REVIEW: V RESORTS (KULLU)

How would you describe it? Intimate, ornate, easy-going, charming, and homely.

Who’d love it? V Resorts (Kullu) is a perfect base for those wanting to explore the Himachal Pradesh area at large, from the popular town of Manali to the lesser-known thermal springs. Ben and I relied on this peaceful abode as a comforting start and end point during our road trip along the Manali-to-Leh Highway. It placed us far enough away from the main tourist zones to feel relaxed, but close enough to explore them at our leisure. Families, couples, seniors, and singles seeking a little quiet time would feel at home at V Resorts (Kullu).

How were the rooms? The rooms were something special – like luxury log cabins with dreamy mountain views, high ceilings, towering glass windows and sun-kissed balconies. The bed was so soft, I sunk into it like a kid diving into a warm pudding. While there wasn’t any air-con, the fans kept us comfortably cool. Plus, the climate in this part of the world is relatively temperate for most months of the year. Our room didn’t have a TV, but there was a communal one in the cosy common area. This was a good thing, as it encouraged Ben and me to leave our room and be social rather than hotel hermits.

How was the service? The small team of staff were just wonderful – professional, understated and genuinely caring. They seemed inconspicuous, yet always ready to help with our requests. We felt like we had the place to ourselves, but we also felt completely taken care of. The service was personalised to suit our needs and preferences, from meals to parking. Whilst travelling to and from the hotel, the staff phoned us to ensure we were safe and on the right track. They were so lovely, we wish we had time to get to know them better and do something nice for them in return.

How was the food? It was tastier and more comforting than a home-cooked Indian meal. Dinner was always hearty, flavour-packed and made with love. The curries were so delicious we couldn’t let the leftovers go to waste. The staff kindly packed them into lunch boxes for us – curries taste better the next day anyway! Breakfasts were perfect for a Western palate (I’m sure Indian options can be prepared, too). The chef was more than happy to tailor menu items to suit our dietary requirements and preferences. We couldn’t have asked for more.

What was the vibe like? V Resorts (Kullu) feels like a home away from home. The ornately decorated common area is stocked with tea facilities, board games, a TV and dining space, giving it a welcoming, social vibe. The staff enhance this sense of intimacy with their inquisitiveness, kindness and friendly chats.

What were the highlights? There are three things, which have stayed with me since staying at V Resorts (Kullu). Beyond the impeccable service and mouth-watering meals, the unique interior design really captured my curiosity and imagination. No country can mash crazy prints and patterns as masterfully as India. At V Resorts (Kullu), this creative skill is on full display. I loved the electric blue furniture and royal rugs – they packed a punch against the timber framework. This accommodation offered all of the quirky charm we wanted in a boutique hotel…and then some.

What’s different about the place? V Resorts (Kullu) is brand spanking new, so everything felt fresh and ready to impress. Despite being a spring chicken, the hotel was relaxing and the service was seamless. It felt as though the place had been hitting its stride for months.

How would you rate the overall experience? 8 out of 10 packed lunches

Contact Details:
Email: bookings@vresorts.in
Call: +91-8130 777 222
Website: www.vresorts.in/resort/v-resorts-kullu

INDIAN BROMANCE

There’s something different about Indian men. I’m not talking about their intense gazes, which I expected; something else caught my attention. It took me a while to figure it out. Once I’d got past their unabashed curiosity, social confidence and friendly hospitality, I realised Indian men are super affectionate…towards each other.

Young and old alike hold hands like high school sweethearts. They fondly pat each other’s rotund bellies. They wrap arms around each other’s shoulders as they go for a gentle chinwag ‘n’ stroll. They straddle motorcycles together – passengers unfazed about holding their mates by the hips or wrapping their arms around the driver’s waist in a big bear hug. They shake hands and don’t let go until the conversation’s over. It’s delightful – so intimate and loving, yet completely casual, too.

I suddenly felt saddened that this display of brotherly love was completely foreign to me. If men behaved like this back home in Oz, they’d generally be paid out for being “gay”; not that being gay’s a bad thing, it just shouldn’t be the only reason men feel comfortable showing affection towards each other. In Western cultures, a 3-second hug, jovial slap on the back or fist pump are generally the limit between mates – a brisk handshake will suffice between strangers or male colleagues. It often takes copious amounts of alcohol for Aussie blokes start displaying a bit of man-love. Even then they seem to get this wild urge to play-tackle each other, as though they need to make their hugs seem manlier. It takes courage to be a “touchy-feely” guy in many countries – but not in India.

That’s one of the reasons I love this country so much. The most intimate parts of people’s lives and emotions are on display 24/7 – not tucked behind closed doors or in a deep part of their brain shrouded in embarrassment or fear. They value connection between brothers – expressions of friendly fondness and familial-like love. It’s welcoming. It makes one feel as though they belong and are a valued member of the community.

Now, if only men and women could show they same level of affection in India. While hugs between female and male friends aren’t completely taboo in more modern, populated areas, Ben and I certainly felt the need to limit our usual public displays of affection (don’t stress, I’m only talking about the legal kind!). While a man falling asleep nestled in his mate’s neck would go unnoticed in India, a couple doing the same thing could cause discomfort to onlookers. It’s a funny thing. Perhaps Australians and Indians can teach each other something about showing the love.

DELHI FOR DAYS

Sometimes, things don’t go to plan for a reason. Life stops you in your tracks and forces you to take a break. That’s exactly what happened to Ben and me during our time in Delhi. We had grand plans to plough through our next bunch of visa applications in India’s administrative capital. Unfortunately, we were a little too idealistic for our own good.

While Pakistan visas were surprisingly easy to get hold of, our China visas were declined due to our unique mode of travel (a private, overland vehicle). Ben brought all of his loveable charms to the yard and I argued with logic, but the Chinese embassy wasn’t budging on their decision. We later discovered very few foreigners had their visas approved in Delhi due to tensions between India and China. If only we’d known that sooner!

While Ben and I played the pointless waiting game, five days eventually turned into two weeks. Before we knew it, Delhi was starting to feel like home. For the first time in months, we actually had time to really get under the skin of a place and develop something resembling a routine. We weren’t just racing through the typical tourist agenda – it was bliss.

Here are some of my most memorable moments from Delhi – the must-do’s, the accidental finds, and the heart-warming local interactions.

During our stay in Delhi, Ben and I were based at the Smyle Inn hostel. Located in the Main Bazaar, this backpackers’ sanctuary is nestled right amongst the action. Street theatre abounds, especially later in the day, when roaming cows, veteran food vendors, henna artists, haggard beggars, sharp-eyed hawkers, and gangly rickshaw drivers all fight for a little good fortune.

But, while they look out for themselves, the locals also take care of each other…two-legged, four-legged and wonky-legged friends alike. I ran into one street dog, which was particularly “pampered”, as she’d just given birth to a pup. Shopkeepers were keeping her well fed, so she could enjoy being a new mum and put aside her usual street dog duties (i.e. hunting for food in mounds of garbage).

Having experienced several bouts of food poisoning since being in India, the street food wasn’t as enticing as it used to be. Though, I must admit, there was one devilish concoction which caught my attention – thickly battered, deep-fried, cheese-loaded sandwiches. OMG! Only in India (and probably America).

Before I was tempted to eat something that’d surely make me sick (in more ways than one), Harish from the Smyle Inn let me in on a local foodie secret – Haldiram’s. This modern, Indian franchise dished out a feast of traditional, tasty and super cheap eats. The place looked more hygienic than McDonald’s and the food certainly had more soul. It’s a great option for tourists wanting a taste of local flavours without fearing the repercussions.

At the end of the day, Ben and I favoured rooftop restaurants and backstreet cafes. Our top picks were the Brown Bread Bakery, which served healthy and organic meals, and The Exotic Roof Top Restaurant, which offered prime views of the local street life.

Weirdly enough, navigating the mayhem of the Main Bazaar became a daily “escape” for me. I’ve always felt most at ease amongst the hustle and bustle, where I can blend into the background, observe things in secret and fuel my imagination.

This particular bazaar was like catnip for women. It was jam-packed with fashion stands selling everything from traditional clothing and casual travel-wear to handmade bags, ornate jewellery and funky shoes. While I succumbed to lane of cheap hippy gear like every other tie-dye wearing tourist (for comfort reasons of course), there’s something about buying mass produced chintz that leaves me feeling a little…blurgh. So, when I stumbled across a beautiful boutique in a blink-n-miss-it back alley, I got rather excited. Bubbles Fashion was like nothing I’d seen throughout India’s tourist hubs – the pieces were original, well made and understated. It was time to refresh my weary travel wardrobe!

There’s no better way to explore the world’s big cities than by bicycle. Every major destination seems to have a tour group (or ten) and Delhi was no different. Ben and I teamed up with DelhiByCycle for an early morning ride around the old town. The monsoonal heavens opened up, making the experience even more playful and thrilling. Navigating through the dingiest backstreets of India’s capital was truly wild in the wet weather. At every moment, we were madly dodging something – men with giant slabs of meat on their backs; rogue tuk-tuk drivers; territorial street dogs; wafts of urine intertwined with warm, fresh rain; hanging electrical wires and locals on a mission.

Thanks to our savvy tour guide, Ben and I explored places we never knew existed. At one point, we hoped off our bikes and wandered through a residential complex which revealed a “real” side to Delhi life we hadn’t yet encountered – dozens of people sleeping on cement floors, surrounded by piles of rubbish. While it was hard to witness, the residents seemed content. During our tour, Ben and I were also taken to local hot spots for chai tea and a traditional Indian breakfast. Both went down a treat in the soggy weather – they were little moments of luxury amidst the rough ‘n’ raw sites.

Of course, we couldn’t stay in Delhi for two weeks and miss its star attractions. At the top of most tourist’s lists are: The Red Fort, India Gate, the Lotus Temple, and Qutab Minar – the largest brick minaret in the world. All of these man-made structures were charming and majestic in their own way; but, it was hard to appreciate their intricate beauty at times, as we were regularly pulled aside by Indian tourists wanting a happy snap with foreigners. So it seemed, we’d become the main attraction!

Delhi is also home to a number of impressive records, which are worth witnessing firsthand. Khari Baoli, Asia’s biggest spice market, is a boisterous affair, with over 30,000 vocal vendors selling every spice under the sun. I loved losing myself to the bustling, aromatic backstreets and getting thrown into the action. Wandering the main thoroughfare was an equally intriguing experience, but much grittier (if you’re new to India, you’ll find it a little confronting). But, before too long, Ben and I found ourselves in Delhi’s bridal wear zone. Spice shops had turned into glamourous boutiques selling ornate couture and blindingly colourful bling. Yet again, I was stuck by the wild contrasts living side-by-side in India. 

To enjoy a bit of Western “normality”, Ben and I enjoyed a date night in Connaught Place. A cosmopolitan hot spot for Indian execs, loved up couples and tourists, it’s a slice of contemporary heaven for those seeking a unique dining experience or simply a night at the movies. It’s also home to India’s biggest national flag (63m high), surrounded by well-manicured gardens and Indian teens taking selfies.

After two weeks, the shock of Delhi had worn off and I’d fallen in love with this crazy city. While it’s packed with over 11 million people, there’s a distinct intimacy about the place which shouts louder than the constant sea of honking vehicles and bellowing touts. The micro-communities were fascinating and their daily routines seemed completely entrenched. In two weeks, the madness of the Main Bazaar started to make sense. I’d discovered how things worked and learnt how to swim with the tidal wave. But, just when I was starting to feel like a local, it was time to leave.

THE GLAMOUR OF THE INDIAN WOMAN

There’s something about Indian women. It doesn’t matter which caste or region they come from, they always seem to ooze glamour. As they scurry through the hectic streets of India, their colourful chiffon saris, striking makeup and sparkling accessories are in stark contrast to the grime around them. Indian women are beacons of beauty, the stuff of fantasy, princesses of the pavement. Over the past eight weeks I’ve walked amongst them, dressed in tired, genderless travel clothes, suddenly feeling like I ought to make more of an effort. From the elderly woman labouring in the tea fields to the busy mum with a pack of kids in tow, they all looked like goddesses. Recently, I decided it was time for me to inject a bit of elegance back into my life. So, I visited a wonderful boutique called Bandhej and spent the afternoon dabbling in the world of traditional Indian fashion. Here’s what I wore and discovered…

#1. SARI

The sari is widely regarded as a symbol of grace and a distinct part of Indian, Pakistani, Nepalese, Bangladeshi and Sri Lankan culture. It’s a strip of unstitched cloth, ranging from four to nine meters in length, which is draped over the body in various styles – over 80 in fact! The most common style is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist, with one end then arranged over the shoulder baring the midriff. In ancient Indian tradition, the navel of the Supreme Being was considered to be the source of life and creativity, hence why the midriff is left bare. The sari is usually worn over a petticoat and fitted, backless blouse (which is more like a crop top really!).

Saris can be highly ornate, satisfying India’s ingrained love for ornamentation. They often incorporate embellishments such as mirrors, embroidery with coloured silk thread, precious stones and hand-woven borders in gold or silver. Wedding saris are particularly lavish, with red silk being the traditional fabric of choice for brides.

Due to the harsh extremes in temperature across the Indian Subcontinent, the sari fills a practical role as well as a decorative one. It’s not only warming in winter and cooling in summer, but its loose-fitting tailoring is preferred by women who must be free to move as their duties require. The sari has even been used as a uniform for air hostesses, female politicians and women in the armed forces!

In the history of Indian clothing, the sari can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilisation which flourished during 2800–1800 BC. It’s incredible to think this time-honoured attire still holds such pride of place in the modern Indian woman’s wardrobe. The survival of the sari reflects India’s custom-rich culture – its deep love and respect for its heritage.

#2. GHAGRA CHOLI

As soon as I stepped into a Ghagra Choli, I wanted twist and twirl about. So, it came as little surprise to me that it’s the traditional clothing worn by Punjabis during folk dances. It’s distinguished by a long, pleated skirt which usually has a thick, embroiled border along the hemline. As with the sari, a fitted blouse (known as a choli) is the accompanying top of choice. With its short sleeves, low neck and body-baring cuts, the choli is quite a sexy staple for one of the world’s more conservative countries. Having said that, the Ghagra Choli is covered by a dupatta, a multi-purpose scarf which has long been a symbol of modesty in Asian dress. Indian women are careful to ensure their dupatta and choli perfectly offset the rest of their attire, generally pairing colours from opposite ends of the colour wheel.

#3. SALWAR KAMEEZ

In modern times, the salwar kameez has become the most popular dress for females. It consists of loose trousers (the salwar) which narrow at the ankles, topped by a tunic top (the kameez). Women tend to complete this outfit with a veil to cover their head and shoulders. The salwar kameez is worn by almost every teenage girl in lieu of western clothes. Despite its more casual appearance, it’s also commonly worn by actresses in Bollywood movies. I must say, I’ve bought a salwar kameez for myself and it’s my new favourite travel attire…so comfortable. It’s like living in uber stylish pyjamas!

REVIEW: GRAND HYATT (MUMBAI)

 

How would you describe it? Seamless, practical, cultured, visionary, and well-resourced.

Who’d love it? International business folk, from singles to conferences groups, would feel right at home. The Grand Hyatt is a hop, skip and jump away from the airport and merely 5 minutes away from Mumbai’s business hub (the Bandra Kurla Complex). Home to several meeting rooms, state-of-the-art technology, a mammoth ballroom, high-quality catering and an events team, this hotel would be a perfect place to host a conference.

How were the rooms? Elegant and understated. The Grand Hyatt knows how to make its rooms luxurious without being ostentatious, so guests feel completely at home. While the design is more functional than other Grand Hyatt’s, catering for a practical business market, they are still cosy and inviting.

How was the service?

Practically unparalleled in its professionalism. But, that’s not to say the staff weren’t warm and friendly. In fact, they were absolutely delightful, having a polite yet childlike enthusiasm towards guests. They seemed genuinely interested in my travels, eagerly asking questions but wary of being too intrusive. The staff (especially the chefs) also loved explaining their role at the Hyatt; it was wonderful to see their passion.

While service at the Grand Hyatt seemed “no fuss” on the surface, the staff were undoubtedly working hard in the background to keep guests happy. Their attention to detail was highly discrete, so Ben and I barely noticed when tasks had been performed to make our stay as comfortable as possible. While taking a tour of the hotel complex, we passed a store which happened to stock Vegemite. I let out a squeal of delight at the time, in true “Aussie abroad” fashion. During check out, Ben and I were treated to a beautiful gift box containing the best road trip goodies imaginable, including: muffins, baguettes, gourmet chocolates, doughnuts and…a jar of Vegemite. We’ll never forget the kind, personalised gesture.

What were the highlights?

It’s hard to go past the food. Standing at the Grand Hyatt’s restaurant nexus, Ben and I couldn’t decide which fine dining option to indulge in…so we made our way through them all, one bite at a time. We started our food tour at the hotel’s international restaurant, Fifty Five East. Our eyes were met by the ultimate world-class buffet, with interactive breakout kitchens serving Thai, Japanese, Lebanese, Western and Indian fare. The dessert bar was deliciously cruel, serving more tantalising sweets than my body could handle (but I wanted to try them all). All I can say, is thank goodness for the Grand Hyatt gym. Ben and I decided right then that we’d spend our time between eating and exercising!

Our next meal was at the highly acclaimed China House Restaurant & Lounge. Renowned for its impossibly tender peking duck, fresh dumplings and extensive tea menu, Ben and I submitted our bodies to yet another gastronomic adventure. In between tastings, we wandered around the restaurant’s dimly lit alcoves, jam-packed pantries and open kitchens. The whole experience transported us to the sensual and alluring backstreets of exotic China.

By the next day, Ben and I were craving simple flavours, so an Italian affair at Celini was in order. We were told the famous, thin-crust pizzas were a must and they certainly didn’t disappoint. It was clear the Grand Hyatt had managed to attract the talents of incredible chefs from around the world. I’d challenge Naples to serve up better pizza than Celini!

Finally, we couldn’t stay at the Grand Hyatt without a meal at its much-loved Indian restaurant, Soma. According to the rumours, Bollywood stars travelled from far and wide to feast on Soma’s Dal Makhani. I must admit, when I placed the first spoonful in my mouth, I lost myself for a moment. The rich, buttery flavour and smooth, velvety texture were completely captivating. Then came the tandoor-grilled lamb. In Ben’s words, it was like the meat had never really been joined to a bone. It was melt-in-your-mouth magic. If you’re a gastronome like me, put the Grand Hyatt (Mumbai) on your bucket list. It’s worth staying here just for the food.

What’s different about the place?

While exploring the vast halls and spaces within the Grand Hyatt, I was delighted to see its walls were lathered in local art. From contemporary pieces to traditional designs, the unique celebration of Indian culture and creativity gave the hotel soul.

Beyond its grand art gallery, the Hyatt also offers more facilities than a mini-city. Beyond the usual suspects (gym, spa, business centre etc.), the hotel hosts serviced apartments and boasts its own international shopping plaza, complete with high-end fashion boutiques, jewellery stores, cafes and beyond. Set on 12 acres of perfectly manicured land and offering a perfect mix of leisure and relaxation, the Grand Hyatt isn’t just a hotel, it’s a lifestyle destination.

How would you rate the overall experience? 9 out of 10 peking ducks.

Resort Details:
Off Western Express Highway, Santacruz (East), Mumbai, India
Tel:+91 22 6676 1234
www.mumbai.grand.hyatt.com

THE MANY FACES OF MUMBAI

Mumbai (a.k.a. Bombay) is a city of wild and wonderful extremes. Sustaining over 20 million residents, India’s most populous city is home to dreamers, hard-labourers, actors, gangsters, artists, servants, fisher folk, millionaires and everything in between. It’s the glittering epicentre of Bollywood, the world’s most prolific film industry, and it proudly possesses some of the world’s most expensive real estate. Yet, Mumbai is also renowned for its mammoth slums and ultra-gritty markets. So it seems, this eclectic city captures all of the beauty and ugliness of the human condition. But, that’s exactly what makes it so captivating. Here are some of the things I love most about Mumbai – the good, the great and the ugly.

BOLLYWOOD

Churning out over 900 films a year, Bollywood is the global goliath of the movie world. When visiting Mumbai, the heart of India’s film industry, it’s sacrilegious not to see a Bollywood flick. I convinced Ben to see ABCD2, which was like Step Up on steroids. Despite having zero understanding of Hindi, I figured dance was an international language we’d be able to make sense of. Indeed, I was instantly entranced by Bollywood’s winning escapist formula, as all-singing, all-dancing lovers fought to conquer the forces keeping them apart.

During our night at the movies, Ben and I discovered Indian cinemas played the national anthem before each screening – how patriotic! We also heard Bollywood studios often scouted Western extras to star in their films and add a whiff of international flair. Unfortunately, we missed out on our ten minutes of fame. Bollywood stars, on the other hand, seemed to have God-like status throughout Mumbai and all of India.

FASHION

Just like in Hollywood, where an intense celebrity culture is coupled with fashion fanatics, Mumbai is both the movie star and fashion capital of India. From the mountains of sparkly accessories at the Bandra street markets to the couture boutiques which line the streets of Juhu, it’s a bit overwhelming. But, once you get the hang of haggling and sorting the chintz from the special stuff, shopping becomes an entertaining tourist experience. I chose to escape the crowds and play dress ups at Bandhej in the Grand Hyatt Plaza. While in India, I couldn’t miss out on the chance to wear some traditional clothing, which I’d never be able to get on without the help of a local! Before long, I was happily drowning in a rainbow of colour. Indian women sure know how to stand out. No matter which region or caste they’re from, they all seem to put serious effort into their style, from the ornate jewellery and striking make-up they wear, to the perfectly layered clothing and coordinated shoes adorning their bodies. Indian women are the ultimate “glamourzons” – especially in Mumbai.

MARKETS

Before reaching Mumbai, I had visions of people being packed into the place like sardines. Ben and I feared it would be a nightmare to navigate, especially considering we were driving our own car. While India’s biggest city certainly has an element of overcrowded madness, there’s a fast-paced rhythm to the place which seems to keep things moving like a perfectly choreographed dance. The locals know the steps and it doesn’t take long for tourists to get the swing of things.

Nowhere is Mumbai’s organised chaos more apparent than at the markets. While Chow Bazaar (a.k.a. the Thieves Market) is a popular shopping haunt, especially amongst those seeking antiques and furniture, my top pick is the Crawford Market. It’s the ultimate tourist theatre, with locals and vendors haggling their way towards high-action melodrama while stray animals form sneaky side plots. It’s fascinating viewing, but you should also become part of the production!

If peace and quiet are what you seek, you’ll need to wander past the pet arena through to the meat market. Be warned – it’s strictly for the brave (hence the less hectic vibe). The lack of hygiene is wildly shocking and grabs you by the guts – I’d never seen anything like it before. But, while the viewing is tough, the workers are super friendly. Be sure to strike up a conversation with them, as their life stories are fascinating. Their kids play cricket around the corner. It’s worth wading through the mountains of rotting garbage to join them for a match – Mumbai-style.

SLUMS

Shantytowns and slums are very much a part of Mumbai city life, with over 60% of the population calling them home. To really get under the skin of India’s biggest city, it’s important to witness this part of the local culture. Ben and I ventured to Dharavi, Asia’s biggest and Mumbia’s most renowned slum. Thanks to Hollywood’s interpretation of street life in Slumdog Millionaire, Dharavi turned out to be a lot friendlier and grittier than I expected. While I’m sure there are some dodgy dealings in this part of town, I felt completely safe exploring the dusty alleyways and busy thoroughfares. The locals turned into shy gigglepots whenever we asked to take their photos – they were delightful and never asked for money in return. Their houses were cleverly built from a resourceful mix of materials, including corrugated iron, garbage and concrete. Surprisingly, most were kitted out with kitchens and electricity.

On the flip side, where Hollywood tends to make even the foulest conditions look picturesque, Dharavi was pretty darn dingy. It was like a city, within a city – a far cry from the lavish lanes of Mumbai’s affluent peninsular situated merely a hop, skip and jump away. The sewer-lined streets were shrouded in gut-wrenching aromas, from rotting garbage to human excrement. The waterways were a bubbling grey-green colour I’d never seen before. It was a complete assault to the senses. Yet, many families (including young adults with white collar jobs), had happily lived here for generations. While Dharavi seems shambled at first glance, there’s obviously a strong sense of community and habitual way of life which offers a compelling living environment.

PLUSH PROPERTIES

In a country where 30% of people live below the poverty line, Mumbai is a beacon of unabashed opulence. Amongst the shantytowns and slums are pockets of elegance filled with fantastical architecture. The affluent southern tip of Mumbai’s peninsular is home to the world’s most expensive private property – Antilia. Valued at $1 billion USD, it’s maintained by a staff of 600 and enjoyed by not a single soul. Owned by India’s wealthiest man, business magnate Mukesh Ambani, it’s rumoured his wife didn’t agree with the property’s feng shui and refused to reside within its stately walls. Built on a block which was formerly occupied by an orphanage, many of the locals see Antilia as a big middle finger. Whether or not the gossip is true or justified, this state-of-the-art skyscaper is still worth a peak.

The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel is another example of Mumbai’s lavish side, presenting a fairytale blend of Islamic and Renaissance architectural styles. This sumptuous hotel is a popular respite destination amongst the international elite. If you can’t afford to live like royalty for a night or experience one of the Taj’s fine-dining restaurants, it’s still worth taking a look inside and pretending like you own the place. Alternatively, you can enjoy a gentle stroll (or horse-drawn carriage ride) around its perfect perimeter. The public square, which sits next to the hotel and hugs the Mumbai Harbour, has become a favourite gathering spot amongst locals and tourists alike. It’s also home to the Gateway of India, a bold basalt arch of colonial triumph, which further enhances the grandeur of this palatial precinct.

WORLD-CLASS DINING

Mumbai offers a gastronomical adventure like nowhere else in India. Due to the well-moneyed and cosmopolitan crowds which flock to this high-energy city, the cuisine on offer is truly mind-blowing. My two favourite food experiences were at Social Offline and the Grand Hyatt Hotel. The latter took my stomach on a glorious round-the-world trip from Italy, China, Japan and Thailand all the way back to India. It’s worth sleeping over for a few nights, just so you can sample your way through the Grand Hyatt’s many restaurants and some of the best food Mumbai has to offer. From the thin-crust pizzas which dissipate in your mouth to the impossibly tender peking duck which delights your soul, it’s little wonder this hotel attracts movers and shakers from Mumbai and beyond.

Ben and I stumbled across Social Offline while we were exploring the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. Too cheap to splurge on a five-star lunch, we looked to one of the surrounding restaurants for a feed. What we discovered at the highly affordable Social Offline knocked our socks off. The fusion of British and Indian recipes delivered an unexpected thrill to our tastebuds, from the lightly spiced and perfectly battered fish ‘n’ chips Ben devoured to the melt-in-the-mouth pastry which cuddled my curried vegetable pie. If only we’d had room to try the Chocolate Blood Bath with brownie, truffle and fudge. So it seemed, when world-class international and Indian chefs came together, the menus were magic.

CONCLUSION

If you thought Mumbai was merely a grimy, over-crowded city, think again. Its many facets will surprise and delight you, whisking you between worlds of divine grandeur and hypnotically raw street life. Mumbai, with all of it’s complex and contrasting layers, offers a well-rounded glimpse into Indian culture, aspirations, challenges and ideals. It’s unquestionably a must-visit if you plan to explore India.

REVIEW: THE GRAND HYATT, GOA (BAMBOLIM)

How would you describe it? Grandiose, ambitious, exquisite, welcoming, and family-friendly.

Who’d love it? Surprisingly, families! The Grand Hyatt is well equipped to cater for little ones. This state-of-the-art hotel would also make a great venue for weddings and business conferences.

How were the rooms?

Let’s just start by saying it was bigger than our entire townhouse back home in Oz. From the moment we entered the atrium, we couldn’t contain our dumfounded delight. We were like school children giggling at an inside joke – the lavishness of our room was brilliantly absurd. How did we get so lucky?! The entrance, decorated with fresh flowers, opened up to a vast, open-plan living room and dining area. A coffee machine, generous bowl of ripe fruit and jars of naughty treats were ready to welcome us. Before Ben and I tucked in, we needed to explore the all-important bedroom.

It was the stuff of dreams. The king-sized bed was so deliciously soft it felt as though I was being hugged to sleep. Behind the ultra-comfy bedroom was a bathroom fit for a queen. It contained so many specialised areas, we kept getting lost! And, just to add a little extra ostentatiousness, there was a remote controlled wall offering a choice between privacy and exhibitionism. As I started to open the bedroom curtains, I turned to Ben and said, “How can this possibly get any better?”. My question was answered before it ended. So it seemed, our room was bordered by a runway-length balcony with a state-of-the-art Jacuzzi and ocean views. It was time to jump up and down with joy.

How was the service?

I love staying at a hotel when I can tell the entire staff community shares a genuine and united passion for its mission and values. At the Grand Hyatt, it’s obvious everyone from the GM to the gardener is driven by the desire to create a flawless yet homely space for guests. There was a refreshing sincerity to their smiles and support.

I also valued the personalised service delivered at the Grand Hyatt. The staff were practically psychic and eager to go the extra mile. After a long day of filming, photographing and touring the hotel grounds, Ben and I came back to our room to discover it’d been showered in rose petals. A little romance and relaxation were exactly what we needed. It’s easy to get caught up in the work side of things when you’re a travel writer and forget to stop and enjoy the moment. Not at the Grand Hyatt! 

How was the food? 

The Grand Hyatt is a place where one can indulge in dessert during breakfast, lunch and dinner. The lavish breakfast spread was temptation of the ultimate kind, offering everything from freshly made waffles with several flavours of ice-cream to the finest pastries and masterfully decorated cakes. Of course, the usual local and international suspects were on offer, too, plus a deli section that was to die for (cream cheese with smoked salmon on a fresh bagel anyone?). Lunch is next level, and will leave you feeling like Marie Antoinette. Dinner presents a world of options but Ben and I stuck with the hotel’s Indian restaurant, Chulha. We were treated to a special cooking class with the chefs before we tucked into the tastiest Indian meal either of us had ever cooked. At the Grand Hyatt, every morsel is obviously made with love, expertise, playfulness and careful consideration.

What were the highlights?

From the moment we drove our Landy through the stately entrance gates, Ben and I were in awe of the Grand Hyatt’s unique aesthetic. The architecture was a beautiful mix of Hindu, Portuguese and contemporary influences. Every structure was paradoxically grand and down-to-earth. The use of natural fibres, tones, artworks and décor was very clever, making us feel both pampered and right at home.

The spa complex was pretty memorable, too. As we wandered past the ultramodern massage rooms, gymnasium, indoor pool, relaxation room, salons, steam rooms and private female/male spas – all blindingly white – we felt like we were in a sci-fi flick. Ben and I were “the lucky ones” who got to live on the utopia-themed spaceship. It was blissfully eerie.

What’s different about the place? 

At first glance, the Grand Hyatt stood out due to its sheer size. Spread across 28 acres of prime beachfront land, the hotel was often explored by buggy rather than by foot. The common areas were so extensive, there were staff dedicated to offering directions (we took advantage of this on many occasions!). The gardens, despite their vastness, were perfectly manicured. There was also a beautifully weathered 16^th Century chapel on the grounds, which begged to be photographed.

Another interesting point-of-difference was the Grand Hyatt’s menu of guest activities, which seemed to be season specific. During the monsoon, they were designed to keep holiday-goers entertained indoors. Everything from Indian cooking classes and fondue evenings to beer ‘n’ hop tastings and detox days were on offer. I could’ve happily lived at the Grand Hyatt for many months! During my stay, I well-and-truly became a Grand Hyatt girl – it’s an incredible brand which consistently delivers my favourite hotel experiences around the world.

How would you rate the overall experience? 9.7 out of 10 grand entrances.

Resort Details:
Goa University, Bambolim, Goa 403206
Ph: 0832 301 1234
www.goa.grand.hyatt.com/en/hotel/home.html

BEWITCHED BY HAMPI

Before arriving in India, Hampi had been on my bucket list for a while…but, I couldn’t tell you why. For some unknown reason, it was one of the few places I could name in India. Perhaps I’d heard wonderful whispers about Hampi without really taking them in. While I knew I wanted to visit this mysterious place, I didn’t have a clue what made it special. So, as Ben and I approached this tourist Mecca, I tucked into some research. Here are a few insights which caught my attention:

• Hampi, which means “champion”, is located within the infamous ruins of Vijayanagara, the former capital of the Vijayanagara Empire.
• The ruins are listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
• Hampi formed one of the core areas of the Vijayanagara Empire from 1343 to 1565. It was chosen because of its strategic location, bounded by the torrential Tungabhadra River on one side and surrounded by defensible hills on its other three sides.
• Hampi continues to be a significant historical, architectural and religious site. It’s home to many notable Hindu temples, some of which are still active places of worship.
• The extant monuments of Vijayanagara (or Hampi) can be divided into Religious, Civil and Military buildings.
• While most of the monuments in Hampi are from the Vijayanagara period, a small proportion have been assigned to pre-Vijayanagara times. The first historical settlements in Hampi date back to 1CE!

While these insights were certainly fascinating, it wasn’t until Ben and I arrived in Hampi that we understood why it was a major pit stop on the traveller circuit. We were spellbound from the moment we laid eyes on the mars-like landscape. It was so different to anything we’d seen before – a sea of giant boulders perched precariously over miles of undulated terrain, their rusty hues offset by zesty green palm groves, banana plantations and paddy fields. A perfect azure sky, peppered with fluffy white Simpson’s clouds, enhanced the epic atmosphere. The forlorn ruins seemed scattered across Hampi’s dramatic scenery, their former beauty still glimmering through the harsh destruction of time.

Before long, Ben and I had lost ourselves to the ancient relics. With only a half day available to explore Hampi, we stuck to the area’s main attractions, including the Vittala Temple and its iconic stone chariot, market corridors and musical pillars. Wandering through the mammoth temple entrance, we were transported to a bygone era. It’s ornate walls oozed secrets from the past – the architecture was mesmerising.

As Ben and I wrapped up our time in Hampi and started our journey to Goa, we watched the legendary landscape fly past our car windows in distracted silence. It was amazing to see how millions of years of volcanic activity and erosion could result in a beautifully bewitching backdrop. If only we’d had time to linger a little longer.

5 WAYS TO CHILL OUT IN GOA DURING THE MONSOON

When you imagine a holiday in Goa, sun-kissed beaches, wild parties, and hordes of hippies probably come to mind. What if I was to tell you this tourist hot spot becomes particularly blissful throughout the Monsoon Season?

Few international tourists realise Goa is a playground 365 days of the year. The idea of visiting during its wettest months might seem strange; but, for travellers who dream of total relaxation, a beautiful backdrop and mellow holiday vibe, it’s the perfect time to chill out in this aspirational destination. Here are some of my favourite ways to unwind and soak up the magic of Goa during the Monsoon.

#1 Explore the Tropical Spice Plantation

A trip to India isn’t complete without a visit to a spice plantation. When Goa takes on a slower pace, it’s the perfect time to head towards the lush hills and discover spices in their most natural state. Ben and I visited the Tropical Spice Plantation in Keri (Ponda). Upon arrival, we were welcomed with traditional offerings of flower garlands, kumkum (red, round marks impressed on our foreheads) and herbal teas. Our guided tour immersed us in nature, revitalised our senses and filled our brains with new knowledge about spices. During the gentle stroll, we were able to mingle with buffalos, elephants, dogs, cats, monkeys, ducks and rare species of birds. They were all rather jealous of our buffet lunch, which included a mountain of traditional and nutritious foods served in banana leaves. After our walking tour and spice-infused feast, the only thing left to do was visit the gift shop!

#2 Get Your Chef’s Hat On at a Goan Cooking Class

For me, the act of preparing delicious food is wonderfully therapeutic. Once I’d witnessed spices in their purest form, I was eager to learn how to cook with them! Goa is home to many divine dishes, which are unique to the area. Goan Fish Curry is just the beginning, but it’s hard to go past. Ben and I learnt how to make this signature recipe, along with Tandoori Chicken, at the Grand Hyatt. The hotel’s Indian restaurant, Chulha, offers abridged cooking classes for guests, and there are many other courses on offer throughout Goa. No matter which operator you choose, you’re guaranteed to feel inspired by the ingenious use of spices in Indian cuisine. Ben and I realised we had many of the vital ingredients in our kitchen back home. The only problem was we had no idea how to turn them into something special. Well, now we do! And, we can’t wait to cook up an Indian feast once we get back to Australia.

#3 Sign Up for a Detox & Yoga Retreat

In this day and age, most of us are bombarded with toxins on a regular basis, from the air pollution we breathe to the processed foods we eat. Goa is home to a number of eco-conscious resorts, which offer detox retreats and aim to give your body a break and health boost. I opted for a 5-day Juice Cleanse and Yoga Program with The Beach House and will never forget the experience. My days were filled with remedial massages, nutrient-rich beverages, educational health talks, colonics, walks on the beach, one-on-one yoga classes, meditation and “me time”. It was bliss. And, I came out the other side having reduced my bio-age by 3 years, improved my ph level from 6 (acidic) to 8 (alkaline) and dropped 2kg. I’m keen to come back and do it all again next year!

#4 Let Your Hair Down on a Floating Casino

For a more upbeat way to unwind, enjoy one of Goa’s signature holiday experiences – the floating casinos. Ben and I ventured out to the Deltin Royale, India’s most grandiose party boat for gamblers. We kicked our night off with an epic feast on the middle floor, where buffet treats, alcoholic beverages, cabaret dancers and party beats set the indulgent tone for the evening. It wasn’t long before the gaming zones captured our curiosity. While we’re not big gamblers, it was fascinating watching the different dynamics at play. The air of exhilaration was infectious, and we were absorbed in the action for hours. By the time we caught a tender back to the peaceful mainland and crawled into bed, we were completely spent.

#5 Live in the Lap of Luxury 

Few places are more relaxing than luxury resorts and hotels – they’re slices of holiday heaven where your every whim gets catered for. Goa’s stateliest establishment, the Grand Hyatt, is pure comfort and escapism of the finest kind. Ben and I had the pleasure of staying in one of the ocean-view suites, which formed a royal base for our many decedent escapades. The hotel runs daily activities to keep guests entertained during the Monsoon, from fondue evenings and Indian-inspired cocktail classes to yoga sessions and detox days. The spa complex was more like a state-of-the-art sanctuary, offering male and female spas, steam rooms, a gymnasium, relaxation room, indoor pools, beauty salon and enticing massage menu. Meal times were pamper sessions in their own right. Ben and I always savour opportunities to enjoy good food, made with love, expertise and careful consideration. At the Grand Hyatt, every experience seemed to involve those three ingredients. We felt truly taken care of – like the weight of stress and chaos had been taken off our shoulders.

Whatever your chill out style, Goa offers something to help you unwind and enjoy the enchanting charm of the Monsoon Season. From lavish resorts and fun-filled nights to health retreats, educational activities and time with nature, there’s a world of locally inspired adventure waiting to be enjoyed. While Goa is a prized holiday destination throughout winter, it’s particularly breathtaking during the Monsoon when it turns into a lush and peaceful playground. So, make sure you experience Goa’s unique diversity and sample this world-renowned travel destination during the different seasons – not just the sunny ones.

REVIEW: THE BEACH HOUSE RESORT

How would you describe it? Rejuvenating, comforting, supportive, healthy and happy.

Who’d love it? Anyone who needs some personal time to relax and improve their health (mental and physical). Many of the guests I met had experienced some kind of trauma. They came to The Beach House to feel good again. Others wanted to get their eating habits back on track and develop a healthier relationship with food.

How were the rooms? Exactly what the doctor (and patient) ordered. They’re newly renovated, so the decor is bright and fresh, helping to create a calming and revitalising atmosphere. The bathrooms were spacious. The bed was deliciously soft. I had a mountain of cuddly pillows to choose from. Seriously speedy Wi-Fi and Pay TV were also available. I couldn’t have asked for more.

How was the food? It’s hard to judge, as I was on a detox diet, haha! Healthy ingredients aren’t always the most palatable. But, I must admit, the fruit juices were absolute heaven, delivering a serious flavour punch. The vegetable broths reminded me how food tastes without chemicals and additives – probably a good thing!

What was the vibe like? Calm and content. It’s easy to achieve a sense of inner peace here. The staff were gentle in nature, offering sweet smiles when guests needed a boost. We were all mildly comatose due to our low-cal meals, daily yoga classes, meditation sessions by the beach, and blissful massages.

How was the service? Delightful. No request was too inconvenient. Help was always given swiftly and kindly. The staff were very compassionate. Hungry guests can be moody ones. The staff never let a snappy comment dint their positive demeanour. The only slight challenge was the sheer number of staff – there were so many doctors and personnel, communication between them (and the guests) wasn’t always 100% seamless. Having said that, it was wonderful to know every support resource I could possibly need was ready to help me through my detox.

What were the highlights? The experience as a whole – it was delivered with professionalism, careful consideration and attention to detail. Having signed up for the juice cleanse / detox retreat, I was supported with an incredible amount of resources and guided through my journey in the best, most holistic way possible. I felt as thought it wasn’t just about eliminating a few toxins and kilos of fat from my body. The process was committed to improving my physical, psychological and physiological health to support my total well-being. After staying at The Beach House, I knew I’d made many positive changes, from the inside out.

What’s different about the place? When you come to The Beach House, you stay at The Beach House. There’s no escaping this little hideaway, which is brilliant. It meant I could totally focus on what I was there to do, away from any stress and distractions. The team kept me busy for five days with daily one-on-one yoga classes, a variety of massages, educational talks about health, a library of reading material, walks on the beach, meditation in the ocean-front huts, regular colonics and the best Wi-Fi I’d accessed in India. I was never bored. The Beach House is also unique because it personalises programs to suit individual guests. Before arriving, I had to fill out a detailed questionnaire which had an impact on my meals, hypnotherapy sessions, nutrition talks and beyond. I really felt like my stay was made just for me and, for this reason, it made an immensely positive impact on my life.

How would you rate the overall experience? 8.5 out of 10 sun salutations.

Resort Details:
Sernabatim Beach Road, Colva, Salcette, Goa, India
Tel: 0832 669 7733
www.thebeachhousegoa.com