded by defensible hills on its other three sides.
• Hampi continues to be a significant historical, architectural and religious site. It’s home to many notable Hindu temples, some of which are still active places of worship.
• The extant monuments of Vijayanagara (or Hampi) can be divided into Religious, Civil and Military buildings.
• While most of the monuments in Hampi are from the Vijayanagara period, a small proportion have been assigned to pre-Vijayanagara times. The first historical settlements in Hampi date back to 1CE!

While these insights were certainly fascinating, it wasn’t until Ben and I arrived in Hampi that we understood why it was a major pit stop on the traveller circuit. We were spellbound from the moment we laid eyes on the mars-like landscape. It was so different to anything we’d seen before – a sea of giant boulders perched precariously over miles of undulated terrain, their rusty hues offset by zesty green palm groves, banana plantations and paddy fields. A perfect azure sky, peppered with fluffy white Simpson’s clouds, enhanced the epic atmosphere. The forlorn ruins seemed scattered across Hampi’s dramatic scenery, their former beauty still glimmering through the harsh destruction of time.

Before long, Ben and I had lost ourselves to the ancient relics. With only a half day available to explore Hampi, we stuck to the area’s main attractions, including the Vittala Temple and its iconic stone chariot, market corridors and musical pillars. Wandering through the mammoth temple entrance, we were transported to a bygone era. It’s ornate walls oozed secrets from the past – the architecture was mesmerising.

As Ben and I wrapped up our time in Hampi and started our journey to Goa, we watched the legendary landscape fly past our car windows in distracted silence. It was amazing to see how millions of years of volcanic activity and erosion could result in a beautifully bewitching backdrop. If only we’d had time to linger a little longer.

5 WAYS TO CHILL OUT IN GOA DURING THE MONSOON

When you imagine a holiday in Goa, sun-kissed beaches, wild parties, and hordes of hippies probably come to mind. What if I was to tell you this tourist hot spot becomes particularly blissful throughout the Monsoon Season?

Few international tourists realise Goa is a playground 365 days of the year. The idea of visiting during its wettest months might seem strange; but, for travellers who dream of total relaxation, a beautiful backdrop and mellow holiday vibe, it’s the perfect time to chill out in this aspirational destination. Here are some of my favourite ways to unwind and soak up the magic of Goa during the Monsoon.

#1 Explore the Tropical Spice Plantation

A trip to India isn’t complete without a visit to a spice plantation. When Goa takes on a slower pace, it’s the perfect time to head towards the lush hills and discover spices in their most natural state. Ben and I visited the Tropical Spice Plantation in Keri (Ponda). Upon arrival, we were welcomed with traditional offerings of flower garlands, kumkum (red, round marks impressed on our foreheads) and herbal teas. Our guided tour immersed us in nature, revitalised our senses and filled our brains with new knowledge about spices. During the gentle stroll, we were able to mingle with buffalos, elephants, dogs, cats, monkeys, ducks and rare species of birds. They were all rather jealous of our buffet lunch, which included a mountain of traditional and nutritious foods served in banana leaves. After our walking tour and spice-infused feast, the only thing left to do was visit the gift shop!

#2 Get Your Chef’s Hat On at a Goan Cooking Class

For me, the act of preparing delicious food is wonderfully therapeutic. Once I’d witnessed spices in their purest form, I was eager to learn how to cook with them! Goa is home to many divine dishes, which are unique to the area. Goan Fish Curry is just the beginning, but it’s hard to go past. Ben and I learnt how to make this signature recipe, along with Tandoori Chicken, at the Grand Hyatt. The hotel’s Indian restaurant, Chulha, offers abridged cooking classes for guests, and there are many other courses on offer throughout Goa. No matter which operator you choose, you’re guaranteed to feel inspired by the ingenious use of spices in Indian cuisine. Ben and I realised we had many of the vital ingredients in our kitchen back home. The only problem was we had no idea how to turn them into something special. Well, now we do! And, we can’t wait to cook up an Indian feast once we get back to Australia.

#3 Sign Up for a Detox & Yoga Retreat

In this day and age, most of us are bombarded with toxins on a regular basis, from the air pollution we breathe to the processed foods we eat. Goa is home to a number of eco-conscious resorts, which offer detox retreats and aim to give your body a break and health boost. I opted for a 5-day Juice Cleanse and Yoga Program with The Beach House and will never forget the experience. My days were filled with remedial massages, nutrient-rich beverages, educational health talks, colonics, walks on the beach, one-on-one yoga classes, meditation and “me time”. It was bliss. And, I came out the other side having reduced my bio-age by 3 years, improved my ph level from 6 (acidic) to 8 (alkaline) and dropped 2kg. I’m keen to come back and do it all again next year!

#4 Let Your Hair Down on a Floating Casino

For a more upbeat way to unwind, enjoy one of Goa’s signature holiday experiences – the floating casinos. Ben and I ventured out to the Deltin Royale, India’s most grandiose party boat for gamblers. We kicked our night off with an epic feast on the middle floor, where buffet treats, alcoholic beverages, cabaret dancers and party beats set the indulgent tone for the evening. It wasn’t long before the gaming zones captured our curiosity. While we’re not big gamblers, it was fascinating watching the different dynamics at play. The air of exhilaration was infectious, and we were absorbed in the action for hours. By the time we caught a tender back to the peaceful mainland and crawled into bed, we were completely spent.

#5 Live in the Lap of Luxury 

Few places are more relaxing than luxury resorts and hotels – they’re slices of holiday heaven where your every whim gets catered for. Goa’s stateliest establishment, the Grand Hyatt, is pure comfort and escapism of the finest kind. Ben and I had the pleasure of staying in one of the ocean-view suites, which formed a royal base for our many decedent escapades. The hotel runs daily activities to keep guests entertained during the Monsoon, from fondue evenings and Indian-inspired cocktail classes to yoga sessions and detox days. The spa complex was more like a state-of-the-art sanctuary, offering male and female spas, steam rooms, a gymnasium, relaxation room, indoor pools, beauty salon and enticing massage menu. Meal times were pamper sessions in their own right. Ben and I always savour opportunities to enjoy good food, made with love, expertise and careful consideration. At the Grand Hyatt, every experience seemed to involve those three ingredients. We felt truly taken care of – like the weight of stress and chaos had been taken off our shoulders.

Whatever your chill out style, Goa offers something to help you unwind and enjoy the enchanting charm of the Monsoon Season. From lavish resorts and fun-filled nights to health retreats, educational activities and time with nature, there’s a world of locally inspired adventure waiting to be enjoyed. While Goa is a prized holiday destination throughout winter, it’s particularly breathtaking during the Monsoon when it turns into a lush and peaceful playground. So, make sure you experience Goa’s unique diversity and sample this world-renowned travel destination during the different seasons – not just the sunny ones.

KHAJURAHO’S (HIGHLY) EROTIC TEMPLES

It takes a lot to make me blush; but, Khajuraho’s erotically embellished temples certainly raised my eyebrows. Beyond the infamous kama sutra carvings, the sheer skill and craftsmanship on display were awesomely astonishing. I’d go as far as saying this World Heritage site houses the most beautiful temple art in the world. The diversity and level of detail would certainly give Angkor Wat a run for its money. Yet, it’s relatively “off the beaten track” and unknown outside of India.

Indeed, during the long drive from Varanasi to Goa, Ben and I decided to take a temple detour merely on a whim. Man, were we glad we did! At first glance, Khajuraho seemed like a small dusty town in the middle of nowhere. But, as soon as we stepped into the ancient grounds, we were surprised and delighted. What lay before us were the most immaculately manicured lawns we’d ever seen, with proudly preserved temples peppered around the place. It was like a mystical oasis.

Before long, a quirky elder was petitioning to be our guide. We’d heard local knowledge was worth its weight on gold, so we settled on a price and started the grand tour. Our trusty sidekick, Anante Khare, turned out to be incredibly well-versed in Indo-Aryan architecture. We soon discovered he’d been telling the temple’s tales since 1972! It was obvious he’d spent a lot of time around tourists – he took digital photos like a young pro. But, back to his stories…

Legend has it that Khajuraho was founded by Chandravarman, the son of the moon god Chandra, who descended on a beautiful maiden as she bathed in a stream. There were 85 temples in the compound originally, while only 25 remain today, revealing the burst of creative genius which took place from AD 950 to 1050. Khajuraho’s isolation helped preserve the temples from the desecration Muslim invaders inflicted on temples everywhere else; but, perhaps for the same reason, the area was slowly abandoned and many temples eventually fell into ruin.

Having said that, the ones that remain are spectacular. Around the outside of the temples are bands of exceedingly artistic stonework showing a storyboard of life from a millennium ago, including: deities, warriors, dancers, musicians, farmers, animals and mythological creatures. Throughout the compound, two elements appear repeatedly: women and sex.

The sensuous female figures have been carved with a half twist, making them swirl and dance playfully out from the flat stone. According to our guide, the “pure” women could be distinguished by their hands, which were placed tantalisingly over their breasts to reveal their unmet urges. The women who’d already enjoyed sexual pleasure were portrayed with a “dishevelled undercarriage” and open sari, as though they were still caught up in the afterglow and had forgotten themselves. Our guide could also decipher the age of the women by comparing their boobs to fruit. “Young girl have the breast like lemon, young woman have the breast like ripe mango.” They looked more like bolt-on melons to me!

Next we moved on to the liberally embellished kama sutra carvings, which have put Khajuraho on the map. Beyond the obvious religious and community purposes the temples served, they also provided an educational function – sex education to be more precise. Our straight-faced guide shared some lessons with us, as if he was describing how to cook samosa. Lesson #1: If you want to have sex with someone who’s not your wife without getting her pregnant, opt for oral sex or “butt fun”. Lesson #2: if your husband has a skin disease, prescribe him a high dose of sulphur in the form of sexual relations with a horse. I can’t recall being taught these things in sex-ed!

While the erotic carvings of Khajuraho are certainly eye-opening, the graphic content shouldn’t detract from the meticulous and masterful stonework. It’s also important to approach the temples with an open mind, as they are open to interpretation. As one of my Insta followers put it, “They are a delight for the eclectic traveller seeking truth about love as a form of worship”. That comment made me see things a whole lot differently.

TEMPLE TIPS

• Stay at the Radisson Hotel and scour Agoda for cheap deals. It’s a true sanctuary, located just around the corner from the temples and away from the chaotic tout ‘n’ tourist zone.
• Eat at the Mediterraneo Restaurant. It’s officially one of my favourite places to feast in India. Mouth-watering Italian meals in the middle of India, who’d of thought? The thin-crust pizzas are to die for and they’re cooked in a wood-fired oven. The whole menu is made with love and attention to detail. It’s a must-try.
• If you want to see Khajuraho in its moment of glory, visit during the week-long Festival of Dances (Feb/March), when the Western Group of temples becomes a stage of fun-filled action.
• Opt for a tour guide. For a decent price, they offer a library of information which can’t be beaten. Plus, it’s entertaining listening to their stories about the kama sutra carvings. You’ll find them milling around the main entrance gate.
• Head to the temples for mid-afternoon so you can capture them with a golden glow. Finish your tour by taking epic sunset pics.

6 MIND-BLOWING EXPERIENCES IN MYANMAR

I have no doubt that if you make the journey Myanmar, the country and its people will capture your heart. A place where Betel Nut smiles and enthusiastic waves are always on tap, the locals will literally take you by the hand and bring you into their world. They are truly beautiful both inside and out.

Not generally at the top of holiday-goers’ to-do lists, Myanmar is relatively untouched by tourism and seems to be one of the world’s best-kept secrets. Foreigners are a rare sight, which means they are treated like much-loved celebrities. It’s hard not to feel welcome.

We explored Myanmar as part of a guided tour, a requirement for overland adventurers. Having found a group of similarly placed travellers via Horizons Unlimited, we were able to bring the total cost down and enjoy the journey with kindred spirits.

We chose to team up with Myanmar Senses for our tour and highly recommend it as a company. The guides took care of our every need, including the tedious aspects of overland travel (e.g. border post transitions, paying toll fees, figuring out where to eat, arranging hotel bookings, topping us up with bottled water and face wipes, and finding toilets etc.). In the context of Myanmar, it was luxury.

Throughout the ten-day journey, I encountered some of my favourite travel experiences to date. They will forever remain tattooed to my brain and I hope my tales about them lure you to the captivating land of Myanmar. 

#1 THINGYAN WATER FESTIVAL (YANGON)

There is simply no better time to visit Mynmar than during the Thingyan Water Festival. The marathon water fight welcomes in the New Year over four days in April, showcasing the local spirit and vibrant community in all of their glory.

While celebrations go wet ‘n’ wild throughout the country (even in the middle of nowhere), the heartbeat of the action is Yangon, Myanmar’s most populated city. The scene is like a kids’ ultimate battleground, a water wonderland with infinite weapons of mass drenching, including: water pistols, buckets, hoses, drums, water bottles and super strength water jets. Staying dry isn’t an option.

The fun is unavoidably infectious. Kids, the elderly, breastfeeding mum’s, families on scooters, street food vendors, rebellious monks, police officers, tourists…everyone is quick to let their hair down and join in the fun.

The battle course, an inescapable ring around the city centre, is lined with thousands of hoses mounted on concert stages. The area is positively pumping with dance, techno and popular beats. The base reverberates through every fibre of your body, igniting your adrenalin and enhancing the thrill of the battle.

Utes, packed to the brim with jumping passengers, bounce their way through the course like something out of an R&B video clip. Other party-goers (mainly teenage boys with pop-punk fashion, black make-up and wild hair cuts) weave their way through the traffic, stopping to dance and get drenched along the way.

It’s one of the funniest and most uplifting things I’ve seen in my life. People letting go of their inhibitions, strangers hugging each other and roaring the words, “Happy New Year!”, and an entire community sharing in a tremendously joyous experience. Thingyan just goes to show, people can simply get high on fun – no drugs or alcohol required.

#2 SHWEDAGON PAGODA (YANGON)

The first time you gaze upon this majestic creation, you’ll understand why she’s the Mother of all pagodas. Epic in every way imaginable, Shwedagon is the biggest, blingiest, most beloved Buddhist stupa in Myanmar. Constructed more than 2,500 years ago, she is also the oldest in the world.

So the story goes, people all over the country, as well as monarchs throughout Myanmar’s history, have donated gold to the pagoda to maintain it. The practice continues to this day after being started in the 15th century by the Queen Binnya Thau, who literally gave her weight in gold. Today, this ultra-opulent structure has become so blindingly beautiful, you practically need to wear sunnies just to look at it!

Considering her history and majesty, it’s little wonder Shwedagon Pagoda has become a focus of religious as well as community activities for the people of Myanmar. As you explore the temple compound, which extends well beyond the star attraction, local life takes stage before you. From meditating monks and bustling devotees to flower vendors and family feasts, it’s surprisingly lively for a spiritual sanctuary. So, sit back, soak up a bit of Myanmar culture and study a true wonder of the religious world.

#3 THE ANCIENT KINGDOM (BAGAN)

A trip to the Bagan plains is an enchanting journey into the past. This kingdom experienced its golden era between the 11^th and 13^th centuries, when over 10,000 ornate Buddhist temples, pagodas and monasteries were built.

Today, many of these structures still exist albeit in a weathered, battle-worn state. This gives the area an eerie gravesite-like vibe. It’s like a beautiful forgotten land, with thousands of stories locked mysteriously inside its crumbling walls. Having said that, the temples certainly haven’t been forgotten…

The Bagan Archaeological Zone is one of Myanmar’s major tourist draw cards. As such, it’s perfectly set up to accommodate visitors, offering an extensive menu of hotels, resorts and restaurants. Akin to Angkor Wat in Cambodia, the star attractions are swarming with holiday-goers around sunset, all looking to capture the perfect money shot.

Smart dessert dogs are hot on the tourist trail. Weaving in between bushes, buses and boulder-structures, they hunt out any crumb of food they can possibly find. It only makes the experience seem more wild and true to life.

If you want to avoid the hustle and bustle, explore the temples at sunrise. The ancient city is possibly more picturesque at the crack of dawn, especially when it’s peak season and a dozen or so air-balloons take to the skies.

I have no doubt Bagon will climb the “so hot right now” travel destination list along with Myanmar. So, get in quick before this mystical place loses some of its raw charm.

#4 U BEIN BRIDGE (MANDALAY)

If it wasn’t peppered with litter, this site would be one of the most picturesque in Myanmar. Even with it blemishes, U Bein Bridge is pretty impressive. Built in 1850 and stretching a mighty 1.2km, it’s the oldest and longest teakwood bridge in the world. For both of these reasons, it’s a slightly knee-trembling experience trying to cross it. With hundreds of other people stomping on its planks at any given time, it feels like this rustic relic could collapse at any moment…and it’s a long sprint to terra firma!

Having said that, there are a number of utterly magical moments to be enjoyed at this local hot-spot-come-tourist-hub. A sunset boat ride around Taungthaman Lake is one of them. Weave in between angelic birds like a scene out of The Notebook as the silhouette of U Bein Bridge ripples on the water surface.

For another peaceful moment, wander away from the bridge (past the restaurants) until you reach the goose farm. If you time things just right, you’ll get to watch the owners herd hundreds of the feathered flappers back into their enclosure like pros. The lake and sunset in the background make for glorious photographs and time-lapse videos.

I recommend arriving at U Bein Bridge at least an hour before sunset if you want to relax, enjoy the experiences on offer and capture every picturesque moment. The site is heaving with people at this time of day, so everything takes longer than expected.

Plus, there’s so much to do! You can explore the markets (I had to get myself a watermelon seed bag), make the slow journey across the bridge, sip on coconuts by the water’s edge, play with farm animals and take a gazillion photos. If you’re up for a calmer experience, make the journey to U Bein Bridge for sunrise.

#5 MAHAMUNI BUDDHA TEMPLE (MANDALAY)

For a taste of Myanmar madness (the good kind), head to the Mahamuni Buddha Temple. This highly venerated pilgrimage site draws thousands of visitors on a daily basis. Ancient tradition refers to only five likenesses of the Buddha made during his lifetime: two in India, two in paradise, and the fifth is the Mahamuni Buddha image in Mandalay. It’s little wonder this sacred site has become such a nucleus of activity for the people of Myanmar.

From the moment you attempt to spot a car park amongst the sea of scooters, you know things are about to get seriously frantic. As you push your way through the markets, which masterfully filter people through to the temple, your senses get swept away by a tantalising cocktail of vivid colours, hunger-inducing smells and curious events.

Once you finally make it into the main compound, the crowd becomes “next-level” hectic. Devotees, monks and visitors clog every artery leading to its heart, the Muhamundi Buddha statue (which can only be approached by men).

While this might sound like most people’s idea of hell, it’s actually quite a fun experience. Being thrust into a festival of Myanmar culture is truly thrilling. The locals, especially the women, make an incredible effort to wear their finest and brightest traditional clothing. The result is a moving palette of rich colours, which would put an Indian wedding to shame.

As a visitor, I think the best way to enjoy this sacred site is take a step back and watch the unique rituals and events unfold. Oh! And don’t forget to buy one of the homemade, technicolour ice-creams. They’re heaven in the heat.

#6 GOLDEN ROCK (MT KYAIKTIYO) 

This has to be one of the most entertaining things a traveller can do in Myanmar. But, it’s not the act of pasting gold leaf on a gravity-defying rock which makes it so engaging. It’s the bus ride up Mt Kyaiktiyo which really gets your giggles going.

The buses in regional Myanmar aren’t like the ones we complain about in the Western World. They are giant, rickety, open-air trucks with bench seats in the back. People are packed into them like cattl; strangers sit shoulder to shoulder and knee to bum under a blazing sun. The unlucky buggers in the middle have nowhere to look but up. And that’s not the half of it.

The bus trip up Mt Kyaiktiyo is a knuckle-biting, heart-stopping, boob-bouncing thrill ride like no other. The course involves a relentless series of hairpin turns, steep inclines, killer drop-offs and breath-taking views. It’s so foreign and frightening, all you can do is laugh.

Once the ride comes to an end, your reward is laid out before you: a busting mountain village amongst the cloudy heavens. A trail of activity leads you to the pièce de résistance. Witness hefty tourists being carried on the backs of able bodied men like royalty, roving ice-pop and samosa vendors, exotic street stalls (fried snake anyone?), random explosions of cash being thrown in the air for good luck, the cutest babies in the world and thousands of devotees focused on their pilgrimage.

And then there’s the Golden Rock. Indeed, it’s a spectacular site to be seen, especially in light of the panoramic views in the background. According to legend, the mammoth feature is precariously perched on a strand of the Buddha’s hair, making it the third most important pilgrimage site after the Shwedagon Pagoda and Mahamuni Buddha Temple. But, as a non-Buddhist tourist, I have to say Golden Rock delivered the most memorable travel experience.

There you have it, six mind-blowing experiences just waiting to ignite your eternal love for Myanmar. Put this magnificent country on your radar, add these authentic adventures to your bucket list, get amongst the action,  share your stories and enjoy the memories. They’ll be one of a kind.